^. 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


A<^ 


1.0 


1.1 


11.25 


■^  Ui&   12.2 
^   lio    12.0 


Hiolograiiiic 

Sdfflices 
Corporation 


23  WBT  MAIN  STRIIT 

WUSTIII,N.Y.  14SM 

(71*)t72-4S03 


^^   ^\  ^rN 


^^  I 


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1 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Instituta  for  Historical  Microraproductions  /  Inttitut  Canadian  da  microraproductions  historiquas 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notaa/Notaa  tachniquos  at  bibliographiquaa 


The  InfttiUite  has  attempted  co  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


0 


D 


D 


D 
D 


n 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


r~T|    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagAe 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^  et/ou  pelliculte 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  giographiques  en  couleur 


□    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


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Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serrie  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intArieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutAes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  Atait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6tA  filmies. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplimentaires; 


L'Institut  a  microfilm*  ie  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  Ati  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
da  cat  exemplaire  qui  sent  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  imi  ge  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mAthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indlquAs  ci-dessous. 


Thi 
totl 


0 
0 
D 


v/ 


0 

O 
D 
D 
D 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagtes 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurAes  et/ou  peliiculies 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  dAcolories.  tachetAes  ou  piquAes 

Pages  detached/ 
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Transparence 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
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Only  edition  available/ 
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Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  erra'c«i 
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Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata.  une  pelure. 
etc.,  ont  Afi  filmtes  A  nouveau  de  fapon  it 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


The 
pos 
ofl 
flln 


Ori 

bet 

the 

sloi 

oth 

firs 

sioi 

ori 


The 
sha 
TIN 
whi 

Mai 
diff 
enti 
beg 
righ 
reqi 
met 


This  item  is  filmed  «t  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu*  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

7 

• 

12X                           16X                           20X                           a4X                           28X                           32X 

\ 

Th*  copy  filmad  h«r«  has  b««n  rcproducMl  thanks 
to  tha  ganaroaity  of: 

Douglaa  Library 
Quaan'a  Univarsity 


L'axamplaira  fiimi  fut  raproduit  grAca  A  la 
ginirosit*  da: 

Douglas  Library 
Quaan's  Univarsity 


Tha  imagas  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  baat  quality 
poaaibia  conaidaring  tha  condition  and  laglblllty 
of  tha  original  copy  and  In  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  apaciflcationa. 


Laa  Imagas  suivantaa  ont  AtA  raprodultas  avac  la 
plua  grand  soln.  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattatA  da  I'axamplaira  fiimA,  at  an 
conformity  ovac  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
fllmaga. 


Original  copias  In  printad  papar  covara  ara  fllmad 
baginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  anding  on 
tha  laat  paga  with  a  printad  or  llluatratad  Impras- 
slon,  or  tha  back  cova/  whan  appropriata.  All 
othar  original  copiaa  ara  fllmad  baginning  on  tha 
first  paga  whh  a  printad  or  llluatratad  impras- 
slon,  and  anding  on  tha  last  paga  with  a  printad 
or  llluatratad  Impraaalon. 


Laa  axamplalras  originaux  dont  la  couvartura  en 
paplar  ast  ImprimAa  aont  fllmte  an  commandant 
par  la  pramlar  plat  at  an  tarminant  soit  par  la 
darniira  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'Imprassion  ou  d'lllustratlon,  soit  par  la  sacond 
plat,  salon  la  cas.  Tous  las  autras  axamplalras 
originaux  sont  filmto  an  commandant  par  la 
pramlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'Imprassion  ou  d'iliustration  at  an  tarminant  par 
la  darnlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  talla 
amprainta. 


Tha  last  racordad  frama  on  aach  microficha 
shall  contain  tha  symbol  ^^-  (moaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  tha  symbol  y  (moaning  "END"), 
whichavar  applias. 


Un  das  symbolas  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
darnlAra  imaga  da  chaqua  microficha,  salon  la 
cas:  la  symbols  — ►  signifia  "A  SUIVRE".  la 
symbola  V  signifia  "FIN". 


Maps,  platas,  charts,  ate,  may  ba  fllmad  at 
diffarant  raduction  ratios.  Thosa  too  larga  to  ba 
antiraly  included  in  ona  axpoaura  ara  fllmad 
baginning  In  tha  uppar  laft  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  aa  many  framea  as 
required.  The  following  diagrama  illuatrate  the 
method: 


Lea  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvant  Atre 
filmi&ai  k  dee  ta jr.  da  reduction  diffirants. 
Loraque  ie  doci'>ment  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  .n  seul  clichA,  11  est  flimA  A  partir 
da  I'angle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  baa,  en  prenant  la  nombre 
d'images  n^cessaira.  Lea  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

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5 

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t)N10  TO  MONTREAL, 

f>  THE   FAK:  MMfD^ 
3UENAY, 

1  .  ..  ' 

exaiidritf  Ba^  Ports  and  oiher  piyi*it?^4| 
t  the  charming  scenery  of  the  Thi^ 
gowned  Riipid»  of  the  Str  tftwmi 

Toronto  ^**^°?^^  '^®  %ruenay  "^^^i 
embraces  mcnre  ol  the    ^ 
ie  than  ar 


ne  than  any  other  in  the  known  wdrid^      ;;^i 


I.  -* 


l»    ^ 


American  ticenic 

-  About  Jyly  4th.  the '  magnificent  new 
Twiii  Screw  Palace  Steanier  <«  COLUMBt^^^"^ 

will  commence  running  between  Kingston  and  Montte^O 
every  Monday.  Wednesday  and  Friday.  Ieavi|ig,|Cingst^^  f 
5.1S  A.  M,^m  addition  to  the  regular  boat  of  those  liajt -^ 
callmg  al  AlexAodrU  Bay  Porta  en  route.  ' 


j 


-  -<*.: 


i«^, 


AktXvMtLLOr, 

TRAePic  MANAckie; 


.7 


GstfUALMANI 


JOHN  «.«|Om.ty;QeB.  Paw.  Agt* 

MQJSTREAtt  Que. 


>'<        -Til,    -C. 


?!*''■ 


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^^. : 


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l^elaWare  &  |^uds0n  P    P 


1. 

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T^t^t 


EtW-l 


It  r,  i 


ie  banks  of  the  Hudson,  is  unsurpassed  in  the  world. 

i/     if-  V^'tv^ll  rw^^i*^  V^'j*"*'  T'".P*h»."  ft"*"'  Champlain."  at  Bluff  Point 
L^.&lJi-idSlM^SSl?'"^'  *"''/°'^  ^'«"*»'  S«.nac    Ukes.  etc.,  in  the 

.For  Tipkf  ts^  Maps,  Time  Tables,  and  all  Inforroation,~apply  to 


W,  H.  H6NRY»  ticket  Agent. 

Delawiire  &   Hudson  R.  R., 

ifei-  .^^  ^43  STr  James  Street,         -         Montreal. 

L,  33iir*Ead<>8e  fi  cts.  posuge  for  Illustrated  Guide  to 

' '    i  j,i  .  '-...■... 

-^  ^.  W.  tURDICK^  O.  P.  Ag^„  Albftny,  n;  T- 


TMCj9HO^TCST  MNC  BrrwCCN 

^^  moi^treal  ai)d  jr^u;  Toi-K. 

li^  S    *•*•«*•<'   *»y  *»»•  Qovernment  at  the  Mail  Route  Betweeq 

f'-^%';-'    "  -  -    the  two  Cltle$.    "  '    ,  '      ^    ' 


^J£L*%i..»«?^i&Mj«^ 


Jjit*^' 


New  York  Central 


'ft 


AND 


?r 


HUDSON  RIVER  R.  R., 

ROUTE  OF  THE 

Etwtpire  STKTe  Express. 

"  FAarmar  KBouLAm  tkaim  in  thb  worud." 

Magnificent  Warner  Drawing-room,  Sleeping  and  Dining  Cars 

through  without    change,   to   and    from    the    Thousand 

Islands  and  the  Famous  Resorts  of  the  River  St. 

Lawrence,  to  New   York,    Buffalo,   Boston, 

Saratoga   Springs,   the    Adirondacks, 

Lake    George,   Catskill 

Mountains    and 

all  po'lnts  east  and  west. 
Direct  Line  to   Niagara   Falls, 

Via  tbc  BMt  5i>ore  of  the  Historic  Hudson  River 
an<i  tl)e  Beautiful  Valley  of  tbe  f\obav^H.  ■ 
■  ■iiiiiiiiiiinmniiniiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiniiiiiinnniimiiiini 


vk 


For  Tickets,  Time  Tables,  or  Information  apply  to  R.  W. 
&  O.  Ticket  Agents,  or  any  Rail  or  Steamboat  Line  or  Address 


GEORGE  H.  DANIELS, 

Gen'l  Passenger  Aqent, 

GRAND  CENTRAL  STATION. 


F.  J.  WOLFE, 
General  Aqent, 

ALBANY,  N    Y. 


4 


♦'The  Rochester." 


A  complicated  lamp  is 
a  wicked  thing,  for  it  often 
provokes  to  profanity. 
There  are  three  pieces 
only  in  a  "Rochester,"  and 
a  wonderful  lamp  it  is 
indeed !  Absolutely  safe 
and  unbreakable,  its  light 
is  as  soft  as  twilight,  genial 
as  love  and  brilliant  as  the 


mornmg. 

Insist  upon  seeing  the  stamp  of  the 
genuine,—"  The  Rochester  ; "  and  ask 
for  the  written  guarantee.  If  the  lamp 
dealer  has  not  the  genuine  Rochester 
and  the  style  you  want,  send  to  us  for 
illustrated  pi.ce  list,  and  we  will  send 
you  (boxed)  any  lamp  safely  by  express. 

ROCHESTER   LAMP  CO., 

42  Park  Place,  New  York. 

**THB    JR.     ROOHESTBR'V 

18  A  NEW  AND  BEAUTIFUL  LAMP. 


IkAt^GHST  liAMP   STOHE   Ifl    THE    WOHLkD. 


XHB 


(( 


Phat  6oY'S 


9? 


18  Y^8,rs  on  the  St.  L^'^rence. 


THE    PEOPLE     MET    AND    THE 
THINGS    SEEN. 


f\  *  Qaidq  *  for  *  Tourists  ♦  /^pd  ♦  frav/^l^rs. 


ELEVENTH    EDITION.        COPYRIGHTED,   1892. 


ETTA  F-  BABBAGE,  Publisher. 


•w 


JR 


tt 


Ol^IiD. 


ROCHESTER,  N.  Y.: 

DEMOCRAT  AND  CHRONICLB  PRINT,  47  &  49  BAST  MAIN  STREET. 

189a. 


Lp 


633' 


vflf 


.Si 


^ 


1 


EDWARD  V.  BABBAGE. 


.« 


A,. 


Edward  F.  Babbage,  for  many  years  the  publishei  of 
this  little  book,  was  known  to  thousands  of  people  both 
of  the  New  and  the  Old  World.  He  was  better  and 
more  familiarly  known  as  the  "  Phat  Boy,"  a  sobriquet 
which  he  gained  from  his  ponderous  size.  He  added 
to  a  striking  personal  appearance,  a  genial  nature  that 
won  him  friends  wherever  he  went,  and  a  fund  of  stories 
that  made  for  him  a  reputation  as  a  ranconteur, 

Mr.  Babbage  was  born  at  Oak  Orchard  Creek, 
Orleans  county,  March  20,  1840,  and  removed  to 
Rochester  with  his  parents  when  a  child.  In  boyhood 
he  and  his  twin  brother,  Dr.  E.  F.  Babbage,  resembled 
each  other  so  strongly,  that  even  intimate  friends  of 
the  family  were  unable  to  distinguish  between  the  two, 
and  this  close  resemblance  continued  until  they  had 
nearly  reached  middle  age.  They  were  exactly  of  a 
height,  and  when  young  men,  dressed  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  sustain  the  delusion.  In  later  life,  however,  the 
subject  of  this  sketch  outstripped  his  brother  in  weight. 
At  the  time  of  his  death  he  weighed  335  pounds. 

When  the  Fifth  Engineer  Corps  came  home  from  the 
war,  several  of  the  survivors,  who  h&d  helped  to  lighten 
the  hours  of  camp  life  with  song  and  joke,  organized 
the  "Pontoon  Minstrels,"  and  Mr.  Babbage  was  sent 
out  as  advance  agent.  The  company  proved  a  success 
from  the  start,  and  for  three  years  the  minstrels  traveled 
back  and  forth  between  Maine  and  California.  Mr. 
Babbage  was  eminently  successful  as  an  advance  agent. 


.^ 


30 5 1318 


fe^- 


^4'^ 


and  the  many  experiences  with  which  he  met  in  the 
days  when  negro  minstrelry  was  at  the  height  of  its 
popularity,  furnished  an  unlimited  source  for  the  amus- 
ing stories  he  was  wont  to  tell  in  after  life.  The 
company  finally  dissolved,  its  members  retiring  to 
business  pursuits,  and  Mr.  Babbage's  services  were 
sought  for  by  the  managers  of  nearly  all  the  minstrel 
companies  then  on  the  road.  He  finally  engaged  with 
"  Happy  Cal  "  Wagner,  who  unwittingly  bestowed  upon 
him  the  nickname  which  he  ever  afterwards  carried. 
Wagner  sent  a  telegram  to  Pabbage,  who  was  then  at 
his  home  in  Rochester,  and  not  knowing  his  initials, 
addressed  it  through  an  error  of  orthography  "  Phat 
Boy  Babbage." 

Mr.  Babbage  remained  at  the  head  of  Wagner's  com- 
pany for  several  years,  and  afterwards  represented  in 
succession  La  Rue's  Minstrels,  McEvoy's  Hibercon 
and  Sam  Hague's  troupe.  It  was  formerly  his  boast 
that  there  was  not  a  town  of  5,000  inhabitants  in  the 
United  States  which  he  had  not  visited. 

After  retiring  from  the  theatrical  business,  Mr.  Bab- 
bage was  connected  with  the  St.  Lawrence  Hotel  in 
Montreal  for  a  short  time.  He  then  entered  the 
employ  of  the  Grand  Trunk  railway  and  the  Richelieu 
&  Ontario  Navigation  Company,  and  conducted  a 
ticket  office  at  Niagara  Falls  for  a  year.  In  1872  he 
was  transferred  by  these  companies  to  the  excursion 
business  along  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  since  that  time 
had  traveled  up  and  down  that  river  continuously  during 
the  summer.  To  travelers  he  was  known  as  the  "  St. 
Lawrence  guide."  He  represented  the  companies  in 
the  south  during  the  winter,  and  had  spent  but  little 
time  at  his  home  in  Rochester  for  several  years. 


vl^'.. 


A 


.4* 


4- 


h 


5 

Mr.  Babbage  often  referred  facetiously  to  his  super- 
fluous flesh  as  having  been  the  foundation  of  his 
business  success. 

Mr.  Babbage  died  suddenly  at  the  Marsden  House, 
Alexandria  Bay,  June  23,  1891,  having  but  recently 
^^  arrived  at  the  scene  of  his  summer  work.  Death  came 
as  a  sudden  summons  to  the  whole-souled  genial  man. 
He  left  one  daughter,  Etta  F.  Babbage,  "/ho  bravely 
took  up  the  work  of  her  father  and  carried  it  on 
successfully  for  the  summer  of  1891,  herself  personally 
superintending  the  distribution  of  books  and  maps,  and 
attending  to  other  details  of  the  business,  at  Cornwall 
Brothers'  dock.  Mr.  Babbage  was  a  member  of  the 
Odd  Fellows  and  the  Benevolent  and  Protective  Order 
of  Elks. 


A 


A 


* 


,-^- 


h 


A  CARD. 


In  assuming  this  work  which  my  father  conducted  for 
the  last  eighteen  years  so  successfully,  I  shall  endeavor 
to  continue  it  in  harmony  with  his  ideas  and  plans, 
which,  by  reason  of  our  relationship,  have  long  been 
familiar  to  me. 

It  is  the  only  correct  guide  for  the  tourist  or  tifaveler 
down  this  delightful  river  of  the  Thousand  Islands  ;  a 
description  of  every  point  of  interest  suggested  by  the 
thousand  and  one  questions  asked  of  my  father  during 
his  many  years  of  service  as  "  Guide  to  the  St.  Law- 
rence." It  is  a  continuation  also  of  the  incidents 
described  in  the  selections  entitled  :  "  The  People  I 
Have  Met  and  the  Things  I  Have  Seen,"  which  have 
served  so.  well  to  entertain  the  traveler,  and  relieve 
somewhat  the  monotony  incident  to  a  work  exclusively 
descriptive. 

It  is  not  my  purpose  to  attempt  any  new  description 
of  the  natural  scenery  of  the  Islands  or  the  Rapids,  but 
rather  to  describe,  as  occasion  demands,  the  changes 
and  improvements  wrought  by  the  hand  of  man. 

In  putting  out  this  little  volume  I  cannot  ask  for  it 
a  more  cheerful  greeting  than  it  received  during  the  life 
of  him  whose  memory  we  cherish. 

Very  respectfully, 

Etta  Babbage. 


< 


-s 


k 


(\ 


THE  "PHAT  BOY'S"  HOTEL. 


4 


The  "  Phat  Boy  "  issued  the.  following  prospectus  for 
a  hotel.  He  said  that  so  long  as  the  doors  were  made 
large  enough  to  admit  him^  he  did  not  care  much 
whether  the  establishment  was  constructed  in  Ottawa 
or  Utah,  but  for  sundry  and  manifold  reasons  would 
prefer  the  latter  locality.  Here  is  the  scheme,  how- 
ever, that  he  said  that  it  would  take  a  "  Groeco-Roman  " 
to  wrestle  with  : 


JS 


>, 


.,   'H 


"PROSPECTUS." 

This  new  hotel,  to  be  called  The  "  Phat  Bofs  ''Arms, 
and  to  be  built- for  the  special  comfort  and  convenience 
k  of  travelers.     On  arrival  every  guest  will  be  asked  how 

he  likes  the  situation,  and  if  he  says  the  hotel  should 
have  been  placed  on  the  knoll,  or  farther  down  towards 
any  particular  street,  the  location  of  the  house  will  be 
immediately  changed. 

Corner  front  rooms,  up  one  flight,  for  every  guest. 

Baths,  gas,  hot  and  cold  water,  laundry,  telegraph, 
restaurant,  fire  alarm,  bar-room,  daily  paper,  sewing 
machine,  grand  piano,  a  clergyman  and  all  other  modern 
conveniences  in  every  room. 

Meals  every  minute  if  desired,  and  consequently  no 
second  table.  English,  French  and  German  dictionaries 
furnished  every  guest,  to  make  such  a  bill  of  fare  as  he 
>  may  desire,  without  any  regard  to  the  bill  affair  after- 
wards in  the  office. 


8 


Waiters  of  any  nationality  or  color  desired.  Every 
waiter  furnished  with  a  libretto  button-hole  bouquet, 
full  dress  suit,  ball  tablet,  and  his  hair  parted  in  the 
middle.  Every  guest  will  have  the  best  seat  in  the 
dining  hall,  and  the  best  waiter  in  the  house.  Any 
guest  not  getting  his  breakfast  red  hot,  or  experiencing 
a  delay  of  sixteen  seconds  after  giving  his  order  for 
dinner,  will  please  mention  the  fact  at  the  office,  and  the 
cook  and  waiter  will  be  blown  from  the  mouth  of  a 
cannon  in  front  of  the  hotel  at  once. 

Children  will  be  welcomed  with  delight,  and  are 
requested  to  bring  hoops,  and  hockey  sticks  to  bang  the 
carved  rosewood  furniture,  especially  provided  for  that 
purpose,  and  peg  tops  to  spin  on  'velvet  carpets.  They 
will  be  allowed  to  bang  on  the  piano  at  all  hours,  yell 
in  the  halls,  slide  down  the  banisters,  fall  down  stairs, 
carry  away  dessert  enough  for  a  small  family  in  their 
pockets  at  dinner,  and  make  themselves  as  disagreeable 
as  the  fondest  mother  could  desire.  Washing  to  be 
allowed  in  rooms  and  ladies  giving  an  order  to  "  put  on  a 
flat  iron,"  will  be  put  on  one  any  hour  of  the  day  or  night. 

A  discreet  waiter  who  belongs  to  the  Masons,  Odd 
Fellows  and  Knights  of  Pythias,  and  who  was  never 
known  to  even  tell  the  time  of  day  will  be  employed  to 
carry  milk  punches  and  hot  toddies,  to  ladies'  rooms  in 
the  evening. 

Every  lady  will  be  considered  the  belle  of  the  house, 
and  run  boys  will  answer  the  belle  promptly. 

Should  any  run  boy  fail  to  appear  at  a  guest's  door 
with  a  pitcher  of  ice  water,  more  towels,  a  gin  cocktail 
and  a  pen,  ink  and  paper  before  the  guest's  hand  has 
left  the  bell  knob,  he  will  be  branded  'Fraud'  on  the 
forehead  and  imprisoned  for  life. 


"N 


iv 


A- 


c 


fV 


Ki 


"N 

iv 


K 


h 


t 


The  office  clerk  will  be  carefully  selected  to  please 
everybody  and  can  lead  in  prayer,  play  draw  poker^ 
match  worsted  at  the  village  store,  shake  for  the  drinks, 
any  hour,  day  or  night,  play  billiards,  a  good  waltzer, 
can  dance  the  German,  make  a  fourth  at  euchre,  amuse 
the  children,  and  repeat  the  Beecher  trial  from  memory, 
is  a  good  judge  of  horses,  and  as  a  railway  and  steam- 
boat reference,  is  far  superior  to  Appleton's  or  any 
other  guide,  will  flirt  with  any  young  lady,  and  will  not 
mind  being  cut  dead  when  *'  pa  comes  down,"  don't  mind 
being  damned  any  more  than  a  Connecticut  river,  can 
room  forty  people  in  the  best  room  in  the  house  when 
the  hotel  is  full,  attend  the  annunciator,  and  answer 
questions  in  Greek,  Hebrew,  Choctaw,  Irish,  or  any 
.  other  polite  language  at  the  same  moment  without 
turning  a  hair. 

Dogs  allowed  in  any  room  in  the  house,  including  the 
w(h)ine  room.  Gentlemen  can  drink,  smoke,  chew, 
swear,  gamble,  stare  at  new  arrivals,  and  indulge  in  any 
other  innocent  amusement,  common  to  watering-places, 
in  any  part  of  the  hotel. 

The  landlord  will  always  be  happy  to  hear  that  some 
other  hotel  is  "the  best  house  in  the  country." 

Special  attention  given  to  parties  who  can  give 
information  as  to  "  how  these  things  are  done  in 
'  Yurrup  '  " 

The  proprietor  will  take  it  as  a  personal  afront  if  any 
guest  on  leaving  shall  fail  to  dispute  his  bill,  tell  them 
that  they  are  swindlers,  their  house  a  barn,  their  table 
wretched,  their  wines  vile,  and  that  he,  at  least,  was 
never  so  imposed  upon  in  his  life. 


*i 


THE  "PHAT  BOY'S"  18  YEARS 

ON 
THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


THE  St.  Lawrence  River,  with  its  Tliousand  Islands 
and  Rapids,  is  day  by  day  attracting  more  and 
more  attention  among  tourists.  There  is  so  much  that 
is  grand,  weird,  sublime  and  exhilarating  in  the  scenery 
and  balmy  atmosphere  of  the  majestic  river,  as  it 
passes  in  its  onward  flow  from  the  lake  to  the  gulf,  that 
we  need  not  for  a  moment  wonder  why  it  is  that  there 
is  a  great  annual  increase  in  the  number  of  those 
intelligent  people,  who,  from  East,  West  and  South, 
repair  to  its  placid  waters  in  summer  to  recuperate 
their  wasted  energies  and  enjoy  that  luxuriating  season 
known  to  evei*y  American  as  "  vacation." 

A  vacation  on  the  St.  Lawrence  means  a  sojourn  at 
some  pretentious  or  lowly  cottage,  or  at  some  hotel 
of  either  class  for  a  few  days,  or  for  one,  two  or  more 
weeks,  as  the  time,  finances  and  inclinations  of  the 
individual  may  dictate  ;  or  it  may,  as  in  hundreds  of 
instances  it  does,  only  include  a  voyage  of  rapid 
transit  from  New  York  to  Utica,  Clayton,  Niagara 
Falls,  Lewiston,  Toronto  or  Kingston  to  Alexandria 
Bay  or  Montreal,  then  return  home.  There  are  several 
different  popular  starting  places  to  reach  the  river ; 
it  is  presumed  you  will  take  the  most  convenient  one^ 
and  we  will  consider  ourselves  pleased  with  the 
selection. 


t  - 


A 


-% 


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(       ■ 
1 


II 


fll\ 


-% 


HERE  IS  WHERE  YOU  BEGIN, 

dear  reader,  to  peruse  an  effort  of  mine  which  has 
taken  up  my  leisure  moments  for  the  past  eight  months; 
it  is  not  a  physical  effort,  or  it  would  have  been  larger, 
but  being  a  literary  one  is  a  good  reason  why  it  can  be 
held  within  such  a  small  space  as  two  hundred  pages. 
A  physical  effort  anywhere  near  my  size  you  would 
have  very  little  use  for.  While  traveling,  where  could 
you  store  it  away?  No  sardine  box  would  hold  it. 
You  could  not  put  it  into  a  satchel  or  trunk  nor  tuck  it 
away  in  any  little  convenient  place.  But  this  little 
volume  can  be  carried  most  anywhere.  I  have  tried  to 
make  it  of  such  a  desirable  size  that  it  can  rest  secure 
in  the  coat  pocket,  shawl-strap  or  in  the  hand.  It  is  a 
dose  for  an  adult,  not  to  be  shaken  before  taken,  as  you 
are  expected  to  shake  until  your  sides  ache  before  you 
get  through  it ;  do  not  be  in  a  hurry  ;  take  it  easy,  it  is 
more  pleasant  that  way.  Do  not  feel  offended  if  your 
name  is  not  mentioned  among  "The  People  I  Have 
Met."  Think  what  a  large  head  it  would  take  to 
contain  all  I  have  passed  ttirough  ;  but  console  yourself 
that  you  may  be  among  "  The  Things  I  Have  Seen." 

It  is  a  pleasure  as  well  as  a  duty  to  state  that  I  am 
indebted  to  Mr.  George  C.  Hawley,  Stenographer,  of 
Rochester,  N.  Y.,  who  so  ably  assisted  me  in  taking  my 
dictation  for  this  work. 


\\ 


(V 


1 


HOW  THE  METHODIST  CHURCH  LOST 

A  BISHOP. 

Some  time  ago,  way  back  in  the  fifties,  I  had  acquired 
a  taste  for  reading,  and  purchased  a  copy  of  the  New 
York  Ledger,  which  was  then  publishing,  for  the  first 


! 


I ! 


12 

time,  the  story  entitled  "  The  Gun  Maker  of  Moscow." 
My  father,  who  was  an  ardent  and  vigorous  Methodist, 
inquired  what  I  was  reading  ;  I  said  the  **  New  York 
Ledger  ; "  he  says,  "  What,  story  papers,  novels  ? " 
"  Why,"  I  said,  "  I  did  not  know,  it  was  a  paper  pub- 
lished and  it  contains  stories,"  and  he  remarked,  "  Do 
you  like  stories?"  and  I  said,  "  Well,  I  have  not  as  yet 
acquired  much  taste  for  stories.  This  is  the  first  story 
that  I  ever  attempted  to  read,  except  Robinson  Crusoe 
and  Jack,  the  Giant  Killer.  I  read  old  Rob.  until  he 
found  a  companion  named  Friday,  then  I  dropped  him. 
So  I  cannot  say  that  I  have  acquired  much  taste  for 
story  reading.  However,  I  might  develop  that  taste." 
So  my  father  promised  to  buy  a  book  with  a  story  on 
every  page  if  I  would  read  it  through.  So,  boy  like,  I 
promised  I  would,  and  he  proceeded  to  purchase  me  a 
book,  which  I  found  after  being  presented,  was  a  Bible, 
and  as  I  had  made  my  promise,  I  intended  to  keep  it, 
but  extorted  from  him  another  promise,  that  after  I  had 
read  it  through,  that  he  would  buy  me  another  book> 
knowing  that  it  would  not  be  another  Bible.  I  read  it 
through ;  not  understandingly,  but  because  I  desired  to 
keep  my  promise  to  my  father. 

Handing  him  the  Bible  one  day,  I  said,  "There, 
father,  I  have  read  that  book  through,  as  I  promised  I 
would."  He,  smiling,  said,  "Can't  you  find  any  new 
stories  in  this  ?  I  have  been  reading  this  good  book 
for  over  forty  years  and  I  can  find  a  new  story  every 
time  I  open  or  peruse  its  blessed  pages."  "Well,"  I 
said  to  him,  "  you  promised  that  when  I  had  read  this 
through  you  would  buy  me  another  book  and  I  know 
you  will  keep  your  word,"  which  he  did,  and  the  next 
book  he  bought  for  me  was  an  edition  of  Spurgeon's 


J( 


\ 


V- 


13 


A- 


•(•^ 


\ 


\- 


Sermons,  which  of  course,  was  a  chanp^e,  and  I  perused 
it  with  great  care  together  with  pleasure  as  well  as 
benefit. 

One  sermon  in  particular  impressed  me  and  that  was 
one  he  preached  to  sailors  going  from  England  to  Wales 
on  board  ship  one  Sunday  when  becalmed.  It  was  simply 
a  collection  of  fine  stories,  beautifully  woven  together, 
and  as  I  had  acquired  a  t  ste  for  story  telling,  it  was 
very  easy  for  me  to  commit  the  sermon  to  memory  by 
using  four  or  five  little  notes  which  could  be  placed  upon 
a  common  calling  card.  It  was  the  duty  of  our  whole 
family  to  attend  church  at  least  three  times  of  a  Sunday 
and  once  on  Sunday  night,  for  we  were  always  regular, 
but  this  Sunday  night  in  particular,  it  did  seem  to  me  as 
if  the  heavens  were  open  and  we  were  to  experience 
a  second  deluge,  for  I  never  in  my  life  saw  it  rain  so 
hard,  and  we  were  to  be  dragged  out  to  church  in  that 
shower,  quite  a  distance  to  the  Swamp  Angel  Methodist 
Church,  so  I  interposed  a  condition  and  stated  that  if 
father  would  stay  at  home,  as  well  as  the  rest  of  the 
family,  I  would  preach  them  a  sermon.  My  father  looked 
me  straight  in  the  eye  and  said,  "  Where  did  you  get  your 
sermon  from?"  and  I  said,  "  From  the  book  you  presented 
me,"  and  he  said,  "  All  right  ;  we  will  stay  at  home." 
And  so  the  family,  at  his  call,  went  into  the  parlor  and 
were  seated.  Afterwards  I  came  in  and  placing  the 
Bible  on  the  centre-table,  opened  it  to  where  my  text 
was  and  placed  a  little  card  with  the  notes  therein. 
After  singing  a  hymn  selected  from  the  books  we  had, 
my  father  was  requested  to  pray,  which  he  did,  and  I 
arose  to  deliver  myself  of  the  discourse,  which  lasted 
one  hour  and  ten  minutes.  My  father's  eyes  were  upon 
me  from  beginning  to  end,  and  while  the  tears  rolled  down 


14 


his  cheeks  my  attention  was  called  to  the  furrows  they 
had  made  in  his  face,  and  when  I  closed  we  sang  another 
hymn  and  my  mother  closed  the  services  with  prayer. 

The  only  thing  religious  that  I  forgot  was  the  taking 
up  of  a  collection  and  dismissing  them  with  a  benediction, 
but  my  mother  told  me  the  next  day  that  my  father 
never  slept  a  wink  that  night,  and  the  next  morning 
placed  $500.00  in  the  Rochester  Savings  Bank  to  my 
mother's  credit,  and  went  to  see  Professor  Dewey  to  pur- 
chase a  scholarship  for  me  in  the  Rochester  Theological 
Seminary,  but  the  next  day  I  ran  off  with  a  circus, 
and  the  next  twenty  years  of  my  life  I  spent  in  the 
show  business.  So  you  see  how  close  I  came  to  becom- 
ing a  bishop. 

It  is  evident  that  nature  done  her  part  of  it  in  giving 
me  this  manly  form  and  ponderous  size,  therefore  if  I 
had  done  my  part  and  went  to  college,  there  is  no  doubt- 
that  I  would  have  forced  myself  to  the  front  and  become 
a  Bishop. 

MY  VISIT   AT    THE    SUNDAY    SCHOOL 

EASTER. 

I  am  not  positive  as  to  the  day,  whether  Ash- 
Wednesday,  Candlemas  day,  Patrick's  day  or  Good 
Friday,  it  was  one  of  those  days  that  my  twin  brother, 
Dr.  E.  F.  Babbage,  said  to  me  "  Let  us  visit  the  church 
and  Sunday  school  of  our  youth,  that  we  attended  36 
years  ago,  next  Easter  day."  I  accepted  the  invitation  and 
joined  him  and  proceeded  to  the  Cornhill  M.  E.  Church. 
We  were  greeted  upon  our  arrival  by  our  old  friend, 
Brother  George  Leat,  who  escorted  us  to  a  front  seat 
near  the-preacher,  that  we  might  drink  in  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  the  spirit  at  short  range.    The  printed  pro- 


^ 


A. 


7 


^, 


15 

gram  which  was  distributed  among  the  audience  was 
rendered  in  a  very  pleasing  manner,  and  the  pastor 
preached  an  able  sermon  about  charity  and  the  beauty 
of  giving  to  the  cause  of  missions. 

After  the  sermon  we  were  invited  to  remain  to  Sunday 
school  and  were  requested  to  take  seats  upon  the 
platform  with  the  superintendent  during  the  session  of 
the  school.  We  were  asked  to  make  some  remarks. 
The  Doctor  arose  and  in  a  few  well  chosen  words 
informed  the  scholars  that  he  was  not  much  of  a  talker, 
but  he  had  brought  his  little  brother  along  who  was  a 
public  speaker  and  who  would  be  more  than  pleased  to 
address  them.  Of  all  the  embarrassing  positions  that 
it  has  been  my  good  fortune  to  have  been  placed  in,  this 
was  really  the  climax,  I  have  in  my  life  time  addressed 
audiences  ranging  from  loo  to  five  thousand,  but  never 
had  spoken  to  an  audience  composed  of  children.  Not 
until  after  I  had  risen  to  my  feet  did  I  take  in  the  situa- 
tion. It  became  self-evident  to  me  that  it  required  a 
sage  philosopher  to  address  a  Sunday  school  rnd  I 
knew  that  I  was  none,  but  it  was  necessary  for  me  to 
say  something,  therefore  I  told  them  that  36  years  ago 
I  was  a  scholar,  seated  where  these  little  boys  were  ; 
that  all  of  the  religious  instructions  that  I  had  ever 
received  were  imparted  to  me  in  this  church  and  Sunday 
school ;  that  for  thirty  odd  years  I  had  been  thrown 
upon  the  world,  and  that  the  amount  of  spiritual  teach- 
ings that  I  took  in  while  a  boy  had  sustained  me 
through  all  these  years,  and  I  hoped  for  the  next  30 
years  all  of  these  little  boys  and  girls  within  the  hearing 
of  my  voice  might  expand  and  grow  in  goc  '.  deeds  to 
be  as  much  better  Christian  men  and  women  than  I  am 
larger  than  you  are  to-day. 


i6 


IS  IT  COOL  AND    PLEASANT  AT   THE 
THOUSAND  ISLANDS? 

I  am  asked  that  question  scores  of  times  during  the 
winter  months,  by  people  who  are  desirous  of  finding  a 
comfortable  place  to  rest  during  the  heated  term.  After 
taking  a  perspective  view  of  this  huge  mountain  of  flesh, 
the  330  lbs.  which  adorn  my  manly  frame,  they  fire  this 
question  at  me  :  "  Do  you  pretend  to  say  that  the 
climate  at  the  Thousand  Islands  is  such  that  a  person 
possessing  the  avoirdupois  which  you  appear  to  have, 
can  be  made  comfortable  without  the  aid  of  a  fan  mill 
or  a  Wickes  Refrigerator  ? "  All  that  is  necessary  for 
me  to  say  is,  for  18  summers,  I  have  made  it  my  home 
as  it  is  the  only  place  I  can  recuperate  my  lost  energy. 
If  there  is  any  device  which  will  more  accurately  test 
the  heat  than  a  shirt  collar  of  a  man  whose  weight  is 
330  pounds,  I  would  like  to  be  in  possession  of  it.  i 
make  the  statement,  and  am  willing  to  prove  it  by  a 
preponderance  of  evidence,  that  there  has  never  been 
but  two  days  in  any  summer  that  I  have  been  overcome 
by  heat,  nor  more  than  two  nights  but  what  this  330 
pounds  could  slumber  9  hours  under  a  blanket.  Two 
nights  last  summer  I  will  admit  were  uncomfortable.  If 
the  dear  reader  will  pardon  me,  I  will  relate  a  little 
incident  which  befell  me.  One  of  these  hot  nights  I 
awoke  and  found  myself  lying  upon  my  back.  The  per- 
spiration had  oozed  from  my  manly  brow,  filling  the 
hollow  of  my  eyes  to  such  an  extent  that  I  could  not 
open  them.  It  dawned  upon  me  that  the  best  thing  I 
could  do  would  be  to  perform  a  contortion  act  and  turn 
this  large  body  over  on  its  side  so  that  the  water  might 
run  out.  I  did  so  and  the  experiment  proved  a  complete 
success. 


\ 


(' 


\ 


y 


17 


tr 


MY  ELEVENTH  COMMANDMENT. 

It  has  been  my  good  fortune  during  life  to  ha\e 
traveled  a  great  many  miles— been  in  every  city  in  North 
America  that  has  a  population  of  ten  thousand  souls,  and 

X  in  some  states  have  visited  nearly  every  town  and 
county.  I  have  a  natural  inclination  to  observe  not  only 
men,  but  I  have  made  a  study  of  human  nature,  conse- 
quently I  give  it  as  my  opinion  that  about  eight  out  of 
every  ten  persons  that  I  have  had  the  pleasure  to  meet, 
have  in  his  or  her  lifetime  received  religious  instruction 
when  young,  have  attended  Sunday  school  more  or  less, 
and  have  been  impressed  with  the  ten  commandments. 
Some  no  doubt  have  committed  them  to  memory,  and 
have  abided  by  them  and  used  them  as  a  guide  until 
they  have  attained  the  age  of  maturity  or  discretion. 
There  are  those  possibly  who  have  found  it  incumbent 
and  necessary  to  add  my  eleventh  commandment,  which 

i  reads  thus  :     "  Thou  shalt  look  after  thyself  first,  last 

'  and  all  the  time,  and  the  green  stuff."  Many  I  have 
met  who  have  discarded  the  ten  commandments 
altogether  and  held  the  eleventh  exclusively.  Relating 
this  little  story  regarding  my  codicil  to  the  ten  com- 
mandments, to  a  fellow  passenger  on  board  the  steamer 
*'  Chicora,"  plying  between  Toronto  and  Lewistown,  he 
informed  me  that  they  had  an  eleventh  commandment 
in  England,  which  he  learned  before  he  came  to  America 
which  read  thus  ;  *'  Do  up  everybody  or  else  everybody 
will  do  you  up."  A  gentleman  from  the  Green  Isle  per- 
chanced  to  hear  this  and  said,  "  Begorra,  you  want  to 
add  a  little  to  that :     'And  thou  shalt  not  get  caught  at 

L  it.'  "     Now,  dear  reader,  you  can  pay  your  money  and 

take  your  choice. 


i8 


! 


"DON'T  DO  IT." 

This  startling  head-line  when  it  strikes  the  eye, 
denotes  that  there  is  something  to  be  said  of  personal 
benefit  to  the  reader  of  the  article,  and  we  hope  to 
make  it  pleasant  as  well  as  profitable  to  those  who 
take  the  time  to  peruse  it.  To  begin  with,  we  desire 
to  say,  don't  get  fat  ;  do  not  allow  yourself  to  develop 
beyond  the  line  which  is  laid  down  for  the  average  man 
or  woman  ;  because,  if  you  do,  the  average  chair  will 
not  fit,  the  average  seat  in  a  railroad  coach  will  be  too 
small  ;  you  will  be  obliged  to  shrink  into  it,  and  then 
take  up  the  seat  of  another  after  you  get  in.  The 
same  trouble  will  occur  at  amusements,  which  you 
enjoy  very  much,  but  it  so  distorts  you  to  occupy  the 
chair  that  the  pleasure  is  lost  :  the  average  door  to  a 
hack  is  too  small,  and  so  is  the  omnibus,  and  you  are 
obliged  to  walk.  Here  you  will  enjoy  it,  especially  1f 
it  is  a  little  slippery,  dropping  now  and  then  three  hun- 
dred and  thirty  pounds,  because  your  friend  thinks  it 
does  not  hurt  a  fat  man  to  fall.  You  will  get  little 
sympathy  from  anyone,  this  I  guarantee,  because  I 
have  tried  it.  By  way  of  illustration,  if  I  had  not 
eaten  anything  for  three  days  but  a  yard  of  pump 
water,  and  was  to  come  to  a  friend  and  say  I  was 
hungry,  and  had  not  had  anything  to  eat  for  three  days, 
he  would  look  me  all  over,  and  in  reply  would  say: 
"  Well,  I  guess  you  can  stand  it  until  next  fall."  So 
the  fleshier  you  are,  the  less  sympathy  you  get.  And 
"  If  Dr.  Tanner  stood  it  for  forty  days,  you  have  suffi- 
cient fat  to  last  you  six  months,  to  say  the  least." 
Second,  you  become,  as  it  were,  a  curiosity,  and  all  look 
at  you  with  amazement,  and  wonder  what  circus  or  side 
show  you  escaped  from,  or  to  what  dime  museum  you 


•  X 


.^ 


19 


X 


./A. 


belong.  Third,  there  isn't  anything  made  for  the  average 
man  that  will  fit  you,  therefore  everything  must  be  made 
to  order  that  you  wear,  except  a  necktie,  pair  of  socks 
or  handkerchief.  The  latter  must  be  seven-eights  of 
a  yard  wide  in  order  to  hold  the  perspiration  it  will  mop 
up  in  once  passing  over  your  manly  brow. 

After  you  have  become  a  little  above  the  ?iverage 
size,  as  I  have  in  development,  and  are  conspicuous, 
everybody  will  know  you  ;  if  they  do  not,  it  will  be  easy 
for  them  to  find  out  ;  all  they  are  obliged  to  do  is  to  ask 
anyone.  You  will  not  know  only  those  of  your  rela- 
tions and  friends  very  near  to  you.  Then  this  world 
will  be  very  '  >nesome  and  cold,  or  your  experience  will 
be  different  from  mine.  No  one  will  ever  ask  you  to 
"  get  in  and  take  a  ride,"  no  matter  what  the  circum- 
stances may  be — as  they  think  of  forty  accidents  that 
might  occur,  and  you  are  too  large  a  body  for  the  aver- 
age springs  or  seat  in  any  vehicle.  It  would  be  a  treat 
(were  you  not  sensitive)  if  you  could  walk  one  block 
and  hear  the  expressions  that  come  from  the  vulgar 
throng  as  they  pass.  One  female,  with  eyes  like  two 
saucers,  exclaimed  :  "  Glory  be  to  the  father,  Mary 
Ann,  phwat's  that  ?"  And  another  says,  "  Gott  in  him- 
mel,  what  a  fat  man,"  or  a  lady  of  color  declare, 
"  Umph  !  Umph  !  !  Dat  am  de  fattest  man  I  ebber 
seed." 


SIR  WALTER  PELHAM,  ENGLAND'S 

GREATEST  HUMORIST. 

paid  the  Thousand  Islands  a  visit,  and  gave  his  unique 
entertauiments  in  different  places.  While  in  a  conver- 
sation with  him  on  the  dock  one  day  a  steamboat  arrived 
with   about   two   hundred   passengers   on    board    and 


20 


11 


)      I 


i     I 


\    i 


remained  about  fifteen  minutes,  during  which  time  Mr. 
Pelham  stood  by  my  side  taking  in  the  situation?*  After 
the  boat  had  left  he  remarked  that  it  was  a  fortunate 
thing  to  me  that  I  was  not  sensitive  in  /egard  to  my 
personal  appearance,  etc.  "  For  "  said  he,  "  of  these  two 
hundred  passengers  I  do  not  believe  one  of  them  missed 
seeing  you  and  scanning  your  manly  form  from  head  to 
foot.  I  would  suggest  that  when  you  die  you  be  placed 
in  a  memorial  window  for  future  generations  to  gaze 
upon."  When  he  had  finished  these  complimentary 
remarks  I  presented  him  a  copy  of  my  book.  The  next 
day  a  poem  was  handed  me,  together  with  Mr.  Pelham's 
compliments,  and  I  am  sorry  to  say  that  it  has  been  lost> 
strayed  or  stolen,  and  consequently  I  am  unable  to  pro- 
duce it  in  full,  and  can  only  give  what  little  I  remember. 


X 


From  Florence  to  E.  F.  Babbage. 


n 


in  your  "  People  I  have  met  and  the  Things  that  I  have  seen,' 
I  noticed  you  your  widowerhood  deplore  ; 

Now,  I  am  a  slender  maid, 

Not  of  adipose  afraid, 
Who  could  love  you  if  you  scaled  a  hundred  more. 


C 


r\ 


\-      \ 


If  you  were  twice  your  size,  my  sighs  the  same  I'd  breathe, 
Fat  ne'er  puts  out  a  flame  that's  lit  by  love  ; 
Then  come  along  with  me, 
And  let  us  married  be. 
And  be  my  little,  popsie  wopsie  dove. 

For  when  we  two  are  one,  the  better  half  then  I, 
Your  adipose  of  course  will  half  be  mine, 

Therefore  at  once  agree. 

Oh  !  think  how  sad  'twill  be, 
Thy  Fatima  for  you  to  longer  pine. 


r 


■/■ , 


A 


21 

Oh,  guide  of  sweet  St.  Lawrence,  devote  your  fat  to  Florence. 
And  leave  the  wandering  river's  flowing  tide  ; 

The  beauty  of  the  waters 

Compare  not  with  Eve's  daughters, 
So  make  me  just  the  happiest  of  brides. 

Then  board  the  nuptial  craft,  or  matrimonial  raft, 
Your  oil  will  sure  subdue  life's  stormy  waves  ; 

And  live  with  me  in  peace. 

And  have  your  joys  in  grease. 
Till  called  to  lard  our  vaults  or  common  graves. 

"  Till  death  do  us  part,  as  it  were,  etc." 

A  LITTLE  ONE  FOR  THE  BENEFIT  OF 

"DANA'S"  SUN. 

George  P.  Ewing,  a  congenial  drummer  for  a  cele- 
brated New  York  manufacturing  company,  chanced  to 
hear  a  conversation  between  a  mother  and  her  daughter 
while  taking  a  trip  from  Alexandria  Bay  to  Montreal. 
The  young  lady  had  purchased  a  copy  of  my  book,  and 
after  readir  r  it  had  handed  it  to  her  mother,  who,  upon 
looking  at  the  picture  on  the  cover,  exclaimed  very 
excitedly,  "  Where  did  you  get  that  fearful  book  with 
Grover  Cleveland's  picture  on  it  ?"  The  daughter 
soothed  the  old  lady  by  telling  her  that  it  was  not 
Cleveland's  picture,  but  it  was  a  photo  of  Mr.  Babbage, 
and  the  book  contained  a  description  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
River,  written  by  the  Author  after  Eighteen  years'  ser- 
vice, and  a  perusal  of  it  gave  her  more  pleasure  than 
anything  she  had  read  since  she  left  hornet 


A  HORSE  ON  THE  SCHOOL  MARM. 

The  large  verandas  of  the  different  hotels,  cottages 
and  houses  of  the  Thousand  Islanders,  support  easy 
rockers  and  comfortable  furniture  of  all  sorts  for  the 


# 


^!t 


!  t 


■■t 


,i 


22 

accommodation  of  their  guests,  and  when  full  and 
brought  in  close  proximity,  present  fine  opportunities  to 
relate  reminiscences  and  spin  yarns  until  one  cannot 
rest.  I  will  say  that  I  had  the  pleasure  of  being  one  of 
a  lively  crowd  who  had  assem.bled  on  the  balcony  of  one 
of  the  large  hotels  last  summer  ;  there  were  twenty  of 
us,  and  all  females  with  the  exception  of  myself,  and  I 
am  a  female's  friend.  I  soon  found  that  I  was  in  the 
midst  of  a  lot  of  school  teachers,  and  before  I  could 
recover  my  accustomed  modesty,  I  was  persuaded  to 
relate  a  funny  story  ;  at  first  I  declined  with  the  expla- 
nation that  I  could  not  think  of  any  story  that  would  be 
of  interest  to  them,  but,  I  remarked,  that  as  you  insist 
upon  my  saying  something,  and  as  I  observe  that  you  are 
all  school  teachers,  I  will  relate  the  school  marm  story. 
There  was  a  little  red  school  house  in  a  very  remote 
place  ;  two  boys  were  near  a  window  looking  out  ;  one 
of  the  boys  being  much  larger  than  the  other,  he  saw  in 
an  adjoining  lot  a  mule  ;  turning  to  his  schoolmate  he 
said  :  *•  Johnnie,  if  I  had  a  couple  of  lips  like  that  mule, 
I  would  like  to  kiss  the  school  marm."  This  caused  the 
smaller  boy  to  laugh,  which  attracted  the  school  teach- 
er's attention  ;  she  called  him  forward  and  interrogated 
him  as  to  the  cause  of  his  laughter  ;  he  said  he  did  not 
care  to  tell.  "  But  if  you  do  not  I  will  whip  you."  He 
related  in  substance  what  his  friend  had  said  after  much 
persuasion  ;  as  a  punishment  she  kept  the  larger  boy 
after  school.  One  of  the  young  ladies  remarkt  ',  that 
if  she  had  been  that  teacher  she  would  have  whipped 
him  right  on  the  spot,  and  I  said,  "  no  you  wouldn't,  you 
wouldn't  hit  a  boy  on  the  spot  ;  that  is  the  worst  place 
in  the  world  to  strike  a  boy."  She  blushed,  covered 
both  hands  with  her  face  and  I  left. 


A 


33 

MY    MEETING    WITH    DAVID    DUDLEY 

FIELD,   OR    HOW    I    EARNED 

TWENTY-TWO  CENTS. 

A  season  or  two  ago  Alexandria  Bay  was  honored 
with  a  vrsit  from  David  Dudley  Field,  the  distinguished 
jurist.  Seeing  one  day  he  was  about  to  be  a  passenger 
on  the  boat  Island  Wanderer  for  a  trip  among  the 
Islands,  I  thought  I  would  introduce  myself  to  him,  and 
at  the  same  time  make  him  a  present  of  my  book  and 
map,  as  it  would  give  him  the  name  of  every  island, 
cottage  and  stopping  place  of  the  boat  on  her  trip. 
Approaching  him  I  said  :  "Mr.  Field,  I  have  here  a 
little  book  which  on  page  49  commences  a  description 
of  your /trip  this  afternoon."  He  took  the  book  (it  was 
then  called  Humorous  Lectures)  out  of  my  hand  and 
upon  reading  the  title  said  :  "  I  don't  want  anything 
humorous  ; ''  and  I  remarked  that  it  was  only  humorous 
where  it  was  not  descriptive,  and  if  he  didn't  care  for  it  I 
had  a  picture  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River.  Before  I  could 
say  any  more  he  had  turned  the  book  over  and  saw  the 
price  of  it  was  twenty- five  cents,  and  he  commenced 
going  through  almost  a  contortion  of  body,  and  fumbling 
in  his  pockets  for  the  twenty-five  cents  to  get  rid  of  me, 
and  I  saw  that  his  efforts  were  in  vain,  for  all  he  could 
produce  was  twenty-two  cents,  and  he  forced  me  to  take 
it,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  I  had  said  to  him  that  I 
came  there  for  the  purpose  of  making  him  a  present  of 
my  book,  also  a  picture  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River, 
which  I  repeated  again.  Then  he  said,  "Why  didn't 
you  do  it  then,"  and  my  answer  was,  that  "You  didn't 
give  me  time,  and  seeing  that  you  have  thrust  this 
twenty-two  cents  upon  me  I  shall  have  the  pleasure  o 


i 


24 

keeping  it  until  I  return  home,  and  then  it  shall  go  into 
my  museum  of  curiosities.     When  you  come  and  visit  me- 
you  shall  see  it." 

HOW  WOMEN   FISH. 

Having  read  various  descriptions  of  how  fishing  is 
carried  on  by  the  fair  sex  at  the  several  watering  places, 
permit  us  to  mention  some  of  them.  One  writer  said  : 
"Ah  !  what  joy  to  have  a  bite  ;  what  rare  delight  to 
find  one's  bait  gone  " — and  it  was  only  by  the  suicidal 
policy  of  some  water-weary  fish  who  chanced  to  pass 
our  way  that  we  could  record  one  fish  for  our  day's 
sport.     How  different  is  the  fishing  at  the  Bay. 

As  an  illustration,  a  very  funny  anecdote  was  recited 
to  me  by  Mr.  J.  C.  Colvert,  editor  of  the  Cleveland 
Leader^  who  said,  "  Talk  about  ladies  catching  fish  ;  I  am 
somewhat  of  an  angler  myself  and  take  a  great  deal  of 
comfort  fishing  at  the  Bay.  The  other  day  I  was  out 
fishing  with  my  wife,  who,  by  the  way,  had  no  preten- 
sions as  a  captivator  of  the  finny  tribe,  yet  she  caught 
seven  fish  before  I  had  time  to  put  my  line  into  the 
water."  This  somewhat  astonished  me,  and  I  remarked 
that  he  must  have  been  very  slow  that  morning.  He 
answered  by  telling  me,  "  No  !  On  the  contrary,  I  was 
very  lively  ;  all  my  time  was  employed  taking  the  fish 
off  and  baiting  her  hook."  He  entered  a  protest  after 
that  and  let  the  boatman  attend  to  Mrs.  Covert's  line 
while  he  enjoyed  the  sport. 

A  gentleman  says  of  the  fishing  near  the  Hudson  : 
*•  The  first  thing  a  woman  does  when  she  goes  fishing  is 
to  make  herself  look  as  hideous  as  possible — a  sort  of  a 
cross  between  the  Witch  of  Endor  and  Meg  Merrilies. 
This  is  done  by  a  hideous  straw  hat  big  enough  to  cover 


^>y  bA 


go  into 
visit  me- 


hing  is 
:  places, 
r  said  : 
light  to 
suicidal 
to  pass 
lir  day's 

recited 
eveland 
;  I  am 
:  deal  of 
was  out 
)  preten- 
!  caught 
into  the 
emarked 
ng.  He 
ry,  I  was 

the  fish 
est  after 
;rt's  line 

Hudson  : 
fishing  is 
sort  of  a 
vierrilies. 
to  cover 


n^ 


/  vy  m^^ 


2$ 

a  chicken  coop,  the  oldest  and  most  unbecoming  dress 
she  has  got,  a  pair  of  gloves  six  sizes  too  large,  and,  if 
possible,  rubber  boots.  And  the  sight  of  woman,  lovely 
woman,  so  dressed,  presents  a  spectacle  of  pity."  You 
will  not  have  occasion  to  pity  any  of  the  ladies,  who  go 
fishing  from  the  Bay,  for  they  look  so  jaunty  you  would 
envy  them  and  their  enjoyment  as  well  as  fish.  I  have 
known  Mrs.  Madden  and  party  to  bring  home  thirty  fish 
varying  in  size  from  a  3^  black   bass   to   a  7    pound 

pickerel.     A  friend  writes  from  C Lake,  telling 

how  he  spent  a  day  fishing  there,  accompanied  by  three 
ladies  and  a  gentleman  friend.  "  Women  never  step 
into  a  boat  here,  they  always  jump.  Of  course  she 
slips,  falls  down,  yells  for  help,  nearly  upsets  the*  boat, 
and  is  put  to  rights  by  the  most  eligible  young  man  in 
the  party.  Nothing  will  do  then,  but  she  must  row, 
and  she  knows  as  much  about  rowing  as  a  cow  does 
about  billiards.  She  handles  her  oars  as  if  they  were 
trees,-  splashes  every  one  with  water,  and  after  half  an 
hour's  work  she  is  about  ten  feet  away  in  the  wrong 
direction,  when  one  of  the  men  takes  the  oars  and  we 
are  soon  at  our  fishing  place.  She  tries  to  bait  her 
hook,  and  after  getting  the  hook  into  all  her  fingers  (in 
fact  everywhere  but  into  the  minnow),  her  friend  baits 
her  hook,  and  she  throws  it  out.  The  first  time  it 
catches  onto  one  of  the  ladies'  ears,  the  next  throw 
into  the  back  of  the  gentleman's  neck,  and  the  third 
time  into  the  coat  of  her  friend,  who  quietly  cuts  it  out 
(it  is  his  best  coat),  and  he  gently  puts  the  line  into  the 
water  without  saying  a  cuss  word,  and  says  he  hopes 
slfe  will  catch  a  whale. 

After  a  few  moments  of  quiet  all  are  informed  she  has 
a  bite  ;  she  pulls  it  in  steadily  to  find  it  is  part  of  the 


26 


\     ! 


I 


i     ! 


carcass  of  a  dead  horse.  She  is  soon  relieved  of  the 
burden  and  catches  a  small  perch.  She  is  so  delighted 
that  she  must  let  it  flop  into  the  faces  of  every  one  in 
the  boat,  tries  for  twenty  minutes  to  take  it  off  the 
hook,  but  her  fingers  are  so  sore  she  lets  the  job  out  to 
her  male  companion.  One  of  the  other  ladies  has  sat 
for  two  hours  without  moving  a  muscle,  while  the  other 
I  believe,  would  fish  with  a  hair-pin  baited  with  a  piece 
of  red  flannel,  hung  to  a  skein  of  silk  in  a  stationary 
wash-tub,  and  solemnly  declare  when  she  got  through 
that  she  had  millions  of  bites.  Dear  lady  readers,  we 
have  no  such  experiences  to  relate  at  Alexandria  Bay. 
The  boats  are  the  prettiest,  the  fishermen  the  nicest,  the 
fish  the  largest  and  best,  the  boatman  bait  your  hooks. 
The  hotel  furnishes  the  lunch,  and  you  are  sure  to  catch 
fish.  When  they  are  cooked  and  you  eat  your  meal 
served  upon  an  Island,  and  do  not  say  you  have  had  the 
most  pleasant  day  ever  spent  fishing,  draw  on  me  for 
the  balance.  P.  B. 


A  WORD  TO  MY  PROFESSIONAL 
FRIENDS. 

While  it  may  not  be  known  to  all  who  are  fortunate 
enough  to  obtain  a  copy  of  my  work  and  peruse  the 
same,  nevertheless  it  is  a  fact  that  about  twenty  years  of 
my  life  I  was  engaged  in  what  is  commonly  called  the 
show  business. 

In  1858, 1  started  in,  in  the  employ  of  Mr.  George  Lee 
of  New  York  City,  now  proprietor  of  Port  Jarvis,  N.  Y., 
Opera  House,  in  connection  with  Jack  Hudson  Snd 
Billy  Jackson,  who  were  considered  at  that  time  the 
best  side  show  people  in  the  business.     I  then  connected 


r 


37 


f 


myself  with  John  Graff  am  as  a  glass  blower  in  i860  and 
'61.  My  next  step  was  with  the  Woodruff  Bros.,  later 
George  Woodruff,  the  celebrated  Bohemian  troop  of 
fancy  glass  blowers.  La  Rue's  Carnival  Minstrels,  and 
MacEvoy's  Hibernicon,  etc.,  etc.  It  would  be  a  pleasure 
to  go  on  and  write  a  detail  sketch  of  my  career  as  a 
showman,  but  the  old  saying  is,  that  life  is  short  and  we 
have  not  long  to  live  and  we  a:e  certainly  a  long  time 
dead.  I  will  omit  a  biographical  outline  of  my  life  until 
later ;  I  will  say  that  it  has  been  a  pleasure  to  me  to 
meet  my  old  associates  and  professional  friends  during 
my  18  years  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  among  which  I  am 
pleased  to  mention  Mr.  Sol  Smith  Russell,  whom  I  first 
met  as  far  back  as  1867.  He  was  quite  young  at  that 
time,  but  full  of  ambition  and  talent,  and  I  have  watched 
with  a  great  deal  of  interest  his  professional  career.  I 
have  many  a  little  anecdote  which  I  could  relate  of  his 
ability,  tact  and  humor,  but  it  is  a  question  in  my  mind 
whether  they  would  be  of  interest  to  my  readers,  and  I 
know  not  whether  Mr.  R.  would  love  to  have  them  pub- 
lished. I  will  be  brief  and  say,  that  had  I  been  a  wise 
man  I  would  have  accepted  the  position  offered  me  to 
become  his  manager,  which  he  proffered.  I  would  have 
been  worth  a  half  million  instead  of  Mr.  Fred  D.  Burger 
his  present  courteous  and  amiable  manager  who  can 
draw  his  check  for  that  amount.  I  do  not  envy  them, 
am  only  glad  to  be  classed  with  their  "  Poor  Relations." 
Ed.  Harrigt  n  and  his  manager,  Mart  W.  Hanley,  with 
their  families,  made  the  trip  with  me  from  Niagara 
Falls  to  Montreal,  taking  the  steamer  from  Kingston 
through  the  Thousand  Islands  and  Rapids  of  the  St, 
Lawrence  to  Montreal.  After  watching  Mr.  Harrigan 
all  day,  and  noticing  how  minutely  he  takes  in  all  thai 


I 


28 

surrounds  him,  and  how  for  hours  he  was  among  the 
deck  hands  studying  character,  I  am  satisfied  how  easy 
it  must  be  for  him  to  write  a  play  depicting  the  many 
positions  and  scenes  in  every  day  life  that  he  lias  him- 
self passed  through.  I  called  upon  him  in  May  and 
found  the  two  young  kids  Johnnie  Wild  and  Billy  West 
with  Reilly  and  the  four  hundred.  Wm.  R.  Hayden, 
Senator  Crane,  Yokes  Family,  Jno.  P.  Smith,  W.  S. 
Meysteer,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chas.  MacEvoy,  Mr.  Neil  Bur- 
gess, Henry  E.  Abbey,  John  Schoeffel,  Lafe  Heidel, 
John  Henshaw,  Frank  B.  Cilley,  Charles  B.  Ghrist,  Gus 
Williams,  Dan  Morris  Sullivan  and  Mr.  Joseph  Murphy, 
Tom  Karl,  the  great  Barnaby,  P.  T.  Barnum,  Buffalo 
Bill,  Denman  Thompson,  Charles  J.  Evans,  Gus 
Pennoyer,  Frank  Edwards,  Charles  H.  Bradshaw,  Pierce 
Jarvis,  E.  O.  Rogers,  Mr.  James  Lewis,  John  W.  Ransone 

and  wife,  and  enough  others  to  more  than  half  fill  the 
soup  tureen. 

THE- ONE  I  ENVIED    MOST. 

A  short  time  ago  a  party  of  old-time  show  people  per- 
chanced  to  assemble  in  one  of  the  leading  hotels  -  in 
Rochester.  It  was  my  pleasure  to  be  among  the  num- 
ber. After  listening  to  a  large  amount  of  old  narratives 
of  trial  and  tribulation  I  was  called  upon  to  delineate 
one.  I  did  so  and  the  substance  of  it  I  will  state  here 
in  a  narrative  form  for  the  benefit  of  some  young 
aspirant  who  desires  to  follow  the  business. 

Gus  Pennoyer,  the  agent,  business  manager  and 
treasurer  of  the  gre.^t  actress,  Lotta,  and  myself  were 
doing  the  Pacific  coast  in  1872.  I  was  the  accredited 
representative  of  Charles  MacEvoy's  original  Hiber- 
nicon.      We   had   been   in    San   Francisco  five  weeks 


J 


39 


./ 


\ 


together.  He  started  out  one  week  ahead  of  me  to  bill 
Vallejo,  Oakland,  San  Jose,  Sacramento,  Marysville,  etc. 
As  I  followed  him  it  was  necessary  in  order  to  make  my 
announcements  of  the  coming  of  my  show  to  cover  his 
paper  ;  on  several  occasions  he  very  kindly  allowed  me 
to  do  so  two  or  three  days  in  advance.  One  day  while  at 
Marysville  we  went  into  the  office  of  the  hotel.  I  told  him 
that  I  had  a  little  matter  that  I  wished  to  communicate  to 
him  and  if  he  would  take  a  seat  I  would  divulge  it.  He  did 
so  and  listened  to  me  with  a  great  deal  of  interest.  I 
told  him  that  as  the  agent  and  representative  of  Charles 
MacEvoy's  Hibernicon  I  envied  him  and  his  position  as 
agent  of  Lotta.  He  remarked  laughing,  "  Well,  hold 
on  a  minute,  let  us  compare  notes  and  so  see  who  has 
got  the  best  of  it.  What  are  your  duties  ?  What  serv- 
ices do  you  render  ?"  I  said  "  I  am  his  credited  agent, 
and  as  such  I  secure  all  dates,  lay  out  the  routes,  order 
all  printing,  and  do  all  of  the  business  connected  with 
the  success  of  the  entertainment  except  giving  the 
same.  He  follows  in  my  track,  pays  all  bills  contracted 
by  me."  He  asked  me  if  it  wasn't  necessary  for  me  to 
be  with  my  company.  I  told  him  no  I  didn't  see  them 
sometimes  for  six  weeks.  I  was  always  supplied  with 
funds  in  advance  by  my  manager.  Then  he  said,  "  My 
dear  boy,  you  have  envied  me  and  have  been  honest  and 
told  me  of  it.  I  am  going  to  be  honest  and  tell  you  that 
while  I  am  the  agent  of  Lotta  my  duties  are  very  much 
different  from  yours.  I  have  in  charge  Miss  Lotta,  her 
mother,  a  parrot  and  a  dog,  mu€t  attend  to  their  transpor- 
tation from  place  to  place,  and  from  depot  to  hotel,  and 
from  hotel  to  opera  house  or  hall  ;  must  see  that  they 
have  a  corner  front  room  on  the  parlor  floor,  must  be 
ready  at  all  times  to  match  worsted  at   the  corner 


:    Hi 


30 

grocery  store,  walk  three  or  four  miles  per  day  to  exercise 
the  dog,  sleep  with  one  eye  open  to  be  ready  to  go  for  a 
doctor  in  case  the  old  lady  or  the  parrot  should  be  taken 
ill,  attend  to  the  box  office  receipts  as  well  as  the  tickets 
at  the  door,  commit  all  the  parts  so  as  to  be  able  to 
assume  any  one  of  the  characters  in  the  cast  in  case  of 
sickness  or  inability  to  perform  of  some  member  of  the 
troupe.  You  say  you  now  have  six  hundred  dollars  of 
MacEvoy's  money.  I  represent  Lotta  and  don't  carry 
five  cents.  Your  salary  is  ten  dollars  a  week  more  than 
mine.  Taking  everything  into  consideration  I  am  of  the 
opinion  that  you  are  the  one  to  be  envied,  and  not  you 
to  envy  me. 

YOU  KNOW  HER. 

She  is  one  of  the  strong  minded  of  the  female  sex^ 
and  generally  has  her  own  way  in  everything.  At  any 
rate,  she  stands  ready  at  any  and  all  times  to  combat 
with  any  one  of  the  lords  of  creation,  or  otherwise,  who 
may  dispute  her  sway.  We  prefer  your  imagination  to 
fill  in  a  description,  because  it  would  be  n^xt  to  an 
impossibility  for  me  to  do  so.  She  has  all  the  requisites; 
the  thin,  tall  figure,  the  hatchet  face,  sharp  nose,  wears 
glasses,  and  always  carries  an  umbrella.  About  one 
each  day  will  pass  down  this  route  in  Summer,  except 
when  an  Eastern  or  Western  Excursion  comes ;  then  it 
will  be  hard  to  select .  those  who  are  not  of  her  kind. 
The  first  object  that  strikes  her  eye  is  oiir  manly  figure. 
After  looking  it  well  over,  she  remembers  that  fat  peo- 
ple are  proverbially  jolly  and  good  natured,  so  she 
breaks  into  conversation,  and  about  the  first  question 
she  asks  is :  "  Were  you  always  as  large  as  you  are 
now  ?  "     "  Oh,  yes  !  I  was  born  this  size."     The  answer 


1. 


\ 


1. 


3t 

causes  her  to  discover  that  she  has  left  out  the  word 
"proportion."  So  she  apologizes,  smiles  for  the  first 
time,  and  we  are  friends  for  the  trip. 

WILL  HE  HAVE  IT  THERE? 

An  English  tourist  registered  at  "  The  Crossmon, 
Alexandria  Bay,  asked  the  clerk  for  a  corner  room  up 
one  flight,  on  shady  side,  a  special  hall  boy,  meals 
served  in  room,  a  bath,  and  candle  instead  of  gas,  steam 
heat  and —  "  Hold  on  !  "  said  the  clerk  ;  "  I  think  you 
have  made  a  mistake  ;  this  is  not  heaven." 

LORD  H.  U.  MERRIAM 

was  a  visitor  at  Alexandria  Bay  one  season,  and  while 
he  remained  put  up,  from  choice,  at  the  Marsden  House, 
Alexandria  Bay.  We  were  very  intimate  and  social 
during  his  stay,  and  I  inferred  he  came  where  I  take  my 
meals  to  see  if  he  could  get  as  fat  as  I  am. 


WHAT  I  KNOW  ABOUT  ELI  PERKINS. 

Some  few  years  ago  Mr.  Perkins  was  a.  Passenger  on 
one  of  the  boats.  I  do  not  know  whether  he  took  me 
for  the  captain,  director  or  manager  of  the  line,  or  not, 
but  he  exerted  himself  considerably  to  form  my 
acquaintance.  There  was  nothing  unusual  about  that, 
however,  as  there  is  something  "  distingue  "  about  me, 
and  when  on  the  boat  I  stand  considerably  "above 
proof."  I  have  frequently  dined  at  the  same  table  with 
the  Governor-General,  Lord  Dufferin,  and  retinue — 
after  his  lordship  had  left.  But  to  return  to  Eli.  The 
day  in  question  I  was  upon  the  boat,  as  usual,  describing 
the  points  of  interest,  especially  the«one  on  the  Cana- 


32 


is 


!l> 


!^ 


f     . ': 


dian  shore,  where  the  St.  Regis  Indians  come  year  after 
year  to  gather  the  famous  elm  and  basswood  with  which 
to  make  their  celebrated  baskets.  I  was  delineating  at 
some  length  upon  the  noble  red  man,  when  Eli  came  to 
me  and  said,  "  I  will  write  you  a  verse  of  poetry  about 
that."  Glad  to  get  a  memento  in  that  shape  from  so 
distinguished  an  individual,  who  had  so  often  been 
accused  of  being  witty,  I  said  it  would  please  me  very 
much.     Here  is  the  verse  : 

"  Once  here  the  noble  red  man  took  his  delights, 

Fit,  fished  and  bled  ; 
Now  most  of  the  inhabitants  are  white. 

With  nary  a  red." 

I  thanked  him  very  profusely,  and  on  subsequent 
occasions  took  great  delight  in  repeating  the  lines  to  the 
passengers,  never  forgetting  for  a  moment  to  remind 
them  that  they  were  written  for  me  by  the  alleged 
American  humorist.  One  day,  after  delivering  myself 
of  the  poetry  and  repeating  to  the  passengers  that  it 
was  written  by  the  celebrated  poet,  writer,  humorist 
and  lecturer,  Eli  Perkins,  I  was  approached  by  an  ex- 
ceedingly polite  and  affable  gentleman,  whom  I  learned 
was  Mr.  John  H.  Rochester,  of  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  who 
asked  me  if  he  understood  me  correctly  in  attributing 
the  authorship  of  the  lines  quoted  to  Mr.  Perkins.  I 
assured  him  that  he  had  written  them  expressly  for  me 
and  produced  in  Eli's  own  hand-writing  the  original 
copy.  With  a  subdued  smile  resting  upon  his  count- 
enance, Mr.  Rochester  informed  me  that  there  must  be  an 
error  somewhere,  as  a  gentleman,  a  Mr.  Fletcher,  had 
written  a  poem  in  1834,  in  which  the  exact  verse  occur- 
ed,  and  he  proceeded  to  repeat  the  verse  from  memory. 
This  took  me  slightly  back,  and  I  subsequently  came  to 


33 


t 


K 


the  conclusion,  with  "my  f  rienu"  of  the  Ot7  City  Derrick^ 
that  a  cabbage  leaf  was  never  more  at  home  than  when 
in  the  crown  of  "Uli  Perkins*  hat."  After  that  1  had  no 
more  use  for  the  poem,  but  determined  if  I  ever  met 
"Uli"  I  should  call  to  his  mind  the  circumstances  con- 
nected with  "his  little  poem."  I  had  not  long  to  wait, 
for  one  day,  while  in  Evansville,  Ind.,  at  the  St.  George 
Hotel,  I  met  the  gentleman,  and  recalled  the  circum- 
stances connected  with  the  little  verse,  and  he,  with  a 
perfect  air  of  nonchalance,  said  that  he  had  never  given 
it  a  thought  since — dashed  it  off  in  a  minute.  I  told 
him  how  remarkable  it  was  that  great  minds  often 
run  in  the  same  channel,  and  related  my  experi- 
ence with  his  gem.  He  scowled,  and  turning  on 
his  heel,  said  it  was  indeed  a  singular  word-for-word 
resemblance,  but  changed  the  subject  at  once,  and 
asked  me  to  his  room  on  the  following  morning, 
which  invitation  I  cheerfully  accepted,  doting  all  the 
evening  upon  having  a  nice  time,  and  swapping  a 
few  gags,  etc.,  etc.;  but  my  hopes  were  blighted,  for 
the  next  morning  I  was  informed  of  his  very  early 
departure — gone  up  to  lie  to  the  people  of  Rockport,  I 
was  told.  "Uli"  is  a  great  man  aivd  contracts  a  larger 
amount  of  business  upon  a  small  amount  of  capital 
than  any  public  character  I  know  of.  When  Eli  reads 
this  I  expect  he  will  load  his  big  gun — not  intellectual, 
but  otherwise — and  come  for  me.  I  will  therefore  give 
him  a  pointer  in  advance;  there  won't  anything  scare 
me  but  a  stomach  pump. 


H.  R.  CLARK,  of  New  York. 

This  litte  volume  would  not  be   complete  if  it  did  not 
mention  his  name,  not  only  in  connection   with  the  fish- 


I 


ii 


34 

ing  at  Alexandria  Bay,  but  the  facts  of  his  having 
given  more  time  and  money  towards  stopping  illegal 
fishing  than  all  the  owners  of  cottages  and  islands  com- 
bined. He  was  elected  an  honorable  member  of  the 
Canadian  Fisheries  Commission,  and  was  the  prime 
mover  in  forming  the  Anglers'  Association  of  the 
Thousand  Islands,  and  personally  captured  more  nets 
than  all  others  interested.  He  is  the  most  enthusiastic 
as  well  as  the  best  posted  gentleman  that  comes  to  the 
Islands  to  fish,  and  knows  more  about  the  habits  and 
nature  of  the  finny  tribe  than  any  other  party  who 
comes  here.  He  won  the  gold  medal  given  for  the 
largest  and  best  catch  of  fish  for  the  season  of  1885. 
His  standing  offer  to  catch  ten  pounds  of  fish  in  a  given 
hour,  in  any  day,  from  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  during 
th;i  season,  or  give  ten  dollars  to  any  charitable  institu- 
tion I  may  mention,  if  he  fails.  Here  is  one  of  hts 
catches  on  an  eight-ounce  rod,  a  single  leader,  a  "G" 
line,  a  fish  weighing  seventy-eight  pounds,  girt  measure 
twenty-nine  inches,  length  sixty-three  inches,  time  in 
landing  one  hour  and  five  minutes.  Beat  this  and  I  will 
tell  you  more. 

Hon.  A.  CORNWALL,  of  Alexandria  Bay. 

Cornwall  &  Walton  were  the  original  purchasers  of 
the  Thousand  Islands,  in  the  American  channel  of  the 
river,  from  the  goverDment.  Mr.  A.  Cornwall  is  the 
survivor  of  the  firm  and  therefore  the  father  of  them,, 
and  I  call  him  Pa.  If  you  desire  any  information  not 
in  this  volume,  call  on  him  at  the  old  stone  stores  of 
Cornwall  Brothers,  and  he  will  give  it  to  you  cheerfully. 
He  is  an  Encyclopedia  of  facts  on  the  St.  Lawrence  or 
the  Thousand  Islands. 


-K 


35 

WHAT  AND  WHO  MADE  ALEXANDRIA 

BAY. 

In  1872  President  U.  S.  Grant  visited  this  delightful 
spot,  a  guest  of  Geo.  M.  Pullman,  of  palace  car  fame, 
Pullman  Island.  There  was  at  that  time  inadequate 
hotel  accommodations,  for  the  tourist  as  well  as  the 
visitor  who  had  been  drawn  to  this,  the  most  beautiful, 
natural  scenery  in  the  world.  Messrs.  Cornwall  and 
Walton,  of  Alexandria  Bay,  with  their  usual  display 
of  sense  and  sagacity,  as  well  as  business  tact,  for 
which  they  have  always  been  commended,  offered  to 
give  the  best  site  on  the  St  Lawrence  to  any  man 
who  would  erect  upon  it  a  first-class  summer  hotel. 
Mr.  O.  G.  Staples,  of  Watertown,  N.  Y.,  hearing  of 
this  offer  came,  he  saw,  and  how  he  conquered  you 
shall  know  as  we  proceed  with  our  narrative.  Well, 
he  concluded  to  father  the  scheme.  Securing  a  man 
with  money,  a  Mr.  Nott,  of  Syracuse,  the  ground,  or 
rock  rather,  was  broken  January  14th,  1873,  and  the 
Thousand  Island  House  was  completed  and  opened 
July  17th,  1873,  just  six  months  from  the  day  of 
starting.  Rumor  says  that  although  their  money  gave 
out  a  little  above  the  first  story.  Staples'  indomitable 
will  saw  it  completed  and  furnished,  ready  to  receive 
guests,  just  as  soon  and  as  well  as  if  he  had  been 
a  millionaire.  During  the  next  two  years  of  the  part- 
nership of  Staples  and  Nott,  everything  did  not  go 
as  smooth  as  a  marriage  bell,  but  still  they  went,  and 
in  the  end  Staples  had  the  money  and  hotel.  (I  hope 
the  reader,  if  he  knows  Staples,  will  not  be  so  unkind 
as  to  accuse  him  of  parting  with  all  his  experience 
and  make  the  pun  that  he  look  the  money  and  Nott 


1      i; 


i 


36 

the  experience).  Stapl^  bought  out  Nott,  and,  I 
believe  paid  him  what  was  agreed,  and  he  run  the  hotel 
until  April  15th,  1883,  when  Mr.  R.  H.  Southgate  (the 
man  of  many  hotels,  too  numerous  to  mention  here) 
bought  him  out.  The  many  changes  that  have  been 
made,  and  those  contemplated,  when  completed,  will 
make  this  the  Mecca  of  summer  resort  watering-places, 
the  Venice  of  America.  I  desire  to  say  right  here  that 
I  hope  Mr.  Southgate  will  not  lose  sight  of  what  has  in 
the  past  made  the  Bay  popular  as  a  resort.  I  like  to 
see  the  standard  of  visitors  rai.sed  as  well  as  prices.  I 
would  like  it  to  be  the  place  for  fish  as  well  as  those 
who  love  the  piscatorial  art.  No  dust,  no  dampnesb, 
no  malaria  or  hay  fever,  no  musquitoes  ;  light,  dry  air, 
cool  and  bracing.  Thermometer  never  over  80  or  below 
50  in  July  or  August,  and  one  can  enjoy  what  is  denied 
them  almost  everywhere  else,  a  good  nine  hours  of 
cool  refreshing  sleep  under  a  blanket.  Those  troubled 
with  pulmonary  complaints  will  find  great  relief  here. 
Steamers,  steam  yachts  and  sailing  vessels  abound, 
everything  to  animate  the  scene  and  enhance  the  pleas- 
ure of  visitors  is  done.  Fishing,  fishing  boats,  bathing, 
etc.,  as  well  as  fish  abound,  and  we  say  here,  if  you  have 
never  been  to  the  Bay,  come. 

MY  VISIT  TO  THE  STATE  FISH 

HATCHERY  AT  MUMFORD, 

NEW  YORK. 

Mr.  Monroe  A.  Green,  the  superintendent  of  the  State 
Fish  Hatchery,  gave  me  a  very  kind  invitation  to  visit 
him  and  the  State  Hatchery,  at  the  opening  of  the 
season,  April  ist,  1890,  which  invitation  I  accepted  (the 


^■v    - 


37 

same  was  extended  for  this  year,  but  I  was  unable  to 
accept).  The  event  will  always  remain  Green  in  my 
memory  for  it  was  indeed  a  glorious  trip.  Mr.  Lapey, 
the  Assistant  General  Passenger  Agent  of  the  Buffalo, 
Rochester  &  Pittsburgh  Railway,  issued  transportation 
for  myself  and*  stenographer  over  his  road  from 
Rochester  to  Mumford  and  return.  While  on  my  way 
to  the  depot  on  the  morning  of  my  departure,  I  was 
greeted  by  a  friend  who  inquired  as  to  where  I  was 
going  so  early  in  the  morning.  I  informed  him  that  I 
was  about  to  visit  the  tish  hatchery  at  Mumford.  He 
then,  with  premeditation  and  malice  aforethought,  asked 
me  if  I  was  going  to  spawn.  I  replied,  "  No,  but  to  see 
them  manufacture  hsh."  Arriving  at  the  depot  at 
7  o'clock  and  30  minutes,  we  boarded  the  train  and 
started.  A  friend  invited  me  to  sit  in  the  smoker  ;  but 
as.  I  had  just  received  my  morning  rations,  and  knowing 
that  the  fumes  of  the  smoking  car  would  have  the 
tendency  to  force  me  to  relinquish  my  grip  on  that 
meal,  I  declined  his  invitation  and  seated  myself  in  the 
ladies'  car.  Arriving  at  Mumford  we  were  met  by  a 
messenger  and  driven  to  the  celebrated  hatchery.  Upon 
entering  the  main  building  we  were  received  by  Super- 
intendent Green  and  his  son  Frank.  We  also  met  the 
following  gentlemen  who  were  on  hand  to  try  their  luck 
in  capturing  the  finny  tribe  ;  Mr.  Wm.  S.  Kimball,  Dr. 
Hurd,  Mr.  Samuel  Wilder,  Mr.  C.  C.  Morse,  Mr.  Thomas 
Harris,  of  Rochester,  and  Mr.  R.  S.  Coleman,  of  Sandy 
Hill,  Washington  Co.,  N.  Y.  The  above  named  gentle- 
men were  equipped  with  the  necessary  credentials  and 
started  out.  Mr.  Wilder  was  the  champion  of  the  day's 
fishing,  having  caught  at  least  fifty  good  sized  speckled 
trout.    But  if  his  friend  "  Bowman  "  had  been  there 


31 


he  would  have  doubled  the  number.  Myself  and 
stenographer  remained  at  the  large  hatchery  to  receive 
information  regarding  the  manufacture  of  fish.  Super- 
intendent Green  has  been  interested  in  fish  hatching  23 
years  and  has  the  last  few  years  hatched  ten  million  fry 
per  year,  which  are  sent  to  nearly  every  county  in  the 
.  state.  Ninety-five  per  cent  of  the  fish  that  are  hatched 
under  his  supervision  live.  The  largest  number  of  fish 
are  hatched  during  the  months  of  November  and 
December.  The  Salmon  Trout  seem  to  be  in  the 
greatest  demand,  although  German  Trout  are  becoming 
very  popular.  Mr.  Green  has  raised  six  hundred  thou- 
sand German  Trout  since  receiving  forty  thousand  eggs 
six  years  ago.  There  are  five  districts  in  the  state  all 
supplied  from  the  Mumford  hatchery.  It  requires  from 
two  hundred  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  of  hashed 
liver  to  feed  the  fish  daily.  While  we  were  receiving 
the  above  information  a  large  gong  sounded,  which 
denoted  the  fact  that  Assistant  Walzer  had  prepared  a 
6ne  spread  in  an  adjoining  building.  Seating  ourselves 
at  the  table  the  fleshy  man  was  requested  to  ask  a 
blessing.  He  replied  that  the  best  he  could  do  would 
be  to  recite  the  dude's  blessing,  which  he  did  (a  copy  of 
which  will  be  mailed  to  any  one  on  receipt  of  a  two 
cent  stamp),  and  the  party  with  a  good  will  as  well  as  a 
good  appetite,  did  the  subject  ample  justice.  The  next 
excitement  was  the  catching  of  a  two  pound  California 
Trout  by  the  tail,  and  landing  the  same  in  26  minutes, 
which  act  was  accomplished  by  the  short  hand  man  with 
an  8  oz.  rod.  Thermometer,  4  degrees  below  freezo ; 
pulse,  iTf?  ;  eyesight  good.  \ 


r 


39 
THE  LARGE  GATHERINGS. 

Round  Island  Park,  Thousand  Island  Park  and 
Alexandria  Bay  Have,  at  different  times,  been  honored 
by  conventions,  meetings  of  associations  in  convention, 
pilgrimages,  etc.,  a  minute  description  of  which  would 
fill  a  volume  ten  times  the  size  of  this  one,  so  I  can  only 
mention  what  is  uppermost  in  my  mind,  the  Press  Asso- 
ciation of  Vermont,  under  the  guidance  of  S.  W.  Cum- 
mings,  Esq.,  the  general  passenger  agent  of  the  Central 
Vermont  Railroad.  He  and  his  associate,  Mr.  T.  H. 
Hanley,  made  for  them  an  ever  to  be  remembered 
excursion  trip.  The  Librarians  of  America  stayed  in 
the  midst  of  the  Thousand  Islands  three  or  four  days. 
They  were,  without  exaggeration,  the  most  refined  and 
educated  bodv  of  men  and  women  that  I  ever  met. 
The  Brooklyn  Tabernacle,  with  its  thousand  pilgrims 
were  also  delighted  with  everything  they  saw  at  the 
Thousand  Islands,  and  were  profuse  in  their  expressions 
of  its  scenic  beauty.  I  met  the  Rev.  Dr.  Talmage  and 
had  a  personal  interview.  I  don't  wonder  now  that  his 
magnetism  holds  such  sway  with  his  Brooklyn  audience,, 
and  that  the  whole  world  receives  so  cheerfully  through 
the  telegraph  his  sermons. 

THEY  DO  IT  EVERY  TIME. 


r 


y 


When  the  average  American's  postage  stamp  does 
not  stick  he  storms  around  and  makes  the  air  fairly  blue 
until  he  secures  the  mucilage  bottle  and  fixes  the  stamp 
to  his  letter.  Not  so  with  the  average  Canadian.  He 
procures  a  needle  and  thread,  sits  quietly  down  and  sews 
the  darned  thing  on. 


40 

THE   HUMORISTS  OF  AMERICA. 

Most  of  these  jovial,  good-natured  souls  have,  at 
some  time  or  other,  paid  the-Thousand  Islands  and  the 
St.  Lawrence  River  a  visit,  but  it  would  be  useless  for 
me  to  try  and  remember  each  and  every  one  of  them, 
and  their  peculiarities.  I  cheerfully  remember  Mark 
Twain  (Samuel  L.  Clemens,  Esq.),  and  one  of  the  fun- 
niest stories  I  tell  was  of  an  evening  spent  at  Toronto, 
while  a  guest  of  a  friend,  and  the  little  speech  that  he 
made  introducing  Senator  Hawley,  who  was  to  make  a 
political  address  at  Elmira^  N.  Y.  He  was  a  passenger 
down  the  river.  After  naming  over  several  towns  and 
streets  in  the  Province  of  Quebec,  he  remarked:  "  Are 
they  all  saints  here  ;  no  sinners  ?" 


SALISBURY 

of  the  Fall  River  Advance^  going  down  the  St.  Lawrence, 
as  a  passenger,  and  his  written  description  of  the  trip, 
is  the  most  humorous  that  I  have  had  the  pleasure  of 
perusing.  ^^Bob  "  Burdette's  of  the  Burlington  Hawkeye^ 
description  of  the  Victoria  Bridge  is  very  funny.  Knox, 
of  the  Texas  Sif tings,  went  down  on  the  opposition  line, 
so  did  not  have  a  chance  to  meet  him.  Eli  Perkins  you 
cheerfully  remember,  and  I  have  given  a  very  definite 
description  of  an  interview,  in  another  part  of  this  work. 


A, 


REPRESENTATIVE  MEN 

of  New  York,  New  Orleans,  Rochester,  Buffalo,  Pitts- 
burgh, Cleveland  and  Chicago,  respectively  w'lo  occupy 
cottages,  etc.,  at  the  Thousand  Islands  during  ■  the  sum- 
mer, should  be  mentioned  here,  but  space  alone  pre- 
vents.    Thig  little  volume  is  published  expressly  for 


A. 


Tourists  who  travel,  and  if  it  becomes  large,  burden- 
some or  cumbersome,  it  is  useless  for  what  it  is  designed, 
as  a  descriptive  book  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River.  I 
therefore  cannot  lose  sight  of  this  fact,  and  must  con- 
tent myself  with  publishing  a  book  that  will  contain 
about  1 80  or  200  pages. 

H.  H.  Warner,  of  Rochester,  N.  Y. ;  Cleorge  M.  Pull- 
man, Chicago  ;  N.  H.  Hunt,  of  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. ;  Royal 
H.  Pullman,  Baltimore,  Md ;  C.  B.  Marsh,  Chicago, 
111.;  Judge  Donahue,  New  York  ;  Rev.  W.  Dempster 
Chase,  New  York  ;  H.  C.  Wilber,  Pres.  Lehigh  Valley 
R.  R.;  Rev.  Dr.  Saxe,  Rochester,  N.  Y.;  Fred  W.  Haw- 
ley,  Rochester,  N.  Y.;  C.  H.  &  W.  B.  Hayden,  of  Colum- 
bus, O.;  Judge  Spencer,  New  York  ;  W.  J.  Lewis,  H.  A. 
Laughlin,  G.  T.  Rafferty,  J.  S.  Laney,  of  Pittsburgh ; 
J.  C.  Covert,  the  present  Mayor  Rose  and  Mr.  J.  M. 
Curtis,  of  Cleveland,  Ohio ;  Judge  La  Batte,  New 
Orleans ;  C.  J.  Henderson,  of  New  York  ;  Judge  Thomas 
Troy,  of  Brooklyn  ;  Hon.  R.  A.  Livingston,  N.  Y.;  M. 
B.  Bettman,  of  New  York  ;  John  Lowery,  of  New  York; 
E.  &  T.  H.  Anthony,  Mr.  J.  W.  White,  of  White  Plains; 
H.  R.  Clark  and  family,  of  Jersey  City  ;  Royal  E. 
Deane,  of  New  York  ;  last  Init  not  least,  my  solid  friend, 
Col.  T.  G.  Carnes,  of  Gainsville,  Texas,  a  man  after  my 
own  heart  and  weight  as  well.  He  says  he  enjoys  him- 
self more  at  Alexandria  Bay,  and  can  keep  his  three 
hundred  and  ten  pounds  cooler,  than  at  any  other  resort 
in  America,  and  when  you  are  about  to  select  a  summer 
home  think  of  me  and  my  three  hundred  and  thirty- 
three  pounds,  and  after  passing  eighteen  years  on  the 
St.  Lawrence,  I  have  not  seen  over  two  days  in  any 
summer  that  would  cause  me,  through  heat,  to  change 
my  summer  home. 


Trr. 


42 

THE  PEOPLE  WE  MEET  AT  THE 
THOUSAND  ISLANDS. 

Visitors  going  to  the  the  Thousand  Islands  will  strike 
the  river  either  at  Kingston,  Cape  Vincent,  Gananoqua 
or  Clayton.  The  first  of  the  summer  resorts  after 
leaving  Clayton,  is  Round  Island,  which  is  occupied  by 
the  Baptists.  The  Hotel  has  been  enlarged,  refitted  and 
refurni&hed  and  the  name  changed  to  Hotel  Frontenac, 
under  the  management  of  Mr.  Almy  of  New  York,  a 
hotel  man  of  note  and  ability,  but  the  denominational 
sectarian  barriers  have  been  removed  the  same  as  at 
each  of  the  other  resorts,  and  all  Christians,  of  what- 
ever sect,  or  no  sect,  are  welcome.  Even  the  dude  can 
revel  in  his  peculiarity.  The  next  point  is  Grennell's 
Island  Park  where  is  located  a  very  nice  hotel  and  a 
number  of  fine  cottages.  Beyond  is  Thousand  Island 
Park.  This  is  occupied  by  the  Methodists,  and  they 
welcome  everyone,  except  on  Sundays,  when  no  persons 
are  allowed  to  land  on  the  island. 

The  Fine  View  House,  Central  Park  and  Edgewood 
Park  have  no  religious  proclivities  known  to  me,  but 
**  Solomon  Isaacs  "  would  aot  be  admitted  at  Edgewood 
Park  unless  he  would  swear  that  he  was  a  "Quaker.'' 

Westmister  Park  was  founded  by  the  Presbyterians, 
and  is  occupied  by  them  and  their  friends.  Summer- 
land  by  the  Universalists  and  their  friends. 

Alexandria  Bay  is  cosmopolitan,  where  everybody  is 
welcome  and  can  stay  as  long  as  they  behave  them- 
selves and  pay  their  board. 

Now,  dear  reader,  imagine  the  Baptists,  Methodists, 
Presbyterians,  Universalists  and  all  their  friends  com- 
bined, and  now  if  you  want  a  summer  of  pleasure  with" 


43 

out  any  baneful  influences,  you  wouldn't  miss  it  in 
securing  the  Thousand  Islands  for  your  slimmer  home^ 
where  there  ?^e  no  bad  people  whatever,  such  as  drunk- 
ards, loafers,  tramps,  people  of  bad  repute,  male  or 
female,  and  if  they  should  drift  in  they  would  receive 
a  cool  reception  among  the  people  of  the  Thousand 
Islands.  It  would  not  require  a  Pinkerton  or  any  other 
detective  to  select  from  among  those  Christian  people 
or  their  friends  any  bad  character,  but  they  come, 
nevertheless,  though  their  stay  is  short. 

CREDIT    TO    WHOM    CREDIT    IS    DUE. 


While  we  have  spoken  very  pleasantly  of  the  episode 
of  H.  H.  Warner  and  George  M.  Pullman  ;  of  their 
returning  to  their  respective  islands  and  expending 
nearly  half  a  million  dollars  in  beautifying  them,  after 

iy^  wandering  from  one  end  of  the  world  almost  to  the 
other  in  search  of  comfort,  proving  conclusively  that 
we  have  the  finest  watering  place  in  America  or  we 
could  not  retain  such  men  as  these,  I  must  say  a  few 
words  in  justice  to  those  who  remained  with  us  during 
their  absence  ;  who  bore  the  burden  and  heat  of  tlie  day 
and  lavishly  spent  their  money  in  fitting  up  their  islands 
to  make  the  Thousand  Islands  what  they  now  are. 
Among  those  people  I  will  mention  A.  B.  Pullman, 
C.  B.  Marsh,  N.  H.  Hunt  of  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  H.  R.  Heath, 
Royal  E.  Dean,  E.  W.  Dewey,  C.  H.  and  W.  B.  Hay- 
den,  J.  H.  Oliphant,  A.  C.  Beckwith,  A.  E.  Clark,  H.  A. 
Laughlin,  C.  E.  Hill,  Hon.  W.  G.  Rose,  Mayor  of  Cleve- 

^      land,  O.,  J.  M.  Curtis  and  a  host  of  others. 


■^*- 


44 
THE   WHY  NOT  1 

I  am  asked  almost  every  day  why  the  Canadians  do 
not  occupy  the  Islands  in  their  channel  of  the  river  the 
same  as  the  Americans  do.  The  only  answer  I  can  give 
is,  that  the  American  comes  here  to  rough  it,  fish  and 
enjoy  himself  during  the  summer  vacation,  and  the 
Canadians  have  it  rough  enough  the  year  round,  so  do 
not  have  to  come. 

BOYS  ON  A  STEAMER. 

Here  is  a  genuine.  His  parents  are  with  him ;  he 
cannot  keep  still ;  he  wants  chiefly  to  break  his  neck  or 
fall  overboard,  or  to  get  crushed  by  the  walking-beam  ; 
he  has  been  twice  dragged  from  the  steps  leading  to  the 
walking-beam  used  by  the  assistant  engineer  for  lubri- 
cating purposes ;  he  would  like  to  get  in  the  paddle 
boxes,  has  talked  every  officer  on  board  to  death,  aad  is 
now  trying  his  best  to  worry  the  deck  hands.  How 
curiously  constructed  is  a  real  boy,  to  go  whither  he 
should  not,  and  especially  where  his  anxious  mother 
most  fears  he  wil)  go  ;  he  is  now  doing  his  best  to  spoil 
his  parent's  trip.  We  can  leave  him  for  a  moment  ;  he 
won't  flag  in  fiis  endeavor  to  get  into  trouble  or  to  make 
his  parents  miserable. 

This  is  a  smaller  boy — not  yet  out  of  his  petticoats, 
but  very  active  ;  he,  too,  has  with  him  an  anxious 
mother ;  he  has  found  another  boy — a  strange  boy,  of 
the  same  size  and  sex  ;  they  have  become  acquainted  ; 
the  strange  boy  is  allowed  by  his  parents  to  roam  about 
the  boat  at  will ;  he  invites  the  nice  little  boy  to  roam 
also  ;  he  wants  him  to  roam  as  near  the  walking-beam 
as  possible  ;  he  has  roamed  there  before  himself  and 


•'**% 


A- 


4S 

escaped  ;  he  tells  the  nice  little  boy  how  cunning  it  is  to 
come  near  being  crushed  ;  the  nice  little  boy's  mother 
forbids  any  roaming  at  all  ;  she  looks  with  disfavor  on 
the  strange  boy ;  but  the  strange  boy  continues  to  hang 
around  ;  he  knows,  so  does  the  nice  boy,  together  they 
can  fool  any  one  mother  ;  united  they  stand,  divided 
they  fall  ;  now  the  nice  boy  edges  away  from  the  side 
of  his  mother,  for  her  energies  are  momentarily  con- 
centrated on  the  set  of  her  bonnet  and  the  nice  looking 
gentleman  at  the  other  end  of  the  saloon,  who  is  taking 
side  glances  at  her  through  the  mirror.  Now  the  nice 
boy  gets  farther  away  ;  they  are  on  a  forbidden  part  of 
the  deck  near  the  walking-beam.  It  is  great  fun.  Now 
the  cross  man  who  keeps  order  on  the  deck  drives  them 
away.  They  go  to  the  News  agent's  stand  and  help 
themselves  to  anything  on  the  table  when  he  is  not 
looking.  They  are  now  running  in  and  out  the  state 
rooms,  where  the  passengers  have  gone  to  take  a  little 
rest,  getting  in  everybody's  way  ;  it  is  a  wonder  they 
hav.en't  been  killed  twenty  times.  It  is  great  fun  for  the 
boys,  but  almost  death  to  the  passengers.  And  the 
mother  is  still  so  occupied  with  her  bonnet  and  the 
dude  who  has  made  a  mash  or  favorable  impression 
upon  her  that  she  has  not  missed  her  nice  little  bov. 


SIR  JOHN  A.  Mcdonald, 

who  is  Canada's  prime  minister,  has  been  a  passenger 
upon  the  boats,  two  and  three  times  during  each  season, 
until  his  face  became  a  very  familiar  one  to  me,  and  I 
must  say  that  it  is  as  jolly  looking  as  my  own,  and 
about  as  expressive ;  while  his  is  a  Roman  nose  mine 
is  a  pug.  I  remember  his  first  trip  down,  after  his 
election  to  the  premiership,  and   my  saying  to   him : 


46 

"  Now  we  ha. 2  a  change  in  politics  and  in  government, 
I  shall  expect  of  course,  a  position  under  the  new  gov- 
ernment." Sir  John  A.  remarked  :  "  Yes,  you  shall 
have  it.  I  shall  make  a  change.  We  will  have  the 
rivers  run  the  other  way  so  you  can  be  utilized  day  and 
night  to  make  it  pleasant  for  the  people  without  extra 
pay  or  allowance."  When  giving  my  description  of 
Barnhart's  Island  and  the  Canadian  Channel  passing 
around,  the  settlement  of  the  treaty  of  i8i 2,  and  the 
ratification  of  the  same  by  Lord  Ashburton  and  Daniel 
Webster,  he  asked  me  If  those  were  facts  and  I  said, 
"  Yes,  and  I  am  astonished  to  think  that  you  would  have 
to  ask  me  about  such  an  important  point  and  treaty." 
When  nearing  Montreal  I  had  finished  giving  a  descrip- 
tion of  places  and  points  of  interest,  and  had  described 
Bonsecours  market  when  he  told  me  that  an  Irish  friend 
of  his  pronounced  it  different,  he  called  it  "  Bone  Scow- 
ered  market." 

WHAT  I  TOOK  HEED  OF. 

Having  been  away  from  my  native  city,  Rochester, 
for  at  least  a  year  and  a  half,  crossing  the  continent 
from  the  rock  bound  coast  of  Maine  to  the  jumping  off 
place  in  Florida,  visiting  nearly  every  city  in  this  coun- 
try, when  I  returned  home  I  met  my  venerable  pastor 
and  beloved  friend,  the  Rev.  Dr.  J.  B.  Shaw. 

This  gentleman  always  took  a  good  deal  of  interest  in 
my  personal  welfare  and  would  warmly  shake  me  by  the 
hand  whenever  we  would  meet.  He  would  interrogate 
me  as  to  my  prosperity  and  adversity  On  this 
particular  occasion  he  asked  me  where  I  had  been,-  and 
after  answering  his  questions  to  his  entire  satisfaction 
he  noticed  prominent  upon  my  expansive  shirt  front  my 


»> 


^ 


47 

pin.  After  looking  at  it  a  moment  he  said,  ''  Mr.  Bab- 
bage,  is  that  a  diamond  ?"  I  replied  in  the  affirmative. 
He  remarked,  "  of  the  first  water  ?"  I  replied,  "  yes, 
boiled  in  oil."  He  said,  *'  that  must  represent  a  small 
house  and  lot."  I  said,  "yes,  sir,  very  nearly."  He 
said,  "  why  don't  you  sell  that  and  give  ^he  money  to 
the  poor  ?"  In  answer  I  remarked,  "  while  I  wear  it  at 
your  suggestion,  I  may  part  with  it  if  you  desire  to  have 
me."  He  said, "  did  I  ever  tell  you  to  wear  a  diamond  ?" 
"  No,  not  exactly  ;  but  in  a  sermoii  you  preached  one 
Sunday  you  remarked  that  some  of  your  friends  had 
bright  spots  about  them,  others  had  none ;  some  the 
only  one  you  could  discover  was  a  diamond  they 
wore  in  their  shirt  front,  so  I  went  home  and  looked 
myself  over  in  vain  to  find  that  bright  spot, 
so  I  purchased  this  one.  Does  it  fit  me  ? "  Laugh- 
ingly he  said,  "do  you  treasure  up  everything  that 
I  say  as  faithfully  as  you  did  this  ? "  I  replied  that 
I  hoped  that  I  did.  He  asked  me  if  I  was  going  to 
publish  an  edition  of  my  book  this  year.  I  told  him 
that  I  was  about  to  issue  another  edition  and  that  I  had 
a  copy  of  la^  year's  book  with  me.  I  asked  him  if  he 
would  kindly  accept  a  copy  and  read  it,  and  to  give  me 
his  opinion  of  it  the  next  time  I  met  him.  He  replied 
that  he  would.  In  about  three  weeks  I  met  him  and 
asked  for  his  opinion.  He  smiled  and  remarked  that  it 
was  a  very,  very  funny  book. 


'*GOING  THAT  WAY." 

Captain  Sinclair,  of  the  steamer  "Passport,"  was  in 
a  fog  early  one  morning  just  before  leaving  Kingston 
and  one  of  the  passengers  remarked  to  him  that  it  was 


48 

clear  above,  to  which  the  captain  answered,  "Yes,  but 
unless  we  have  a  blow-up  we  will  not  go  that  way." 

A  GOOD  ONE  ON  CAPTAIN  ESTES. 

Everyone  familiar  with  the  St.  Lawrence  River  will 
surely  recognize  the  name  of  Estes,  as  it  is  one  that 
has  been  connected  with  the  River  for  the  past  forty 
years.  Some  one  of  the  Utica,  N.  Y.,  daily  papers 
mentioned  Captain  Estes  of  the  steamer  "St.  Law- 
rence" as  a  man  extremely  polite  and  scrupulously 
neat  in  his  dress,  and  very  attentive  to  those  who  are 
passengers  on  his  boat;  a  man  who  does  not  chew, 
smoke  or  drink,  nor  tell  fish  stories.  A.n  old  gentle- 
man, accompanied  by  his  wife  and  daughter,  having 
heard  of  the  captain's  reputation,  remarked  that  he 
would  like  to  introduce  him  to  his  daughter.  The 
gallant  captain,  who  looks  very  young  for  his  age, 
answered,  "No,  thanks,  I  am  a  married  man." 

THE  PHARMACEUTICAL  ASSOCIATION 

of  the  State  of  New  York  held  their  annual  conven- 
tion at  the  Thousand  Islands  two  years  ago,  and  when 
they  made  their  excursion  on  the  "Islai\d  Wanderer" 
around  the  islands  I  accompanied  them  and  delineated 
the  points  of  interest  on  the  trip.  Just  before  arriving 
at  Central  Park  they  noticed  the  large  twelve-foot 
letters  "C.  P."  which  are  used  for  illuminating  posts  at 
night,  there  being  hung  upon  the  letters  one  hundred 
lanterns.  Some  one  asked  what  the  "C.  P."  stood  for* 
I  ansv/ered,  "Central  Park,"  when  one  of  the  members, 
the  president's  wife,  I  think,  answered  "C.  P."  means 
chemically  pure.  I  never  knew  it  to  mean  anything 
else  but  that."  This  biographical  incident  is  intended 
for  druggists  only. 


,   r^^ 


but 


will 
that 
forty 
tapers 
Law- 
lously 
lO  are 
chew, 
rentle- 
laving 
lat  he 
The 
s  age, 


^' 


49 
APING  CUSTOMS,    MANNERS,   ETC  OF 

THE  ENGLISH. 

This  is  done  to  a  great  extent,  not  only  in  Canada 
but  I  am  sorry  to  say  in  Free  America,  better  known 
as  U.  S.  I  cannot  find  any  fault  with  the  average 
Canadian,  who  is,  as  it  were  governed  by  Queen 
Victoria,  and  must  hav6  some  reverence  for  royalty, 
in  the  aping  of  their  manners  and  customs,  but  in 
this  land,  where  we  have  an  abundance  of  Queens, 
Princes,  Lords  and  Sovereigns  who  are  not  flattered  by 
titles,  but  bear  their  honors  meekly,  gll  are  royal  born 
and  bred.  Speaking  of  titles  reminds  me  that  at  home 
lam  plain  Edward  F.  Babbage,  or  'That  Boy"  (I  spell 
it  with  "Ph"  because  it  does  not  sound  so  greasy),  but 
the  moment  I  leave  home,  say  for  a  trip  through  the 
South,  I  am  called  captain  for  the  first  few  hundred 
miles,  then  a  little  way  on  it  becomes  Colonel,  and  when 
I  get  to  Georgia  it  is  Major  ;  South  Carolina  it  is  Judge 
or  General,  until  I  get  to  Florida,  and  I  have  heard 
them  say  there,  "  Great  God,  is  that  you  ?"  But  we 
diverge.  Returning  to  the  aping  of  the  manners  of 
Princess  Louise,  I  wish  to  say  right  here  that  I  firmly 
believe  that  it  did  the  Canadian  people  a  great  amount 
of  good,  but  fail  to  see  where  the  people  of  the  United 
States  could  be  benefited,  I  was  told  that  at  Kingston 
the  Princess  asked  for  her  strawberries  in  a  box  with  the 
hulls  on,  and  when  placed  before  her  she  took  them  up 
by  the  stem  between  the  thumb  and  finger,  bit  the  berry 
off  and  placed  the  hull  on  the  plate.  Now  everybody 
does  the  same ;  previous  to  her  visit  they  used  to  hull 
and  wash  them  before  placing  them  on  the  table.  The 
same  with  grapes.     They  used  to  wash  them  in  a  goblet 


ii 


50 

of  water  at  the  table  before  eating  them  ;  now  they  take 
the  grape  between  the  thumb  and  finger,  press  it  to  the 
lips  and  squeeze  gently,  and  juice  as  well  as  insides  are 
soon  on  the  way  to  digestion,  and  the  skin  laid  away  on 
the  plate  as  the  Princess  did.  Asparagus — it  is  almost 
painful  for  me  to  see  Canadians  eat  in  as  many  ways  as 
there  were  people  at  the  table,  in  fact,  no  two  ate  it 
alike  until  after  the  Princess  came  ;  now  everybody 
takes  it  by  the  hard  green  end,  between  thumb  and 
finger,  and  putting  it  into  the  mouth,  close  the  teeth 
down  upon  it  and  draw  it  gently  from  the  mouth, 
leaving  all  that  is  digestible  within,  and  the  remainder 
is  laid  on  the  plate.  The  Princess  once  took  a  walk 
through  her  kitchen  at  Rideau  Hall,  Ottawa,  took  the 
vegetable  cook  to  task  for  washing  fresh  picked  peas 
from  the  vine  that  had  just  been  shelled,  saying  it  was 
nonsense,  if  your  hands  are  clean,  to  wash  a  virgin  pea. 

WE   CALL  THEM  TRAMPS. 

Ijiiring  the  Centennial  year  many  foreigners  were 
always  found  among  the  list  of  passengers  from  c  ery 
country.  The  proverbial  English  tourist  cannot  be 
mistaken  by  any,  but  this  year,  1876,  we  had  many  who 
were  too  green  or  unsophisticated  to  be  in  that  class. 
Now  this  truthful  occurrence  which  I  am  about  to  relate 
is  original,  and  occurred  upon  one  of  the  Richelieu  & 
Ontario  Navigation  Company's  line  of  boats.  The 
Englishman  was  relating  to  his  newly  found  friend  his 
opinion  of  the  United  States,  etc.,  in  his  own  peculiar 
style.  "  Hi  don't  like  this  blarsted  country,  you  know!" 
"  Why,"  said  his  friend,  "  what  fault  can  you  find  with 
America?"  "  Oh,  Hi've  been  all  over  it,  you  knovjr,  and 
can't   find   any   sawciety   there."     "  Society,"   said   his 


r 


i  1 


■    51 

friend,  "  what  do  you  mean  by  society  ?"  •*  Oh,  dear 
me,  you  have  no  gentlemen  or  gentlemen's  sons  in 
h'America."  "Why,  what  do  you  mean  by  gentlemen 
and  gentlemen's  sons  ?"  "  Oh,  Hi  mean  gentlemen 
who  never  did  any  work,  you  know,  nor  their  sons, 
either."  "  You  make  a  mistake  there,  my  worthy  friend, 
we  have  millions  of  them  here,  but  we  call  them  tramps, 
and  I  have  often  thought  it  the  best  definition  to  a 
tramp  I  ever  heard,  for  if  there  are  gentlemen  and  their 
sons  here  who  never  did  any  work  they  will  soon  make 
good  timber  for  tramps,  if  they  are  not  already." 


"NOT   A  GEORGE   WASH." 

He  had  told  several  very  improbable  stories  border- 
ing on  the  Eli  Perkins  order,  and  then  remarked  to  a 
friend  that  he  could  not  tell  a  lie.  But  the  friend 
replied  that  he  could  the  moment  he  heard  it,  and  to 
the  best  of  his  judgment  he  had  told  several. 

ROUTE   OF   THE    STEAMER   **  NEW 
ISLAND  WANDERER." 

The  dock  from  which  the  "  New  Island  Wanderer  " 
leaves  for  her  daily  excursions  around  the  Islands,  morn- 
ing at  8,  afternoons  at  2.15,  is  in  front  of  Cornwall 
Brothers'  Stone  Store,  where  tickets  and  all  information 
may  be  had  relative  to  any  route  by  either  rail  or  boat,  to 
any  part  of  the  globe.  Taking  your  position  upon  any 
part  of  the  boat  that  will  allow  you  to  face  the  bow, 
upon  your  right  will  be  Hart's  Island,  Westminster  Park, 
Dock  and  Freight  House,  which  is  located  at  the  lower 
end  of  Well's  Island — this  island  ten  miles  long  by  four 
wide.    A  little  above,  hid  by  a  cluster  ,of  trees,  is  the 


52 


residence  of  John  Winslow,  next  is  Imperial  Isle,  owned 
by  G.  T.  Rafferty,  Chicago,  111.  The  next  is  Linlithgow, 
owned  by  Hon.  R.  A.  Livingston,  New  York.  The  next 
cottage  on  bluff  is  owned  by  Miss  Lucy  J.  Bullock — 
the  cottage  a  little  above  is  owned  by  Prof.  A.  G. 
Hopkins.  Next  is  Florence  Island.  Near  the  water 
edge  is  the  boat  house  of  St.  Elmo,  and  the  con- 
spicuous slate-colored  cottage  above  and  w. ad-mill 
below,  is  owned  by  Mr.  N.  H.  Hunt,  of  Brooklyn, 
N.  Y.  It  is  presumed  you  have  ^aken  in  the  above 
panorama  before  starting.  Immediately  after  starting, 
on  the  left,  you  pass  the  Thousand  Island  House 
and  Little  Staples  Island — around  the  point  is  Otter 
Creek,  Edgewood  Park  and  Martin's  Cottage.  The 
Edgewood  Park  Company  have  erected  an  elegant 
hotjel  and  several  cottages  are  being  built  by  the 
members  of  the  company,  who  form  a  sort  of  social 
club  for  their  families  and  friends,  care  being  exercised 
in  the  selection  of  members  as  well  as  visitors,  and 
if  the  project  is  carried  out,  as  it  is  contemplated, 
this  Edgewood  Park  will  be  the  summer  home 
of  some  of  the  best  people  in  America.  On  the  right 
is  Friendly  Island,  containing  cottage,  boat  house  and 
lookout,  owned  by  E.  W.  Dewey,  of  New  York. 
Next  above  is  Nobby  Island,  owned  by  H.  R.  Heath, 
of  New  York.  Opposite,  on  the  left,  is  Cherry 
Island  (the  reason  they  call  it  *'  Cherry "  is  because 
they  raise  their  own  strawberries  from  which  they  make 
their  celebrated  custard  pies).  The  Island  contains 
Ingleside  cottage  and  Melrose  lodge,  owned  by  Mr.  A. 
B.  Pullman  and  C.  B.  Marsh,  of  Chicago,  111., 
also  J.  T.  Easton's  Villa,  called  Stuyvesant  Cottage, 
and  Rev.  George  Rockwell's  cottage.      Opposite  on  the 


r 


53 


r 


the 


right,  is  the  famous  Pullman  Island,  "Castle  Rest." 
where  George  M.  Pullman  spent  one  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  dollars  on  buildings,  etc.,  and  presented  the 
whole  Island  and  surroundings  to  his  mother  on  her 
eighty-fourth  birthday.  Also  where  Gen.  U.  S.  Grant 
visited  in  1872.  Next  beyond  on  bluff  is  "  The  Tov/ers," 
built  by  W.  C.  Browning,  of  Browning,  King  &  Co.,  New 
York.  Next  is  Safe  Point,  which  is  on  Wells'  Island* 
On  the  left  is  the  famous  Devil's  Rock  and  Oven  of 
historic  fame.  It  is  said  that  here  is  where  Bill  Johnson 
hid  himself,  as  there  is  an  opening  in  the  rock  large 
enough  for  the  usual  fishing  boat  to  enter  with  its  con- 
tents and  be  completely  hid  from  view.  This  is  what 
is  called  the  oven,  and  it  resembles  the  old  fcrm  of 
Dutch  ovens.  Beyond,  on  the  left  near  the  main  shore, 
is  Cuba,  owned'  by  W.  F.  Story  of  Buffalo,  N.  Y. 
Opposite,  on  the  right,  is  Craig's  Side,  owned  by  H.  H. 
Laughlin  of  Pittsburgh.  Next,  on  the  left,  is  Hill's 
Island  and  boat  house,  owned  by  C.  E.  Hill,  of  Chicago, 
111.  Next,  on  the  left,  is  Warner's  Island.  On  the 
right  is  Palisade  Point,  owned  by  A.  C.  Beckwith.  Next, 
on  the  left,  is  Comfort  Island,  owned  by  Mr.  A.  E.  Clark, 
of  the  Chicago  Stock  Exchange  Mr.  Clark  has  lavishly 
expended  a  large  amount  of  money  for  *•  Comfort."  It 
is  joined  to  Neh-Mahben,  meaning  twin  lakes  or  islands, 
owned  by  J,  H.  Oliphant,  of  New  York.  On  the  right 
is  Louisiana  Point,  owned  by  Judge  La  Batte,  of  New 
Orleans,  La.  I  desire  to  apologize  for  stating  in  a 
previous  edition  that  Judge  La  Batte  was  dead.  He 
came  to  death's  door,  and  was  so  low  that  his  physician 
had  called  his  family  to  his  bedside  to  witness  his  last 
moments,  when  he  motioned  to  his  son  to  come  near, 
and  drawing  his  ear  down  close  to  his  lips,  he  whispered. 


54 

"Take  me  to  my  summer  hoAie  on  the  St.  Lawrence." 
They  started  from  New  Orleans,  La.,  the  next  day  and 
he  arrived  at  Louisiana  Point  in  July,  and  the  day  of 
this  writing,  August  20th,  he  had  gained  sixteen  pounds 
in  flesh  and  was  feeling  quite  strong  and  happy — a  gen- 
tleman living  like  the  "  Thane  of  Cawdor."  Opposite, 
on  the  left,  is  Keppler  Point,  Luena  Vista  Lodge,  owned 
by  a  gentleman  from  Cleveland,  O.,  who  purchased  it 
last  season.  On  the  right  is  Seven  Isles,  owne^  by 
Gen.  Bradley  Winslow.  Mclntyre's  cottage  "  Photo," 
owned  by  H.  R.  Heath,  of  New  York,  is  in  Dinsmore 
Bay,  next  to  Seven  Isles.  On  the  left  is  an  Indian  Camp 
and  Allegheny  Point,  owned  by  '  S.  Laney,  of  Pitts- 
burgh, Pa.  A  little  above  is  Gypsy  Island,  owned  by 
J.  M.  Curtis,  of  Cleveland,  Ohio.  Rose  Island  is  con- 
nected with  Gypsie  Island  by  a  beautiful  rustic  bridge. 
Rose  Island  and  cottage  are  owned  by  W.  G.  Rose, 
Mayor  of  Cleveland,  O.  Opposite,  on  the  right,  is 
Shady  Covert,  a  beautiful  villa  owned  by  J.  C.  Covert, 
Editor  of  the  Cleveland  Leader.  On  the  right  is  Point 
Vivian,  a  delightful  spot  occupied  by  a  stock  company, 
mostly  from  Evan's  Mills,  N.  Y.  Opposite,  on  the  right, 
is  Island  Royal,  owned  by  Royal  E.  Deane,  of  New 
York.  Behind  Royal  is  Holton's  Cottage,  also  owned 
by  Royal  E.  Deane.  Above,  on  the  right,  is  Hill  Crest, 
owned  by  General  Shield's,  of  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Nothing  of  interest,  right  or  left,  for  the  space  of  a 
mile,  except  Lindner's  Island,  until  we  come  to  Central 
Park  (Woodbine  and  Crest  Co*:tages  are  located  here), 
where  we  make  our  first  stop  for  passengers.  The  next 
island  is  St.  Helena,  owned  by  Harrison  Stillman,  of 
Westmoreland,  N.  Y.  Here  is  a  faithful  representation 
of  the  tomb  of  Napoleon.     Bro;vn's  Bay  on  the  right 


r- 


y. 


55 

and  Swan's  Bay  on  the  left.  A  little  above  on  the  left 
is  Little  Calumet,  owned  by  J.  D.  Green,  of  Boston, 
Mass.  Above,  on  the  main  shore,  is  the  cottage  of 
J.  B.  Collins.  Opposite,  on  the  right,  may  be  seen  the 
celebrated  Limburger  Cheese  Factory.  Opposite,  on 
the  main  shore,  left,  is  the  farm  and  house  of  Captain 
Jack,  the  mill  and  dock  somewhat  dilapidated.  Oppo- 
site is  Island  Blanche  and  cottage,  E.  E.  Buckingham, 
owner.  A  little  opposite  is  Paul's  dock  and  Sunny 
Side,  with  tb'"ee  other  villas  ;  also  a  dairy  farm,  which, 
from  its  fine  looking  barns,  sheds  and  house  must  be 
considered  very  prosperous.  Peel's  Dock  having  been 
rebuilt,  was  memorable  as  the  spot  where  the  vessel 
"  Sir  Robert  Peel  as  burned  in  retaliation  for  the 
"  Caroline  "  being  sent  over  Niagara  Falls.  Next  on 
the  right,  "  Jolly  Oaks,"  Twin  Cottage  Home,  Pleasant 
View  and  San  Souci's,  four  cottages  and  dock.  The 
pretty  little  summer  house  on  the  Island  passed,  we 
arrive  at  Fern  Cliff  cottages  and  dock.  A  large  stone 
cottage  was  erected  here  several  seasons  ago,  called 
Hiawatha  Cottage.  This  is  for  sale.  Beautiful  villas, 
camps  and  cottages  line  the  banks  on  the  right,  among 
which  is  Fair  View,  owned  by  Hon.  W.  W.  Butterfield, 
of  Redwood,  N.  Y.,  until  we  arrive  at  Fair  View. 
Opposite,  on  the  left,  is  Fisher's  Landing,  Robinson 
Island,  Johnson's  Light  and  Cottage,  Hemlock,  Cedar, 
and  other  islands,  around  the  point  is  Castle  Chase,  and 
we  come  in  sight  of  Thousand  Island  Park — located  at 
the  upper  end  of  Wells'  Island,  owned  and  controlled 
by  the  Methodists;  the  neatest  and  most  orderly  and 
attractive  resort  among  the  Islands.  Something  should 
be  said  here  regarding  this,  the  most  celebrated  spot 
among  the  Thousand  Islands,     As  it  is  impossible,  from 


56 


! 


my  limited  knowledge,  to  do  the  subject  jus  ice,  and,  as 
I  cannot  steal,  clip,  borrow  or  plagiarize  from  any  olher 
work,  I  can  only  say,  stay  ever  one  day,  or  until  the 
boat  comes  back,  and  look  eve*,  this  delightful  spot. 

Again  on  our  way,  we  pass  the  head  ot  Wells'  Island, 
and  have  a  view  on  the  right  o^  the  finest  avenue  in  the 
Park,  a  long  line  of  boat  houses,  and  a  number  of  steanri 
yachts,  sail  and  fishing  boats,  windmills,  etc.,  etc. 
Beycnd,  on  the  right  in  the  distance,  is  Hemlock  Island 
and  Hotel,  owned  by  Mr.  Garrison,  of  Syracuse.  .This 
Island,  now  called  Murray  Hill  Park,  wp.s  pui'chased  by 
the  Thousand  Island  Improvenrient  Co.,  and  if  the 
energy  displayed  continues  this  snot  will  in  a  short  time 
become  the  beauty  of  the  whole.  The  large  body  of 
wate  •  en  the  right  is  Eel  Bay.  On  the  right  is  (xrennel's 
Island  and  House,  where  the  boat  stops  for  passengers; 
beyond,  on  the  right,  is  Otsego  Point  and  Cottages. 
We  next  pass  two  cottages,  after  which  Picton  Isle. 
Next  is  the  Berg  group;  beyond  are  the  Packingham 
Islands;  m  the  distance  on  the  left  is  Round  Island 
Park  and  the  "Frontenac"  Hotel;  many  magnificent 
cottages  line  the  shores  all  around  the  Island.  This 
is  a  favorite  resort  of  the  Baptists.  On  the  right 
is  Little  Round  Island,  and  on  the  left  in  the  Bay  is 
Washington  Islind;  opposite  on  the  right  is  the 
celebrated  Calumet  Island,  owned  by  Chas.  G.  Emery 
of  Old  Judge  cigarette  fame.  In  the  distance,  front, 
is  Clayton.  The  depot  and  docks  of  the  R.  W.  & 
O.  R.  R.  are  located  here.  Opposite  is  Gov,  Alvord's 
Island.  After  leaving  Clayton,  on  the  left  you  will 
have  a  view  of  Prospect  Park  and  Hill,  a  delightful 
resort.  Next  on  the  left,  as  we  turn,  is  Blanket  Island, 
on  the  righ*^  is  Grindstone  and   Club   Island  ;   next   on 


r 


!    .;! 


s 


57 

the  right  is  Hen  Island,  owned  by  W.  F.  Morgan; 
Whisicy  Island  is  owned  by  C.  Wolfe,  of  New  York, 
also  Levett's  Island,  owned  by  H.  G.  Levett ;  near  by 
is  Buck's  Point,  owned  by  Ives  Crocker,  and  Rum 
Point,  owned  by  Hervy  and  Hewett  Morgan,  o'  Wash- 
ington, D.  C;  Hicks,  near  Amblers  is  owned  by  rela- 
tives in  the  Bay  at  Buck's  Point,  is  the  finest  bathing 
beach  among  the  Islands  ;  beyond  is  the  celebrated 
Wolf  or  Long  Island,  the  largest  of  the  Thousand 
Islands,  being  twenty-one  miles  long  ;  next  is  Hickory 
Island.  We  now  cross  the  dividing  line,  after  which 
many  islands  appear,  all  sizes  and  shapes  until  we 
come  to  Ross  Dick  Island  ;  beyond  is  Burnt  Island  ; 
light  in  the  distance  is  Red  Horse  Light ;  opposite  on 
the  right,  is  Kalaria,  owned  by  Prof.  Castle,  of  Toronto, 
Canada,  and  occupied  by  Wilmot  Castle  and  his  brother 
Arthur,  and  families,[!this  season  ;  Wilmot  Castle  &  Co., 
cf  Rochester,  N.  Y., — the  manufacturers  of  the  Arnold 
automatic  cooker.  We  have  used  one  in  our  family  for 
the  past  five  years,  and  1  think  more  of  it  than  I  do  of 
**  my  mother-in-law,"  and'she  was  one  of  the  best  women 
that  ever  lived. 


r 


AMONG   THE  ISLANDS. 

It  must  not  be  supposed  that  these  hundreds  of 
islands  are  all  occupied  and  have  cottages  on  them,  or 
laid  out  with  walks  or  fountains.  For  every  island  that 
hi.  •  a  house  on  it  there  are  perhaps  twenty  that  have 
no'  ;.  The  number  of  houses  are  increasing  every 
}  -,  and  I  chink  that  in  time  nearly  every  island  will 
be  o»..cupied  in  the  Canadian  Channel  as  they  are  in  the 
American.    We  next  arrive  at 


58 

GANANOQUE. 

Here  the  captain  announces  a  stay  of  twenty-five 
minutes  for  refreshments,  remarking,  also,  that  it  takes 
twelve  minutes  to  walk  up  town  and  twelve  minutes 
back,  with  the  remainder  to  refr'^sh,  which  seems  to  my 
mind  a  little  too  fresh.  Leaving  Gananoque  on  time, 
we  will  return  by  the  Canadian  Channel,  which  is  more 
wild  and  picturesque,  as  far  as  scenery  is  concerned, 
although  not  one  island  or  point  is  inhabited  here  to  ten 
in  the  American  Channel.  On  the  right  is  Kipp  Island. 
Passing  many  beautiful  islands  and  light  houses,  we 
arrive  at  HalsLead's  Bay — after  passing  which  the 
islands  come  thick  and  fast,  all  sizes  and  shapes,  from  a 
little  one  for  a  cent  to  those  done  up  in  bunches,  like 
asparagus,  and  you  get  a  bunch  for  five.  We  pass  very 
close  to  A.sh  Island,  so  near  that  moss  has  been  plucked 
by  passengers  on  the  boat.  We  soon  arrive  at  Lind 
Light,  on  the  right,  and  are  coming  to  the.  Fiddler's 
Elbow.  Lay  this  book  aside  at  this  point  and  feast  the 
eye,  for  no  writer  could  do  the  subject  of  a  description 
justice.  The  King  of  Dwarfs,  Gen.  Tom  Thumb,  was  a 
passenger  on  the  "Wanderer"  one  day  when  he  asked 
the  captain  why  he  could  not  have  an  island.  The  captain 
with  his  usual  generosity,  gave  him  one  just  his  size,  and 
to  commemorate  the  event  has  placed  a  monument  there 
to  his  memory.  We  soon  emerge  from  our  land,  or 
island-locked  channel,  and  approach  Darling's  Dock. 
The  dock  is  visible,  but  we  have  never  seen  the  darling 
— after  which. comes  Echo  point,  where  you  can  hear  as 
many  echos  as  you  pay  cents  fare.  Passing  a  farm- 
house  on  the  right,  we  soon  arrive  on  the  left  at  Rock- 
port  ;  here  you  will  observe  we  have  but  two  seasons  of 
the  year.   Ice  and   Rock  ;  this  is  the   Rocky  season. 


•    < 


\ji^ 


•  \ 


Y'- 


59 

Turning  to  the  right,  we  make  direct  for  Westminster 
Paric.  Looking  backward  over  the  left  shoulder,  you 
will  have  a  view  of  Idlewitdeand  Sport  Islands,  formerly 
owned  by  the  Packers,  of  Pennsylvania,  who  expended 
seventy-eight  thousand  dollars  to  beautify  this  spot,  now 
owned  by  E.  P.  Wilber,  Pres.  of  the  Lehigh  Valley  R.  R. 
&  Coal  Co.  A  better  view  of  those  islands  may  be 
obtained  after  leaving  Westminster  Park  for  Alexandria 
Bay.  After  passing  the  point,  Hayden's  Island,  Fairy- 
land comes  in  view.  The  little  island  with  cottage,  is 
owned  by  Mr.  Hasbrouck,  of  Ogdensburg,  N.  Y.,  called 
Pike  Island.  The  next  on  the  right  is  St.  John's  Island, 
owned  by  Judge  Donahue,  of  New  York.  The  next  on 
the  right  is  Manhatten  group,  owned  by  Judge  Spencer 
and  Hasbrouck,  of  New  York.  A  wooden  bridge  joins 
them  together.  This  is  the  first  island  inhabited  for 
recreation,  and  was  bought  by  Seth  Green,  the  fish 
culturist  of  New  York  State  ;  on  the  left  is  long  Beach, 
and  Anthony's  Point,  (the  Ledges  owned  by  C.  J.  Hud- 
son, of  New  York)  and  Bonnie  Castle  ;  on  the  right  is 
Deshler  and  Hart's  Island.  We  next  arrived  at  Alex- 
andria Bay,  from  which  we  started  almost  four  hours 
ago. 

"YES!  A  GREAS-Y  STATUE." 

"  How  much  do  you  weigh  ? "  Well,  I  am  asked  that 
question  many  times  every  day,  and  as  I  am  not  sensi- 
tive will  say  my  weight  is  three  hundred  and  thirty-three 
pounds  in  the  shade,  just  one  pound  for  every  mile 
between  Toronto  and  Montreal  via  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
way. The  reason  why  I  say  in  the  shade,  is  because 
there  has  never  been  raised  d  mathematician  with  the 
ability  to  compute  the  weight  of  a  grease  spot,  and  were 


6o 


M 


1 1 


I  compelled  to  remain  in  the  sun  very  long  would  make 
one,  and  do  not  care  to  mislead  people  into  an  enor. 
The  fat  of  this  land  is  about  as  unevenly  distributed  as 
the  wealth.  Those  who  ain't  got  it  want  it ;  those  who 
have  it,  have  too  much.  I  am,  therefore,  a  Vanderbilt 
in  grease,  have  a  corner  in  lard,  as  it  were. 

"DO  YOU  GO  OUT  FISHING?" 

Well,  not  often.  You  see,  this  ponderous  body  of 
mine  does  not  fit  the  average  fishing  boat.  My  fears 
are  not  all  bound  up  in  that  one  fact,  nor  in  the  satis- 
faction that  if  the  boat  should  upset  that  I  would  not 
sink,  but  the  fear  that  is  indelibly  photographed  upon 
my  mind,  that  as  I  would  float,  and  being  so  large,  some 
steamboat  captain  or  pilot  would  take  me  for  an  island, 
lay  alongside  and  let  the  passengers  oft  for  a  little  picnic 
or  an  hour's  pleasure.     Think  of  it. 

YACHTING. 

Water — and  as  one  enthusiastic  writer  puts  it — such 
water  ! — is  abundant,  and  to  enjoy  this  water  in  a  pen- 
sive or  poetic  mood,  the  steam  yacht  should  be  brought 
into  requisition.  Private  yachts  are  numerous  and  ele- 
gant, and  it  is  to  the  credit  of  the  owners  that  they  are 
not  niggardly  in  exhibiting  a  spirit  of  generosity  and 
courtesy..  They  are  cons;antly  inviting  individuals  and 
parties  to  enjoy  the  exhilarating  excitement  of  the 
shooting  around  the  beautiful  spots.  And  if  you,  dear 
tourist,  have  no  friend  that  invites  you  to  share  a  cush- 
ioned seat  in  his  graceful  fairy-like  craft,  then  go  to 
Capt.  Reese,  on  the  '*  New  Island  Wanderer,"  who  will 
take  you  on  an  excursion  among  the  islands  that  you 
will  gladly  recall  as  a  cheerful  reminiscence  of  your  St. 


\ 


y  •       ">  f 


\ 


y- 


6i 

Lawrence  excursion,  for  the  opportunity  will  have  been 
offered  to  bring  within  the  range  of  your  vision  enchant- 
ing scenes  that  pen  is  not  adequate  to  describe,  but  by 
purchasing  one  of  the  "  Phat  Boy's  "  Pictures  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  you  will  be  the  possessor  of  the  only  correct 
map,  a  perfect  guide  to  the  river. 

"WOULD  YOU  BELIEVE  IT  ?" 

A  gentleman  from  London  came  on  board  the  boat 
at  Kingston  one  morning,  rushed  up  to  me  and  said, 
•*  Mr.  Babbage,  how  do  you  do  ?  Why,  you  cannot 
imagine  haw  glad  I  am  to  see  you  !  Why,  do  you  know 
that  before  I  left  *  home  '  a  lady  invited  fhe  to  take  tea 
at  her  house,  and  when  I  told  her  that  I  was  coming  to 
America  she  never  stopped  ta'king  about  you  for  over 
two  hours ;  it  is  a  great  relief  to  meet  you,  I  assure 
you,"  Meeting  upon  the  street  one  afternoon,  a  very  fine 
looking  old  gentleman,  he  said,  "  Hold  on  a  monient, 
I  have  something  to  tell  you.  I  have  just  received 
a  letter  from  my  daughter  who  lives  in  Australia,  she 
said  she  found  one  of  your  books  upon  the  table  at  her 
friend's  house  where  she  was  visitmg  so  she  inquired 
how  it  came  there.  *'  Why,  bless  your  soul,  we  took  a 
trip  with  him  down  the  St.  Lawrence  River  and  he  made 
it  pleasant  for  us  for  eight  hours  and  I  would  not  part 
with  the  book  for  an  interest  in  the  profits  of  the  'new 
version  '  or  revised  edition." 

A  lady  wrote  me  from  Trenton,  N.  J.-  "While  at 
Alexandria  Bay  in  1883,  I  bought  a  copy  of  the  '  Phat 
Boy's  Delineations  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River  (I  think 
of  the  author  from  the  picture  on  the  cover).  Have 
read  it  over  and  over  to  my  fnends  until  it  is  completely 
worn  out.      Can  you  forward  me  another  copy  ?"    I  did 


62 

as  requested  and  at  the  same  time  inquired  what 
pleased  her  friends  most.  And  she  said  in  reply,  that  it 
was  all  good,  but  the  articles  upon  myself  were  the 
most  pleasing  to  her.  I  must,  therefore,  send  her  a 
copy  of  this,  my  last  effort.  The  latter  part  of  May  I 
met  a  gentleman  at  the  Sturtevant  House,  New  York, 
while  visiting  Mr.  J.  C.  Matthews,  the  proprietor,  who 
said  :  "  How  do  you  do,  Mr.  Babbage  ?  I  presume  you  do 
not  remember  me,  but  while  at  the  Thousand  Islands 
last  season,  and  before  going  to  Montreal,  I  purchased 
of  you  one  of  your  books,  and  it  would  be  an  injustice 
not  to  tell  you  that  we  had  more  real  pleasure  and  profit 
from  its  perusal  than  any  one  thing  on  our  trip.  I  desire 
to  thank  you,  and  my  wife  would  do  the  same  were  she 
here.  The  book  is  almost  worn  out ;  more  than  fifty  of 
my  friends  have  read  it.  I  want  another  copy  ;  if  you 
will  not  send  it,  I  will  come  to  Alexandria  Bay  and  get  it." 


H.  H.  WARNER  AND  GEO.  M.  PULLMAN. 

Two  of  nature's  noble  men.  Two  of  the  greatest 
benefactors  of  the  human  race.  Two  of  the  greatest 
men  born  in  New  York  State.  One  the  inventor  of 
the  clebratid  Pullman  car  that  has  given  ease,  rest 
and  comf  jrt  to  the  whole  enlightened  world.  The 
other,  the  Warner's  Safe  Cure,  which  has  given  relief 
to  millions  of  sufferers  from  kidney  and  liver  dis- 
ease. 

Each  in  turn  are  spending  a  small  portion  of  their 
immense  wealth  in  building  suitable  cottages  upon 
their  respective  islands,  "  Warner's  "  and  "  Pullman's 
which  they  expect  to  occupy  during  the  coming  sea- 
son.   When  such  men  as  they  are,  do  what  they 


r' 


\'  ; 


;.*J«K.U. 


63 

intend,  it  will  prove  to  the  world  that  the  Thousand 
Islands,  as  a  watering  place,  has  no  equal,  and  by  next 
season  we  may  look  for  a  "  boom  **  beyond  our  greats 
est  expectation. 

THE  *' LOTUS  SEEKER." 

This  tidy  little  craft  made  its  first  appearance  on 
the  St.  Lawrence  three  seasons  ago  and  is  owned  by 
Mr.  Holden,  of  New  York,  who  has  a  very  beautiful 
cottage  at  Thousand  Island  Park.  Many  times  during 
the  season  she  could  be  seen  plying  in  and  out  among 
the  islands,  comfortably  filled  with  the  invited  guests 
of  her  owner,  and  passing  every  thing  moved  by  steam 
power.  I  felt  quite  badly  one  day  while  taking  a  ride 
upon  one  of  the  "cracked"  yachts,  to  be  passed  so 
quickly  by  the  **  Lotus  Seeker  "  that  I  did  not  have 
time  to  say  good-bye  to  my  friend,  J.  W.  Burdick, 
Gen.  Passenger  Agent  of  the  D.  &  H.  R.  R.  Co.,  who 
was  one  of  her  passengers. 

WALTER  H.  GRIFFIN, 

the  present  room  clerk  at  the  Thousand  Island  House, 
(late  of  Hotel  Marlborough,  New  York),  was  the  ''^in- 
ner  of  theorize  for  the  largest  pickerel  catch  of  1884. 
It  was  caught  within  one  hundred  yards  of  the  hotel 
and  weighed  eighteen  and  three-quarter  pounds. 

MR.  J.  C.  MATTHEWS, 

who  was  the  manager  of  the  Thousand  Island  House 
in  1884,  is  inquired  after  by  visitors  more  than  any 
other  person.  I  hope  to  be  saved  some  trouble,  as 
well  as  time,  by  stating  here  that  he  is  the  proprietor 
of  the  Sturtevant  House,  New  York.  If  you  visit  the 
city  give  him  a  call. 


n 

d 

is 

r 


■■W 


64 

LORD  DUFFERIN, 

one  of  Canada's  former  Governor-Generals,  and  in 
my  opinion  the  best  they  ever  had,  was  a  passenger 
down  the  St.  Lawrence  many  times  while  I  was  ^s^uide 
to  the  river.  How  well  I  remember  some  one  ask- 
ing him  why  he  left  Toronto  and  his  comfortable 
quarters  at  the  Queen's  Hotel  to  come  to  Montreal. 
He  answered  by  stating,  that  over  across  the  lake  in 
the  United  States,  they  had  just  had  an  election,  the 
Tilden  and  Hayes  campaign,  and  as  it  was  impossible 
to  tell  who  was  really  chosen  by  the  people,  he  was 
afraid  they,  the  people,  would  rise  in  their  might,  send 
a  deputation  over  to  Toronto,  kidnap  him  and  place 
him  in  the  presidential  chair.  Then  what  would 
become  of  poor  little  Canada. 

"A  LITTLE  ONE  ON  PERKINS." 

Two  gentlemen  at  the  Marsden  House  one  day  were 
talking,  when  the  subject  of  truth  was  approached, 
and  one  of  them  who  stammered,  said,  "  There  are 
t-t- three  great  li- liars  i-i-in  Araericar"  The  friend 
said,  "Who  are  they?"  "  O-o-one  of  t-t- them  i-i-is 
T-T-Tom  Oc-Oc-Ochiltree  of  Te-Te-Texas,  and 
th-th-the  other  t;vo  is  E-E-Eli  Perkins." 


VISITORS  AT  THE  THOUSAND  ISLANDS 

who  desire  to  see  Montreal  and  return  by  boat  (their 
time  being  limited),  »he  following  information  will  be 
of  interest.  All  passengers  arrive  in  Montreal  betvi'een 
six  and  seven  o'clock  p.  m.,  as  there  is  littl«  to  see  at 
night  and  very  little  time  to  see  it  in.  The  boat  leaves 
her  dock,  Canal  Basin,  to  return,  every  morning  at  9 


w 


65 

o'clock  except  Sunday.  You  can  remain  in  Montreal 
until  the  12  m.  train  for  Lachine  from  the  G.  T. 
R.  station  (by  taking  the  train,  fare  25  cents,  you  will 
arrive  at  Lachine  in  time  to  take  ihe  boat  and  enjoy 
your  dinner  while  passing  through  Lake  St.  Louis)- 
Should  you  desire  to  prolong  your  stay,  remain  in 
Montreal  until  the  5  p.  m.  train  leaves  same  depot  for 
Coteau  Landing.  A  carriage  in  waiting  will  take 
you  to  the  boat,  fare  from  Montreal,  including  car- 
riage, $1.25.  You  will  take  passage  from  there  at 
seven  o'clock,  and  have  your  supper  on  board  the 
boat  while  passing  through  Lake  St.  Francis.  It  takes 
the  boat  sixteen  hours  longer  to  come  back  than  to 
go  down  (reason  they  are  compelled  to  pass  through 
the  Lachine,  Beauharnois  and  Cornwall  canals,  which 
consumes  the  time).  All  passengers  arrive  at  Alexan- 
dria Bay,  every  day,  between  twelve  and  one  o'clock 
p.  M.,  except  on  Monday. 

WHAT  I  KNOW  ABOUT  CATCHING  FISH 

During  last  summer  I  was  at  Alexandria  Bay,  N.  Y,, 
and  took  note  of  some  of  the  best  catches  of  fish,  but  I 
have  not  the  space  to  record  them.  Let  me  say  that 
anybody  can  catch  fish  of  the  following  varieties  any- 
where in  the  St.  Lawrence  River  :  Rock  bass,  black 
bass,  perch,  pike,  pickerel  and  muscalonge.  I  have 
caught,  off  the  dock  at  the  Bay,  in  less  than  two 
hours,  a  black  bass  weighing  three  and  one-half  pounds 
and  a  pickerel  weighing  over  six  pounds.  The  largest 
fish  caught  last  season  was  a  muscalonge,  weight  38 
lbs.,  caught  at  an  Island  opposite  the  bay  near  Rock- 
port.     A  pike  7>^  pounds,  black  bass  sj4  pounds,  a 


66 


I  ■ 


pickerel  13  pounds.  Several  fishing  parlies  out  for 
one  to  three  days  brought  in  such  enormous  catches 
that  if  I  mentioned  them  they  would  be  called  fish 
stories. 

Respectfully  yours, 

E.  F.  BABBAGE. 

A  REAL  LIVE  DUDE 

was  at  the  Bay  last  season,  and  I  must  give  him  credit 
for  one  thing,  I  could  not  for  having  ei^.her  money  or 
brains,  but  will  say  he  was  very  attentive  to  the  ladies, 
and  it  may  be  said  to  his  credit,  he  never  tried  to  cut 
me  out.  One  fine  morning  he  induced  three  of  the 
nicest  young  ladies  at  the  Bay  to  take  a  boat  ride,  and 
for  the  privilege  of  their  company  agreed  to  do  the 
rowing  himself.  They  had  been  out  upon  the  water 
for  some  time,  and  he  had  done  the  rowing  heroically, 
but  getting  into  the  strong  current,  his  physical  de- 
velopment was  being  tested  to  the  utmost,  when  he 
asked  the  young  ladies  *'  if  it  would  not  be  better  for 
him  to  hug  the  shore."  After  a  pause  of  a  minute, 
the  girliest  girl  of  the  group  exclaimed:  "Well,  if 
you  can't  find  anything  better  to  hug,  do  for  heaven's 
sake  •  hug  the  shore  !'  '* 

E.  3.  WARREN,  OF  PHILADELPHIA,  PA., 

with  his  wife  and  daughters,  have  in  the  past  paid  the 
St.  Lawrence  River  many  visits,  and  been  mentioned 
by  me  for  their  fish  catches.  One  day  in  particular 
they  brought  in  and  exhibited  at  the  Thousand  Island 
House,  18  small  mouthed  black  bass  weghing  seventy- 
four  pounds.  Since  the  completion  of  "  The  Saga- 
more "  on  Green  Island,  Lake  George,  and  the  build- 


"v  I     ,^ 


67 

ing  of  an  elegant  cottage  there,  he  stays  at  home,  and 
I  am  contented  with  the  old  proverb,  "  Tho'  lost  to 
sight  to  memory  dear." 

EDWARD  INGRAKAM, 

the  King  of  Connecticut  Clock  Manufactures,  whos& 
immense  factories  are  located  at  Bristol,  Conn.,  was 
spending  a  few  days  at  "The  Sagamore,"  Lake  George, 
in  order  to  gain  strength  after  recovery  from  a  severe 
attack  of  pneumonia.  The  bracing  air  of  this  local- 
ity* together  with  two  hours  spent  in  a  social  chat 
with  a  select  circle  of  the  guests  (myself  included),  he 
said  it  would  be  sure  to  produce  the  desired  effect — 
health  and  strength.  I  mean  to  time  him  with  an 
eight  day  clock  and  see.  I  have  timed  him.  And 
hope  his  health  exceeds  his  generosity,  which  I  know 
is  very  large,  because  we  are  indebted  to  him  for  the 
ticking  of  the  prettiest  clock  that  graces  any  mantle 
on  our  street. 


V 


E.  G.  GILMORE, 

New  York's  greatest  Theatrical  Manager,  has  enjoyed 
many  seasons  of  pleasure  at  Alexandria  Bay.  The  last 
time  I  saw  him,  he  wanted  to  know  how  it  would  do 
for  him  to  bring  his  whole  corps  de  ballet  to  the 
Thousand  Islands  for  a  season's  recuperation.  "  Don't 
you  think  it  would  give  them  vigor,  such  good  brac- 
ing air  as  you  have  up  there  ?" 

MESSRS.   RAYMOND    AND    WHITCOMB, 

America's  greatest  Excursion  assents,  have  probably 
brought  more  people  to  the  St.  Lawrence  River^  than 


68 

nave  come  directly  from  the  reading  of  the  several 
editions  of  my  book  that  have  been  issued  during  the 
past  nine  years,  which  is  saying  a  great  deal  for  them. 
I  hope  to  have  the  pleasure  of  meeting  more  of  their 
select  parties  during  the  coming  season. 


I 


MR.    AMD    ^^RS.  CHAS.   MAC   EVOY, 

of  New  York,  i,ave  o  n  visitors  at  the  Thousand 
Islands  many  times.  JMr.  MacEvoy  has  persevered  and 
after  many  years  succeeded  in  producing  "  Glazed 
Kid,"  the  most  superb  of  shoe  materials,  "  out-vleing 
France."  My  Auntie  May,  who  weighs  two  hundred 
and  sixty-five  pounds,  after  wearing  a  pair  of  shoes 
four  months  made  of  this  material,  says,  "  the  wear- 
ing qualities  of  the  glazed  kid  produced  the  best 
results  of  any  she  ever  wore."  One  season*,  with  a 
New  York  friend,  they  caught  the  largest 
catch  of  black  bass  I  ever  saw  brought  in  by  amateurs. 


DR.  PERRY  OF   THE    UNITED  STATES 

HOTEL, 

Saratoga  Springs,  caught  the  largest  muscalonge  of 
the  season  1886.  As  the  fishing  is  much  better  every 
year,  on  account  of  all  illegal  fishing  with  nets  having 
been  stopped,  I  hope  to  see  him  again  at  the  Bay,  as 
well  as  all  other  lovers  of  fishing. 


veral 
?the 
hem. 
their 


sand 
land 
azed 
eing 
ired 
hoes 
'ear- 
best 
\h  a. 
best 
urs. 


ES 


of 
Bry 

as 


THE  NAMES  OF  THE  INHABITED  ISLANDS, 
POINTS  AND  COTTAGES 

In  the  American  Channel  of  the  River,  Alphabetically  arranged. 

A 

Allegheny  Point J.  S.  Laney. 

Arcadia  and  Ina S.  A.  Brings.  • 

Alice Col,  A.  J.  Cassc. 

Ambler Mrs.Steal. 

B 

Bergshire ...  Hon.  S.  G.  Poi-e. 

Bay  Side H.  B.  Mo.sher. 

Bonny  Eyrie Mrs.  Peck. 

Bay  View C.  S.  Lyman. 

Be.'e  Island Hev.  Walter  Aynn   : . 

Bella  Vista  Lodge U.  B.  Chishnlra. 

Bonny  Castle  (Main  Land) Mrs.  J.  G.  Hollar  J. 

Birch  Island W.J.Lewis. 

Buck's  Point Ives  Crocker. 

C 

Castle  Fannie Rev.  W.  DempUer    .las^. 

Covert J.  C.  Overt. 

Cloud  Pvest A.  H.  Greenw 

Chillon A.  H.  Greenv.     ; 

Calun^  • Chas.  G.  Emory. 

Ced.*r  Island J .  M.  Curtis. 

Comfort  Island A.E.Clark. 

Craig  Side  (Well's  Island) H.  A.  Laughlin. 

Crescent  Cottages  (Main  Land) Bleecker  \  an  Wagenen. 

D 

Devil'sOven H.  R.  Heatb. 

Deshler  Island W.  G.  Deshler. 

Deer  Island Hon.  S.  Miller. 

Douglass  Island ..  Douglass  Miller. 

Dinglespeil Joseph  Babcock. 

Elephant  Rock T.  C.  Crittenden. 

Easton,  Stuyvesant,  Cherry  Island James  E.  Easton. 

Edge  wood  Park Edge  wood  Park   Association. 

Edgewood  Cottage G.  C  Martin. 

Ella  Island R.  E.  Hungertord. 

Excelsior  Group C  S.  Goodwin. 

Eiinore Wm.  McAfee. 

Frederick  Island C  L  Fredericks. 

Fisher's  Landing Mrs  K.Gurnee  &  Miss  Newton . 

Friendly E.W.Dewey. 

Florence  Island H.  S.  Chandler. 

Felseneck Prof.  A.  G.  Hopkins. 

Fern   N.  &  J.  Wilson. 

Fairy  Land C.  H.  &  W.  B.  Hayden. 

Q 

Governor's  Island Hon.  T.  G.  Alvord. 

Gun  Island H.H.Warner. 

Goose  Island Mrs.  Lottie  Simonds. 

Gypsy  Island J.M.Curtis. 


Mi 


I., 


70 

II 

Helon'8  Island. ...  Mrs.  O.  G.  Staples. 

Hemlock Hon.  W.  P.  Porter  and  Wilson. 

Hub  Island George  W.  Best. 

Holloway's  Point Nathan  HoUoway. 

Harmony Mrs.  C.  Berger. 

Huh  Clark  Island Will  Clark. 

Hart's  Island Hon.  E.  K.  Hart. 

Huguenot '. .  L.  Haabrouck. 

Hen  Island W.F.Morgan. 

Hicks  Island J.  Q.  Holland. 

Isle  Helen Mi-s.  Helen  S.  Taylor. 

Tale  of  Pines Mrs.  E   N.Robinson. 

Island  lloyal Royal  E.  Deane. 

Island  Grade MlssG.  Fox. 

Ingleside  (Cherry  Island) G.  B.  Marsh. 

Imperial  Island    G.  T.  Kafferty. 

Island  Mary  W.  M.  Palmer. 

Idlewild Mrs.  R.  A.  Packer. 

Island  Blanch , Watet'town,N.  Y. 

J 

Jefferson  Island  E.  P.  Gardiner. 

Jolly  Oaks  (Wells'  Island) Prof.  A.  H.  Brown  and  others. 

Killlen's  Point Mr.  J.  Killien. 

Kit  Grafton.. Mrs.  8.  L.  George. 

Little  Calumet Oliver  H.  Green. 

Lone  Pine Comstock  &  Co. 

Little  Charm  Island Mrs.  F.  W.  Baker. 

Look  Out  Island Thos.  H.  Borden. 

Little  Lehigh C.  H.  Cummings. 

Little  Fraud R .  Pease. 

Long  Branch Mrs.  C.  "E.  Clark . 

Little  Delight L.  W.  Morrison. 

Long  Rock   W.  P.  Wilson. 

Little  Whortleberry Mrs.  L.  E.  B.  Brown. 

Lattimer Dr.  C.  E.  Lattimer. 

Lindner's John  Lindner. 

Louisiana  Point Judge  La  Bette. 

LittleGem Mrs.  ^v.  Walton. 

Little  Angel W.  A.  Angell. 

Linlithgow Hon.  K.  A.  Livingston. 

Lily's  Island L.  B.  H.  Morrison. 

Levetts H.  G.  Levetts. 

M 

Maple  Island Joseph  Atwell . 

Minium Rev.  W.  W.  Walsh. 

Melrose  Lodge  (Cherry  Island) A .  B.  Pullman . 

Manhattan J.  L.  Hasbrouck,  J.C.  Spencer. 

Maple  Island J.  L.  Hasbrouck. 

II 

Neniah-bin * J.  H.  Oliphant. 

Nobby  Island H.  R.  Heath. 

Nett's  Island W.  B.  Hayden. 

O 

One  Tree  Island William  Wright. 

Occident  and  Orient E.  W.  Washburn. 

Ourslsland Mrs.  M.  Carter. 


71 


l^llson. 


Peel  Island Mrs.  S.  P.  Ijake  and  othoi's. 

Point  Vivian R.  T.  Evans  and  others. 

Photo  Island H.  K.  Heath. 

Pullman  Island George  M.  Pullman. 

Point  Lookout  (Well's  Island) Miss.  L.  J.  Bullock. 

Picnic  Point Westminster  Park  Ass'n. 

Point  Marguerite  (Main  Island) E.  Anthony. 

Pike  Island  Frank  F.  Dickinson. 

Palisade  Point A.  C.  Beckwith. 


Quartette  Island Mrs*  W.  Egan. 


others. 


Rob  Roy  Island A.  H.  Greenwalt. 

River  Hide  Island James  C  Lee. 

Resort  Island W.J.Lewis. 

Round  Island Baptist  Association. 

Rum  Point H.  &  H.  Morgan,  Wash  &  C(». 

8 

Schooner  Island J.N.  Whltehouse. 

Sunbeam  Group Odd  Fellows  of  Watertown. 

Spuyten  Duyvel Alice  P.  Sargent. 

Summer-Land Summer-Ijand  Association. 

Sunny-SIde  Island W.  Stevenson. 

Seven  Isles ^ Hon.  Bradley  Winslow. 

Sunny  Side  (Cherry  Islands)  Rev.  George  Rockwell. 

Safe  Point  (Well's  Island) H.  H.  Warner. 

St.  Elmo N.  H.  Hunt. 

Sun-Dew  Island Chas.  M.  Slamm. 

St.  John's Judge  Donohue* 

Sport  Island H.  C.  Wllber. 

St.  Helena Harrison  3tillman. 


Two  Islands,  Eel  Bay   Dr.  E.  L.  Sargent. 

Twin  Islands I.  L.  Huntington. 

Throop  Dock Dr-  C.  E.  Lattimer  and  others. 

The  Ledges Mrs.  J.  L.  Hudson. 

Thousand  Island  Park Methodist  Association. 

The  Towers W.C.Browning,  New  York. 

U 

Una  Island Mrs.  Mv  E.  Steel. 


icer. 


Vanderbilt  Island J.  B.  Hamilton. 

Vilula  Island H.  Sisson. 

W 

Walton  Island J.  N.  &  G.  H.  Robinson. 

West  View  Island Hon.  S.  G.  Pope. 

Welcome  Island Hon.  S.  G.Pope. 

Whortleberry  Island Mrs.  Etta  Still  well. 

Watch  Island Mrs.  Elizabeth  Skinner. 

Waving  Branches H.  S.  Ainsworth. 

Wild  Rose Hon.  W.  G.  Rose. 

Warner  Island H.  H.  Warner. 

Wau  Winet C.  E.  Hill. 

West  Point John  Mathews. 

Whiskey C  Wolfe,  N.  Y. 


';  I 


R 


OUTE 


A. 


<?A 


N.  Y.  C.  &  H.  R  R.  R, 


I  ' 


The  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  Railroad, 
aptly  termed  "  America's  Greatest  Railroad,"  reaches 
more  celebrated  health  and  pleasure  resorts  than  prob- 
ably any  other  line  in  the  United  States,  and  has  long 
been  the  favorite  route  with  tourists  to  Saratoga,  Lake 
George,  Lake  Champlain  and  the  Catskill  Mountains, 
Montreal,  Adirondack  Mountains,  Thousand  Islands, 
Richfield  and  Sharon  Springs,  Cooperstown,  Niagara 
Falls,  and  hundreds  of  other  noted  resorts  of  New 
York  State,  New  England  and  Canada. 

The  New  York  Central  is  the  only  four-track  rail- 
road in  the  world,  and  enjoys  the  unique  distinction 
of  being  the  only  trunk  line  with  a  passenger  station 
in  the  City  of  New  York,  ail  trains  arriving  at  and 
departing  from  Grand  Central  Station,  Fourth  Avenue 
and  Forty-Second  Street,  the  very  centre  of  the  city. 

With  its  magnificent  roadway,  easy  curves,  light 
grades,  superb  equipment  and  historic  scenery,  the 
New  York  Central  presents  the  highest  developmenis 

of  the  modern  art  of  transport. 

72     • 


R 


OUTE 


B. 


WEST    SHORE   ROUTE, 


N.  Y.  C.   «S:   H.   R.   R.    R.,   LESSEES. 


•^. 


THE  TOURISTS'  ROUTE  TO  THE  NORTH. 

While  many  suppose  that  both  sides  of  the  Hudson 
River  present  equal  attractions — and  it  would  be  hard 
to  decide  which  is  the  most  beautiful — it  is  a  curious 
fact  that  all,  or  nearly  all,  the  noted  summer 
resorts  for  which  the  country  adjacent  is  famous,  are 
located  on  its  western  bank.  Thus,  starting  from 
New  York  and  following  up  the  West  Shore  Route, 
we  find  the  Palisades,  Tappan,  Rockland  Lake,  Stony 
Point,  Cranston's,  West  Point,  Cornwall,  Lake 
Mohonk  and  Minnewaska,  the  Catskills,  Saratoga, 
Mount  McGregor,  and  the  Adirondacks.  • 

In  addition  to  the  above  points  of  interest,  the  trav- 
eler may  be  conveyed  to  Lake  George,  Lake  Cham- 
plain  and  M  >ntreal  on  the  north  ;  Sharon  Springs, 
Cooperstown,  Richfield  Springs,  Thousand  Islands 
and  the  Lake  Region  of  Central  New  York,  or 
take  the  New  York  Central  Railroad  from  the 
Grand  Central   station  and  proceed  on  the  world- 

73 


\  1 


74 

renowned  four  track  road  to  Utica,  where  direct  con- 
nection can  be  made  with  the  Utica  and  Black  River 
branch  of  the  Rome,  Watertown  and  Ogdensburg 
Railroad — N.  Y.  C.  &  H.  R.  R.  R.,  Lessees — which  in 
a  few  hours  will  bring  you  to  the  majestic  scenery  of 
the  St.  Lawrence.  At  Clayton  you  take  one  of  the 
beautiful  steamers  of  the  Richelieu  and  Ontario 
Navigation  Company,  direct  for  Montreal,  or  con- 
tinue on  by  rail  to  Rochester.  Should  you  remain 
over,  stop  at  the  New  Osburn  House,  kept  by  my 
friend,  Elmer  E.  Almy,  or  continue  to 


BUFFALO,  N.    Y. 

which  is  connected  with  Toronto  by  the  Grand  Trunk 
R.  R.,  the  new  route,  leavirg  Erie  Depot  at  8:15  A.  M. 
by  rail  to  Port  Dalhousie  connecting  with  the  steamer' 
for  Toronto,  arriving  at  12:55  P.  M.,  connecting 
with  Royal  Mail  Line  for  Thousand  Islands  and  Mon- 
treal,— should  you  conclude  to  remain  over  at  Buffalo 
for  a  day  or  more  stop  at  the  Hotel  Niagara,  kept  by 
as  genial  a  landlord  as  one  wishes  to  meet,  Mr.  H.  A. 
Dunn,— or  proceed  by  rail  to 


% 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


When  visiting  this  wonder  of  wonders  at  any  season 
of  the  year,  the  tourist  will  find  a  number  of  hotels 
to  choose  from.  The  Spencer  House  recommended 
in  this  book  as  being  a  first  class  house  and  open  the 
year  around  burned  down  last  March. 


75 
GRAND  TRUNK  R.  R. 

Trains  leave  Niagara  Falls  every  morning,  Sundays 
excepted,  by  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.  direct  for  Toronto, 
arriving  in  time  to  connect  with  the  Mail  Line  for 
Montreal.  Trains  leave  Niagara  Falls  every  morning, 
except  Sunday,  at  9:45  A.  M.  via  Central  Hudson 
branch  for  Lewiston.  Any  information  relative  to 
the  route  or  the  purchase  of  tickets  will  be  cheerfully 
given  upon  application  to  Mrs.  L.  Barber,  who  can 
be  found  at  room  No.  i,  of  the  International  Hotel 
Building. 

At  Lewiston  connections  are  made  with  the  fast 
sailing  side- wheel  steamboats 

"CHICORA"  AND  *XIBOLA," 

making  three  trips  daily  across  the  beautiful  Lake 
Ontario,  arriving  at  Toronto  in  time  to  connect  with 
the  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation  Company  for 
Kingston,  Alexandria  Bay,  Thousand  Islands  and 
Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Montreal. 

TORONTO, 

the  capital  of  the  Province  of  Ontario,  is  situated  on  a 
circular  bay  of  the  same  name,  and  was  founded  by 
Governor  Simcoe  in  1794,  and  we  advise  all  tourists  to 
make  a  stay  of  one  or  two  days  here.  It  is  the  only 
Americanized  city  in  the  Dominion  of  Canada.  The 
Queens  Royal  Hotel,  situated  at  Niagara  on  the 
Niagara  river,  and  the  Queen's  Hotel,  at  Toronto,  are 
presided  over  by  Messrs.  McGaw  and  Winnett.  This 
is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  comfortable  hotels  in 
the  Dominion  of   Canada,   and,  being  adjacent  to  the 


1(> 

Lake,  commands  a  splendid  view  of  Toronto  Bay  and 
Lake  Ontario.  It  is  well  known  as  one  of  the  coolest 
houses  in  summer  in  Canada,  and  is  elegantly  furnished 
throughout.  Rooms  en  suiie^  with  bath-rooms  attached, 
on  every  floor.  The  Queens  has  been  liberally  patronized 
by  Royalty  and  Nobility  during  their  visits  to  Toronto, 
and  among  those  who  have  honored  it  with  their  pat- 
ronage, are  His  Imperial  Highness,  the  Grand  Duke. 
Alexis,  of  Russia  ;  their  Royal  Highnesses,  Prince 
Leopold,  Prince  George,  Princess  Louise,  and  the  Duke 
and  Duchess  of  Connaught,  the  Marquis  of  Lome, 
the  Earl  and  Countess  of  Dufferin,  the  Marquis  and 
Marchioness  of  Lansdowne,  Lord  and  Lady  Stanley  of 
Preston,  and  the  best  families.  If  you  desire  a  carriage 
while  in  the  city,  Telephone  to  No.  109,  R.  Bond's 
livery,  York  Street.  His  new  establishment  is  the 
largest  and  most  commodious  in  the  Dominion  of  Canada 
and  contains  every  style  of  equipage  run  on  wheels, 
from  the  Dog  Cart  to  the  Tally-Ho  Coach — everything 
first-class  in  that  Une. 


PORT    HOPE 

is  situated  65  miles  from  Toronto.  A  small  stream 
which  here  falls  into  the  lake,  has  formed  a  valley  in 
which  the  town  is  located.  The  harbor  at  the  mouth 
of  the  stream  is  shallow,  but  safe  and  commodious. 
Port  Hope  is  a  pretty  town  ;  on  the  western  side  the 
hills  rise  gradually  one  above  the  other.  The  highest 
summit,  called  "  Fort  Orton,"  affords  a  fine  prospect, 
and  overlooks  the  country  for  a  great  distance.  The 
village  is  incorporated  ;  population  about  5,114.  A 
direct  route  to  Rochester  by  the  steamer  "  Norseman  " 
leaves  this  port  every  morning,  except  Sunday,  calling 


at  Cobourg  and  connecting  with  Grand  Trunk  train 
from  Toronto  every  week  day  morning  and  arriving  in 
Rochester  the  samr  afternoon.  The  Grand  Summer 
Excursion  of  the  "  Norseman"  from  Rochester  to 
Alexandria  Bay  leaves  Rochester  every  Saturday  after- 
noon and  passing  though  the  i,ooo  Island  scenery  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  River,  arrives  at  Alexandria  Bay  in 
time  for  dinner,  giving  the  passengers  about  five  hours 
at  the  Bay,  and  returns  to  Rochester  early  on  Monday. 
I  have  advised  many  of  my  friends  to  make  this  trip,  all 
of  whom  have  expressed  themselves  as  delighted. 

Also  from  this  port  the  R.  I.  S.  &  O.,  Nav.  Co.  Str., 
makes  three  trips  a  week  leaving  Charlotte  Tuesdays 
Thursdays  and  Saturdays  at  5:30  P.  M.,  and  returning 
on  Mondays  Wednesdays  and  Fridays  giving  the  passen- 
gers a  delightful  trip 

COBOURG, 

seven  miles  below  Port  Hope,  contains  6,000  inhabitants. 
It  has  seven  churches,  two  banks,  three  grist  mills,  two 
foundries,  and  the  largest  cloth  factory  in  the  Province. 
It  is  also  the  seat  of  Victoria  College,  and  Theological 
Institute.  Midway  between  Port  Hope  and  Cobourg 
is  "Duck  Island,"  on  which  a  lighthouse  is  maintained 
by  the  government. 

FROM   KINGSTON  TO   MONTREAL. 

The  Mail  Line,  or  Richelieu  Co.'s  boats,  leave  Kings- 
ton every  morning  at  five  o'clock.  As  we  proceed  down 
the  river,  a  description  of  the  city  will  be  in  order. 

Kingston  has  a  population  of  15,000,  was  founded  in 
1672,  by  Governor  De  Courcelles,  receiving  the  name  of 
Fort   Cataraqui.      Later,   a    massive    stone    fort    was 


7S 

built  by  Count  De  Frontenac,  and  received,  his  name. 
Ii'  1762  the  place  was  taken  by  the  British,  who  gave  it 
its  present  name.  As  a  place  of  defense  it  stands  next 
in  strength  to  Quebec.  The  batteries  of  Fort  Henry 
are  calculated  for  the  reception  of  numerous  cannon 
and  mortars  of  the  largest  calibre.  These  together 
with  neighboring  martello  towers,  form  a  formidable 
defense  against  any  aggressive  movement  which  might 
be  directed  against  the  city.  These  fortifications  are 
seen  to  excellent  advantage  from  the  steamer  soon  after 
it  leaves  the  dock. 

On  the  right  is  (iarden  Island  ;  on  the  left,  Cedar 
Island,  and  behind  is  Fort  Henry.  There  is  here,  also 
in  view,  the  round  stone  towers  referred  to  above.  Near 
the  middle  of  the  river  is  Wolf  or  Lon^^  Island,  21  miles 
long,  and  7  miles  wide  near  the  western  end.  There  is 
nothing  either  of  romance  or  historical  episode  to  weave 
into  our  story  concerning  the  inhabitants  of  this,  the 
largest  of  the  Thousand  Island  group.  Suffice  It 
to  say,  that  the  territory  is  a  portion  of  the  Dominion  of 
Canada,  and  that  the  habits  of  "ivilized  life  charac- 
terize the  people.  A  Canal  is  cu'  inmui^h  Wolf  Island 
and  the  Steamer  Maud  runs  through,  ionrr.ig  a  ferry  to 
Cape  Vincent,  N.  Y.  Between  ouc  ■  aannel  and  the 
main  land  there  is  St.  John's  or  Howe  Island,  of  no  mean 
proportions. 

Ordinarily,  we  have  now  spent  about  one  hour  on  the 
steamer  from  Kingston,  and  come  to  the  point  in  the 
channel  where  we  must  diverge  either  for  Gananoque 
or  Clayton.  We  are  bound  for  Clayton  and  the  \meri- 
can  channel  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River.  (For  descrip- 
i.ion  of  Oananoque  and  the  Canadian  channel,  see  Route 
of  the  *  IslaLf)  Wanderer,  "  page  49.) 


i\ 


A 


79 


-■■simmf^'  ."^ 


The  time  is  early  morning,  the  sun  quite  bright,  and 
the  atmosphere  remarkably  clear.  The  scene  is  now 
attractive.  Look  ahead  in  the  distance  a  little  to  the 
left,  and  you  will  behold  the  eagle  tree.  Hundreds 
have  been  deceived  with  the  idea  that  it  was  an  actual 
live  eagle,  spreading  its  wings  and  soaring  aloft  to  a 
height  that  the  imagination  can  scarcely  reach.  It  is  a 
delusion  ;  'tis  nothing  but  a  tree,  as  its  true  features,  or 
rather  beautiful  foliage,  has  deceived  the  eye  of  the 
novice  of  this  region. 

On  the  left  is  Grindstone  Island.  On  it  is  an  organ- 
ized community.  The  inhabitants  are  farmers,  and  for 
the  education  of  whose  children  a  school  is  maintained. 
The  Island  Grindstone  derived  its  name  from  a  vessel 
loaded  with  grindstones  striking  the  Island  under  full 
sail,  the  vessel  sank  but  the  grindstones  floated.  Tell- 
ing this  story  one  day  to  a  crowd  of  passengers,  one  of 
the  ladies,  Mrs.  E.  P.  Hannaford,  wife  of  the  chief 
engineer  of  the  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.,  added  that  she 
knew  the  circumstances  and  that  the  Anchor  swam 
ashore.  This  caused  me  to  smile,  when  she  added, 
"That  was  the  captain's  name."  On  the  right  is  Clay- 
ton. 

It  may  be  well  to  state  here  that  authorities  (?)  <  'er 
as  to  how  many  islands  there  really  are.  Son  say 
fifteen  hundred  ;  some  eighteen  hundred,  and  .aers 
carefully  write,  nearly  two  thousand.  Life  is  tO'  short 
for  us  to  stop  and  count  these  natural  beauties,  and 
even  the  pilots  have  no  desire  to  win  fame  as  atisti- 
cians  by  asserting  the  correct  number.  The  *'  Phat 
Boy  "  has  just  issued  the  only  correct  map  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  River  published,  which  will  not  be  misleading 
to  the  student  of  the  minute  details.     But  we  digress. 


8o 

CAPE  VINCENT 

is  a  pleasant  little  village  in  Jefferson  county,  N.  Y.,  at 
the  junction  of  Lake  Ontario  and  the  St.  Lawrence 
River.  It  is  also  the  terminus  of  the  Rome,  Watertown 
&  Ogdensburg  Railroad,  and  connections  are  made 
here  with  the  Thousand  Island  Steamboat  Company's 
line  of  steamboats.  This  company  owns  most  of  the 
steamboats  which  ply  through,  around,  across  or  other- 
wise in  the  Thousand  Islands.  Among  the  fleet  may 
be  found  the  palace  steamers  "  St.  Lawrence, "  "  Island- 
er," "Maynard,"  "Jessie  Bain,"  "Maud,"  etc.,  etc., 
one  of  which  will  convey  passengers  arriving  by  R.,  W. 
&  O.  R.  R.  to  Alexandria  Bay.  Connections  are  made 
to  Kingston  by  steamer  "  Maud.  " 

A  canal  having  been  constructed  through  Wolf  Island 
the  steamer  "  Maud  "passes  through  thus  saving  a  trip 
above  the  head  of  Wolf  Island  or  about  the  same  dis- 
tance passing;  around  the  foot  to  reac'  Kingston,  since 
the  N.  Y.  C.  &  H.  R.  R.  became  lessees  of  the  R.,  W. 
&  O.  a  bridge  is  contemplated  to  cross  the  river  at 
Cape  Vincent,  to  connect  it  with  Kingston,  Canada. 

Let  us  here  describe  the  American  channel  from  Cape 
Vincent. 

As  we  steam  out  of  this  port,  on  the  left  is  Long  or 
Wolf  Island.     The  next  on  the  right  is 

CARLTON  ISLAND. 

At  the  upper  extremity  the  land  narrows  into  a  rugged 
promontory,  ending  in  a  bluff  sixty  feet  in  height. 
Here,,  lifting  their  ruined  heads  aloft,  and  plainly 
visible  to  all  passers  along  the  river,  stand  a  number  of 
toppling  aiid  half  ruined  chimneys.     These  maybe  seen 


at 


or 


8i 

for  miles  around.  So  long  have  these  old  sentinels 
watched  over  the  scenes  that  their  history  is  lost  in  the 
misty  past.  Around  them  are  the  remaining  ruins  of 
an  old  fort,  supposed  by  many  to  be  the  ruins  of  old 
Fort  Frontenac.  In  its  old  redoubts  and  parapets  linger 
antiquated  historical  legends  and  traditions  enough  to 
fill  a  volume,  which  has  been  lately  published  by  the 
editor  of  the  Si  Lawrence.  News^  of  Clayton,  N.  Y., 
forming  an  interesting  study.  A  copy  was  presented  to 
me  by  the  publisher,  but  has  been  mislaid  and  cannot 
be  found.  An  ancient  well,  cut  in  the  solid  Trenton 
limestone  down  to  the  level  of  the  lake,  has  been  con- 
verted by  the  reckless  imaginations  of  the  natives  into 
a  receptacle  of  the  golden  doubloons  which  the  French 
soldiers,  upon  evacuating  the  old  fort,  are  said  to  have 
thrown  there,  with  the  brass  guns  on  top  of  them. 
Upon  either  side  and  immediately  in  front  .  "  the  bluff 
upon  which  the  old  fort  stands,  is  a  quiet,  pretty  little 
bay,  which  may  once  have  supplied  a  safe  and  easy 
anchorage  for  the  vessels  that  lay  under  its  protecting; 
guns. 

The  fortress  is  supposed  to  have  been  one  of  import- 
ance as  a  military  post  at  some  time,  having  been  built 
upon  an  excellent  plan  and  in  the  most  substantial 
manner.  Numbers  of  graves  still  occupy  a  field  near 
by,  the  remains  of  the  brave  soldiers  who  once  occupied 
the  fort.  The  scene  is  of  deep  interest  to  the  student 
of  history.  This  island  has  been  purchased  by  the 
Folger  Brothers,  and  laid  out  in  villa  lots.  A  grand 
barbecue  and  sale  was  held  here  in  1889  and  many  lots 
were  purchased  by  wealthy  parties  who  intend  to  build 
upon  the  Island  the  coming  season,  and  I  have  no 
doubt  this  will  be  one  of  the  most  popular  resorts  of 


82 


the  Thousand  Islands.     It  is  also  used  for  picnics  and 
pleasure  parties. 

About  six  miles  this  side  of  Clayton  is  Lindsay 
Island,  the  only  one  on  the  right  between  Cape  Vincent 
and  Clayton,  except  Carlton  Island  just  spoken  of. 

CLAYTON 

If  '"^.  the  American  channel.  In  the  distant  front,  just 
betore  landing,  we  have  a  magnificent  view  of  Prospect 
Park  and  hill,  a  delightful  spot  for  recreation  and 
pleasure.  No  better  view  can  be  had  of  the  islands 
and  surrounding  country  than  from  the  eminence  of  the 
hill.  Clayton  is  our  first  stopping  place.  It  is  a  village 
that  derives  its  importance  to  tourists  as  being  the 
terminus  of  the  R.,  W.  &  O.  R.  R.,  Utica  and  Black 
River  Division,  and  here  it  is  where  passengers  from 
the  East  generally  get  their  first  glimpse  of  the  St. 
Lawrence.  There  are  three  good  hotels,  the  Hubbard, 
Walton  and  the  Windsor ;  kept  by  as  genial  landlords 
.as  ever  lived,  and  from  the  town  many  fishing  parties  go 
out  daily.  The  Thousand  Island  Company  steamers 
«"un  from  this  point  in  connection  with  the  above  named 
railroads  to  Alexandria  Bay  and  other  landing  places 
<?«  rouU.  Opposite  Clayton,  on  the  left,  as  we  proceed 
down  the  river,  is  Governor  Island,  owned  by  Hon. 
Thomas  G.  Alvord,  of  Syracuse.  Next  to  Gov.  Alvord's 
Isle,  on  the  left,  is  Calumet,  five  acr-es,  owned  by  Chas. 
G.  Emery,  of  Old  Judge  cigarette  and  tobacco  fame , 
who  has  lavishly  expended  a  large  amount  of  money  for 
comfort.  His  villa  and  apartments  are  quite  striking, 
having  i,ooo  feet  of  dockage  and  a  stone  wall  all  around 
the    island,    4,300    feet— the    only    island    having   an 


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83 

elevation  of  35  feet  and  a  perfect  soil,  all  productive. 
He  purchased  the  steam  yacht  **  Calumet,"  said  to  be 
one  of  the  fastest  yachts  on  the  river.  The  next  island 
on  the  left,  about  200  yards  distant,  is  Powder  Horn. 
The  origin  of  this  "  euphonious  "  name  has  not  been 
handed  down  by  tradition.  On  the  right  is  Washington 
Island  ;  on  the  left  nearly  opposite,  is  Bluff  Island  ; 
behind  which  is  Robin's  Island.  Next  on  the  right 
over  two  miles  from  Clayton,  is 

ROUND  ISLAND 

and  park.  This  is  the  property  of  the  Baptist  Associa- 
tion, and  every  year  people  of  this  persuasion,  in  large 
numbers,  gather  for  religious  worship  and  recreation. 
There  is  a  hotel,  fitted  up  with  the  modern  appointments, 
for  the  accommodation  of  300  guests,  named  the  "  Hotel 
Frontenac,"  which  opens  June  27th  this  year  and  will 
remain  throughout  the  month  of  September.  This  hotel 
has  always  been  patronized  by  the  better  class  of  tourists 
and  Thousand  Island  visitors.  This  season  it  will  be 
under  the  able  management  of  C.  W.  MacAvoy,  and  I 
am  positive,  after  looking  up  his  record  as  a  hotel  man, 
you  cannot  regret  making  a  stay  at  the  Frontenac. 
Docks  are  in  excellent  condition,  and  the  fishing  boats 
are  favorites.  On  the  left  is  Little  Round  Island  and 
"  Hog's  Back."  We  have  now  several  cottages  in  view  ; 
the  one  painted  dark  brown  is  owned  by  Mr.  Harbodle. 
On  the  point  is  Ethelridge  cottage,  and  many  others  not 
known  to  me,  as  they  spring  up  as  quickly  as  mush- 
rooms do  in  an  open  field. 

Leaving  Round  Island,  and  looking  in  the  distant 
front,  we  have  a  view  of  the  Thousand  Island  Park. 
About  one  mile  from  Round  Island,  on  the  right,  is 


84 

Watch  Island  or  "  Indolence,"  owned  by  S.  T.  Skinner. 
On  the  left  are  Bluff,  Maple  and  Hemlock,  the  three 
pretty  islands  fronting  the  foot  of  Grindstone  Island. 
On  Hemlock  is  the  Cliff  House,  owned  by  Mr.  Garrison, 
of  Syracuse.  The  island  has  been  purchased  by  the 
1,000  Island  Investment  Company  and  is  called  Murray 
Hill  Park.  This  energy  displayed  if  kept  up  will  soon 
make  this  the  spot  among  the  1,000  Islands.  About  five 
minutes  after  leaving  Round  Island,  we  come  on  the 
left  in  sight  of  Hub  Island.  A  large  hotel,  the  Hub 
House,  occupied  this  sight,  but  was  burned  in  March, 
1884  ;  Grinnell's  Island  and  Pullman  House  ;  Otsego 
Camp  is  also  on  the  left.  On  the  right  is  Fisher's  land- 
ing, Robinson's  Island,  owned  by  Eugene  Robinson, 
New  York,  banker  and  broker,  (he  broke  Drew).  This 
island  was  purchased  by  W.  C.  McCord  of  New  York. 
Johnson's  Light,  Washburn  Island  and  Frederick  Island. 
Mr.  Johnson,  the  original  light-house  keeper,  and  after 
whom  the  island  is  named,  was  the  man  who  burned  the 
"  Robert  Peel,"  the  English  vessel  in  retaliation  for 
sending  the  "  Caroline  "  over  Niagara  Falls. 

Just  before  landing  at  Thousand  Island  Park,  upper 
end  of  Wells  Island,  is  Twin  Island,  owned  by  J.  L. 
Huntington.  Also  Castle  "  Fannie  "  Chase  owned  by 
the  Rev.  W.  Demster  Chase,  of  New  York.  On  the  left, 
and  in  connection  with  the  Thousand  Island  Park,  is  the 
bath  house,  (in  a  dilapidated  condition),  where  the 
Methodists  formerly  received  baptism,  a  la  Bob  Inger- 
soll,  with  soap.  Said  to  be  good  for  this  world,  if  not 
hereafter.    We  now  land  at 

THOUSAND  ISLAND  PARK. 

The  boat  stops  at  the  western  end  of  Wells  Island,  at 
a  fine  wharf  and  close  to  a  large  number  of  handsome 


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85 

cottages.  You  can  tell  what  the  place  is  the  minute 
you  approach  it.  There  is  no  mistaking  a  Methodist 
Summer  Camp,  find  it  where  you  will.  It  is  always  neat 
and  clean  and  orderly.  This  is  the  Thousand  Island 
Park,  a.  Methodist  resort,  opened  in  1873.  Although 
the  scenery  is  somewhat  marred  by  the  great  number  of 
solemn-faced  clergymen  strolling  about  the  grounds,  it 
is  still  one  of  the  most  beautiful  spots  to  be  found 
among  the  islands.  Camp  meetings  are  held  here  ;  also 
Sunday  school  and  temperance  and  educational  con- 
ventions, and  other  meetings  all  through  the  summer. 
A  large  and  spacious  hotel  was  opened  July  loth,  1883, 
and  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  August,  1890.  It  was 
rebuilt  last  season  and  will  be  open  sometime  in  July. 
The  name  was  originally  Thousand  Island  Camp  ground, 
but  was  changed  in  1878  to  its  present  name. 

Again  on  our  way,  the  first  house  on  the  left  is  owned 
by  Harlow  J.  Remington,  of  Ilion,  N.  Y.,  whose  fame 
and  fortune  are  in  Rifles.  The  Island  fronting  the  Bay 
was  purchased  by  Messrs.  Ocumpaugh  and  Furman,  two 
of  Rochester's  favorite  business  men.  It  contains  about 
thirty  building  lots.  I  hope  soon  to  see  several  fine  cot- 
tages erected  thereon.  Next  on  the  left  is  Fine  View 
House  and  beautiful  cottage.  On  the  left,  handsome 
villas  line  the  shore  of  the  island.  About  half  a  mile 
from  Fine  View  House  is  Jolly  Oak  Point  with  its  four 
cottages,  two  owned  by  the  Norton  brothers,  a  third  by 
Dr.  Ferguson,  and  the  fourth  by  Hon.  W.  W.  Butter- 
field,  of  Redwood.  From  here  to  Lookout  Point  is 
about  half  a  mile  ;  and  next  is  Rood's  place,  with  a  fine 
dock  and  good  accommodations  for  tourists.  About 
two  hundred  yards  below  is  Peel's  dock,  where  the  boat 
"  Robert  Peel "  was  burned   in    1837.     This  dock   was 


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86 

rebuilt  in  1884.  Robin's  cottage,  one  hundred  feet  to 
the  left,  is  Island  Blanch,  owned  by  E.  D.  Buckingham  ; 
a  little  below  on  the  right  is  the  farm  of  Captain  Jack  ; 
you  can  see  the  old  saw-mill  in  a  dilapidated  condition 
on  the  bank.  Opposite  on  the  left  is  the  celebrated 
Limburger  cheese  factory.  (Post  mortem  examination 
held  here  weekly.)  (This  "  goak  "  would  take  better  if 
you  were  just  introduced  to  Limburger  for  the  first 
time.)  On  the  right  is  Collins'  dock  ;  below,  a  few  feet, 
is  Calumet  Island  and  cottage,  owned  by  Oliver  H. 
Green,  No.  6  Calumet  court,  Boston,  Mass.  On  the 
right  lies  the  remains  of  old  Captain  Jack's  Boat  gone 
to  rest.  *  *  *  *  Here  you  are  expected  to  drop  a 
tear.  Brown's  Bay  on  the  left  and  Swan  Bay  on  the 
right.  The  next  island  on  the  right  is  owned  by  Harri- 
son Stillman  and  is  named  St.  Helena,  and  has  a  very 
fine  representation  of  the  tomb  of  Napoleon.  Passing 
the  bays,  we  come  on  the  right  to  Central  Park,  for- 
merly Grinnel's  Point  and  parade  ground,  purchased 
by  parties  and  laid  out  for  a  park.  Several  large  and 
beautiful  cottages  were  built  last  season  and  many  con- 
templated for  this  season.  On  the  left  opposite  on  the 
bluff,  is  Hill's  Crest,  owned  by  General  Shields,  of  Phil- 
adelphia, Pa.  Foot  of  Central  Park  is  Page  Point,  a 
former  wood  station  for  the  N.  T.  Co's  line  of  steamers. 
On  the  right  is 

POINT  VIVIAN. 

Point  Vivian  is  situated  on  the  main  shore  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  River,  about  two  and  one-half  miles 
from  Alexandria  Bay.  It  was  formerly  owned  by  Cap- 
tain W.  H.  Houghton,  and  was  purchased  by  Messrs. 
George  Ivers,  John  J.  Kinney,  Isaac  A.  Wood,  Dr.  L. 


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87 


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E.  Jones,  R.  Barnes,  Rezot  Tozer,  and  E.  Hungerford, 
in  the  fall  of  1877  (all  of  Evans  Mills,  N.  Y.).  They 
had  it  ^surveyed  into  forty  building  lots,  with  parks, 
avenues  and  streets.  A  magnificent  dock  was  built  two 
hundred  feet  long,  and  any  boat  from  a  skiff  to  an 
ocean  steamer  can  land  here. 

Opposite  point  Vivian  on  the  left  is  Island  Royal, 
owned  by  Royal  E,  Deane,  of  New  York,  firm  of  Bra- 
mall,  Deane  &  Co.  Mr.  Deane  is  a  very  enthusiastic 
lover  of  the  scenery  as  well  as  the  hunting  and  fishing 
in  this  vicinity,  coming  to  this,  his  summer  home,  quite 
early  in  the  spring,  and  often  remaining  until  winter 
fairly  sets  in,  for  nowhere  else  can  he  get  such  a  variety 
of  fish  and  game,  and  have  the  surroundings  so  agree- 
able. Next  on  the  left  is  Shady  Covert,  owned  by 
Editor  J.  C.  Covert  of  the  Cleveland  Leader. 

After  leaving  Point  Vivian,  on  the  right  is  Curtice 
Point  and  Cottage,  which  joins  Rose  Island  by  a  bridge. 
Here  is  where  Mayor  W.  G.  Rose,  of  Cleveland  Ohio, 
enjoys  his  summers.  The  next  is  Allegheny  Point, 
owned  by  J.  S.  Laney,  of  Pittsburgh,  Pa.  The  fence  was 
built  to  keep  the  children  from  falling  into  the  river. 
Opposite  on  the  left  is  Seven  Isles,  owned  by  General 
Bradley  Winslow.  Next  on  the  right  is  Ritter's  Heights 
owned  by  Mr.  Frank  Ritter,  of  Rochester,  N.  Y., 
beyond  is  Keppler  Point,  Bella  Vista  Lodge,  owned  by 
F.  A.  Bosworth,  of  Milwaukee,  Wis.  This  property, 
Bella  Vista  Lodge,  was  sold  to  Mr.  R.  B.  Chisholm,  of 
Cleveland,  O.  Centennial,  now  Nah-Mahbin,  meaning 
Twin  Island  or  Lakes,  is  owned  by  Mr.  J.  H.  Oliphant, 
of  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.  Comfort,  in  close  proximity,  is 
owned  by  A.  E.  Clark,  of  the  Chicago,  III.,  Board  of 
Trade.  His  is  the  largest  and  finest  cottage  of  the  group. 


sausasvwaaa 


88 

Next  is  H.  H.  Warner's  Island,  upon  which  $50,000  has 
been  expended  in  the  erection  of  his  new  cottage. 
Beyond  this  is  Hill's  Island.  This  gentleman  has 
expended  a  large  amount  of  money  in  building  a  stone 
wall  around  the  same  and  in  many  ways  beautifying  the 
surroundings.  Next  on  the  right  is  Devil's  Rock  and 
Oven — owned  by  H.  R.  Heath,  of  New  York.  On  the 
left  is  Louisiana  Point,  owned  by  Judge  LeBatte,  of  New 
Orleans.  Next  on  the  left  is  Craig's  Side,  owned  by  H. 
A.  Laughin,  of  Pittsburgh,  Pa.  On  the  right  is  Cuba 
Isle,  owned  by  W.  F.  Storey,  of  Buffalo,  N.  Y.  A  little 
farther  on  is  Edgewood  Park,  owned  by  a  Cleveland 
stock  company  who  erected  an  elegant  hotel,  which  was 
opened  in  1887,  and  contemplate  many  changes  the 
coming  season  ;  also  Edgewood  Cottage,  owned  by  G. 
C.  Martin,  of  Watertown,  N.  Y.  Next  on  the  right  is 
Cherry  Isle,  upon  which  are  erected  several  cottages  ; 
the  first  is  owned  by  the  Rev.  George  Rockwell,  of  Ful- 
ton, N.  Y.  ;  and  J.  T.  Easton's  Villa,  of  Brooklyn.  N.'  Y. 
Mr.  Easton,  of  Brooklyn,  erected  a  handsome  villa, 
called  Stuyvesant  Cottage,  which  he  occupied  during  the 
season.  The  two  large  cottages  are  owned  by  A.  B. 
Pullman  and  C.  B.  Marsh,  of  Chicago,  111.,  named  Ingle- 
side  and  Melrose  Lodge.  Here  the  Hon.  John  A.  Logan 
and  wife  were  entertained  for  several  days  in  1885. 
Opposite  on  the  left  is  "The  Towers,"  owned  by 
Mr.  W.  C.  Browning,  of  Browning,  King  &  Co ,  New 
York,  Pullman,  Nobby,  Friendly,  St.  Elmo,  Welcome^ 
Florence,  Linlithgow  and  Imperial.  This  group  may  be 
seen  in  the  order  given  ;  beyond  is  Westminster  Park^ 
Hart's  Island,  Fairy  Land  and  Deshler.  We  now  shoot 
into 


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ALEXANDRIA  BAY, 

which  is  three  or  four  miles  long  and  one  and  a  half 
miles  wide,  reaching  from  the  shore  on  the  American 
side  to  Wells  Island.  The  chief  feature  around  here  is 
the  grand  hotels.  The  Crossmon  House,  and  Thousand 
Island  House  are  the  two  largest  hotels  and  being 
situated  on  the  river  front  give  the  guests  a  delightful 


view. 


WESTMINSTER  PARK. 


Opposite  Alexandria  Bay  on  the  lower  end  of  Wells 
Island.  This  island  is  eight  miles  long  and  from  three 
to  four  miles  wide.  On  the  other  side  of  this  island  is 
the  Canadian  channel  of  the  river,  about  half  a  mile 
wide.  The  lower  end  of  the  island  is  separated  into 
two  parts  by  one  of  the  prettiest  sheets  of  water  that 
ever  rippled  against  the  bows  of  a  canoe.  This  is 
called  the  "  Lake  of  the  Island,"  and  is  connected  with 
the  river  on  both  the  American  and  Canadian  sides  by 
a  narrow  channel.  The  lake  is  five  or  six  miles  long, 
as  smooth  as  glass,  and  is  altogether  too  pretty  and 
too  romantic  to  attempt  a  description. 

Westminster  Park  was  bought  in  1874  by  a  Presby- 
terian stock  company,  and  it.  now  has  about  fifteen  miles 
of  drives  and  some  fine  buildings.  It  has  two  long 
water  fronts — one  on  the  American  side  of  the  river 
and  the  other  on  the  Lake  of  the  Island,  on  the  Cana- 
dian side.  There  is  a  high  hill  on  the  island  called 
Mount  Beulah,  though  after  climbing  it  I  think  the 
Hill  Difficulty  would  be  a  more  appropriate  name. 
There  is  a  large  chapel  on  the  top  of  the  hill,  known  as 
Bethune  Chapel,  with  seating  accommodations  for  a 
thousand  persons,  and  with  a  tower  136  feet  high,  (was 


90 

blown  down  in  March,  1885).  The  name  of  the  chapel 
recalls  the  fact  that  the  late  Rev.  Dr.  Geo.  W.  Bethune 
was  the  poineer  tourist  through  this  region,  who  until 
his  death  continued  to  come  here  summer  after  summer 
for  recreation.  A  new  church  is  now  being  erected  a 
short  distance  from  the  hotel. 


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BOKNIE  CASTLE. 

"Timothy  Titcomb"  (Dr.  J.  G.  Holland,  editor  o 
Scribncr's  Monthly),  chose  this  place  as  a  haven  of  rest 
and  recuperation,  and  who  does  not  commend  his 
choice  ?  It  will  be  remembered  that  he  died  in  New 
York  shortly  after  leaving  his  cherished  Bonnie  Castle 
in  1881,  for  his  arduous  winter's  labors.  Next  is  The 
Ledges,  owned  by  C.  J.  Hudson,  of  New  York.  Light- 
house in  the  distance. 

Immediately  opposite    is    Hart's  Island ;   back    of 
which  is  Deshler.     Next  on  the  left  is  ' 


MANHATTAN, 

the  first  island  on  which  habitation  was  attempted.  It 
was  bought  by  Mr.  Seth  Green,  the  fish  culturist  of  N. Y., 
in  1855.  He  built  a  cottage  upon  it  and  for  several 
years  spent  his  summers  here.  Mr.  J.  L.  Hasbrouck 
and  Judge  J.  C.  Spencer,  of  New  York,  purchased  it 
from  him.  They  have  spent  $15,000  upon  the  island. 
The  original  cottages  built  by  Seth  Green  still  remain 
and  are  used  by  them  as  dining  rooms,  etc.  Beyond  is 
St.  John's  Island,  owned  by  Judge  Donohue,  of  New 
York. 

Between  Deshler  and  Manhattan,  looking  backward, 
is  Fairyland,  owned  by  C,  H.  and  W.  B.  Hayden,  of 


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91 

Columbus,  Ohio.  This  is  really  one  of  the  finest  islands 
in  the  river.  At  a  vast  expense  art  has  triumphed  over 
nature,  transforming  a  barren  into  the  loveliest  of  green 
lawns.     Next  on  the  left  is  Deer  Island  ;  then 

SUMMERLAND. 

Summerland,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  groups  of  the 
"  Thousand  Islands,"  is  located  mid-way  between  the 
north  and  south  channels  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  about 
three  miles  below  Alexandria  Bay,  having  an  are?  of 
fourteen  acres,  and  is  the  largest  of  the  "  Summerland 
group,"  which  includes  "Idlewild,"  "Sport,"  "Ida,'' 
and  "  Arcadia. "  The  island  is  covered  with  a  dense 
forest  (furnishing  an  abundance  of  shade)  and  is  said  to 
have  the  finest  groves  on  the  river.  At  the  extreme 
northerly  and  southerly  ends  of  the  Island  there  are 
extensive  sand  beaches,  a  great  rarity  in  this  locality, 
which  are  used  by  the  "  Summerlanders  "  for  bathing 
purposes.  The  island  is  traversed  from  end  to  end  by 
the  most  delightful  natural  avenue,  densely  shaded  and 
lined  on  either  side  with  a  thick  undergrowth  of  wild 
flowers  and  ferns.  The  island  is  owned  by  the  Summer- 
land  Association,  a  corporation  organized  under  and 
by  virtue  of  the  laws  of  the  State  of  New  York. 

Between  Deer  Island  and  Summerland  is  Cedar  ;  back 
of  Cedar  is  Sport,  owned  by  the  estate  of  H.  A.  Packer, 
who  died  in  1884.  The  island,  however,  will  be  occu- 
pied this  year  by  E.  P.  Wilbur,  who  has  purchased  the 
Packers'  interest.  Anthony  point  is  on  the  right.  Also 
The  Ledges,  owned  by  J.  C.  Hudson,  of  New  York. 

Still  continuing  our  course  looking  to  the  right,  is 
the  cottage  of  Mrs.  Clark,  of  Watertown.  Next,  Goose 
Bay  is  the  island  owned  by  Dr.  Carleton,  near  which  is 


92 


the  Three  Sisters'  Island  ;  before  the  Three  Sisters  is 
Hume's  Island.  Next,  on  the  left,  is  Whiskey  Island, 
and  on  the  right,  opposite,  are  a  number  of  large  and 
small  islands,  the  names  of  which  we  will  not  weary  the 
tourist's  brain  with. 

Goose  Bay  is  really  beautiful,  if  its  name  is  slightly 
homely.  It  is  studded  with  islands  and  fishing  abounds. 
It  is  here  that  Mr.  Hubert  R.  Clark,  of  New  York,  in 
one  day  caught  some  300  pounds  of  black  bass,  rang- 
ing in  weight  from  i^  to  6^  pounds. 

On  the  right  is  Lyon's  dock  and  Meeker's  Island. 
Next,  on  the  left  is  Three  Sisters  Light  ;  in  the  distance 
is  Lone  Star,  or  Dark  Island  ;  island  No.  10,  it  is  called 
by  some.  After  passing,  on  the  left  is  a  small  cluster 
of  island  shoals.  On  the  right  is  Chippewa  Bay.  This 
is  a  superb  sheet  of  water,  where  the  fishing  is  a  marked 
feature.  It  is  a  favorite  resort  of  Ogdensburg  people, 
who  occupy  the  contiguous  islands.  This  property, 
"  Chippewa  Point "  and  Allen's  Park  and  dock,  Has 
been  purchased  by  a  wealthy  syndicate  who  propose 
erecting  a  commodious  hotel  and  each  member  build- 
ing for  his  own  use  a  handsome  villa.  I  look  to  see 
this  the  grandest  resort  among  the  Thousand  Islands. 
All  around  the  shore  are  camps,  cottages,  etc.,  and 
make  an  animated  scene  for  the  tourist. 

After  passing  Cross-over  Light,  and  before  reaching 
Cole's  Light,  we  come  in  sight  of  Union  Park.  It  was 
formerly  a  Methodist  camp  ground.  It  has  been  pur- 
chased by  a  Scotch  syndicate,  who  erected  a  large  hotel 
and  many  pretty  cottages.  Villas,  camps,  and  cottages 
line  the  shore  until  we  arrive  at  Gallenas  Place.  This 
was  built  for  the  purpose  of  having  a  resort  for  "  a  class" 
I  am  glad  to  say  do  not  thrive  on   the   St.  Lawrence. 


-1 


►•- 


'NfAaJMl 


t^ 


93 


-i 


Places  where  liquor  parties,  drunken  sprees  and  such 
like  have  been  started  many  times  on  this  rivei,  but 
have  been  short  lived. 

Hill  Crest  comes  first,  then  Fern  Bank,  formerly 
McDonald's  Point,  with  St.  Lawrence  Park  on  main 
land,  Crossitt's  Agricultural  Works  ;  McCullough  ;  Jno. 
F.  Wood  ;  Bowie  ;  Parker  Wilkinson  ;  Greenmore  and 
Kincade.  Then  we  come  in  sight  of  R.  B.  Hather's 
flower  and  fruit  farm,  his  fine  windmill  and  boat-house 
on  the  river  bank.  This  gentleman  supplies  the  Thou- 
sand Islanders  and  guests  at  the  hotels  with  flowers. 
He  is  recognized  as  the  florist  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
River.  A  Hather  buttonhole  bouquet  is  quite  neces- 
sary to  complete  one's  toilet,  and  many  times  has  the 
author  of  this  book  become  the  admiration  of  many  on 
account  of  the  large  bouquet  which  adorned  his  huge 
but  magnificent  physique.  The  next  on  the  left  is 
Smith's  Island,  owned  by  R.  H.  Smart,  a  hardware  mer- 
chant of  Brockville.  On  the  main  shore  beyond  is  River 
Cliff  and  many  pretty  villas,  including  Bay  View,  Cole's 
Island  on  the  left,  and  McLean's  cottage.  Just  before 
reaching  Brockville,  is  H.  A.  Field's  and  Geo.  A.  Dana's 
residence. 

In  front  of  Brockville  are  the  last  three  of  the  Thou- 
sand Islands ;  being  some  distance  from  the  rest  it  is 
presumable  they  drifted  away,  and  finally  rooted  here. 
This,  however,  was  "  long  befo'  de  wah  !  " 

Opposite,  on  the  right,  is  Morristown,  a  small  lively 
American  village  of  about  i,ooo  inhabitants,  a  station 
on  the  Utica  and  Black  River  R.  R.,  connects  with 
Brockville  by  two  steam  ferries. 


t*     ■  '■ 


\  \ 


94 


BROCKVILLE 

was  named  in  honor  of  General  Brock,  who  fell  in  the 
battle  of  Queenstown  Heights  in  1812.  It  is  situated 
on  the  Canadian  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  and  is 
one  of  the  pleasantest  villages  in  the  Province.  It  lies 
at  the  foot  of  the  Thousand  Islands  on  an  elevation  of 
land  which  rises  from  the  river  in  a  succession  of  ridges. 
The  town  was  laid  out  in  1802,  and  is  now  a  place  of 
considerable  importance.  The  present  population  is 
about  10,000. 

After  leaving  the  wharf,  the  boat  passes  the  most 
beautiful  cliff  on  the  river,  the  Palisades  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, on  which  are  erected  magnificent  mansions  and 
suburban  residences  and  villas  of  Canada's  distinguished 
sons.  The  most  prominent  of  these  is  the  son  of  Sir 
Hugh  Allen,  whose  residence  is  really  supurb.  The 
sightseer  can  observe  the  winding  stairs,  boat  and  bath 
houses  and  other  appointments  for  recreation.  ' 

Having  left  Brockville,  a  magnificent  view  greets  the 
eye  ;  islands  are  not  now  in  view  ;  the  river  is  a  most 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  running  perfectly  straight  for 
about  sixteen  miles  with  the  land  on  either  side  in  good 
view,  for  the  river  is  a  little  over  two  miles  wide.  Three 
miles  from  Morristown,  on  the  right,  is  a  camp  ground 
of  the  Baptist  persuasion,  mostly  from  St.  Lawrence 
County.  Five  miles  on  the  left  from  Brockville  is  Mait- 
land.  At  this  point  is  a  prominent  object  known  as  the 
old  distillery,  whose  proprietor  is  said  to  have  been 
worth  at  one  time,  a  million  dollars,  but  whose  cupidity 
during  "  America's  unpleasantness  "  led  him  into  selling 
"crooked  whiskey,"  or  rather  disposing  of  his  distillery 
products  in  a  very  "crooked  "  way.  Without  going  into 


i-r^.^"t-( 


i 


1   1 


y 


s-  t0A0'-x-'i 


1 


91 

the  details,  the  facts  in  brief  are  :  He  antagonized  the 
Canadian  government  in  the  matter  of  paying  revenue, 
and  in  his  fight  for  stupid  supremacy,  he  not  only  lost 
his  distillery,  but  his  fortune  too,  and  he  and  his  family 
became  reduced  to  poverty,  and  none  of  them  remain 
around  their  former  home.  It  is  said  he  first  induced 
his  niece  to  marry  the  revenue  collector  of  the  district, 
that  he  might  carry  on  the  nefarious  business  in  collu- 
sion and  without  detection,  but  you  see 

"  The  deep  laid  plans  of  mice  and  men  gang  aft  aglee." 

About  four  miles  below,  on  the  left,  is  the  old  blue 
stone  church,  in  the  graveyard  of  which  rests  the 
remains  of  the  founder  of  Methodism  on  this  continent, 
Barbara  Heck.  One  mile  further,  on  the  left,  is 
McCarthy's  new  brick  brewery.  Half  a  mile  beyond  is 
the  celebrated  Rysdick  stock  farm,  owned  by  J. P. Wiser, 
M.  P.  Here  is  owned  the  celebrated  stallion  Rysdick, 
which  cost  Mr.  Wiser  $25,000.  It  is  a  farm  of  about  six 
hundred  acres,  and  is  unquestionably  the  finest  stock 
farm  in  the  dominion  of  Canada.  The  thrift,  energy 
and  ability  of  this  gentleman  will  not  be  wondered  at 
when  it  is  learned  that  he  is  of  American  birth.  Next, 
on  the  left,  is  the  celebrated  Labatt's  brewery  and 

PRESCOTT, 

with  its  nearly  3,000  inhabitants,  who  seem  to  have  lost 
their  grip  on  the  trade  of  the  river,  judging  from  the 
dilapidated  conditition  of  the  stores,  warehouses,  etc., 
on  the  wharves.  The  town,  however,  is  handsomely  laid 
out,  has  a  fine  city  hall  and  market  and  new  postoffice, 
and  there  are  many  fine  private  residences.  It  is  con- 
nected with  Ottawa,  capital  of  the  Dominion,  by  the 


I 


Canada  Pacific  Railroad,  St.  Lawrence  and  Ottawa 
Railroad  Branch,  distance  54  miles.  Here  many  tourists 
who  desire  to  visit  the  capital  disembark  for  that  pur- 
pose. We  refer  the  tourists  to  Daniels'  hotel  as  a  good 
stopping  place.  L.  H.  Daniels  has  taken  the  hotel  and 
spent  $8,000  in  improvements  ;  he  is  too  well  known  to 
the  traveling  public  to  need  any  praise  from  me. 
Opposite  is 

OGDENSBURG, 

founded  by  Francis  Picquit  in  May,  1749.  It  now  con- 
tains about  15,000  people,  and  of  course  ranks  as  a  city. 
It  is  the  terminus  of  the  Rome  and  Watertown,  Utica 
and  Black  River,  and  the  Ogdensburg  and  Lake  Cham- 
plain  railroads.  It  is  beautifully  laid  out,  well  planted 
with  maple  trees,  and  is  called  the  "  Maple  City."  It 
has  a  United  States  Custom  House,  postofRce,  and  a 
new  opera  house,  costing  $15,000,  six  fine  church 
edifices,  water  works,  gas  works,  a  fire  alarm  telegraph 
and  two  daily  newspapers,  and  possibly  other  modern 
improvements.  Here  the  Oswegatchie  River  empties 
into  the  St.  Lawrence  ;  its  waters  are  of  a  dark  brown 
color.  At  the  lower  end  of  the  town  are  the  big  eleva- 
tors of  the  Ogdensburg  and  Lake  Champlain  Railroad, 
now  owned  by  the  Central  Vermont  Railroad.  Many 
tourists  start  from  here  in  the  morning,  reaching  every 
point  In  the  White  Mountains  before  tea  time. 

One  mile  and  a  half  below  Prescott  on  the  left,  is 
Windmill  Point ;  the  old  windmill  has  been  turned  into 
a  lighthouse.  Here,  in  1838,  the  "  Patriots,"  under 
Von  Schultz,  a  Polish  exile,  established  themselves,  but 
from  which  they  were  driven  with  severe  loss.  Mr.  C. 
Crossmon,  proprietor  of  the  Crossmon  House,  Alexan- 


m 


97 


\ 


dria  Bay,  N.  Y,  one  of  the  "  Patriots,"  was  taken 

prisoner  and  for  several  days  took  his  chances  with  the 
thirteen  selected  to  be  shot,  but  before  his  time  came 
he  was  released  on  account  of  his  tender  years,  being 
only  16  years  old.  He  is  looking  hale  and  hearty 
to-day  for  one  so  young.  We  believe  this  Von  Schultz 
was  subsequently  hung  by  the  Canadian  authorities, 
and  his  followers  banished,  probably  to  New  Jersey. 
On  the  left,  a  little  below  the  lighthouse,  is  the  residence 
and  farm  of  W.  H.  McCiannon,  the  oldest  pilot  on  the  St. 
Lawrence  river,  the  man  who  first  took  the  "  Passport," 
of  the  Richelieu  line,  down  the  Long  Sault  Rapids,  in 
July,  1847.  I  am  also  indebted  to  him  for  the  correct- 
ness of  my  New  Map  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  other 
information  of  benefit  to  me  and  the  public. 

About  half  a  mile  below,  on  the  right,  the  eye  may 
feast  on  the  St.  Lawrence  State  Hospital  for  the  Insane 
in  process  of  erection.  About  one  half  a  million  dollars 
was  secured  by  General  Curtis  for  the  enterprise,  and 
if  carried  out  as  projected,  this  will  be  the  finest  grounds 
and  hospital  in  the  country. 

Three  miles  below,  on  the  left,  is  Johnstown  Bay, 
with  Johnstown — not  a  very  important  trading  post — 
overlooking.  This  place  has  a  custom  house  officer, 
commissioner  of  fisheries,  mayor  and  marshal  of  the 
district ;  but  these  important  officials  are  concentrated  in 
one  man. 

We  turn  here  to  the  right,  leaving  the  far-famed 
Chimney  Island  on  the  left,  on  wh^ch  are  said  to  be  the 
remains  of  old  French  forts,  battlements,  etc.  The  only 
ruins  we  have  discovered  of  these  supposed  formid- 
able defences  is  an  extensive  moat  around  the  island, 
twelve  feet  deep,  filled  with  water.    The  chimney,  from 


98 


0 


which  it  derives  its  name,  is  supposed  to  be  on  the 
island,  but  we  have  looked  in  vain  to  discover  it.  It 
may  be,  however,  that  it  has  floated  down  the  river  ; 
we  will  speak  of  it  further  on. 

In  the  distance,  on  the  left,  are  Tick  or  Pier  Islands. 
Some  of  the  finest  bass  fishing  in  the  river  is  off  this 
old  pier.  Dr.  Melville,  of  Prescott,  the  inventor  of 
rheumatic  victor,  and  an  enthusiastic  fisherman  of  this 
section,  last  summer  caught  a  black  bass  weighing 
seven  and  one-half  pounds  while  enjoying  the  sport 
around  the  pier. 

Three  miles  from  Chimney  Island,  in  the  distance  is 
what  is  termed  "  the  cut,"  forming  the  channel  between 
Galop  and  Moore's  Islands.  It  was  the  former  channel 
of  this  line  of  boats,  but  the  Dominion  government  is 
expending  six  millions  of  dollars  for  the  enlargement  of 
the  canals  of  this  route,  and  the  survey  party  at  present 
are  blasting  a  channel  through  the  ' 

GALOP  RAPID, 

which  may  be  seen  in  the  distance.  The  reason  of  the 
change  of  channel  is  formed  with  an  edict  of  the  pilots 
not  to  interfere  with  the  work  of  the  engineer  corps 
engaged  on  this  necessary  improvement  of  excavating  a 
fifteen  foot  channel,  to  allow  larger  boats  to  pass,  and 
dispense  with  the  use  of  the  Edwardsburg  canal.  After 
five  years  of  waiting  and  trying  to  accomplish  their 
purpose,  the  scheme  of  blasting  out  the  channel  was 
dispensed  with  and  a  portion  of  the  canal  was  enlarged 
as  the  current  in  the  river  was  too  strong  for  boats  to 
come  up.  This  is  the  first  and  smallest  rapid  on  the 
St.  Lawrence  river,  and  as  the  Phat  Boy  has  termed  it, 
"a  little  one  for  a  cent."     I  will,  however,  give  you  an 


.  ^ 


99 


•f  the 
pilots 
corps 
[ting  a 
;,  and 
After 

their 
il  was 
arged 

.ts  to 
n  the 
led  it, 

)U  an 


idea  of  what  the  rapids  are.  All  the  rapids  on  this 
river  are  caused  by  numerous  rocks,  large  and  small,  in 
the  bed  of  the  river,  and  the  swift  current  of  water 
passing  over  these  rocks,  causes  the  fearful  commotion 
that  you  observe.  Now,  to  carry  our  philosophy  a  little 
farther,  we  say  the  larger  the  rock  and  the  stronger  the 
current  the  better  the  rapids.  No  rorks,  no  water,  no 
current,  no  rapids  !  This  commotion  v/hich  you  see  here 
is  caused  by  a  ledge  of  rocks,  five  and  one-half  feet  in 
height  under  nine  feet  of  water.  You  can  see  the  swell 
and  white  cap  which  this  rock  occasions,  and  then  use 
your  best  judgment  to  determine  the  height  of  the  rocks 
in  Long  Sault,  where  we  hope  to  arrive  at  one  o'clock. 
(There  are,  let  me  state  here,  eight  rapids  on  our  trip 
to-day,  which  may  be  divided  into  two  classes,  first  and 
second.  The  first  class  are  Long  Sault,  meaning  a  long- 
leap  or  jump  ;  Cedar,  deriving  its  name  from  the.  trees 
in  the  vicinity,  and  Lachine.  The  second  class  is  Galop, 
meaning  a  hopping,  jumping  rapid  ;  Rapid  Piatt,  mean- 
ing in  French  flat  ;  Chateau  du  Lac,  meaning  foot  of 
the  lake  ;  Split  Rock,  derived  from  a  fissure  which 
makes  the  channel,  and  the  Cascade,  from  its  resemblance 
to  a  cascade). 

On  the  left,  before  arriving  at  the  Galop  Rapids,  is 
the  entrance  to  the  Edwardsburg  canal.  This  canal  is 
seven  and  one-half  miles  in  length,  and  is  the  first  canaj 
we  arrive  at  ;  its  terminus  is  at  Iroquois.  It  would  be 
well  here  to  say  that  we  only  have  canals  around  the 
rapids,  or  where  the  current  is  too  strong  for  a  steamer 
to  ascend.     We  here  append  a  tabular  statement  of  the 

ST.   LAWRENCE  CANALS. 

Edwardsburg  canal  7)4  miles  long,  three  locks,  14 
feet  fall  in  the  river  ;  Morrisburg  canal,  4  miles  long,  2 


\i  i 


100 

locks,  11^  feet  fall  ;  Farrhn's  Point  canal  ^  mile  long, 
I  lock,  4  feet  fall  ;  Cornwall  canal,  12  miles  long,  7 
locks,  48  feet  fall  ;  Beauharnois  canal  11^,  miles  long, 
9  locks,  84  feet  fall  ;  Lachine  canal,  9  miles  long,  5 
locks,  45  feet  fall. 

In  the  distance,  on  the  left,  is  the  villa^  of  Edwards- 
burg,  now  called  Cardinal.  Here  is  located  the  Edwards- 
burg  starch  factory,  the  largest  in  the  Dominion  of 
Canada.  The  president  of  the  Company  is  the  Hon. 
Walter  Shanley  of  Hoosac  Tunnel  fame.  He  was  the 
great  contractor  who  completed  that  wonderful  piece 
of  work,  and  was  manager  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and 
Ottawa  Railroad. 

Twenty  minutes  from  Edwardsburg  to  the  next  point 
of  interest. 

Distinguished  among  Indian  names  is  that  of  Iroquois. 
Here.it  names  a  village,  formerly  known  as  Matilda  ; 
but,  like  all  other  good  Matildas  do,  she  changed  her 
name  to  Iroquois,  in  order  to  preserve  the  name.  The 
Iroquois  Indians  formerly  owned  this  section  of  country. 
One  and  a  half  miles  below  this  village,  is  the  narrowest 
point  in  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  from  Kingston  to  the 
gulf.  This  broad  expanse  of  water  we  are  just  passing, 
and  the  one  we  arrive  at  immediately  after  leaving  the 
point,  are  very  shallow,  consequently  holds  the  water 
in  check  at  the  point — the  depth  of  water  in  the  shallow 
places  being  about  22  feet  while  at  the  point  it  is  84 
feet.  Width  of  the  river  1,140  feet — 180  feet  less  than 
a  quarter  of  a  mile. 

On  the  right  in  the  narrowest  portion  of  the  river  is 
Cedar  Point.  On  the  left  is  a  small  bluff,  formerly 
called  Hemlock  Point,  ou  account  of  a  fine  hemlock 
standing  there  ;  but  on  one  fine  morning  the  hemlock, 


^ustt^^poe^  X 


l4a:^: 


lOI 


the  tree  and  the  point  all  slid  into  the  river,  and  have 
not  yet  returned.  About  fifteen  feet  back  from  the 
point  is  a  rail  fence,  which  is  outside  of  the  earth  works 
that  were  thrown  up  in  1812-13,  and  batteries  were 
erected  on  Cedar  Point. 

On  the  left  is  the  main  shore  of  the  Dominion  of 
Canada  with  a  population  of  over  six  millions.  On  the 
right  is  the  main  shore  of  the  United  States  of  America, 
with  a  population  of  over  sixty  millions.  When  the  six 
millions  want  the  sixty  millions  all  they  will  be  obliged 
to  do  is  to  walk  over  and  take  them.  Then  will  be 
verified  that  beautiful  passage  in  Holy  Writ  which  says, 
"  One  shall  chase  a  thousand  and  two  put  ten  thousand 
to  flight."     Sing ! 

This  was  really  a  strong  point,  and  was  fortified  on 
both  sides  of  the  river  by  the  opposing  parties.  From 
the  fact  of  the  successful  fortification  by  the  Americans 
the  Rideau  Canal  owes  its  origin.  Guns  and  stores  or 
merchandise  could  not  be  taken  up  the  river.  It  was 
conceived  by  Colonel  By,  of  the  engineer  corps,  that  a 
new  canal  would  obviate  the  difficulty,  and  all  his 
resources  were  immediately  put  into  requisition,  and  the 
canal  was  completed  at  a  cost  of  $5,000,000.  It  extends 
from  Ottawa,  formerly  By-town,  to  Kingston,  and  is 
still  in  use. 

Ten  minutes  from  here  to  the  next  point  of  interest. 
On  the  left  is  the  entrance  to  the  Morrisburg  Canal,  the 
second  canal  in  the  chain,  but  it  is  not  used  by  this  line 
of  boats.  All  tows  and  sailing  vessels  have  to  use  the 
canals.  In  the  distant  front  is  rapid  Piatt  :  on  the  right 
is  Ogden's  Island,  the  finest  wooded  Island  in  the  St. 
Lawrence.  Beyond  is  Waddington,  St.  Lawrence 
County,  N.  Y.     In   front   is  this   rapid  we  have  just 


102 


named  ;  it  is  the  second  one,  and  is  "  a  little  one  for 
two  cents."  It  has,  however,  eight  feet  more  descent 
than  the  first,  but  is  only  a  one  cent  descenter  rapid. 

• 

MORRISBURG. 

After  passing  the  point,  Morrisburg  comes  into  view 
on  the  left — the  prettiest  village  in  the  Dominion  of 
Canada.  Look  at  its  churches,  public  buildings,  private 
residences,  and  hotels  (the  St.  Lawrence  Hall  is  kept  by 
W.  H.  McCannon,  and  I  can  say  cheerfully  no  better 
hotel  in  town),  that  greet  the  eye,  for  we  are  still  in  the 
Province  of  Ontario.  At  half  past  three  o'clock  we 
enter  the  Province  of  Quebec.  You  will  have  a  good 
chance  then  to  compare  the  two  provinces.  Your  espe- 
cial attention  is  called  to  this  now,  that  you  may  be 
prepared  to  scan  the  change  you  will  not  fail  to  observe. 
Before  reaching  Morrisburg  is  Doran's  Island,  which 
was  rented  by  Mr.  Oz  Doran  of  the  St.  Regis  Indians 
for  one  dollar  per  year,  and  they  come  every  year  60 
miles  to  collect  one  dollar.  A  railroad  bridge  was  to 
have  been  completed  at  this  point  during  the  present 
year.  Opposite  Morrisburg  is  Dry  Island,  used  for  pic- 
nics, etc. 

One  hour  from  this  point  to  the  Long  Sault  Rapids. 
We  speak  of  this  here,  for  it  is  about  dinner  time,  and' 
if  you  are  lucky  enough  to  secure  a  seat  at  the  first 
table  you  will  lose  no  point  of  interest,  for  it  is  presum- 
able you  will  finish  within  the  hour. 

THE  CUISINE  ON  THE  BOAT. 

• 

It  will  not  be  amiss  here  to  state  that  the  meals  were 
formerly  served  on  the  American  plan,  in  the  upper 
saloon,  and  to  give  you  but  a  faint  idea  of  the  commo- 


•iigi^  HOtO'    X 


103 


,^ni^  **!»•'  X 


tion  created  by  the  passengers  when  there  was  one 
more  person  on  board  than  seats  at  the  table,  would 
require  a  volume  ten  times  this  size  to  describe. 
Therefore,  please  excuse  me  if  I  relate  by  way  of  illus- 
tration what  an  eminent  writer  said  on  the  subject  : 
"  The  waiters,  like  little  puppets,  would  bob  up  serenely 
at  any  time  and  place,  drop  a  dish  or  whatever  the  hand 
contained,  and  were  as  soon  out  of  sight.  This  con- 
tinued for  about  one  hour,  while  we  were  seated  back 
against  the  cabin  wall,  with  just  space  enough  for  the 
waiter  to  pass  between  us  and  the  table.  When  the 
signal  was  given  everybody  made  a  rush  for  the  table, 
and  if  the  scene  depicted  could  only  be  described, 
humorously  or  otherwise,  I  would  like  to  read  it."  But 
the  writer  said  it  reminded  him  of  the  famous  picture  in 
her  Majesty's  gallery,  "  The  rape  of  the  Sabines."  (I 
have  never  seen  the  picture,  but  presume  it  is  that  of  a 
beautiful  female  poised  as  a  central  figure,  and  about 
ten  soldiers  ready  to  embrace  her  on  a  given  signal.) 
Things  have  changed,  however,  and  this  season  the 
meals  will  be  served  on  the  American  plan,  run  by  the 
company,  who  have  secured  the  best  stewards,  etc.,  to 
superintend  the  service,  to  the  end  that  everyone  may 
be  pleased.  The  upper  saloon  will  not  be  used,  but 
what  was  formerly  known  as  the  ladies'  cabin,  and  the 
cabin  below,  has^een  refitted,  containing  ample  table 
room  for  everybody,  and  will  be  the  dining  rooms  ; 
there  have  also  been  added  a  new  kitchen,  steam  tables, 
etc.,  which  gives  the  whole  saloon  as  a  promenade  and 
place  of  rest  and  repose  for  the  passengers.  I  am  pos- 
itive the  change  will  be  acceptable. 

About   a  mile  below   Morrisburg,   on  the   right,   is 
Gooseneck  Island,  so  called  from  its  resemblance  to  the 


104 


neck  of  a  goose  ;  the  upper  end  is  the  neck  ;  the  narra- 
tive is  about  nine  miles  long.  Five  miles  from  Morris- 
burg  to 

CHRYSLER'S  FARM, 

memorable  for  the  battle  fought  on  this  ground  in  the 
year  1813.  The  Americans  were  the  attacking  party 
on  this  occasion,  having  arisen  early  in  the  morning, 
crossed  the  river  into  the  little  bay,  landed  and  imme- 
diately gone  into  the  contest  by  attacking  the  little 
house.  The  fight  was  desperate,  lasting  until  eleven 
o'clock,  when  the  Americans,  under  General  Williams, 
were  repulsed  with  great  slaughter.  The  house  was 
completely  riddled  with  bullets.  It  has  since  been  torn 
down  and  the  chimney  left  as  a  monument  to  the  battle* 
They  retreated  in  good  order,  re-crossed  the  river  and 
remained,  having  abandoned  the  trip  to  Montreal  which 
they  intended.  I  draw  this  mild  because  I  am  one  of 
"  God's  people  "  myself. 

Next  in  interest  is  Farron's  Point,  opposite  which  is 
Croyl's  Island.  Six  minutes  from  here  to  Long  Sault 
rapids ;  we  pass  on  the  left  Harrison's  Landing. 

LONG  SAULT  ISLAND. 

At  this  point  there  are  really  two  channels,  the 
American  Channel  being  on  the  right  of  Long  Sault 
Island,  the  rapids  forming  the  Canadian  channel,  and  are 
on  the  left  of  the  Island.  The  distinguishing  feature 
about  the  American  Channel  is,  while  it  is  swift  in  cur- 
rent, it  has  no  rapids  worthy  of  note,  and  the  channel  is 
U3ed  for  tows,  etc.,  and  all  the  rafts  naturally  prefer  this 
way,  because  it  would  be  impossible  for  them  to  go  down 
the  Long  Sault. 


.  "^ 


>■    M^i  £«i>  X 


In  the  distant  front  observe  a  light-house  at  the  head 
of  the  Cornwall  canal.  The  canal  is  twelve  miles  in 
length,  and  passes  around  the  Long  Sault  Rapids. 

The  boats  are  steered  from  landmarks  on  the  shore 
by  that  small  ball  you  see  on  the  end  of  the  pole,  which 
is  the  bow-sprit.  The  target  that  you  see  in  the  dis- 
tance is  used  by  the  pilot  to  get  his  position  in  Long 
Sault  Rapids.  These  targets  will  be  seen  frequently  as 
you  progress,  and  as  they  all  answer  the  same  purpose, 
this  reference  to  them  will  suffice. 


>■      mtm  'J»i3r    X 


LONG  SAULT  RAPIDS. 

Dickinson's  Landing,  on  the  left,  was  formerly  a  very 
important  point  on  this  line,  as  it  was  the  foot  of  navi- 
gation before  the  canal  was  completed,  some  forty 
years  ago.  Few  changes  have  taken  place  since,  that 
are  apparent  to  the  eye.  The  Long  Sault  is  the  first 
one  of  the  first-class  rapids,  and  the  third  one  in  line 
proceeding  dowif  the  river,  and  as  we  set  a  price  on  the 
other  two  you  can  set  your  own  price  on  this  one.  A 
description  of  these  rapids  has  been  given  from  time 
immemorial ;  it  does  not  behoove  us  to  give  any  graphic 
or  colored  description  of  this  scene,  although  we  might 
do  so  satisfactorily,  having  seen  depicted  on  the  coun- 
tenances of  thousands  of  passengers  who  have  passed 
this  way  everything  in  nature,  from  the  sublime  to  the 
ridiculous,  as  well  us  between  the  two,  and  as  each  indi- 
vidual's feelings  differ,  no  one  description  would  do  the 
subject  justice.  One  writer  said  :  "  It  was  sliding  down 
hill  on  a  steam-boat."  Another  said  he  felt  as  if  he  was 
being  ung/ued/  A  third- said  he  felt  a»  if  he  had  taken 
a  large  dose  of  ipecac.  Still  another,  as  if  he  was  on  a 
ship  at  sea  in  a  storm.    And  yet  one  more  was  so  exhil- 


io6 


I! 


arated  that  he  imagined  he  owned  Maud  S.  and  would 
like  to  spend  his  days  on  the  rapids.  Another  party 
who  had  ridiculed  the  trip  a  good  deal,  until  the  spray 
began  to  cover  the  deck,  wetting  them  to  the  skin, 
drenching  their  store  clothes,  which,  when  dried 
revealed  awkward  misfits,  exclaimed  that  "  it  was  the 
grandest  sight  they  ever  witnessed." 

I  could  enlarge  upon  other  descriptions,  but  prefer  to 
give  the  Phat  Boy  a  privilege  to  relate  a  few  facts — no 
"taffy."  All  the  boats  of  this  line  are  built  of  Bessemer 
steel  or  iron,  with  three  and  one-half  inches  of  elm 
riveted  close  to  the  iron  on  the  bottom  outside  to 
prevent  accidents  if  we  should  strike  against  a  rock. 
This  precaution  was  found  necessary,  because  the  first 
iron  boat  that  struck  a  rock  became  a  total  wreck . 
With  the  protection  of  elm  no  injury  has  resulted  from 
the  occasional  striking  of  the  boats  against  the  rock?. 
There  is  no  danger,  however,  in  this  rapid,  for  the  water 
in  the  shallowest  place  is  thirteen  and  one-half  feet  and 
we  are  drawing  about  seven  feet.  During  our  passage 
through  all  the  rapids,  we  have  four  men  at  the  wheel 
and  four  men  at  the  tiller  aft,  who  assist  the  men  at  the 
wheel.  Any  accident  that  should  happen  to  the  chain  or 
the  wheel,  the  pilot  immediately  goes  to  the  right  hand 
of  the  tiller. 

The  Long  Sault  Rapid  is  nine  miles  long  ;  three 
miles  of  boisterous  commotion  ;  six  miles  of  current 
and  sudden  sharp  turns.  When  we  first  enter  the  rapid 
the  steam  on  board  of  the  boat  is  slowed  down  until 
she  gets  her  position  in  the  rapids,  as  she  draws  less 
water  than  when  under  full  head  of  steam.  We  are 
then  compelled  to  put  on  full  steam  as  the  boat  must 
go  faster  than  the  current  in  order  to  obtain  steerage 


.  A 


*4Mi&>*k»"^ 


ii 


107 


i*4«&**''^ 


way.  Many  suppose  that  no  steam  is  used  through  the 
rapids,  which  is  an  error.  If  we  were  to  attempt  to  go 
down  without  any  propelling  power,  we  would  be  at 
the  mercy  of  the  current  of  this  stupendous  agitation 
called  rapids.  One  couldn't  tell  which  end  of  the  boat 
would  be  first,  and  it  is  presumable  that  this  would  be 
anything  but  pleasant  to  the  passenger,  for  she  would 
go  down  the  same  as  a  log ;  no  one  could  tell  which  end 
of  the  boat  would  be  first  -anything  but  pleasure  to 
the  passengers. 

When  we  first  enter  this  rapid  the  finest  view  is 
obtained  on  the  right  side  of  the  boat.  It  is  expected 
however,  that  the  passengers  will  distribute  themselves 
equally  on  either  side  to  keep  the  boat  in  good  trim — 
the  captain  generally  uses  the  "  Phat  Boy  "  for  this 
purpose ;  when  he  is  not  on  board  the  passengers  are 
expected  to  distribute  themselves.  The  view,  however 
soon  changes  to  the  left,  and  when  nearing  the  point 
the  swell  and  white  caps  run  from  seven  to  eleven  feet 
in  height. 

We  have  already  explained  the  cause  of  the  rapids. 
Now,  will  anyone  please  explain  to  me  what  is  the 
height  of  the  rocks  which  create  this  commotion,  and 
at  the  same  time  set  their  price  on  this  rapid?  After 
passing  this  point  and  the  swell  and  white  caps  that  we 
have  been  describing,  on  the  left  is  the  passage  to  the 
Canadian  channel  of  this  river,  which  forms  Barnhardt's 
Island.  On  the  right  is  the  American  channel.  This 
was  formerly  used  by  boats  before  they  came  down  the 
Long  Sault,  which  for  a  long  time  was  known  as  the 
lost  channel.  This  channel  having  been  lost  for  some 
years,  it  was  discovered  by  Captain  Rankin,  who 
-eceived  for  that   service  a  magnificent  silver   watch, 


io8 


the  value  of  which  at  the  present  day  would  be  about 
$6.50.  The  first  steamboat  of  this  line  that  passed 
through  the  Long  Sault,  was  the  "  Passport  "  (1890  the 
"  New  Passport  "  took  her  place  in  the  line),  in  1847, 
and  the  pilot  was  W.  H.  McGannon,  who  is  still  in  the 
employ  of  the  company.  The  soundings  were  made  by 
scows  and  rafts,  with  poles  attached  to  the  sides,  of 
8  to  15  feet  in  length,  and  as  either  of  these  met  an 
obstruction  and  became  dislodged  or  broken  off,  the 
depth  of  the  water  was  ascertained  and  a  record  made. 
The  propelling  power  of  these  scows  or  rafts  was  oars 
or  large  paddles,  worked  by  from  10  to  40  men  as  the 
necessities  of  each  required. 

The  steamer  "  Gill "  was  the  first  boat  through  the 
tapids,  and  went  down  more  by  accident  than  otherwise, 
ibut  it  demonstrated  the  certainty  of  a  channel. 

Earnhardt's  Island,  on  the  left,  7^  miles  in  lengfth 
by  4^  miles  in  width,  belongs  to  the  United  States. 
On  the  right  is  the  main  land,  St.  Lawrence  County, 
N.  Y.  Both  sides  of  the  river  for  the  next  seven  miles 
belong  to  the  United  States.  The  King  of  Holland, 
who  was  the  arbitrator  of  the  treaty  of  18 12,  from  charts, 
maps,  etc.,  furnished  him,  supposed  that  the  main 
channel  of  the  river  passed  around  that  Island  on  the 
left.  He  was  mistaken  however  ;  this  is  the  main 
channel  of  the  river,  and  the  only  navigable  one,  the 
Canadian  channel  containing  only  about  ^J4  or  4  feet 
of  water. 

During  the  next  eight  minutes  we  pass  three  very 
sudden  turns  in  the  river  ;  the  first  turn  is  to  the  right, 
then  to  the  left  ;  next  to  the  right  again  ;  the  second 
turn  being  the  sharpest  on  the  St.  Lawrence  River  ;  at 
direct  angles  turning  to  the   left.     Passengers  on  the 


.   ^ 


^HkMh^'^ 


log 


iM^ltfk*-'^ 


left  side  of  the  boat,  by  looking  backward,  have  a  tine 
view  of  that  portion  of  the  river  we  have  just  passed, 
and  looking  forward  see  where  we  are  compelled  to  go, 
and  more  easily  note  the  sharpness  of  the  turn.  Rafts 
entering  the  American  channel  at  the  foot  of  the  Long 
Sault  rapids  will  drift  nine  miles  in  forty  minutes,  and 
are  often  thrown  on  shore  on  either  side  in  making  this 
sudden  turn.  After  making  our  next  turn  to  the  right, 
by  looking  in  the  distance,  front,  between  the  narrow 
point,  we  discover  what  is  known  as  "The  Crab."  The 
current  crosses  here  from  right  to  left,  then  left  to  right, 
and  from  right  to  left,  forming  the  letter  Z.  Rafts  get 
entangled  in  this  portion  of  the  river,  and  are  easily 
torn  to  pieces. 

There  is  a  ferry  boat  plying  between  this  point,  on 
the  right,  Macenia  Point  and  Cornwall  Point  on  the  left, 
touching  at  two  places  on  Barnhardt's  Island,  to  convey 
passengers  who  are  desirous  of  visiting  Macenia 
Springs,  six  miles  distant.  The  steamboat  is  a  side- 
wheeler,  two  horses  tread  the  power  that  revolves  the 
wheels ;  it  is  therefore  a  two-horse  boat ;  they  convey 
the  steam  on  board  in  a  bag  well  filled  with  oats.  The 
deck  hand  is  the  cook  ;  the  cook  is  the  engineer  ;  the 
engineer  is  the  mate,  and  the  mate  is  the  captain  ;  one 
man  supreme  commands  ;  no  mutiny  ever  occurs,  unless 
the  mule  should  kick  the  deck  hand  overboard — that 
would  be  a  "w«//Vy,"  would  it  not? 

On  the  left  is  the  entrance  to  the  Canadian  channel 
at  the  end  of  Barnhardt's  Island.  Two  miles  below  on 
the  right  is  the  last  of  the  American  shore  on  the  St. 
Lawrence,  lat.  45°  N.  Some  few  yea*s  ago  I  was 
presented  by  one  of  the  firms  in  the  city,  with  an 
American  flag  fifteen  feet  in  length,  to  designate  the  last 


i^^^mamm»»m.    '"' 


no 

of  the  United  States  shore  on  this  river.  Through  the 
assistance  of  a  friend  at  Cornwall,  and  thirteen  dollars 
in  cash,  I  succeeded  in  getting  the  flag  in  position.  «  It 
remained  there  for  about  ten  days,  when  a  party  of  St. 
Regis  Indians,  who  occupy  a  reservation  six  miles 
distant,  the  other  side  of  the  river — four  of  them  came 
over  to  the  point,  filled  themselves  full  of  "  ice  water," 
climbed  up  the  flag-staff  and  took  down  the  flag.  They 
cut  it  up  into  three  or  four  suits  of  clothes,  and  went 
around  this  vicinity  for  about  a  week  as  full  as  a  boiled 
oyster,  singing  "  Hail  Columbia,  right  side  up,"  rolled 
up  in  the  stars  and  stripes,  full  of  fire  water  ;  it  was  said 
to  be  the  happiest  moment  of  their  lives,  and  I  have  no 
reason  to  doubt  it.  On  June  7th,  1887,  I  was  presented 
by  Mr.  S.  Carsley,  the  leading  dry  goods  merchant  of 
Montreal,  with  another  splendid  American  flag,  and  I 
hope  when  placed  in  position  it  may  wave  until  I  cea'se 
issuing  this  little  volume,  and  on  white  wings,  etc.,  etc. 

That  portion  of  the  river  on  the  right  is  the  dividing 
line  for  five  miles ;  afterwards  an  iron  fence,  or  posts 
set  at  equal  distance  apart,  mark  the  boundary  line. 
The  river  passing  around  that  way  forms  Cornwall 
Island,  about  six  miles  wide.  Rafts  enter  this  portion 
of  the  river  where  the  Racket  river  empties  in,  and  are 
here  refitted  preparatory  to  being  towed  through  the 
lake.  Both  sides  of  the  river  from  this  point  downward 
belong  to  the  Dominion  of  Canada. 

In  the  distance,  on  the  left  is  Cornwall,  a  village  of 
8,000  people,  with  the  largest  cotton  and  woolen  mills, 
in  the  Dominion.  Since  the  protective  tariff  was  inau- 
gurated by  the  Dominion  Parliament,  these  industries 
have  thrived  wonderfully,  and  the  town  is  correspond- 
ingly prosperous.     The  large  round  tower  is  the  water 


,  •* 


'•^^^ 


Ill 


-iijte'H 


works  reservoir.  Just  before  landing  a  fine  view  is 
obtained  of  both  the  old  and  new  Cornwall  canals. 
Looking  at  the  old  canal  lock,  and  learning  its  dimen- 
sions, it  is  obvious  why  the  steamers  are  the  limit  which 
the  locks  will  admit,  hence  if  they  were  five  feet  longer 
or  a  trifle  wider,  they  would  be  compelled  to  remain  at 
Montreal,  not  being  able  to  work  through  the  locks. 
The  new  canal  which  is  alongside  of  the  old  one,  will 
have  locks  loo  feet  longer  than  the  present  ones  in  use, 
consequently  much  larger  boats  will  be  able  to  ply  the 
river.  The  old  canal  was  considered  amply  large  when 
built ;  it  was  not  supposed  that  the  travel  on  the  St. 
Lawrence  would  ever  reach  its  present  and  constantly 
increasing  numbers. 

After  leaving  Cornwall,  on  the  right  is  Cornwall 
Island,  six  miles  wide.  Just  beyond  the  Island,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  river,  is  St.  Regis,  an  old  Indian  vil- 
lage, which  cannot  be  seen  from  the  deck  of  the  steamer. 
But  there  is  just  one  point  where  the  church  roof  can  be 
observed  for  a  moment  or  so.  There  is,  however,  a 
tradition  worth  relating  here  :  The  bell  hanging  in 
this  church  is  associated  with  a  deed  of  genuine  Indian 
revenge.  On  its  way  from  France  it  was  captured  by 
an  English  cruiser  and  taken  to  Salem,  Massachusetts, 
where  it  was  sold  to  the  church  at  Deerfield,  in  the  same 
state.  The  Indians,  hearing  of  the  destination  of  their 
bell,  set  out  for  Deerfield,  attacked  the  town,  killing 
forty  seven  of  the  inhabitants,  and  took  112  captives, 
among  whom  was  the  pastor  and  his  family.  The  bell 
was  then  taken  down  and  conveyed  to  St.  Regis,  where 
it  now  hangs. 

During  the  next  ten  miles  of  our   trip,  the   river   is 
beautifully   studded   with   islands,   and   resembles   the 


>n-«r«"'«w"?'B* 


112 

Thousand  Islands  scenery  very  much.  Many  of  these 
islands  are  inhabited  ;  some  of  them  elegantly  laid  out 
with  drives,  etc.  Rev.  Mr.  Dickinson's,  called  after 
himself,  has  a  dock  at  which  steamers  of  this  size  can 
land  ;  it  has  a  hotel,  number  of  cottages,  and  is  quite  a 
gay  place  in  summer.  On  the  left  side  is  Summers 
Town,  beyond  which  is  Hamilton's  Island.  Just  before 
reaching  Summers  Town  is  the  residence  of  Captain 
Cameron,  formerly  of  this  line  ;  beyond  is  the  magnifi- 
cent villa  of  Hon.  Caribou  Cameron,  the  finest  on  the 
St.  Lawrence.  It  is  built  of  Ohio  freestone  and  cost 
$80,000.  Hamilton  Island,  on  the  left,  is  occupied  every 
summer  by  camping  parties,  who  come  from  great 
distances,  even  from  Virginia  and  Ohio,  and  remain  two, 
three  and  even  four  months.  Day  after  day,  one  of  their 
principal  amusements  is  rowing  out  in  their  small  boats, 
awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  steamers,  and  then  swiftly 
riding  on  top  of  the  swell  that  is  occasioned  by  the 
wheels  of  the  steamer.  The  scene  is  exciting  and 
picturesque.  On  the  right  we  now  have  a  fine  view  of 
the  Adirondack  Mountains  of  Northern  New  York,  and 
beyond  the  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont,  except  it  be  a 
smoky  or  misty  day,  when  the  view  is  slightly  obscured. 
It  is  fifty-six  miles  from  the  river  to  the  mountains,  and 
intervening  is  the  wilderness  of  the  State  of  New  York, 
known  as  the  John  Brown  tract,  more  famous  as  the 
hunting  ground  of  adventurous  hunting  and  fishing 
parties. 

Continuing  our  course,  we  pass  three  small  islands  and 
enter  Lake  St.  Francs,  twenty-eight  miles  in  length — a 
very  picturesque  sheet  of  water  indeed  ;  but  the  trip 
through  the  lake  is  quite  monotonous,  therefore,  for  the 
next  two  hours,  the  guide,  as  well  as  the  passengers,  can 


4mh^^ 


mmmmmn 


113 

"  take  a  rest."  This  being  a  favorite  route  for  honey- 
moon parties,  there  is  now  two  full  hours  for  these 
couples  to  enjoy  the  "  honey  "  or  the  "  moon,"  as  seemeth 
to  them  best.  After  making  this  announcement  one 
day,  fifty-three  left  the  deck  ;  one,  however,  was  an  old 
bachelor,  who  went  to  curl  his  hair. 

In  the  center  of  the  lake  on  the  left,  is  the  village 
of  Lancaster,  an  old  Scotch  settlement.  Just  before 
reaching  the  village,  is  what  appears  to  be  a  stack  of 
hay,  commonly  known  throughout  Scotland  as  a  Cairn. 
It  is  no  more  or  less  than  a  heap  of  stones  in  a  rounded 
or  conical  form,  placed  in  that  way  to  commemorate 
some  especia'  nistoric  event.  This  one  was  built  by 
the  Glengarry  Highlanders  in  1847,  to  perpetuate  the 
memory  of  Sir  John  Colburn,  who  was  Commander  in 
Chief  of  the  Army  and  Governor-General  of  the  prov- 
vince.  It  was  built  by  putting  cobble-stones  one  on  top 
of  the  other — each  individual  inhabitant  or  stranger 
passing  that  way  adding  a  stone.  See  Queen  Victoria's 
Cook,  where  she  describes  helping  to  build  a  Scotch 
Cairn  with  the  assistance  of  John  Brown,  and  one  will 
get  a  better  idea  of  how  to  build  a  Cairn.  The  county 
in  which  this  place  is  located  is  named  Glengarry,  and 
is  mainly  or  almost  wholly  inhabited  by  the  sturdy 
Scotch  Highlanders,  whose  farms  are  the  finest  in  the 
Dominion.  This  is  the  last  English  speaking  village 
on  the  route. 

Passing  three  lighthouses,  showing  that  the  channel 
across  the  lake  is  quite  intricate,  we  leave  St.  Anisette 
on  the  right,  a  small  French  town.  We  are  now 
approaching  the  boundary  line  between  the  Provinces 
of  Ontario  and  Quebec.  The  lighthou.ses  on  either  side 
show  the  geographical  divisions.     From  the  lighthouse 


ir  »i' 


"4 

on  the  left  the  line  runs  straight  to  the  Ottawa  River ; 
then  the  Ottawa  becomes  the  dividing  line.  Just  before 
arriving  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  where  the  river  re-forms, 
we  pass  San  Zotique  ;  next  Coteau  Landing,  where  we 
call  for  the  purpose  of  taking  on  a  pilot, 

EDWARD  WILLETT, 

whose  duty  it  is  to  pilot  this  line  of  boats  through  the 
next  series  of  rapids,  and  the  Lachine,  also  through  to 
Montreal ;  we  are  now  coming  to  four  rapids ;  first,  the 
Coteau  ;  second,  Cedar ;  third.  Split  Rock,  and  fourth, 
the  Cascades.  The  Canada  Atlantic  Railroad,  running 
from  Ottawa,  the  capital  of  the  Dominion,  to  Coteau 
Landing,  the  railroad  ferry  at  this  point  conveys  whole 
trains  to  Valley  Field,  where  connections  are  made  for 
Boston  and  New  York.  A  bridge  was  completed  in 
1890  and  the  ferry  discontinued.  The  shortest  route 
from  the  capital  to  those  points.  On  the  extreme  right, 
at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  is  the  village  of  Valley  Field. 
It  is  at  the  head  of  Beauharnois  Canal,  11^  miles  in 
length,  which  passes  around  this  series  of  rapids.  The 
river,  in  11^  miles,  has  a  fall  of  84  feet.  The  finest 
water  power  privilege  on  the  continent  of  America, 
except  Niagara,  is  at  this  point.  The  largest  cotton 
mill  in  the  Dominion,  the  Canada  Paper  Co.'s  mill,  and 
several  other  manufacturing  establishments  are  located 
at  Valley  Field.  After  leaving  St.  Francis  Lake,  we 
re-enter  the  river.  With  our  pilot  we  go  down  the  small 
rapid  known  as  the  Coteau,  passing  Prisoner's  Island  on 
the  left,  and  on  the  left  bank  is  the  old  French  village 
of  Coteau  du  Lac,  On  the  extreme  left,  at  the  point, 
is  an  old  French  fort,  where  battles  were  fought  in  181 2 
and  1813;  the  earthworks  are  still  in  a  good  state  of 
preservation,  behind  which  is  the  old  saw-mill.    Twenty 


V' 


"5 


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point, 
1812 
ate  of     ^ 
wenty 


•airviaf- 


minutes  (or  five  miles)  from  tliis  point  to  tlie  Cedar 
Rapids,  then  you  will  "see  der  Rapid,"  that  is  a  Rapid 
— the  most  Rapid  Rapid  of  all  the  Rapids.  Opposite 
the  rapid  is  the  village  of  Cedar  on  the  left  and  St. 
Timothy  on  the  right,  the  Cedar  Rapid,  the  finest  upon 
the  St.  Lawrence  River.  Look  at  St.  Timothy,  bear  in 
mind  the  view  you  had  of  Morrisburg,  the  impression  of 
its  beauty  and  thrift,  and  now  you  have  the  comparison. 
How  does  the  former  strike  you  as  against  the  latter? 
It  is  a  historic  fact,  and  worthy  of  note,  that  no  matter 
what  town  you  arrive  at  in  the  Province  of  Quebec,  this 
will  be  apparent  to  the  eye  :  the  finest  buildings  in  the 
place  will  be  the  church,  nunnery,  school,  hospital,  and 
the  priest's  residence.  Aside  from  these,  the  rest  are  all 
about  alike.  You  cannot  tell  the  palace  residence  from 
the  blacksmith's  shop,  or  the  grocery  store  from  the 
hotel.  The  church  at  St.  Timothy  has  a  seating  capacity 
of  1,500  ;  the  population  of  the  village  »s  600  ;  the 
church  is  always  full  on  Sundays,  and  as  Mark  Twain 
exclaimed,  '  What  large  domes  these  worshippers  must 
have  to  their  pantaloons  for  600  to  fill  a  place  capable 
of  seating  1,500."  But  they  come  from  all  the  country 
around,  being  all  of  one  persuasion.  An  opposition 
church  is  so  far  unknown  in  these  rural  parts,  hence  it 
may  be  inferred  what  the  extraordinary  power  of  this 
old  church  must  be  in  the  lower  province. 

Speaking  to  one  of  the  priests  one  day  regarding  the 
amount  of  money  collected  by  them  from  the  poor  to 
build  and  maintain  their  institutions,  I  asked  him  how 
it  was,  and  he  remarked  that  the  millions  had  more 
money  than  the  millionaires,  and  by  getting  the  dollar 
from  the  poorer  classes  they  had  the  million,  which  the 
millionaires  never  give  up. 


ii6 


Just  before  arriving  at  St.  Timothy,  we  enter  the 
Cedar  Rapid  and  pass  a  distance  of  three  and  one-half 
miles  in  the  extraordinary  short  time  of  seven  minutes. 
By  casting  your  eye  shoreward,  while  passing  an  island 
on  the  left,  and  just  before  we  enter  the  heaviest  part 
of  the  rapid,  you  will  discover  how  fast  the  boat  is 
going.  Looking  to  the  right,  you  will  see  Hell's  Hole 
and  the  greatest  commotion  in  the  river  from  Kingston 
to  the  Gulf. 

Leaving  Cedar  Rapid,  which  is  the  most  picturesque 
and  beautiful  (in  our  estimation)  of  all,  two  and 
one-half  miles  farther  along,  and  passing  Bockey 
Hayes'  shoal,  which  is  a  peculiar  formation  in  the  bed 
of  the  river,  making  navigation  somewhat  dangerous. 
In  illustration  :  One  day  the  steamer  "  Corsican " 
suddenly  lurched  to  the  left,  and  evidently  struck  a 
rock  ;  whereupon  the  captain  said  to  the  pilot,  "  Edward, 
you  are  a  little  too  far  over  to  the  left."  Before  he 
could  complete  the  sentence  the  boat  lurched  to  the 
right  and  struck  another  rock  ;  then  the  pilot  replied, 
"  Yes  ;  and  a  little  too  far  over  to  the  right  side."  It 
is  plain  that  the  channel  about  here  is  at  least  precarious. 
The  government  engineers,  however,  are  now  at  work 
removing  these  dangerous  obstructions.  The  Napoleon 
hats  you  see  in  the  distance,  on  poles  about  ten  feet 
high,  are  the  marks  which  enable  the  pilot  to  obtain 
his  true  bearings  through  the  shoal.  Turning  to  the 
right,  we  come  in  sight  of  the  Split  Rock  Rapid,  the 
most  dangerous  rapid  of  all.  When  we  speak  of  danger, 
we  don't  mean  to  life  or  limb,  as  no  person  was  ever 
injured  on  this  rapid  ;  it  is  danger  to  property  that  we 
refer  to,  as  this  is  the  only  one  of  the  series  that  has 
cost  the  company  one  dollar.     They  lost  one  steamboat 


117 


'\> 


iX~ 


..    * 


here,  and  have  had  others  upon  the  rocks.  On  the 
8th  of  July,  1874,  the  steamer  "Corinthian,"  of  the 
R.  O.  N.  Co.,  when  passing  the  Split  Rock  Rapid,  was 
almost  instantly  enveloped  by  a  terrible  thunder  shower, 
accompanied  by  a  hurricane.  The  wind  was  so  powerful 
that  the  boat  refused  to  answer  the  helm,  and  instead  of 
turning  to  the  right,  as  she  should,  the  wind  caused  her 
to  go  straight  ahead,  and  we  struck  a  rock  forward 
about  five  feet  high  and  passed  fifteen  feet  aft  of  the 
wheel  over  the  same,  and  then  stopped.  I  was  upon 
the  right-hand  side  of  the  boat  explaining  to  the 
passengers  and  showing  or  pointing  out  to  them  the 
ledge  of  rock  when  she  struck.  Immediately  four 
ladies  caught  hold  of  me  (whom  they  thought  was  the 
boss  life  preserver).  What  a  position  for  a  nice  young 
man.  I  was  about  to  exclaim  as  my  friend  A.  Ward 
did  when  he  was  surrounded  by  twenty  of  Brigham 
Young's  wives,  "  I  hope  your  intentions  are  honorable." 
However,  through  the  assistance  of  some  friends,  I 
procured  life  preservers  for  them  and  was  released  from 
my  somewhat  precarious  position.  In  the  space  of  an 
hour  most  of  the  passengers  were  landed  by  the  aid  of 
the  ship's  boats  and  bateaux  from  the  shore,  and 
proceeded  by  rail  to  Montreal,  where  they  arrived  the 
same  evening.  I  remained  on  board  all  night  until  a 
derrick  was  erected  and  two  of  the  boats  lashed 
together,  and  a  platform  built  upon  them,  when  I  was 
let  down  by  the  aid  of  the  derrick  upon  the  same,  and 
without  further  trouble  taken  to  shore  in  safety.  The 
second  line  of  whitecaps  which  you  see  in  the  distance 
in  front,  is  the  Split  Rock,  a  ledge  of  rock  running 
from  shore  to  shore,  with  the  exception  of  a  break  of 
about  sixty  feet,  which  is  a  natural  split  in  the  rock. 


ii8 


!      I 


Formerly  there  was  only  a  depth  of  nine  feet  of  water  ; 
it  was  blasted  out  and  now  gives  a  navigable  channel 
of  thirteen  and  one-half  feet.  Passengers,  by  looking 
Into  the  water  on  the  right  side  of  the  boat,  can  see 
the  ledge  we  have  been  talking  about. 

One  and  a  half  miles  from  here  to  the  Cascade,  the 
last  of  this  series  of  four,  and  the  last  but  one  on  the 
river — the  Lachine  being  the  last.  The  Cascade  differs 
from  all  the  rest,  being  a  cutting,  chopping  sea,  in 
which  the  boats  are  wrenched  more  than  in  any  other 
rapid.  On  the  right  is  the  village  of  Melocheville,  at 
the  foot  of  the  Beauharnois  Canal,  eleven  and  one-half 
miles  in  length,  that  passes  around  this  line  of  rapids. 
The  boats  of  this  and  all  other  lines  are  compelled  to 
pass  through  this  canal,  as  none  of  them  could  ascend 
this  line  of  rapids. 

We  are  now  thirty  miles  by  water  and  twenty-four 
miles  by  land  from  Montreal.  In  the  distance  in  froht, 
is  Mount  Royal,  or  Montreal  mountain.  The  i>ark 
mountain  drive,  the  most  famous  drive  in  the  world, 
is  up  the  brow  of  the  mountain  through  a  park.  On  the 
left  is  II  Perot  Island,  formed  by  the  two  channels  of 
the  Ottawa.  The  one  we  now  see  comes  by  St.  Anne's, 
where  Moore  wrote  his  famous  Canadian  boat  song. 
A  resident  of  St.  Anne's,  Lieutenant-Colonel  Dowker, 
says  that  every  spring  the  freshets  of  the  Ottawa  cause 
the  water  to  come  down  into  the  St.  Lawrence  with 
such  force  as  to  form  an  eddy  to  pass  up  the  point  of 
the  island  and  down  the  navigable  channel  of  the 
Ottawa,  and  he  can  take  a  pail  from  his  house,  Chateau 
Blance  (where  the  famous  poet  Moore  resided  while  at 
St.  Anne's  and  wrote  his  Canadian  poems)  proceed  down 
to    the  river    and   dip   up  a  pail    of  pure,   clear   St. 


■-^'if 


IIQ 

Lawrence  water.  Meeting  Colonel  Dowker,  he  told  me 
that  the  freshets  of  the  Ottawa  in  March  and  April, 
1885,  were  the  most  alarming  and  disastrous  ever 
known.  The  sudden  breaking  up  of  the  ice  caused  a 
jam.  Houses  were  moved  from  their  foundations,  cat- 
tle and  sheep  crushed  to  jelly  by  the  ice  and  many 
drowned  ;  the  ice  piled  mountains  high.  The  govern- 
ment had  an  agent  in  the  vicinity  relieving  the  dis- 
tressed inhabitants.  The  heavy  flow  of  ice  by  the 
freshets  in  the  Ottawa  caused  a  jam  a  little  below  Mon- 
treal in  the  year  1887,  consequently  flooding  the  city, 
causing  much  damage  to  life  and  property.  The  oldest 
church  in  the  upper  Province  and  old  forts  are  to  be 
seen  here.  " 

On  the  left  a  portion  of  the  Ottawa  empties  into  the 
St.  Lawrence.  This  is  not,  however,  the  main  channel ; 
the  navigable  portion  of  the  river  is  just  the  other  side 
of  II  Perot.  Note  the  difference  between  the  color  of 
the  two  waters  ;  they  are  as  wide  apart  as  green  is  from 
purple.  The  water  of  the  Ottawa  is  of  a  dark  brown 
color,  caused  by  passing  over  low,  marshy,  peat  bed 
soils,  and  the  huge  forests  through  which  this  river 
passes,  the  leaves  falling  and  rotting,  and  swept  along 
by  the  freshets,  doubtless  dye  the  water  to  the  peculiar 
color  observable.  The  waters  of  the  two  rivers  do  not 
readily  mix,  and  each  are  distinct  for  many  miles. 

In  the  distance  is  Lake  St.  Louis,  or  Lachine  Lake, 
15  miles  from  the  rapids  to  the  foot  of  the  lake,  where 
we  arrived  at  Lachine,  on  the  left,  and  Caughnawaga  on 
the  right.  The  latter  is  the  residence  of  the  Indian  pilot, 
St.  Jean  Baptiste,  who  discovered  the  channel  and  took 
this  line  of  boats  down  the  Lachine  Rapids  for  over 
'orty  years. 


Ill 


i    I 


120 

About  half  way  through  the  lake  on  the  right  we 
come  to  Nun's  Island.  That  mound  or  elevation  of 
ground  which  you  see,  was  a  fort  in  1812,  and  English 
and  American  warlike  parties  met  in  sanguinary  contest 
around  here.  It  commands  the  entrance  to  the  Cha- 
teaugay  River.  The  village  of  Chateaugay  is  six  miles 
back.  The  Nun's  Island  belongs  to  the  Gray  Nuns,  of 
Montreal,  who  have  a  hospital  for  their  own  sick,  and 
the  spot  is  marked  by  a  large  cross,  emblematic  of  their 
order. 

Fifteen  minutes  from  here  we  are  in  sight  of 
Caughnawaga,  where  we  formerly  took  on  board  the 
Indian  pilot,  who  has  become  of  historical  interest  to 
tourists,  as  it  was  he  who  discovered  the  channel  and 
took  the  first  of  this  line  down,  August  19,  1840,  and 
has  been  in  the  employ  of  the  company  ever  since.  iHe 
is  75  years  old,  weighs  240  pounds,  and  stands  six  feet 
high.  I  am  sorry  to  say  that  on  account  of  age,  the 
company  were  forced  to  retire  him,  and  his  brother-in- 
law  will  take  the  boats  through  the  Lachine  rapids  this 
year.  Many  of  the  passengers  imagine  he  is  the  only 
pilot  who  can  take  a  boat  through  Lachine  Rapids. 
This  is  not  correct  for  we  have  other  pilots  who  can  ; 
but  as  he  is  paid  for  this  especial  service  they  resign 
most  cheerfully  in  his  favor.  He  has  never  had  an 
accident  and  the  company  believe  in  holding  to  that 
which  is  good,  and  therefore,  "stick  to  the  old  man." 
It  was  his  custom  to  emerge  from  shore  in  a  small  boat 
accompanied  by  his  two  sons.  They  row  him  to  the 
steamers ;  he  comes  on  board  and  the  boys  go  home 
again.  He  remains  on  board  till  the  next  morning, 
takes  the  first  train  for  Lachine,  where  he  is  met  by  the 
boys,  who  take  him  home  in  a  row  boat.     The  Indian 


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UNDER  THE  MANAGEMENT  OF 

M^sRs.'  HAYES  &  BRUSHNIHAN. 


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TT'e'  Sagamore f 


On  Qreen  Island,  Lake  Qaorge, 

A  LL  that  is  rich,  striking  and  gorgeous  in  nature,  beautified 

by  art,  to  make  the  scene   sublime  and  inspiring,  has 

been  done.     :  :  :  :  :  i  :  ; 


Connected  with  thrMain  Land  by  Bridge. 
ADDITIONS: 


Two  Queen  Anne  Cottages, 

Fifty  Rooms  for  Guests, 

Magnificent  Extra  Dining  Roum, 

Music  Hall  and  Ball  Room. 

This  Splendid  New  Hotel  is  Open  to 
Quests  from 

June:  20th  until  October  isx. 

IT  18  SUPPLIED  WITH 

Passenger  Elevator,  Electric  Lights  and  Bells 
in  Every  Room,  as  well  as  other  Modern 
Conveniences.      :  :  :  : 

Its  location  the  finest  on  the  lake.  The  table  is  excellent,  the  service 
unsurpassed.  Easy  of  access  by  Boats  from  the  North  or  South,  Baldwin  or 
Caldwell,  where  trains  with  Palace  Cars  arrive  from  Saratoga,  New  York  and 
intermediate  points  several  times  daily. 

For  Descriptive  Circulars  and  Plan  of  Rooms,  address 

M.  0.  BROWN,  Lessee  and  Proprietor, 

Bolton  Landing,  Warren  Co.,  Lake  George. 

N.  B.— The  Finest  Livery  in  the  vicinity  of  Lake  George. 


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B. — Guests  of  the  Murray  Hill  Hotel  have  their  baggage 
transferred  to  and  from  the  Grand  Central  Depot 
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TOMPKINS.  GAGL  &.  CO..  Proprietors. 
Saratoga  Springs.  N,Y. 


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THE   STEAMERS, 

Puritan,  Pilgrim, 

Plymouth  and 

Providence, 

OF  THB 

FALL  River  Line, 


The  Famous  Business  and  Pleasure  Route  Between 

NEW  YORK  AND  BOSTON 

Are  the  F*,ur  Leading  Steamboats  of  the  World,  and  are  con- 
ceded to  be  the  largest,  handsomest  and  most  perfectly  equipped 
vessels  of  their  class  ever  constructed.  They  steer  by  ste  tw,  are 
lighted  throughout  by  electricity,  and  in  every  detail  of  equip- 
ment more  than  meet  all  possible  conditiojis  of  the  demands  of 
first-class  travel. 

The  Long  Island  Sound  Route  of  the  Fall  River  Line  is  one 
of  the  most  attractive  highways  of  travel  to  be  found  anywhere. 

Tickets  by  this  route  are  on  sale  at  all  the  Principal  Ticket 
Offices  in  the  United  States. ' 


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121 

pilot's  name  is  St.  Jean  Baptiste  de  Lisle ;  his  Indian 
name,  Ta  ya  ka,  meaning  in  the  U.  S.  language  that 
"he  will  cross  the  river,"  but  he  does  not  ;  he  goes 
down  the  rapids.  He  has  a  family  of  six  children,  three 
boys  and  three  girls.  The  girls  are  unmarried.  I  state 
this  for  the  benefit  of  the  young  men  on  board,  as  the 
Indian  pilot  says  he  wants  a  "  heap  Yankee  "  for  his 
girls.  I  am  engaged  to  my  Mary  Jane,  and  they  can't 
have  me. 

A  description  of  Caughnawaga  would  not  be  amiss. 
Note  the  line  of  palatial  residences  along  the  bank 
beyond  the  church,  the  windows  and  doors  kicked  out 
to  give  them  light  and  air,  the  palace  gardens  in  the 
front  part  of  the  back  end  of  the  house.  The  laundry 
of  Caughnawaga  is  usually  hung  on  the  fence,  it  is  not 
wash  day  to-day,  as  you  can  perceive.  The  bath-room 
is  the  whole  water-front,  but  it  is  seldom  used.  The 
water- works  is  that  barrel  on  the  shore.  The  fair  dam- 
sel waving  her  lily  white  hand  is  Mary  Jane,  my  best 
girl.  She  comes  out  every  day  to  welcome  me,  as  she 
thinks  I  am  on  board.  You  can  get  her  eye  and  have  a 
flirtation,  the  same  as  I  have  had  for  years,  and  not 
make  me  jealous.  That  large  brick  structure  is  the 
centennial  building,  built  during  the  centennial  year  by 
the  celebrated  Indian  Chief,  White  Kicker.  I  think 
they  used  him  to  kick  the  windows  and  doors  out  of  the 
palatial  residences  previously  spoken  of. 

Caughnawaga,  signifying  "  Praying  Indian "  (my 
friend  Ben  Butler  says  they  spell  it  with  an  e),  is  well 
laid  out  for  an  Indian  village  with  a  population  of  900, 
ail  Indians  ;  no  whites  can  live  here. 

The  finest  crops  raised  in  this  section  of  the  country 
are  raised  just  below  Caughnawaga.    They  raise  them 


122 

with  a  derrick.  It  is  a  blasted  crop,  however,  and  of 
no  use  until  it  is.  This  notable  quarry  is  where  most 
of  the  stones  come  from  for  the  construction  of  the 
locks  in  the  new  Lachine  canal — the  entrance  to  which 
is  at  Lachine,  the  village  just  passed  at  the  foot  of  the 
lake,  on  the  left. 

THE  VILLAGE  OF  LACH!NE 

is  a  favorite  resort  for  Montrealers  in  summer.  The 
inhabitants  number  about  2,000,  but  it  is  frequently 
augmented  in  the  season  to  9,000  or  10,000.  Note  the 
large  buildings,  which  are  the  church.  Villa  de  Marie 
Convent,  the  School  and  University  for  the  education  of 
priests. 

Our  pilot  being  on  board,  be  will  now  show  his 
Injin-uity  in  piloting  a  boat  down  the  Lachine  Rapids. 
Before  reaching  the  rapids  the  tourists  can  see  the 
aqueduct  that  supplies  the  city  of  Montreal  with  water. 

THE  LACHINE  RAPIDS 

differ  from  all  the  rest  ;  it  is  simply  an  intricate  channel 
through  rock.  Take  your  position  upon  either  side  of 
the  boat  and  you  will  know  when  we  come  to  the  most 
important  point,  as  the  boat  will  be  headed  direct  for  a 
little  island  which  is  nothing  more  or  less  than  a  few 
loads  of  dirt  upon  a  huge  ledge  of  rock.  Keep  your  eye 
upon  the  bow  of  the  boat  and  you  will  be  led  to 
exclaim,  "why,  we  are  going  to  strike  the  island  ;"  and 
if  you  are  a  betting  person  or  a  truthful  one,  you  would 
rdmost  swear  we  could  not  help  but  strike  ;  but  when 
within  less  than  ten  feet,  we  make  a  very  sudden  turn 
to  the  right  with  a  grand  pitch  or  lurch,  in  which  you 
will  think  the  boat  drops  ten  feet.     We  pass  alongside 


I 


123 

of  a  ledge  of  rocks  for  about  half  a  mile,  to  see  which 
you  must  be  upon  the  right  hand  side  of  the  boat;  at  the 
end  of  this  ledge  of  rock  we  have  a  perfect  miniature 
Niagara,  a  little  water-fall  for  a  cent.  Do  not  allow  the 
lurching  of  the  boat  from  side  to  side,  to  cause  you  any 
uneasiness,  as  there  is  no  danger,  because  a  side  wheel 
boat  has  guards  from  four  to  ten  feet  projecting  over 
on  each  side  from  the  hull,  60  to  90  feet  long,  so  that 
when  that  flat  surface  strikes  the  water  by  lurching, 
that  is  as  far  as  she  can  go,  therefore,  will  always 
righten  herself  immediately.  I  have  had  a  great  deal  of 
sport  in  this  way.  When  the  boat  had  lurched  over  as 
far  as  she  could,  I  would  immediately  exclaim  :  "Oh  ! 
I  am  on  the  wrong  side,"  and  proceed  to  the  high  side, 
when  the  boat  would  immediate  V  righten  up  and  the 
passengers  would  think  I  did  it  but  sh  would  have 
rightened  without  my  aid.  Yet  I  have  heard  some  very 
strong-minded  women,  after  seeing  the  effect  of  my 
moving  to  the  high  side  of  the  boat,  exclaim  :  "  Put 
that  big*  man  off ;  he  has  too  much  weight  to  be  upon  a 
boat  in  the  rapids."  This  is  the  last  rapid  built  on  the 
St.  Lawrence,  you  can  have  it  the  best  one  if  you  like 
and  I  will  not  quarrel  with  you  for  it.  All  I  ask  you  to 
do  is  to  stop  at  the  hotels  who  advertise  in  my  book  and 
tell  them  I  was  the  c.  use  of  your  visit,  and  if  they  do 
not  treat  you  well  I  will  proceed  to  sit  down  upon  them, 
not  mentally,  but  physically,  and  they  will  never  have 
occasion  to  treat  any  one  else  badly.  Passing  the  foot 
of  the  rapids,  a  first  view  of  Montreal  on  the  left,  and 
on  the  right  is  the  village  of  La  Prairie.  The  first 
mountain  on  the  left  is  Mount  Bruno  ;  second,  Bellisle  ; 
the  third,  St.  Pie.  The  next  and  last  sensation  on  the 
trip  is  passing  under. 


124 


VICTORIA  BRIDGE, 

the  largest  and  longest  tubular  bridge  in  the  world, 
was  built  by  Mr.  Stephenson  in  i860  for  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railroad,  by  which  it  is  owned  and  controlled. 
It  is  a  mile  and  three-quarters  of  iron,  two  miles  and  a 
quarter  with  its  approaches  from  shore.  Jt  is  wholly 
of  iron,  top,  bottom  and  sides — an  iron  tunnel  or  box, 
as  it  were.  There  are  twenty-four  abutments,  built 
wedge-shaped  (to  crush  the  immense  ice  fields  that 
pass  through  this  section,  which,  previous  to  the 
building  of  the  bridge,  did  immense  damage  to 
Montreal  during  the  spring  freshets.  There  are  no 
such  things  as  freshets  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  Ottawa 
flowing  in  some  miles  above  causing  such  disasters), 
upon  which  rests  the  sections  of  iron.  The  spans  are 
from  250  to  360  feet  long  each,  and  the  center  span  is 
about  60  feet  high.  The  bridge  tubes  are  16x22  feet. 
It  contains  no  wagon  road  or  foot  path,  and  is  used  by 
the  G.  T.  R.  and  its  connecting  lines.  The  cost  of  this 
immense  work  was  $6,250,000,  about  one-half  of  which 
amount  went  to  fatten  the  contractors.  I  was  not  one 
of  them.  I  mention  this  on  account  of  my  size,  and 
for  fear  some  one  might  think  I  was  wealthy.  The 
bridge  is  constructed  of  sheets  of  iron  with  a  two-inch 
edge  turned  up  and  riveted  to  each  other.  It  is 
fastened  to  the  center,  loose  on  both  ends  on  rollers, 
and  is  provided  with  a  sliding  track,  so  that  there  is  no 
danger  by  expansion  or  contraction  to  ;  asking  trains. 
It  expands  and  contracts  from  three  ar  d  one-half  to 
seven  inches  The  bridge  is  kept  in  thorough  repair 
and  well  painted.  The  small  holes,  or  perforations  in 
the  sides  of  the  bridge,  were  originally  intended  to 
convey  the  smoke  out,  but  found  inadequate  for  that 


125 

purpose  ;  therefore  they  caused  to  be  erected  a  line  of 
flues  the  whole  length.  Now  if  any  smoke  remains  it 
is  carried  out  in  a  hand-basket.  The  two  movable 
scaffolds  you  see  are  used  by  the  workmen  in  repairing 
and  painting.  It  is  not  a  draw  bridge,  and  as  we  pass 
under  the  center  span,  and  not  over  it,  you  need  not 
remove  your  hat  if  you  remain  on  the  deck.  After 
passing  under  the  bridge  you  will  have  a  magnificent' 
view  of 


MONTREAL  HARBOR. 

The  points  of  interest  in  the  harbor  will  all  be 
described  to  you  as  we  pass  over  St.  Lambert's  shoal, 
a  very  dangerous  passage,  previous  to  landing  at  the 
Quebec  boat,  where  we  transfer  such  passengers  as 
desire  to  visit  Quebec.  The  island  you  see  front  on 
the  right  is  St.  Helen's  Isle,  used  by  the  citizens  of 
Montreal  for  pleasure,  picnic  parties,  etc.  A  ferry 
plies  between  the  city  and  the  island  every  half  hour, 
from  morning  until  seven  p.  m.  On  Sunday  from  3,000 
to  20,000  persons  visit  the  island,  mostly  French 
Canadains,  three-fifths  of  whom  comprise  the  popu- 
lation of  Montreal..  In  the  distant  front  on  the  left 
is  the  oldest  church  in  Montreal;  to  the  left  of  that, 
the  largest  building  with  the  dome,  is  the  Bonsecour 
Market  and  old  City  Hall.  The  new  City  Hall  is 
that  large  building  in  the  rear  with  the  dome  in  the 
center  and  four  columns — one  in  each  corner.  Across 
the  road  to  the  left,  that  long  building,  is  the  Court 
House.  At  the  head  of  Jacques  Cartier  Square  is  a 
magnificent  column  erected  to  the  memory  of  Admiral 
Lord  Nelson.  At  the  foot  of  the  square  lies  a  steamer 
of    the    Richelieu   &    Ontario    Navigation   Company. 


126 


There    are    two    steamers    on    this  line,   notably   the 

"  Montreal  "     and     "  Quebec."       The    company   owns 

twenty-one  side-wheel  boats.     The  Quebec  line  has  the 

largest  boats  that  float  the  St.   Lawrence  River  ;  they 

will  compare  favorably  with  the  boats  of  the  Sound  or 

the  Hudson  River — tripU;-decked  palace  boats,  built  of 

Bessemer  steel  ;  one  has  a  capacity  of  360  state  rooms 

^ — the  other  280.     The  distance  to  Quebec  is  180  miles, 

and  the  fare  on  this  line  is  only  $2,50 — the  cheapest  on 

the   continent.     Beyond,   on   the  left,  the  two  massive 

towers  you  see  belong  to  the  French  church  of  Notre 

Dame.      It   is   not  a   Cathedral,   but  simply  a   parish 

church.     (The  Cathedral   is   on   Dominion   Square,   in 

process  of  erection,  and  when  completed  will  be  one-half 

the  size  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome).     It   is  the   largest  oh 

the  continent,  and  has  contained  within  its  walls,  front 

porch  and  stairways,  on  the  24th  of  June   (St.   John's 

Day),    twenty-two   thousand   souls.      Beyond    is    the 

Custom  House,  with  the  clock  in  the  tower,   and   still 

further   up,   the  examining  warehouse  of  the  Custom 

House,  as  well  as  the  office,  docks  and  steamers  of  the 

Allen  line.  The  first  stop  is  at  Quebec  boat;  passengers 

for  Montreal  remain  on  deck,  as  this  line  is  compelled 

to  enter  the  t'rst  lock  of  the  Lachine  canal  ;  the  gates 

close  and  the  water  is  allowed  to   enter,    which   raises 

the  boat  to  the  level  of  the  dock,  when  the  passengers 

are  allowed  to  depart.     Montreal   is   the  commercial 

metropolis   of    the    Dominion,   with   a    population   of 

160,000,  three-fifths  of  which   are   French   Canadians. 

The  docks,  piers,  wharves,  etc.,   of  Montreal  are  the 

finest  on  the   continent.      It    is    the  second    city  of 

commercial   importance.   New   York   being  first.      Six 

steamship  companies  leave  here  weekly  for  Europe  dur- 


5' 


127  ^    ' 

ing  the  summer  season,  and  a  large  amount  of  business 
•lust  of  necessity  be  done,  as  its  channel  is  closed  dur- 
ing five  months  of  the  winter.  The  water  front  is  all 
lighted  with  the  electric  light,  so  that  work  is  carried 
on  during  the  summer  months  night  and  day.  On  top 
of  the  revetment  wall  was  built  in  1889  a  dyke  or  strong 
barricade  ten  feet  high  ;  it  serves  as  a  check  to  the 
water  during  the  spring  freshets  to  prevent  the  over- 
flowing and  damage  of  the  sudden  rise  of  previous  years. 
Having  selected  your  hotel  and  arrived  at  the  same,  our 
next  duty  will  be  to  see  the  sights  of 

MONTREAL. 

It  is  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  for  ocean 
vessels,  540  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  on 
the  Island  of  Montreal,  which  lies  between  the  two 
great  rivers  of  the  North,  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the 
Ottawa.  The  island  is  about  32  miles  in  length,  and  at 
its  widest  some  ten  in  breadth  ;  it  is  so  fertile  as  to  be 
called  the  Garden  of  the  Province.  The  surface  of  the 
land  is  level,  with  the  exception  of  the  eminence  of 
Mount  Royal,  which  rises  550  feet  above  the  river  level. 
Mount  Royal  gives  the  name  to  the  city  which  lies  at  its 
base.  The  settlement  of  the  town  was  originally  determ- 
ined by  the  first  explorer,  Jacq.:es  Cartier,  in  1535,  at 
which  time  an  Indian  village,  Hochelaga,  occupied  the 
spot.  The  permanent  founding  of  the  place,  however, 
did  not  occur  until  1642,  and  in  one  hundred  years  of 
growth  thereafter  it  gathered  :»  population  of  4,000.  It 
was  under  French  rule  until  1760,  when  it  passed  into 
the  hands  of  the  British.  In  1832  the  cholera  raged  in 
Montreal  with  great  violence,  carrying  off  1,843  inhabit- 
ants  in  a  population  of  about  30,000.     In  April,  1849,  a 


ia8 


political  mob  burnt  the  Parliament  buildings,  which 
were  erected  on  McCiill  street,  and  the  seat  of  Govern- 
ment was,  in  consecjuence,  transferred  to  Quebec,  thence 
to  Toronto,  and  finally  to  Ottawa,  where  it  remains.  In 
July,  1852,  a  destructive  fire  laid  waste  a  large  portion  of 
the  city,  burning  no  houses,  and  consuming  property 
valued  at  $1,400,000,  Notwithstanding  these  reverses, 
the  city  recovered,  and  to-day  numbers  a  population  of 
160,000.  Years  of  industry  and  enterprise  have  produced 
growth,  and  improvement  in  Montreal,  such  as  but  few 
American  cities  can  boast  of,  and  perhaps  one— Chicago 
— has  exceeded.  At  the  beginning  of  the  present  cen- 
tury vessels  of  more  than  300  tons  could  not  ascend  to 
Montreal,  and  its  foreign  trade  was  carried  on  by  brigs 
and  barges.  Now  ocean  steamships  of  over  6,000  tons, 
the  floating  palaces  of  the  Richelieu  &  Ontario  Naviga- 
tion Company,  and  ships  from  700  to  6,000  tons  from  all 
parts  of  the  world,  occupy  the  wharves  of  the  harbor, 
which  are  not  equaled  on  this  continent  in  point  of  sub- 
stantial construction,  convenience  and  cleanliness.  The 
old  part  of  Montreal,  near  the  river,  has  narrow,  incom- 
modious streets  ;  but  the  -lew  growth  of  the  city  toward 
Mount  Royal  has  been  liberally  laid  out,  with  wide  and 
cheerful  thoroughfares.  The  architecture  here  is  very 
fine  ;  the  material  chiefly  used  is  a  zinc  colored  lime- 
stone, extensively  quarried  three  miles  from  the  city. 
The  public  buildings,  banks  and  principal  warehouses 
are  solid  and  handsome  enough  to  adorn  a  European 
capital.  The  great  wealth  of  the  Roman  CatlTolic 
Church  has  enabled  it  to  erect  many  magnificent 
churches,  hospitals  and  convents,  always  in  a  very  mas- 
sive and  enduring  style.  Other  denominations  seem 
to  have  been  excited  by  emulation,  and    vie  with   each 


I  2q 

Other  in  the  beauty  and  elegance  of  their  places  of  wor- 
ship. Among  the  evidences  of  the  French  origin  of  the 
city  are  to  be  noticed  a  few  curious  old  buildings  to  be 
found  lingering  here  and  there  about  Jacques  Cartier 
Square,  or  occupying  sites  on  the  eastern  part  of  the 
river  front.  The  old  houses  are  built  somewhat  like 
fortifications,  and  have  heavy  vaulted  cellars,  wherein 
treasure  might  be  stored  or  a  defense  made  against  hos- 
tile foes,  in  the  days  when  Indians  and  whites,  French 
and  British  were  fighting  and  plundering  each  other. 
The  French  Canadians  in  the  city  continue  still  to  be  a 
little  more  than  half  the  population,  and,  although  their 
language  here  has  not  b"en  unaffected  by  the  constant 
intercourse  with  English-speaking  people,  it  is  not,  as 
commonly  supposed,  a/rt/m,  but  such  French  as  was 
spoken  by  the  polite  and  educated  in  France,  when  the 
emigrants  who  first  settled  Canada  left  the  shore  of  their 
mother-land.  The  naming  of  many  of  the  streets  of 
Montreal  after  saints  and  holy  things,  reminds  one  that 
its  founders  were  not  exiles  nor  adventurers,  but  enthu- 
siastic missionaries. 


PLACES  OF   INTEREST. 

The  Post  Office  is  built  on  St,  James  Street,  the  chief 
thoroughfare  of  this  city,  opposite  the  New  St.  Lawrence 
Hall.  The  reason  why  I  use  the  word  new  may  be 
asked.  Well,  the  hotel  has  been  newly  refitted,  the 
corner  building  purchased,  one  hundred  elegant  and  com- 
modious rooms  added,  with  baths  and  closets,  electric 
bells  and  elevators,  ladies'  reception  room,  new  and 
elegantly  furnished  suites  of  rooms  added.  The  old 
proprietor,  Mr.  Hogan,  pronounced  by  connoisseurs  to 
be  the  best  landlord  in  the  dominion,   has  assumed  the 


130 


proprietorship  and  has  associated  with  him  as  manager, 
Mr.  Samuel  Montgomery,  the  best  choice  that  could  be 
made,  as  he  is  an  American  from  the  Pacific  slope, 
where  they  know  how  to  keep  a  hotel.  I  therefore 
cheerfully  recommend  you  to  stop  at  the  new  St. 
Lawrence  Hall  during  your  stay  in  Montreal.  Starting 
from  there,  it  being  the  center,  every  point  of  interest 
is  within  fifteen  minutes'  walk  of  this  hotel.  The  first 
building  to  the  left  is  the  new  Post  Office,  recently 
finished,  with  a  richly  decorated  exterior,  and  every 
internal  improvement  which  modern  ingenuity  has 
devised.  Opposite  on  the  right  is  the  celebrated  Ed. 
McEntyre,  The  Merchant  Tailor  of  Montreal,  ii6  St. 
James  St.  This  location  has  beeh  a  merchant  tailoring 
store  for  nearly  a  century.  Mr.  McEntyre  has  made  my 
clothes  for  the  past  i8  years  ;  if  he  can  fit  me,  further 
comments  are  unnecessary.  Tell  him  I  recommended 
you,  he  will  treat  you  better  for  it.  Adjoining  is  the 
Bank  of  Montreal,  in  the  Corinthian  style  of  architect- 
ure, with  a  sculpture  on  the  pediment  depicting  native 
Indians,  a  sailor  and  settler  with  the  emblems  of  the 
arts  and  trade.  The  corporation  occupying  this  noble 
building  is  the  richest  one  of  the  kind  in  America.  It 
has  branches  in  every  town  of  importance  in  the 
Dominion,  and  has  offices  in  New  York,  Chicago  and 
London.  It  issues  letters  of  credit  on  all  parts  of  the 
world.  Its  capital  and  reserve  fund  amount  to 
$18,000,000.  Adjoining  it  is  the  Imperial  Fire  Insur- 
ance Co.'s  new  building.  Crossing  the  street  on  the 
left  hand  corner,  is  the  commercial  building  of  the  New 
York  Life  Insurance  Company.  Adjoining  are  other 
banks,  having  their  offices  on  Place  d'Arms, — the 
Jacques  Cartier,  Ontario,  Quebec  and  National  Banks. 


131 


Y^ 


-i 


On  the  south  side  of  the  square,  the  great  parish  church 
of  Notre  Dame  looms  up.  The  dimensions  of  this  vast 
Norman  edifice  is  225  feet  in  length  and  134  in  width. 
Its  towers  are  230  feet  high  ;  the  western  one  contains 
the  largest  bell  in  America,  "Gross  Bourdon,"  in  weight 
29,400  pounds.  The  seating  capacity  of  the  church  is 
10,000.  It  has  recently  been  decorated  in  deep  colors 
and  gold,  after  the  manner  of  the  St.  Chappelle  at 
Paris.  An  elevator  was  added  making  the  tower  easy 
of  access  to  visitors.  Suspended  over  the  western 
gallery,  and  near  the  grand  altar,  is  an  immense  wooden 
crucifix.  This  was  brought  from  France  two  centuries 
ago,  and  first  set  up  in  the  church  built  on  the  ground 
now  Place  d'Arms.  Adjoining  Notre  Dame  is  the 
venerable  Seminary  of  St.  Sulpice,  with  its  old  gateway, 
courtyard  and  clock.  The  gentlemen  of  this  seminary 
originally  held  valuable  rights  affecting  the  entire  island 
of  Montreal  ;  much  of  the  land  yet  remains  in  their 
hands.  With  the  wealth  thus  brought  to  their  coffers, 
they  have  liberally  established  and  conducted  many 
institutions  of  charity  and  education  scattered  through- 
out the  city.  We  are  now  on  Notre  Dame  street,  for- 
merly the  chief  retail  street  in  Montreal.  Let  us  go 
on,  we  shall  soon  arrive  at  the  Court  House,  a  fine 
Grecian  building  of  simple  and  massive  appearance.  A 
few  steps  further  on  the  right  brings  us  to  Nelson's 
monument,  setting  forth  in  bas-relief  the  various 
victories  which  the  great  naval  hero  won  without  the 
loss  of  a  single  British  ship.  This  monument  is  in 
Jacques  Cartier  Square,  at  the  foot  of  which  is  the 
wharf  of  Quebec  steamers 

Keeping  on  Notre  Dame  Street,  directly  beside  the 
monument,  we  find  opposite  to  each  other  two  buildings 


132 


which  form  a  sharp  contrast.  The  one  on  the  left  is 
the  new  City  Hall,  a  lofty  and  ornate  specimen  of 
French  architecture  ;  facing  it  is  the  "  old  chateau,"  a 
structure  probably  thought  very  fine  a  century  ago, 
when  Benjamin  Franklin  set  up  in  it  the  first  printing 
press  ever  used  in  the  city.  Now  the  old  place  is  a 
Normal  school,  and  the  discoveries  of  the  illustrious 
American  are  explained  there,  and  let  us  hope  his  witty 
sayings  repeated  and  acted  upon.  We  can  now  take 
our  way  to  the  river  side,  and  a  block  from  Jacques 
Cartier  Square  shall  find  Bonsecours  Market,  a  vast 
substantial  Doric  structure.  Here,  if  it  be  market  day, 
we  may  see  a  little  of  the  French  Canadian  peasantry, 
clad  in  their  homespun,  and  bargaining  about  their 
fowls,  or  eggs  or  butter,  with  many  queer  words  and 
phrases  now  almost  forgotten  in  the  Normandy,  whence 
they  were  first  brought.  Next  to  the  market  is  Bonse- 
cours Church,  a  rough- cast  buildin^j  with  a  high  pitched 
roof,  and  with  a  breadth  of  a  few  feet  adjoining  it, 
occupied  by  cobblers  and  cake  shops.  This  church  is 
the  oldest  Roman  Catholic  one  in  the  city  ;  its  entrance 
is  at  the  farthest  side  ;  rarely  is  unoccupied  by  some 
worshippers  from  the  adjacent  market,  who  bring  in, 
without  ceremony,  their  baskets  and  bundles.  Sus- 
pended over  the  altar  is  a  model  of  a  ship  in  bright  tin; 
in  which  usually  burning  tapers  are  placed.  Returning, 
on  the  water  front,  we  note  the  ships  and  steamers 
from  Liverpool,  Glasgow,  London,  Havre,  Rotterdam 
and  other  ports  ;  and  on  the  right  successively  pass  the 
Custom  House,  a  triangular  building,  with  a  clock 
tower  ;  the  office  of  the  Allen  line,  also  having  a  clock, 
and  the  fine  building  of  the  Harbor  Commissioners. 
Next  to  it  is  a  curious  looking  pile,  with  external  hoist- 


~f, 


^i 


~x, 


133 

ways  from  top  to  bottom  ;  this  is  the  Customs  Examin- 
ing Warehouse.  Before  we  leave  this  vicinity,  we  shall 
glance  backward  at  the  street  from  Allen's  office  to  the 
Custom  House. 

Taking  a  short  journey,  still  upon  the  river  front,  we 
come  to  the  great  works  of  stone-masonry,  which  give 
to  Montreal  an  enlarged  canal  to  Lachine,  so  that  ves- 
sels of  much  greater  tonnage  than  the  ones  at  present 
used  may  be  employed  in  the  grain  trade.  This  enter- 
prise is  one  of  a  series  of  canal  improvements  by  which 
Canada  strives  to  retain  and  increase  its  business  as  a 
highway  for  the  shipment  of  western  produce  to  the 
sea-board. 

Retracing  our  steps,  we  take  the  wide  street  running 
up  from  the  river,  McGill,  and  mark  the  fine  ware- 
houses that  adorn  it.  Arriving  at  Notre  Dame  street, 
a  little  above,  on  the  left,  John  Murphy  &  Co.,  branch 
houses  in  Glasgow,  London  and  Ottawa.  They  buy  for 
cash  and  sell  for  cash,  one  price  marked  in  plain  figures 
on  all  goods — which  are  the  most  reliable,  who  invite 
you  to  inspect  their  stock,  styles  and  prices.  Adjoining 
is  Mr.  S.  Carsley,  who  occupies  the  six  or  seven  stores 
in  succession.  Something  should  be  said  here  relative 
to  Mr.  Carsley's  establishment,  which  is  admitted  to  be 
the  finest  as  well  as  the  largest  in  Canada.  In  doing 
so  I  shall  not  speak  of  the  maa  but  of  the  sterling 
features  adopted  as  a  guide  in  the  past,  which  gave  him 
prosperity  and  success.  To  secure  the  finest  and  best 
goods,  fresh  from  the  factories  or  trade  centers,  this 
establishment  has  its  principal  house  in  London,  Eng., 
as  well  as  a  resident  buyer  there.  It  also  selects  four 
of  the  best  judges  of  goods  required  for  the  home 
market,  who  go  to  the  trade  centers  of  Europe  two  or 


134 

three  times  each  year  with  "  carte  blanche  "  to  make  any 
purchases  required.  The  imported  as  well  as  the 
domestic  goods  are  all  marked  in  plain  figures,  so  that 
each  purchasei  may  know  the  price ;  therefore  a  child 
can  buy  as  well  as  a  grown  person.  I  cheerfully 
request  you  to  visit  this  model  establishment  and  inspect 
the  styles,  goods  and  prices,  and  if  you  do  not  make  a 
purchase  it  will  be  because  you  will  receive  so  much  for 
your  money  that  you  will  be  afraid  you  cannot  carry  it 
home.  Retracing  our  steps  back  to  McGill  street,  we 
turn  to  the  right,  and  immediately  in  front,  just  one 
block,  is  Victoria  Square,  which  contains  a  statue  of  the 
Queen,  by  Marshall  Wood.  Corner  St.  James  street, 
opposite,  on  the  left,  is  the  Albert  Building.  Turning 
to  the  right  we  enter  St.  James  street.  The  first  build- 
ing of  note  on  the  right  is  the  Ottawa  Building ;  on ' 
the  left  is  J.  J.  Milloy,  the  tailor,  where  tailor-made 
suits*  for  ladies  are  a  specialty.  A  little  further  on  the 
right  is  G.  W.  Clark,  the  Universal  Souvenir  PaL.je, 
where,  if  you  enter,  the  sight  of  such  rare  curiosities 
and  splendid  souvenirs  will  cause  you  to  wonder  how 
you  got  in  without  a  ticket ;  and  a  little  above  is  Drys- 
dale  &  Co.,  where  cheap  English  reprints  of  all  the 
popular  American  authors  may  be  had.  This  is  the 
largest  book  store  in  Canada.  Opposite  on  the  left  is 
R.  Sharpley  &  Sons,  No.  225,  their  new  store  ;  you  are 
cordially  invited  to  see  and  inspect  their  new  stock. 
"Alexander's"  is  a  little  above,  where  is  kept  a  first- 
class  restaurant,  confections,  "bon-bons,"  etc.,  and  you 
can  be  served  with  the  best  the  market  affords.  On  our 
way  to  the  Post  Office,  from  whence  we  started,  at  the 
corner  of  St.  Peter  street  is  the  Mechanic's  Institute. 
This  building  contains  a  good  library,  the  admission  fee 


135 


■<, 


to  which  is  only  nominal,  and  a  very  good  reading 
room,  having  on  its  tables  the  principal  dailies  of 
America,  the  London  Tima^  the  Glasgow  Herald,  the 
Dublin  Warder^  the  Edinburgh  Scotsman,  and  all  the 
weeklies,  monthlies  and  quarterlies  of  both  England  and 
the  United  States.  Strangers  can  have  free  access  to  this 
reading-room,  for  the  period  of  two  weeks,  by  applying 
to  Mr.  Hogan,  the  proprietor  of  the  new  St.  Lawrence 
Hall.  Opposite  to  the  Mechanic's  Institute  is  the 
Merchants  Bank,  built  in  modern  Italian  style,  with 
polished  granite  columns  at  the  entrance  ;  the  interior 
of  this  bank  should  be  seen  ;  the  main  ofifice  is  carried 
up  two  stories  in  height  and  is  beautifully  frescoed. 
Diagonally  across  the  street  is  Moulson's  Bank,  also  of 
Italian  design  and  richly  decorated.  We  are  now 
nearly  at  the  hotel  again,  where  we  may  conclude  for 
the  present  our  inspection  of  the  city. 

Resuming  our  sight-seeing,  we  shall  now  leave  behind 
us  the  business  streets,  and  take  our  way  to  the  upper 
part  of  Montreal.  Our  suggestion  is,  to  take  St.  James 
street  to  the  first  crossing  on  the  right  as  you  leave  the 
hotel,  St.  Peter  street.  After  two  blocks  this  street 
changes  its  name  to  Bleury  street.  At  No.  17  Bleury 
street,  we  may  enter  Notman's  studio,  a  large  handsome 
building  entirely  devoted  to  photographic  art.  Here 
we  may  spend  half  an  hour  very  pleasantly  in  looking 
over  views  of  Canadian  scenery,  and  portraits  taken 
singly  or  skillfully  grouped,  representing  the  sports  and 
pastimes  of  our  winter.  The  chief  of  these  pictures  is 
that  which  shows  a  carnival  held  at  the  Victoria  Skating 
Rink  eighteen  years  ago,  when  H.  R.  H.  Prince  Arthur 
was  present.  This  distinguished  representative  of 
Royalty  was  stationed  in  Canada  when  quite  a  youth 


136 

for  two  or  three  years— during  his  absence  has  won  the 
title  of  Duke,  married  a  Princess  and  during  the  early 
part  of  June  1890,  paid  Montreal  a  visit  where  he  wa^ 
right  royally  received.  Mr.  Notman  photographed  the 
Duke  and  Duchess  in  several  styles  of  his  art,  and 
remarked  to  me  that  the  interview  was  the  pleasure  of 
his  lifetime.  The  photographic  marvel  spoken  of 
above,  with  others  now  surrounding  it  on  the  walls  of 
Mr.  Notman,  attracted  great  attention  and  admiration 
at  the  Centennial  Exhibition.  Mr.  Notman  was 
photographer  to  the  exhibition,  and  received  its  highest 
awards. 

Continuing  on  Bleury  street,  we  soon  reach,  on  the 
left,  the  Church  of  the  Jesu,  with  St.  Mary's  College 
adjoining  it,  conducted  by  the  Jusuit  Fathers.  This 
church  is  modeled  after  one  of  the  same  name  at  Rbme^ 
where  the  remains  of  Loyola  are  entombed.  The  style 
of  architecture  is  the  round  Roman  arch.  The  interior 
is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  among  American  churches. 
Over  the  high  altar  is  a  fresco  of  the  crucifixion.  In  the 
southern  transcept  the  sufferings  of  the  first  Canadian 
martyr,  burnt  by  savages  are  depicted.  Leaving  the 
elegant  house  of  prayer,  we  shall  continue  on  Bleury 
street  until  we  come  to  St.  Catharine  Street.  A  few 
steps  bring  us  to  the  Nazareth  Asylum  for  the  Blind, 
attached  to  which  (No.  109 1)  is  a  most  ornate  chapel, 
decorated  in  such  a  lovely  manner  as  to  lead  one  to 
suppose  that  it  was  done  to  encourage  the  suffering 
inmates  of  the  asylum  to  see. 

Next  building  on  this  side  of  the  street  (No.  1097)  is 
the  Roman  Catholic  Commercial  Academy,  a  lordly 
monument  of  wealth  and  munificence,  containing  all  the 
modern  appliances  for  the  practical  training  of  youth, 


137 


■Ki 


and  presided  over  by  an  able  staff  of  professors.  If  we 
keep  going  eastward  on  St.  Catherine  street,  we  pass  on 
St.  Dennis  street  the  immense  parish  church  of  St.  James, 
with  the  tallest  spire  in  the  city.  Near  by  is  the  new 
church  which  is  dedicated  to  Notre  Dame  De  Lourdes  ; 
water  and  relics  from  her  shrine  at  Lourdes,  in  France, 
are  for  sale  in  the  basement.  Adjoining  the  church  are 
its  conventual  buildings. 

Returning  on  St.  Catherine  street,  we  soon  come  to 
Christ  Church  Cathedral  (Church  of  England),  unques- 
tionably the  most  beautiful  specimen  of  Gothic  archi-, 
tecture  in  Canada.  It  is  of  a  cruciform,  design  ; 
its  extreme  width  is  loo  feet.  The  spire,  which  is 
entirely  of  stone,  rises  to  the  height  of  224  feet.  The 
materials  of  construction  are  Montreal  limestone  and 
stone  from  Caen  in  Normandy,  which  latter,  by  exposure 
to  the  weather,  has  changed  from  almost  pure  whiteness 
to  a  yellow  tint.  On  the  grounds  of  the  Cathedral  are 
erected  the  residences  of  the  bishop  and  his  assistants, 
the  Synod  Hall,  and  also  a  "fine  monument  to  Bishop 
Fulford,  the  first  Metropolitan  of  Canada.  The  street 
running  on  the  farther  side  of  the  Cathedral  is  Univer- 
sity Street,  and  No.  82,  one  block  distant,  is  the  Natural 
History  Museum,  containing  a  good  Canadian  collection- 
University  street  leads  us  down  to  Dorchester  street,  on 
the  corner  of  which  is  the  St.  James  Club  House.  On 
the  opposite  corner  is  the  Free  Fraser  Library  Building. 
Taking  Dorchester  street  eastward,  we  pass  on  the  left 
St.  Paul's  Church  (Presbyterian).  On  the  same  side  we 
soon  have  a  view  of  the  vast  proportions  of  the  new 
St.  Peter's  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral. 

Across  the  square  on  which  St.  Peter's  is  building,  we 
notice  a  beautiful  church,  St.  George's  (Church  of  Eng- 


138 

land),  and  adjoining  it  is  the  Sunday  School,  the  largest 
and  best  conducted  in  Canada.  On  Dorchester  street, 
fronting  Dominion  Square  on  Peel  street,  is  the  Windsor 
Hotel.  A  little  below  on  Windsor  street  is  the  new 
depot  of  the  Canada  Pacific  R.  R.,  the  largest  and 
grandest  in  Canada.  Next  beyond  on  Dorchester  street 
is  the  Victoria  Skating  Rink,  where  immens  ~  carnivals 
are  held  in  the  winter — the  grandest  in  the  world.  In 
the  summer  the  spacious  edifice  is  used  for  concerts, 
walking  matches,  public  gatherings,  meetings,  etc. 

Two  blocks  distant  is  thv.  foundling  hospital  of  the 
(rray  Nun,  a  visit  to  which  is  thus  described  :  "  A  long 
procession  of  the  nuns  marched  slowly  into  the  chapel 
and  knelt  in  prayer.  Each  nun  had  a  crucifix  and  a 
string  of  beads  attached,  and  whatever  may  have  been 
the  case  with  their  thoughts,  their  eyes  never  wande'red, 
notwithstanding  strangers  were  gazing  at  them.  Some 
were  young  and  pretty,  others  old  and  plain,  but  the 
sacred  character  of  their  labor  of  love  invested. them  all 
with  beauty.  We  said  the  eyes  of  none  wandered. 
Perhaps  we  ought  to  confess  that  the  quick,  sharp 
glance  of  one,  apparently  younger  than  the  others,  stared 
at  us  for  a  moment  ;  but  it  was  only  curiosity — wom- 
anly curiosity — and  what  woman  has  not  the  curiosity 
to  look*  at  me  ?  Yet  that  moment  was  fruitful  of 
thought,  and  as  we  saw  the  sad,  dark-eyed  beauty  rise 
in  her  place  and  mechanically  follow  her  more  staid 
sisters,  our  mind  went  back  to  the  days  of  chivalry, 
when  gallant  knights  rode  with  lance  at  rest,  or  wielded 
the  heavy  battle  axe  in  heroic  deeds  that  they  might 
win  recognition  from  the  proud  ladies  who  locked  down 
upon  them.  And  as  we  thought,  it  seemed  that  the 
most  gallant  deeds  that  men  of  this  nineteenth  century 


139 


u 


/ 

■»•■ 


might  do,  would  be  to  rescue  young  and  pretty  nuns — 
who  wanted  to  be  rescued,  from  the  silence  and  sadness 
of  the  nunnery."  Again,  on  our  way,  we  are  arrested 
by  an  immense  structure  even  larger  than  the  institu- 
tion just  passed  ;  it  is  the  Montreal  College,  which 
educates  ecclesiastics,  and  also  day  pupils,  and  is  under 
the  care  of  the  Sulpician  fathers.  Two  Martello  towers 
in  front  of  the  college  are  relics  of  the  times  when 
incessant  strife  raged  between  the  settlers  and  the 
Indians.  Sherbrooke  street  is  adorned' with  the  private 
residences  of  which  the  citizens  of  Montreal  are  proud, 
and  in  your  drive  around  the  town,  previous  to  or  after 
returning  from  Park  Mountain  drive,  it  will  repay  one 
to  drive  through  Sherbrooke,  Dennis  and  Dorchester 
streets.  The  McGill  College,  University  and  spacious 
grounds  are  the  next  points. 

As  we  pass  along  Sherbrook  street,  in  the  distance 
we  observe  as  we  glance  up  St.  Famille  street,  the 
enormous  Hotel  Dieu,  with  a  large,  bright  dome,  a  free 
hospital  for  all,  under  Roman  Catholic  direction. 

Returning  to  the  postoffice,  preferably  by  Beaver 
Hall  Hill,  we  shall  not  fail  to  be  struck  by  the  number 
of  handsome  churches  erected  there  together.  On  the 
right  is  the  Unitarian  Church  ;  on  the  left,  successively, 
a  Presbyterian,  Baptist  and  a  Jewish  Synagogue.  Near 
by,  on  Craig  street,  is  a  towered  building  occupied  by 
the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association. 

We  are  soon  at  the  new  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  and  before 
mentioning  the  drive  that  may  be  taken  outside  the  city, 
it  may  be  well  to  call  attention  to  a  few  places  near  at 
hand  a  business  man  or  student  may  be  interested  in 
visiting  :  The  Corn  Exchange,  foot  of  St.  John  street ; 
the   Merchant's   Exchange,   St.  Sacrament  street ;  the 


I 


140 

oflfice  of  the  Telegraph  Co.,  and  the  Open  Stock 
Exchange,  St.  Francis  Xavier  street.  Near  the  begin- 
ning of  St.  Jan?es  street,  on  St.  Gabriel  street,  is  the 
Geological  Museum,  open  daily  from  10  to  4,  containing 
an  admirable  collection  of  Nor*^h  American  minerals, 
and  many  interesting  fossils.  Here  may  be  seen  what 
many  geologists  regard  as  the  most  primitive  record  of 
life,  the  Eoxoon  Canaddense^  first  noticed  at  Perth, 
Ontario,  by  a  Mr.  Wilson.  From  the  fact  that  the  old- 
est ^ossil  bearing  stratum,  the  Laurentian,  is  the  back- 
bone, geographically,  of  Canada,  and  because  of  the 
great  variety  of  rocks  found  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
or  Montreal,  this  museum  is  particularly  attractive  to  a 
lover  of  science.  An  effort  is  on  foot  to  deprive  the 
city  of  ti^is  collection,  and  for  the  sake  of  centralization, 
remove  it  ;o  Ottawa.  I  offer  this  as  an  apology  in  case 
it  should  be  removed. 


r  RIVES. 

As  I  have  said  two  or  three  times,  by  far  the  most 
pleasant  drive  is  up  the  brow  of  Mount  Royal,  called 
the  Park  M.ountain  Drive.  There  are  presumably,  two 
roads  ;  the  shorter  returns  by  McTavish  street,  the  other 
by  Bleury.  The  park  was  laid  out  by  Mr.  Olmstead, 
the  designer  of  Central  Park,  New  York,  whose  achieve- 
ments there  were  recognized  by  a  statue  adorning  one 
of  the  entrances.  The  river  view  from  Mount  Royal  is 
delightful,  and  must  be  seen  to  be  appreciated.  I  dare 
not  attempt  to  describe  it.  A  suggestion  of  how  to  get 
a  hundred  pictures  of  every  conceivable  shape  or  form 
of  landscape  views,  containing  mountain,  plain,  river, 
lake,  hillside,  valley,  etc.,  etc.,  is  to  close  the  eyes,  place 
the  hands  on  each  end  of  the  forehead,  and  every  time 


141 

the  carriage  moves  a  hundred  feet  open  the  eyes,  and 
you  have  an  entire  new  picture.  Keep  this  up  until  you 
have  had  an  elegant  sufficiency  of  view.  The  next  drive 
is  around  the  mountain,  and  was  the  best  until  the  com- 
pletion of  the  Park  mountain  drive  ;  it  is  pleasant  and 
attractive,  when  it  includes  a  drive  to  the  Cattiolic  and 
Protestant  cemeteries,  giving  a  view  of  the  monuments 
and  tombs.  The  drive  to  Lachine  is  next,  and  is  of 
interest.  The  drive  to  Longue  Point,  along  the  St, 
Lawrence  in  the  opposite  direction  to  the  last,  gives  us  f 
an  entirely  different  kind  of  scenery.  It  takes  us  through 
the  village  of  Hochelaga,  the  terminus  of  the  new  rail- 
road, the  Quebec,  Montreal,  Ottawa  &  Occidental,  which 
runs  along  the  north  shore  of  the  St,  Lawrence,  and 
develops  tracts  of  country  as  yet  unbenefited  by  the 
iron  horse.  About  a  mile  from  the  depot  is  the  beauti- 
ful convent  of  the  Sisters  of  the  Holy  names  of  Jesus 
and  Mary.  Many  young  ladies  from  the  United  States 
have  been  educated  at  this  convent.  The  next  note- 
worthy building  is  the  Lunatic  Asylum.  This  immense 
house,  containing  nearly  300  maniacs,  idiots  and 
imbeciles,  is  controlled  by  the  Sisters  of  Providence  ; 
these  ladies,  with  the  exception  of  six  guardians  for 
desperate  characters,  and  a  physician,  have  sole  charge. 
They  find  no  trouble  in  the  care  of  the  numerous 
inmates,  and  by  their  kindness  and  tact  restore  mental 
balance,  in  all  the  cases  where  cure  is  possible,  in  a 
tithe  the  time  it  used  to  take  in  the  old  days,  when  the 
msane  were  treated  with  harshness  and  cruelty.  On  our 
way  to  Longue  Point,  the  village  of  Longueuil,  Boucher- 
ville  and  Varennes  lie  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
river.  The  drive  to  the  Back  River  is  an  attractive  one, 
and  with  citizens  the  most  attractive  of  all ;  the  beauti- 


fl  ^t 


I       i 


143 

ful  convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart  is  situated  here,  and 
its  grounds,  finely  laid  out,  lead  directly  to  the  water's 
edge.  The  bridge  which  spans  the  river  at  this  place — 
a  branch  of  the  Ottawa — affords  one  of  the  character- 
istic sights  of  Canada,  the  piloting  of  a  raft  through  a 
tortuous  channel.  The  size  of  an  ordinary  raft,  its 
great  value,  from  $100,000  to  $300,000,  the  excitement 
of  the  captain  and  his  French  and  Indian  crew,  with  the 
constant  perils  threatening  the  whole  structure,  all  con- 
f  join  to  make  up  a  scene  to  be  dwelt  upon  and  long 
remembered.  Thus  hoping  the  same  will  be  said  of 
your  visit  to  Montreal,  I  shall  advise  you  to  visit 

QUEBEC. 

Tourists  can  either  take  the  Grand  Trunk,  the  North 
Shore  or  the  Richelieu  &  Ontario  Navigation  Co.'s  l,ine 
of  steamers.  Tickets  can  be  procured  of  the  company's 
agent  opposite  the  new  St.  Lawrence  Hall  building, 
where  state  rooms,  etc.,  may  be  secured.  I  assume  that 
the  river  is  the  route  selected,  and  that  the  reader  is 
fairly  on  his  way  to  that  ancient  city  and  former  capital. 
Passing  a  group  of  islands  below  Montreal  and  the 
mouth  of  the  Ottawa  River,  we  soon  arrive  at 

SOREL, 

forty-five  miles  below — the  first  landing  made  by  the 
steamer.  It  was  built  upon  the  site  of  a  fort  built  in 
i755>  by  M.  De  Tracy,  and  was  for  many  years  the  sum- 
mer residence  of  many  successive  Governors  of  Canada. 
Five  miles  below,  the  broad  expanse  of  the  river  is  called 

LAKE    ST.  PETER, 

which  is  about  nine  miles  wide.  The  St.  Francis  River 
enters  here.  Large  rafts  are  observed  here  slowly 
floating  to  the  great  mart  of  Quebec. 


143 
THREE   RIVERS 

is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Rivers  St.  Maurice 
and  St.  Lawrence,  ninety  miles  below  Montreal,  and 
the  same  distance  above  Quebec.  It  is  one  of  the 
oldest  settled  towns  in  Canada,  having  been  founded  in 
1618.  It  is  well  laid  out  and  contains  many  good 
buildings,  among  which  are  the  Court  House,  the  Jail, 
the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  the  Ursuline  Convent,  the 
English  and  Wesleyan  Churches.  The  population  of 
Three  Rivers  is  about  9,200. 


BASTICAN 


is  situated  on  the  north  shore  of  the  river,  one  hundred 
and  seventeen  miles  below  Montreal.  It  is  the  last 
place  the  steamers  stop  at  before  reaching  Quebec.  It 
is  a  place  of  little  importance. 

In  passing  down  the  St.  Lawrence  from  Montreal,  the 
country  upon  its  banks  presents  a  sameness  in  its  general 
scenery  until  we  approach  the  vicinity  of  Quebec.  The 
villages  and  hamlets  are  decidedly  French  in  character, 
generally  made  up  of  small  buildings,  the  better  class  of 
which  are  painted  white  or  whitewashed  with  red  roofs. 
Prominent  in  the  distance  appear  the  tile-covered  spires 
of  the  Catholic  churches,  which  are  all  constructed  in 
that  unique  style  of  architecture  so  peculiar  to  that 
church. 

During  your  stay  in  Quebec  stop  at  the  St.  Louis 
Hotel,  and  if  carriages  are  desired  the  hotel  will  furnish 
the  same.  Tourists  are  invited  to  visit  the  Fur  Wareroom 
adjoining  the   Ladies'   Parlor,   containing  one  of  the 


\ 


\ 


1   I 


144 

largest  and  most  valuable  stocks  of  furs  in  Canada  at 
moderate  prices.  Ladies'  sacques,  caps  and  muffs,  etc. 
There  are  four  splendid  drives  laid  out  for  the  visitor 
and  tourist  ;  a  neat  little  pamphlet  descriptive  of 
the  same,  entitled  "  Views  of  the  city  of  Quebec," 
will  be  given  you  by  asking  the  clerk,  Mr.  W.  G.  O'Neill, 
Manager,  or  the  news  agent,  of  the  St.  Louis  Hotel. 
They  are  instructed  not  to  give  them  ^■^ free*'  unless 
you  say  I  sent  you  for  one  or  show  them  this  notice. 


CITY  OF  QUEBEC. 

Quebec,  by  its  historic  fame  and  its  unequaled  scenery, 
is  no  ordinary  or  commonplace  city,  for  though,  like 
other  large  communities,  it  carries  on  trade,  commerce 
and  manufactures;  cultivates  art,  science  and  literature  ; 
abounds  in  charities,  and  professes  special  regard  to  the 
amenities  of  social  life,  it  claims  particular  attention  as 
being  a  strikingly  unique  old  place,  the  stronghold  of 
Canada,  and,  in  fact,  the  Key  of  the  Province.  Viewed 
from  any  of  its  approaches,  it  impresses  the  stranger 
with  the  conviction  of  strength  and  permanency.  The 
reader  of  American  history,  on  entering  its  gates  or 
wandering  over  its  squares,  ramparts  and  battle-fields 
puts  himself  at  once  in  communion  with  the  illustrious 
dead.  The  achievements  of  daring  mariners,  the 
labors  of  self-sacrificing  Missionaries  of  the  Cross,  and 
the  conflicts  of  military  heroes,  who  bled  and  died  in 
the  assault  and  defence  of  its  walls,  are  here  re-read 
with  ten-fold  interest.  Then  the  lover  of  nature  in  her 
grandest  and  most  rugged,  as  in  her  gentler  and  most 
smiling  forms,  will  find  in  and  around  it  an  affluence  of 


145 


ad  a  at 
fs,  etc. 
visitor 
ive  of 
lebec," 
)'Neili, 

Hotel. 

unless 
ce. 


cenery, 
h,  like 
nru^rce 
rature  ; 
1  to  the 
ition  as 
lold  of 
Viewed 
tranger 
r.     The 
ates  or 
e-fiekis 
istrious 
rs,    the 
>ss,  and 
died  in 
re- read 
in   her 
d   most 
ence  of 


v-> 


sublime  and  beautiful  objects.  The  man  of  science, 
too,  may  be  equally  gratified,  for  here  the  great  forces 
of  nature  and  secret  alchemy  may  be  studied  with 
advantage.  Quebec  can  never  be  a  tame  or  insipid 
J  '.^  ^  place,  and  with  moderate  opportunities  for  advancement, 
it  must  become  one  of  the  greatest  cities  of  the  New 
World  in  respect  to  learning  art,  commerce  and  manu- 
factures. 

The  city  of  Quebec  was  founded  by  Samuel  de  Cham- 
plain  in  1608.  In  1622  the  population  was  reduced  to 
fifty  souls. 

In  June,  1759,  the  English  army  under  General  Wolfe 
landed  upon  the  Island  of  Orleans.  On  the  12th  of 
September  took  place  the  celebrated  battle  of  the  Plains 
of  Abraham,  which  resulted  in  the  death  of  Wolfe  and 
the  defeat  of  the  French  army.  A  force  of  5,000  Eng- 
lish troops,  under  General  Murray,  were  left  to  garrison 
the  fort.  The  city  is  very  interesting  to  a  stranger;  it 
^       is  the  only  walled  city  in  North  America. 

Cape  Diamond,  upon  which  the  citadel  stands,  is  three 

hundred  and  forty-five  feet   in  height,   and   derives   its 

■   name  from  the  qur  atity  of  crystal  mixed  with  the  granite 

below   its  surface.     The  fortress   includes  the    whole 

space  on  the  Cape. 

Above  the  spot  where  General  Montgomery  was 
killed,  is  now  the  inclined  plane,  running  to  the  top  of 
the  bank  ;  it  is  five  hundred  feet  long,  and  is  used  by 
the  Government  to  convey  stgres  and  other  articles  of 
great  weight  to  the  fortress. 

THE  CITADEL 

^     will,  perhaps,  prove   th-^   point  of  greatest  interest   to 
'      many,  from  the  historical  association   connected  there- 
with, and  from  the  fact  that  it  is  considered  an  impreg- 


I ' 


146 

nable  fortress.  It  covers  an  enclosed  area  of  forty  acres, 
and  is  some  three  hundred  and  forty  feet  above  the  river 
level.  The  zigzag  passages  through  which  you  enter 
the  fortress,  between  high  and  massive  granite  walls, 
are  swept  at  every  turn  by  formidable  batteries  of  heavy 
guns.  On  the  forbidding  river  walls  and  at  each  angle 
of  possible  commanding  point,  guns  of  heavy  calibre 
sweep  every  avenue  of  approach  by  the  river.  Ditches, 
breast  works  and  frowning  batteries  command  the 
approaches  by  land  from  the  famed  "  Plains  of  Abraham." 
The  precipitous  bluffs,  rising  almost  perpendicularly 
from  the  river  three  hundred  and  forty  feet,  present  a 
natural  barrier  which  may  be  swept  with  murderous  fire, 
and  the  covered  ways  of  approach  and  retreat,  the 
various  kinds  and  calibre  of  guns,  mortars,  howitzers, 
and  munitions  of  war,  will  be  viewed  with  eager  intere'st. 
Among  the  places  of  note  may  be  mentioned  the  Plains 
of  Abraham,  with  its  humble  monument  marking  the 
place  where  fell  the  illustrious  Wolfe  ;  the  Governor's 
Garden,  with  its  monument  to  Wolfe  and  Montcalm  ; 
the  spot  where  fell  the  American  General,  Montgomery  ; 
St.  John's  Gate,  the  only  gate  remaining  of  the  five  that 
originally  pierced  the  walls  of  the  city  ;  the  Roman 
Catholic  Cathedral,  with  its  many  fine  old  paintings  ; 
the  Episcopal  Cathedral ;  the  Esplanade,  from  which  is 
one  of  the  finest  views  in  the  world  ;  House  of  Parlia- 
ment ;  Spencer  Wood,  the  residence  of  the  Lieutenant 
Governor,  Laval  University,  &c.,  &c. 

The  city  and  environs  abound  in  drives,  varying  from 
five  to  thirty-five  miles,  in  addition  to  being  on  the 
direct  line  of  travel  Lo  the  far-famed  Saguenay,  Murray 
Bay,  Kamouraska,  C-C.Seeacouna,  Rimouski  Gaspe,  and 
other  noted  watering  places. 


147 


^1 

■^1 


,-  J.  . 


Quebec  can  minister  abundantly  to  the  tastes  of  tliose 
who  like  to  fish,  yacht,  or  shoot.  Yachting,  in  fact,  has 
become  of  late  the  leading  recreation  in  Quebec.  You 
can  on  those  mellow  Saturday  afternoons  of  August  and 
September,  meet  the  whole  sporting  and  fashionable 
world  of  Upper  Town  on  the  Durham  Terrace  or 
Lower  town  wharves,  bent  on  witnessing  a  trial  of 
speed  or  seamanship  between  the  "  Mouette,"  the  "  Black 
Hawk,"  the  "Wasp,"  the  "  Shannoh,"  the  "  Bonhomme 
Richard,"  and  hMf  a  score  of  crack  yachts,  with  their 
owners. 

Let  us  see  what  the  city  contains  : — First  the  west 
wing,  built  about  1789,  by  Governor  Haldimand,  to 
enlarge  the  olr*  chateau  burnt  dowiT  in  January,  1734  ; 
this  mouldering  pile,  now  used  as  the  Normal  School,  is 
all  that  remains  of  the  stately  edifice  of  old,  overhang- 
ing and  facing  the  Cul-de-Sac,  where  the  lordly  Count 
de  Frontenac  held  his  quasi  regal  court  in  1691  ;  next, 
the  Laval  University,  founded  in  1854,  conferring 
degrees  under  its  royal  charter  ;  the  course  of  study  is 
similar  to  that  of  the  celebrated  European  University  of 
Louvain  ;  then  there  is  the  Quebec  Seminary,  erected 
by  Bishop  Laval,  at  Montmorency,  in  1663 ;  the 
Ursuline  Convent,  founded  in  1836  by  Madame  de  la 
Peltrie ;  this  nunnery,  with  the  Roman  Catholic 
Cathedral,  which  was  built  in  1646,  contains  many 
valuable  paintings,  which  left  France  about  1789  ;  the 
General  Hospital,  founded  two  centuries  ago  by 
Monseigneur  de  St.  Vallier  ;  in  1659,  it  was  the  chief 
hospital  for  the  wounded  and  the  dying  of  the  memor- 
able battle  of  the  13th  September;  Arnold  and  his 
Continentals  found  protection  against  the  rigors  of  a 
Canadian  winter  behind  its  walls  in  1775-6;  the  Hotel 


148 

Dieu  Nunnery,  close  to  Palace  Gate,  dating  more  than 
200  years  back. 

As  to  the  views  to  be  obtained  from  Durham  Terrace, 
the  Glacis  and  the  Citadel,  they  are  unique  in  grandeur. 
Each  street  has  its  own  familiar  vista  of  the  surround- 
ing country. 


THE  SHRINE  AND  FALLS  OF  STE.  ANNE. 

At  the  distance  of  about  twenty  miles  below  Quebec 
is  the  village  of  Ste.  Anne  de  Beaupre,  sometimes 
called  Ste.  Anne  du  Nord,  and  always  called  La  Bonne 
Ste.  Anfie^  to  whom  is  consecrated  the  parish  church, 
erected  about  four  years  ago  by  the  Pope  into  a  shrine 
of  the  first  order,  in  which  is  a  fine  painting  by  the 
famous  artist  Le  Brun,  Ste.  Anne  and  the  Virgin,  pi;e- 
sented  by  M.  de  Tracey,  Viceroy  of  New  France,  in 
1666,  to  the  church,  for  benefits  received.  The  festival 
day  of  this  Saint  is  the  26th  of  July,  at  which  time 
thousands  of  pilgrims  proceed  not  only  by  steamer  and 
carriage,  but  on  foot,  to  this  holy  shrine  ;  many  walk 
the  whole  distance  from  Quebec  to  the  church  as  a 
penance,  or  in  performance  of  vows.  The  church  is  a 
new  building,  the  old  one  having  been  found  too  small 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  crowds  of  pilgrims  who 
resorted  there.  In  it  are  placed  thousands  of  crutches, 
left  by  those  who  departed  after  being  cured  of  the 
lameness  and  other  maladies  by  the  Bonne  Ste.  Anne, 
whose  praises  are  world  wide,  for  hither  c:mgregate 
daily  thousands  of  pilgrims  from  all  parts  to  be  cured 
of  their  infirmities.  Deposited  in  the  sanctuary  is  a 
holy  relic,  being  a  finger  bone  of  the  saint  herself,  on 
kissing  which  the  devotee  is  immediately  relieved   of 


149 


H 


all  worldly  ills  and  misfortunes.  Wonder  begins  and 
misbelief  vanishes  on  gazing  at  the  piles  of  crutches; 
there  one  beholds  unmistakable  evidence  of  the 
unlimited  medicinal  powers  of  the  mother  of  the 
Virgin.  Daily  are  the  proofs  of  this  power  ;  the 
stranger  can  see  with  his  own  eyes  the  decrepit, 
the  halt,  the  sore,  the  lame,  the  wounded  carried  into 
the  holy  sanctuary  and  depart  therefrom,  after  kissing 
the  holy  relic,  cured  and  whole.  Many  are  the  scenes 
here  witnessed  of  the  despairing  filled  with  renewed 
hope,  and  the  feeble  and  faint  glad  again  with  strength 
and  health.  Countless  are  the  anecdotes  or  the 
hopelessly  blind  and  lame  returning  to  their  friends 
with  sight  and  firm  limbs,  leaving  behind  them  their 
bandages  and  crutches.  Incredulity  vanishes  before 
such  evidence,  and  the  sceptic  leaves  the  shrine  of  Ste. 
Anne  with  convictions  deeply  settled  in  his  soul. 
Within  three  miles  of  the  village  are  the  Falls  of  Ste. 
Anne,  which  consist  of  seven  cascades,  one  of  which 
rushes  through  a  narrow  chasm,  which  can  be  leaped 
by  one  of  strong  nerves  and  sinews,  but  powerful  as 
Ste.  Anne  is,  and  devoted  as  she  is  to  miracles,  it  is 
doubtful  whether  even  she  could  save  the  unfortunate 
who  misses  his  leap. 

The  fishing  above  and  below  the  Falls  is  very 
good  for  both  salmon  and  trout,  and  the  scenery  of 
that  wild  description  generally  characteristic  of  the 
Laurentian  ranges. 

MONTMORENCY  FALLS 

are  seven  miles  below  Quebec.  The  road  is  very 
pleasant,  passing  through  the  French  village  of 
Beauport.    Those  who  expect  to  see  a  second  Niagara 


150 

will  be  somewhat  disappointed,  as  far  as  volume  is 
concerned.  The  stream  descends  in  silvery  threads, 
over  a  precipice  .265  feet  in  height,  and,  in  connection 
with  the  surroundinjf  scenery,  is  extremely  picturesque 
and  beautiful,  but  does  not  inspire  the  awe  felt  at 
Niagara.  On  June  8,  1887,  with  some  friends  we  paid 
this  delightful  place  a  visit,  and  were  entertained  by  the 
hotel  proprietor,  Mr.  T.  Bureau,  in  royal  style,  which, 
after  the  tramp  over  all  the  grounds  and  down  the 
three  hundred  and  sixty-five  steps  with  the  thermometer 
85"  in  the  shade,  will  always  be  retained  as  one  of  the 
grandest  spots  in  memory. 

POINT  LEVIS, 

on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  opposite  Quebec, 
will  interest  the  stranger  very  much,  immense  and 
stupendous  fortifications  being  in  process  of  erection. 
Most  tourists  visiting  Quebec  pay  the  Saguenay  a  visit. 
The  ticket  office  of  this  line  is  opposite  the  St.  Louis 
Hotel,  where  my  genial  friend,  Mr.  R  M.  Stocking,  or 
his  assistant,  Mr.  Henry  Harris,  will  cheerfully  impart 
any  info  mation  required,  he  being  the  agent  for  all 
railroads  and  steamboats  in  Canada  or  that  connect 
with  the  same  in  the  United  States. 


TO  SUMMER  TOURISTS. 

Visit  St.  Lawrence  Hall  Caconna.  This  elegant  and 
spacious  hotel,  situated  at  the  beauitful  and  fashionable 
Canadian  Watering  place  on  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence, 
one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  below  Quebec,  opposite 
the  mouth  of  the  far-famed  Saguenay  River,  opened 
for  guests  June   isth,   under  the   management  of  an 


H. 


> 


W 


151 

American  of  hotel  fame,  who  for  many  years  has  been 
connected  with  the  leading  hotels  in  the  United  States. 
Mr.  R.  M.  Stocking's  ticket  office  opposite  St.  Louis 
Hotel  will  secure  rooms  for  you  at  St.  Lawrence  Hall 
Caconna  by  telegraph  without  extra  charge. 

RIVER  SAGUENAY. 

To  the  pleasure-seeker  or  the  man  of  science,  there 
can  be  nothing  more  refreshing  and  delightful,  nothing 
affording  more  food  for  reflection  or  scientific  observa- 
tion, than  a  trip  to  that  most  wonderful  of  rivers,  the 
Saguenay.  On  the  way  thither,  the  scenery  on  the 
Lower  St.  Lawrence  is  extraordinarily  picturesque  ;  a 
broad  expanse  of  water,  interspersed  with  rugged  soli- 
tary islets,  highly  cultivated  islands,  and  islands  covered 
with  trees  to  the  water's  edge,  hemmed  in  by  lofty  and 
precipitous  mountains  on  one  side,  and  by  a  continuous 
street  of  houses,  relieved  by  beautifully  situated  vil- 
lages, the  spires  of  whose  tin  covered  churches  glitter 
in  the  sunshine,  affords  a  prospect  so  enchanting  that 
were  nothing  else  to  be  seen,  the  tourist  would  be  well 
repaid  ;  but  when,  in  addition  to  all  this,  the  tourist, 
suddenly  passes  from  a  landscape  unsurpassed  for 
beauty  into  a  region  of  primitive  grandeur,  where  art 
has  done  nothing  and  nature  everything  ;  when  at  a 
single  bound,  civilization  is  left  behind  and  nature  stares 
him  in  the  face,  in  naked  majesty  ;  when  he  sees  Alps 
on  Alps  arise,  when  he  floats  over  unfathomable  depths, 
through  a  mountain  gorge,  the  sublime  entirely  over- 
whelms the  sense  of  sight  and  fascinates  imagination. 

The  change  produced  upon  the  thinking  part  of  man, 
in  passing  from  the  broad  St.  Lawrence  into  the  seem- 


152 

iiigly  narrow,  and  awful,  deep  Saguenay,  whose  waters 
leave  the  sides  of  the  towering  mountains  which  almost 
shut  out  the  light  of  heaven,  is  such  tha'  no  pen  can 
paint  or  tongue  describe.  It  is  a  river  one  ^-hould  see 
if  only  to  knc  wb  dreadful  aspects  nature  can 
assume  in  wild  m 'C'ls  Compared  to  it  the  Dead  Sea 
is  blooming,  and  the  .v'!  i^^st  ravines  cosy  and  smiling  ; 
it  is  wild  and  grand,  appa'<  'ly  in  spite  of  itself.  On 
either  side  rise  cliffs  varying  in  perpendicular  height 
from  1,200  to  1,600  feet,  and  this  is  the  character  of  the 
River  Saguenay  from  its  mouth  to  its  source.  Ha!  Ha! 
Bay,  which  is  60  miles  from  its  mouth,  affords  the  first 
landing  and  anchorage.  The  name  of  this  bay  is  said 
to  arise  from  the  circumstances  of  early  navigators  pro- 
ceeding in  sailing  vessels  up  a  river  of  this  kind  for  60 
miles,  with  eternal  sameness  of  feature,,  stern  and  high 
rocks  on  which  they  could  not  land,  and  no  bottom  for 
their  anchors,  at  last  broke  out  into  a  laughing  Ha!  Ha! 
when  they  found  landing  and  anchorage. 

This  wonderful  river  seems  one  huge  mountain  rent 
asunder  at  some  remote  age  by  some  great  convulsion 
of  nature.  The  reader  who  goes  to  see  it  (and  all  ought 
to  do  so  who  can,  for  it  is  one  of  the  great  natural  won- 
ders of  the  continent,)  can  add  to  the  poetical  filling  up 
of  the  picture  from  his  own  imagination. 

This  beautiful  trip  is  easy  and  facile  of  accomplish- 
ment as  new  and  magnificent  boats,  rivaling  in  luxuri- 
ousness  with  any  in  our  inland  waters,  run  regularly  to 
Ha!  Ha!  Bay,  on  board  of  which  the  pleasure  seeker 
will  experience  all  that  comfort  and  accomodation 
which  is  necessary  to  the  full  enjoyment  of  such  a  trip. 

To  the  foregoing  descriptions  we  append  an  extract 
from  the  letter  of  a  writer  in  the  Buffalo  Commercial 


U, 


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Sea 


\ 


«53 

Advertiser^  who  has  apparently  gone  over  the  "  ground  " 
with  much  satisfaction.  Speaking  of  the  great  pleasure 
route  he  says  : 

"There  n  probably  no  route  in  the  known  world 
i^  presenting  irore  attractions  to  the  tourist  than  that 
"^  from  Buffalo  to  Montreal  and  Quebec,  via  Lake  Ontario 
and  the  St.  Lawrence  River ;  presenting,  first,  the 
visit  to  the  great  Cataract,  next.  Lake  Ontario,  the 
River  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  romantic  scenery  o*"  <^he 
*  Thousand  Isles  ; '  then  the  sublime  rapids,  incre^i si?  ;, 
in  grandeur,  to  the  great  culmination  of  the  *1  chir;<; 
Rapids,*  and  finally  finishing  with  the  beautifu'  "ei  ".ry 
of  and  around  the  falls  of  Montmorency,  at  Qi  oec, 
and  down  the  Saguenay — all  combine  to  mak'  p  "lore 
of  the  -.^iid,  romantic  and  sublime  than  can  be  lound  in 
the  .same  number  of  m.iles  and  almost  any  traveled  route 
in  the  known  world." 

Returning  to  Montreal  for  our  trip  down  Lake 
^  Champlain  and  Lake  George,  to  Saratoga,  Albany,  New 
York  and  Boston,  as  most  of  the  tourists  have  tickets 
to  these  destinations,  the  routes  need  only  be  mentioned. 
The  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  Company  Railroad, 
and  Central  Vermont  have  ticket  offices  in  Montreal, 
where  information  is  courteously  dispensed  by  obliging, 
gentlemanly  clerks  at  all  times.  It  would  be  useless 
here  to  print  the  time  tables  of  the  different  roadS)  as 
changes  occur  too  often  for  such  information  to  be 
reliable.  As  you  are  supposed  to  be  quartered  at  the 
new  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  which  is  in  the  heart  of  the  city, 
and  contains  the  Grand  Trunk  Railroad  and  Delaware 
&  Hudson  Canal  Company  offices,  where  at  all  times 
""'i'^J  may  be  found  Mr.  W.  H.  Henry,  the  Delaware  &  Hudson 
Company's  genial  Agent  for  the  Dominion  of  Canada, 


,h  — -. 


!mfB!mmKKi9-m 


directly  opposite  is  the  Central  Vermont  office,  presided 
over  by  A.  C.  Stonegrave,  any  time-table  required  is 
easily  obtainable  ;  a  little  above  on  right  hand  corner 
is  the  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation  Company. 

BURLINGTON,  VT., 

is  a  beautiful  city  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Champlain,  and 
has  many  points  of  interest  to  see  well  worth  visiting. 
The  Van  Ness  is  the  leading  hotel  and  has  just  been 
newly  fitted  up,  and  is  a  thoroughly  equipped  and  well 
managed  house.  Such  is  Burlington. 
Come  and  see  for  yourself. 

BLUFF  POINT, 

one  hundred  and  sixty-four  miles  from  Albany,  a'nd 
fifty-three  miles  from  Montreal,  is  the  most  sightly 
point  on  Lake  Champlain.  The  new  and  elegant  Hotel 
Champlain,  with  its  spacious  grounds,  unrivaled  views 
and  superb  appointments,  is  situated  on  this  command- 
ing promontory.  The  bluff  is  about  two  hundred  feet 
above  the  lake,  and  the  view  from  the  hotel  includes 
about  fifty  miles  of  the  lake  and  the  Green  and  Adiron- 
dack Mountain  Ranges.  There  are  363  acres  in  the  hotel 
grounds,  mostly  wooded,  which  have  been  laid  out  in 
walks  and  drives.  The  hotel  is  400  feet  long,  having 
an  average  width  of  about  fifty  feet,  and  a  central  width 
of  about  ninety  feet.  This  immense  and  costly  structure 
is  surmounted  by  three  towers,  one  at  each  end,  and  a 
central  tower  125  feet  high. 

It  is  intended  that  the  "  Champlain  "  shall  be  the 
model  summer  hotel  of  its  kind.  The  house  and  its 
furnishings  are  of  the  highest  class,  and  every  conven- 


<".. 


t^ 


v^ 


vc^ 


155 

ience  that  can  conduce  to  the  pleasure  and  comfort  of 
its  guests  has  been  provided.  Such  has  been  the  rapid 
growth  in  popularity  of  Lake  Champlain  that  the  open- 
ing of  this  fine  home  for  summer  pleasure  seekers  sig- 
nalizes an  era  of  interest  in  this  incomparable  region 
that  has  placed  its  shores  in  the  front  rank  of  summer 
resorts.  Trains  on  D.  &  H.  Co.  R.  R.  leave  Montreal 
every  morning  and  afternoon,  when  passengers,  who 
have  tickets  by  that  line  can  stop  over  at  Bluff  Point 
Station,  and  visit  the  grandest  and  best  of  all  the 
Northern  Adirondack  Hotels,  just  opened  this  season, 
Hotel  Champlain,  and  resume  their  journey  when 
desired. 

Leaving  Montreal  in  the  morning,  by  taking  the  first 
train  on  the  Delifware  &  Hudson  Canal  Railroad,  if  you 
wish  to  make  Hotel  Champlain,  Lake  George,  Saratoga 
or  Albany  the  same  day,  your  tickets  my  read  Lake 
Champlain  Co.  Steamers,  but  it  is  all  the  same — boat 
and  rail  belong  to  the  same  parties.  Should  you  desire 
to  take  Lake  Champlain,  leave  Montreal  in  the  after- 
noon and  go  to  Bluff  Point  or  Au  Sable  Chasm,  via  Port 
Kent,  remain  over  night  at  Lake  View  House,  taking 
the  boat  at  8  a.  m.,  from  t^^ere  to  Fort  Ticonderoga, 
and  then  down  Lake  George,  or  proceed  on  the  train  in 
the  morning  or  by  boat.  By  getting  off  at  Port  Kent, 
changing  cars  to  the  Keesville,  Au  Sable  Chasm  &  Lake 
Champlain  Railroad,  you  will  soon  arrive  at  Au  Sable 
Chasm  Station.  The  busses  in  waiting  will  convey  you 
to  the  Lake  View  House,  where  "mine  host,"  W.  H. 
Tracey,  will  see  that  all  your  wants  and  desires  are  sat- 
isfied. I  had  the  pleasure  of  passing  over  the  above 
railroad  in  June  last,  and  must  confess  it  quite  a  novel 
ride,  with  very  picturesque  scenery.     I  am  the  heaviest 


156 

Director  of  this  road,  weigh  three  hundred  and  thirty 
pounds — direct  hundreds  of  passengers  every  year  to 
pass  over  it.  Hope  the  General  Passenger  Agent,  A 
VV.  Boynton,  will  note  this,  so  I  will  not  be  obliged 
count  the  ties  next  September  when  I  return  to  visit  A  i 
Sable  Chasm.  Therefore,  it  may  be  said  if  you  desire 
to  make  both  lakes  on  the  same  day,  you  are  compelled 
to  leave  Montreal  in  the  afternoon,  and  go  to  Au  Sable 
Chasm  via  Port  Kent,  and  remain  over  night  at  the 
Lake  View  Hotel,  which  will  be  found  to  be  an  excel- 
lent house,  taking  the  boat  in  the  morning.  If  tickets 
read  by  the  Central  Vermont  Railway,  you  go  to  Bur- 
lington, where  you  arrive  for  supper,  and  as  the  boat 
does  not  leave  until  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning,  you 
have  plenty  of  time  to  see  that  beautiful  city  before  the 
leaving  of  the  boat  ;  at  any  rate  you  won't  have  to  rise 
as  early  as  you  would  if  you  were  at  Plattsburg. 

MV  FIRST  VISIT  TO  AU  SABLE  CHASM. 

As  long  as  anything  shall  remain  green  in  my  mem- 
ory, I  feel  confident  it  will  be  the  impression  of  that 
charming  view  and  grand  natural  spectacle,  Au  Sable 
Chasm. 

Arising  early  in  the  morning  if  not  with  the  lark,  a 
very  good  second  in  the  race,  I  was  invited  by  the  man- 
ager of  the  Lake  View  House  to  visit  the  chasm; 
Accepting  the  same,  we  proceeded  through  the  gate 
and  down  the  steps  which  I  did  not  stop  to  count  ; 
but  the  number  was  sufficient  for  a  man  of  my  weight, 
and  as  large  bodies  move  slowly,  I  was  behind  the  rest 
of  our  gay,  hilarious  party,  because  I  remained 
to  drink  in  the  beauties  my  eyes  were  feasting  upon. 
Reaching  the  end  of  the  chasm,   where   we  take  the 


.  I 


V 


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M 


r'^ 


157 


Vr., 


boat  for  the  rapids,  I  did  not  have  confidence  to  pro- 
ceed the  rest  of  the  journey  with  my  companions  (as 
I  felt  I  was  too  large  a  crowd  for  the  boat),  but, 
returning,  as  I  came,  which  very  few  people  do,  I  was 

VA  more  impressed  by  the  grandeur  of  the  scenery — more 
than  going  down.  Returning  to  the  hotel  some  hours 
after  my  party,  I  had  stories  to  tell  that  caused  many  of 
•  them  to  return  and  make  the  trip  that  I  had.  If  there 
is  any  view  on  earth  that  will  please  you  it  is  the  one 
obtained  from  any  point  at  the  lake  view  House,  Au 
Sable  Chasm,  looking  at  Lake  Cnamplain  and  the  Green 
Mountains  of  Vermont  on  one  side,  and  the  Chasm  or 
Adirondacks  on  the  other. 

Before  the  completion  of  the  railroad,  boats  left 
Rouse's  Point,  on  Lake  Champlain,  and  a  train  left 
Montreal  to  connect  ;  but  as  the  route  on  Lake  Cham- 
plain  has  been  discontinued  from  Rouse's  Point  to 
Plattsburg,  really  the  most  picturesque  part  of  the  trip 
j^  down  Lake  Champlain  being  cut  off,  most  of  the 
tourists  take  the  rail  in  the  morning  from  Montreal  and 
can  pass  through  Lake  Champlain  by  rail,  or  stop  over, 
if  but  a  short  time,  at  Bluff  Point  station  on  D.  &  H. 
Co.  R.  R.,  and  visit  the  grand  **  Hotel  Champlain " 
where  all  the  steamers  on  the  lake  land  and  receive 
passengers  every  regular  trip.  The  rail  passing  close 
along  the  lake  shore,  one  gets  a  very  nice  view,  better, 
as  I  have  oi  en  expressed  it,  than  if  the  parties  were  on 
the  boat,  as  they  cannot  see  both  shores  on  a  boat  at 
once,  unles  the  tourist's  eyes  were  cut  out  on  a  bias  or 
cross,  thus  enabling  them  to  see  both  sides  at  once.  The 
rail  is  preferable  and  saves  time.     As  it  is  immaterial  to 

y>Jf/       me  how  you  reach  Ticonderoga,  it  is  presumed  you  get 
there.     Lake  George  Junction  is  where  you  change  cars. 


E 


158 

and  connect  for  Baldwin,  which  's  a  ride  of  about 
fifteen  minutes.  You  are  now  supposed  to  have  arrived 
on  board  the  company's  steamers,  "  Horicon "  or 
"  Ticonderoga,"  and  are  sailing  up  Lake  George.  Now, 
if  the  reader  expects  me  to  describe  Lake  St.  George,  I 
shall  simply  say  No  !  with  a  large  N.  It  is  too  much  ; 
its  praises  have  been  written  and  sung  for  the  past  half 
century  by  thousands.  I  shall  with  pleasure  and  relief 
to  myself,  ask  the  loan  of  your  scissors.  Thanks  ;  now 
we  can  comply  with  your  wishes  :  We  have  started  on 
our  trip  through  the  magical  lake.  It  is  difficult  to 
describe  the  quiet  delight  one  feels  as  he  gazes  on  the 
expanse  of  the  tranquil  azure  spread  before  him  like  a 
part  of  the  sky  inlaid  on  the  emerald  bosom  of  the 
earth.  Peace  is  in  the  very  air  which*lazily  slumber^ 
over  the  water,  while  the  monotone  of  the  silvery  rip- 
ples rolling  over  the  yellow  sands,  and  the  musical 
moan  of  the  breeze  in  the  cone-cented  pines,  seem  to 
carry  the  soul  back  to  other  days.  Lake  George  is, 
indeed,  like  a  work  of  art  of  the  highest  order,  for  it  has 
the  quality  of  improving,  the  more  one  studies  its 
attractions,  and  the  ever  harmonious  flow  of  lines  con- 
stantly suggests  a  composition  of  consummate  genius  in 
which  every  effect  has  been  combined  to  produce  a  cer- 
tain ideal. 

Now,  dear  reader,  I  have  a  favor  to  ask  of  you  ;  read 
this  little  book  as  far  as  Saratoga  description  com- 
mences ;  then  lay  it  aside  and  feast  the  eyes  on  Lake 
George  for  the  next  two  hours,  and,  if  you  can  describe 
its  beauties,  do  so  to  the  best  of  your  ability,  and 
forward  to  me,  21  Chestnut  Park,  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  and 
it  shall  have  a  place  in  this  work,  and  you  shall  have 
the  credit  for  the  same  ; — the  task  was  too  much  for  me. 


x^ 


'V/l?^ 


159 


■rp:^ 


CAMPING  OUT. 

The  lake  is  a  famous  camping  ground,  during  July 
and  August,  and  its  enjoyments,  with  bits  of  sound 
advice,  cannot  be  better  given  than  by  the  following, 
unless  you  purchase  one  of  the  favorite  Guides  to  Lake 
George,  Lake  Champlain  and  the  Adirondacks — full  of 
information,  maps  and  illustrations,  published  at  Glen 
Falls,  N.  Y.,  and  for  sale  on  all  steamers  and  news 
stands. 

'*  The  lovely  islands  are  suddenly  astir  with  busy 
throngs.  Rocks  are  decked  with  blue  and  gray>  the 
tree-tops  blush  with  buntings  ;  shores  put  on  a  flannelly 
hue,  and  shadowy  points  blossom  out  in  duck  and  dimity. 
It  is  safe  to  say  that  in  the  course  of  the  season  a  thou- 
sand people  taste  the  pleasures  and  overcome  the  diffi- 
culties that  but  season  the  glorious  dish  of  camp  life  at 
Lake  George.  Among  the  necessaries  are  a  light  axe, 
long  handle  frying-pan,  tin  pail  for  water  or  coffee,  tin 
plate,  tin  cup,  knife  and  fork,  and  fishing  tackle.  A 
stove  top  laid  on  a  fire-place  of  stones  and  mud,  and 
supplied  with  one  length  of  stove-pipe,  is  a  positive 
luxury  to  the  cook.  Spruce  boughs  for  a  bed,  with  two 
or  three  good  woolen  blankets  for  covering,  will  be 
found  very  comfortable  ;  a  small  bag  to  fill  with  leaves 
or  moss  for  a  pillow  pays  for  itself  in  one  night.  Flan- 
nel or  woolen  clothing,  with  roomy  boots  and  a  soft  felt 
hat,  is  ordinarily  the  safest  dress.  Ladies,  wear  what 
you  have  a  mind  to,  you  will,  anyway — but  let  it  be 
flannel  next  to  you,  good  strong  shoes  under  foot,  and 
a  man's  felt  hat  overhead  ;  take  the  man  along,  too — he 
will  be  useful  to  take  the  fish  off  your  hook,  run  errands, 
etc. 


i6o 

"  Boats  and  provisions  may  be  obtained  at  almost 
any  of  the  hotels.  Bacon,  salt  pork,  bread  and  butter, 
Boston  crackers,  tea,  coffee,  sugar,  pepper  and  salt,  with 
a  tin  box  or  two  for  containing  the  same,  are  among  the 
things  needed.  Milk  can  be  obtained  regularly  at  the 
farm  houses,  and  berries  picked  almost  anywhere.  Ice 
is  a  luxury  which  may  be  contracted  for  and  thrown 
from  the  passing  steamers  daily  ;  a  hole  in  the  ground 
with  a  piece  of  bark  over  it  forms  a  very  good  ice-box. 
A  drinking  cup  of  leather,  to  carry  in  the  pocket 
comes  handy  at  times.  Broad-brimmed  straw  hats  are 
a  nuisance.  A  shanty  of  boughs  will  answer  in  absence 
of  anything  better  ;  it  sounds  well  when  you  talk  about 
*  roughing  it,'  but  is  bad  in  practice.  A  tent  is  best 
and  may  be  made  very  comfortable  with  a  little  outlay 
of  money  and  labor." 

THE  ADIRONDACKS. 

The  great  wilderness  of  northeastern  New  York,  the 
limits  of  which  we  will  not  try  to  define,  is  generally 
known  as  the  North  Woods,  or  as  the  Adirondacks, 
according  to  the  view  taken  of  its  surface.  The  former 
title  indicates  merely  a  wild,  densely  wooded  region  ; 
the  latter,  a  region  occupied  by  all  the  varied  scenery 
pertaining  to  a  most  remarkable  lake  and  mountain 
system.  This  wild  region  of  dense  forest,  majestic 
mountains,  magnificent  lakes  and  beautiful  rivers,  lies 
in  the  counties  of  Herkimer,  Hamilton,  Lewis,  St. 
Lawrence,  Clinton,  Franklin  and  E'ssex,  and  aggregates 
over  3,500,000  acres,  a  tract  of  land  of  an  area  of  nearly 
100  square  miles.  This  region  is  the  only  primitive 
hunting  and  fishing  grounds  left  in  New  York  State, 
and  offering,  as  it  does,   rare   health-restoring  qualities 


■i*^ 


^W 


V 


i6i 

combined  with  excel '-^nt  deer  hunting,  and  the  best  of 
brook  and  lake  trout  fishing  accessible,  is  yearly  more 
than  doubling  its  number  of  visitors — in  fact,  the  limit 
is  only  measured  by  hotel  capacity.  It  is  not  our  pur- 
pose, nor  would  it  be  possible  in  so  small  a  work  as 
this,  to  go  into  details  as  to  the  wilderness,  but  guide 
books  are  easily  obtained,  and  The  Delaware  &  Hudson 
R.  R.,  issues  a  large  amount  of  information  upon  the 
subject,  which  is  easily  obtainable  from  their  General 
Passenger  Agent,  J.  W.  Burdick,  Albany  N,  Y. 


VlW 


'^Jk 


MY  TRIP   OVER    THE    GRAVITY    RAIL- 
ROAD. 

In  1876,  the  centennial  yea/,  this  country  was  visited 
by  scores,  yes,  hundreds,  of  foreign  visitors  who  came 
to  our  shores  in  quest  of  sights.  Up  to  this  time  the 
company  owning  and  working  the  Gravity  railroad 
persistently  refused  any  one  transportation  over  it.  No 
matter  how  much  they  pleaded  or  petitioned  there  was 
not  anything  they  could  do  to  move  the  heart  of  that 
corporation.  At  last  light  came  through  the  darkness  ; 
a  female  lawyer  conceived  the  idea  that  way  back  in 
18 13,  when  the  road  was  first  built,  the  right  of  way 
was  given  as  a  public  highway,  and  so  she  demanded 
transportation  or  they  must  abide  the  consequences. 

I  have  been  a  great  traveler  in  my  day  and  have  seen 
almost  everything  on  this  continent  that  is  worth  see- 
ing. I  was  annoyed  more  by  people  asking  questions 
about  the  Gravity  railroad  than  as  to  any  other  spot  in 
the  country,  so  to  the  end  that  I  might  be  in  a  better 
position  to  talk  of  it,  I  concluded  to  make  the  trip  and 
see  its  beauties.     Knowing  that  misery  loves  company, 


-Mmbmttmf 


■M»nafc»ni.Maijiij  imiVif 


r.3raW!mi3iL'55C3KE-5eiJU»\i*li^  '^r.t,  JL. . 


162 


I  determined  to  take  my  daughter  along,  to  the  end  that 
she  could  have  the  misery  while  I  would  be  in  good 
company. 

We  left  Albany,  N.  Y.,  on  Wednesday  morring  at 
8.30  o'clock,  over  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal 
Company's  railroad.  Station  after  station  was  passed  ; 
our  eyes  feasting  upon  the  beauties  of  the  mountain, 
valley,  river,  hillside  and  plain,  but  we  had  left  that 
most  beautiful  of  all  pictures.  Lake  George,  so  could 
not  drink  in  the  ever  changing  scenes  as  we  otherwise 
would.  We  were  almost  in  dream  land  when  a  party  of 
hop  pickers  boarded  the  train  ;  a  happier,  jollier,  good 
natured  crowd  of  country  girls  and  boys  we  never  saw 
before.  The  usual  violin,  guitar,  bones  and  mouth  organ 
accompanied  them,  and  while  they  were  with  us,  which 
was  for  over  an  hour,  they  kept  up  a  continual  revelry. 

In  the  beautiful  agricultural  districts  through  \vhich 
we  passed,  the  corn  fields  were  almost  a  bright  yellow 
with  the  thousands  of  pumpkir.i  that  almost  hid  the 
earth  from  view.  Our  thoughts  v^trst  ba  k  to  the  day^^ 
when  we  were  boys  and  made  hideo^  .s  jack  lanterns  to 
frighten  nervous  females  and  timid  boys.  One  passen- 
ger remarked  to  another,  "  Is  the  pumpkin  a  berry  or  a 
fruit  ?  "  After  a  little  discussion  it  was  left  to  me,  and 
I  decided  that  it  made  berry  good  pie  to  say  the  least. 

Can't  say  what  struck  the  train  ;  the  effect  of  that 
joke,  probably,  was  the  cause  of  the  train  coming  to  a 
standstill  and  suddenly  the  brakeman  called  out 
'  Nineveh  Junction,  change  cars,"  which  we  did,  and 
v.-ere  <>oon  on  our  way  to  Carbondale,  running  under 
that  i^reatest  of  stone  viaducts,  over  which  passes  the 
Ere  Jb.ailioad,  and  cam*-  to  numerous  coal  pits,  coal 
s-^a'*  3  art!  coal  towns,  and  soon  that  long-looked-for 


r< 


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end  that 
in  good 

rring   at 
n  Canal 
passed  ; 
ountain, 
eft   that 
)   could 
herwise 
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ver  saw 
li  organ 
:,  which 
•evelry. 
t  \>hich 
yellow 
lid  the 
e  day."v 
srns  to 
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y  or  a 
e,  and 
least. 
F  that 
§:  to  a 
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,  and 
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s  the 
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^V 


.^. 


1  £i'.' 


163 

announcement  by  the  trainman  breaks  upon  our  ear- 
drum, "  Carbondale,  change  for  the  Gravity  Railroad. 
This  we  did  very  quickly,  and  found  we  were  noticed 
by  a  fine  looking  old  gentleman  we  discovered  to  be 
the  Superintendent,  Mr.  R.  Manville.  After  looking  us 
over  for  size,  style  and  general  appearance,  he  took  us 
for  some  one  of  note,  which  we  were,  and  ordered  out 
an  elegant  new  coach  for  our  sole  use,  as  there  was  not 
room  in  the  regular,  rhis  was  one  occasion  in  my  life 
that  my  weight  and  size  helped  me  to  gain  a  pre  ninent 
position. 

"  All  aboard,"  was  the  next  sound  I  heard  and  looked 
around  to  see  if  I  was  all  there,  and  we  started  Our 
coach  being  in  front,  we  acted  as  engine,  and  soon 
rounded  at  the  first  incline.  Up  to  this  time  no  pro- 
pelling power  was  used,  simply  our  weight  and  the 
gravity  of  the  roadbed.  Now  we  were  attached  to  a 
cable  and  taken  at  the  rate  of  ten  or  fifteen  miles  an 
hour  up  an  incline  ;  then  a  little  way  of  our  own  gravity, 
we  came  to  another  incline,  and  so  on  to  incline  after 
incline,  until  we  arrived  at  Far  View,  the  top  of  a  moun- 
tain 2,350  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  From  "^hat 
point  we  struck  at  what  is  called  the  ten  mile  lev  but 
it  has  forty  feet  fall  to  the  mile.  And  here  w<  ^lide 
without  any  apparent  power  thirty  or  forty  m  ^s  per 
hour ;  without  the  annoyance  of  the  engine,  ^  ith  its 
whistle,  dust,  smoke,  and  cinders,  and  soelatec'  th  our 
ride  that  we  deem  heavon  but  a  little  way  off ;  uhis  huge 
body  of  mine  was  for  a  moment  ethereal,  imagining  that 
I  had  been  flying  instead  of  the  train. 

Looking  a  little  ahead  I  saw  the  village  of  Honesdale 
in  the  distance  and  a  most  magnificent  hotel  located  on 
the  top  of  a  mountain  or  bluff  in  the  rear  of  the  .  Uage, 


1 64 


and  almost  as  quick  as  thought  we  arrived.  Alighting 
from  the  car  we  were  met  by  Mr.  H.  J.  Conger,  who 
took  us  in  charge  and  escorted  us  to  the  Allen  House. 
After  a  little  preparation  supper  was  announced,  and  if 
ever  that  word  was  appreciated  it  was  on  that  occasion 
by  myself  as  well  as  my  daughter.  After  doing  ample 
justice  to  that  ever  memorable  meal,  I  was  invited  by 
Mr.  Conger,  and  a  lady  guest  at  the  hotel  invited  my 
daughter,  to  take  a  walk,  as  they  desired  to  show  us  the 
village.  It  was  on  a  Wednesday  evening  and  all  the 
different  churches  were  sending  forth  their  peal  of  the 
bell  for  the  assembling  together  of  the  different  congre- 
gations. Mr.  Conger  and  myself  were  in  deep  conversa- 
tion and  did  not  notice  we  were  holding  the  crowd 
behind  us  at  bay  by  our  slow  martial  tread.  Presently 
I  heard  a  remark  coming  from  a  lady  directly  behind  us 
to  this  effect :  "  Who  is  that  large,  fleshy  gentleman  with 
Mr.  Conger?"  "I  don't  know,  he  must  be  a  stranger 
in  town."  "Oh,  I  am  sorry,  I  wish  he  lived  here." 
"Why?"  "  If  he  did  I  would  form  his  acquaintance 
very  quickly  and  Invite  him  up  to  the  house  every 
evening,  six  times  a  week."  "What  for?"  "So  he 
could  sit  down  on  our  Bible  and  press  our  autumn 
leaves." 

At  this  juncture  we  smiled  and  turned  the  corner, 
and  proceeded  up  as  far  as  the  river  bridge,  then  join- 
ing the  ladies  we  passed  through  the  principal  business 
streets  and  returned  to  the  hotel,  after  an  hour  and  a 
half's  walk.  We  parted  with  Mr.  Conger,  after  spend- 
ing a  very  pleasant  hour  in  the  parlor  of  the  hotel  with 
some  of  the  guests,  when  our  watch  denoted  the  hour 
of  bedtime  had  arrived.  We  retired  *  *  •  awoke 
if  not  with  the  lark,  we  "  got  there  just  the  same,"  and 


il 


\:>'~ 


i65 


about  seven  o'clock  went  to  the  depot  to  take  the  car, 
where  we  were  introduced  to  Mr.  William  Muir,  the 
superintendent  of  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  Com- 
pany at  this  point,  who  very  kindly  showed  us  the  man- 

kl         ner  in  which  the  cars  were  loaded  with  coal ;  also  the 

*        different  screens  used  in  selecting  the  different  sizes  of 

coal  and  the  manner  in  which  that  commodity  is  placed 

on  canal  boats.     We  also  saw  the  working  of  the  steam 

_^shovel  in  loading  from  huge  mountains  of  coal. 

At  the  time  appointed  we  took  our  special  car  and 
proceeded  to  return  to  Carbondale.  The  distance  from 
Carbondale  to  Honesdale  is  16  miles,  from  Honesdale 
to  Carbondale  is  20  miles.  Entering  our  car  we  arrive 
at  the  first  incline,  and  were  soon  at  that  part  of  the 
road  called  Horseshoe  Bend.  This  gorge  Uc  ^'  formerly 
spanned  by  a  bridge  175  feet  high.  By  gravity  we  pass 
around  a  curve.  The  sight  of  the  autumn  foliage  is 
grand,  and  the  beautiful  little  village  of  Seelyville  in  the 
'  distance.     We  arrive  at  incline  number  fourteen  ;  there 

•  '  are  twenty  eight  of  these  inclines  in  all.  The  sight  of 
the  track  below,  one  hundred  cars  loaded  with  coal,  tak- 
ing their  serpentine  windings  around  the  various  curves, 
run  by  an  invisible  power,  is  a  sight  once  seen,  never 
forgotten.  Prompton  Pass  is  the  next  place  of  note  and 
we  arrive  at  incline  number  sixteen,  the  engineer  of 
which  has  made  a  beautiful  flower  garden  amid  rocks 
and  coal  which  is  very  delightful  to  the  eye.  The  large 
pond  and  station  next  in  order  is  the  feeder  of  the 
Delaware  and  Hudson  canal.  Waymart  is  the  next  sta- 
tion where  trains  are  loaded,  fifty  cars  each  ;  this  place 
is  1,450  feet  above  tide  water.     Next  is  incline  number 

\pi.~       nineteen,  over  a  half  a  mile  in  length,  on  the  top  of 
which  is  Far  View,  where  we  were  met  by  Mr.  R.  Man- 


i66 


ville,  who  invited  us  co  take  a  ride  in  his  democrat 
wagon  with  two  spirited  horses  attached.  Had  the 
wagon  been  any  smaller  or  the  horses  any  less,  we 
would  not  have  had  the  pleasure  of  taking  in  Far  View. 
After  they  had  procured  a  derrick  and  some  steps  I  was 
gently  raised  into  the  seat  in  the  vehicle  and  we  pro- 
r-^'^ded  on  our  tour  of  inspection.  Everything  that  can 
be  done,  until  the  ingenuity  of  man  is  taxed  to  its 
utmost  capacity  for  the  pleasure  and  accommodation  of 
visitors,  has  been  done  by  the  company.  Hundreds  of 
seats,  chairs  and  benches  are  arranged  everywhere. 

Observatories,  where  you  can  ascend  150  feet  to 
enhance  your  view  ;  grounds  for  base  ball,  croquet, 
lawn  tennis  ;  in  fact,  everything  to  make  it  pleasant  for 
picnic  excursions  or  tourist  travel  has  been  done.  We 
proceeded  to  the  highest  observatory,  which  we  found 
was  a  little  too  high  for  our  observation  on  account  df 
a  dense  fog,  so  that  we  had  to  feast  ou,r  eyes  from  below. 
The  observatory  is  twenty-six  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  and  from  its  summit  may  be  seen  nine- 
teen small  lakes  or  bodies  of  water,  springs  as  it  were, 
upon  the  top  of  the  mountain.  From  one  the  company 
use  twenty-six  thousand  gallons  of  water  daily.  A  mag- 
nificent view  of  the  Adirondacksof  New  York,  the  White 
Mountains  of  New  Hampshire  and  Green  Mountains  of 
Vermont,  can  be  had  on  a  clear  day.  There  is  some  talk 
of  building  a  hotel  here  for  tourists,  of  which,  when 
completed,  I  want  to  be  one  of  the  first  guests.  The  time 
having  arrived  to  depart,  we  were  invited  to  inspect  the 
huge  engine,  boilers  and  fan  wheel,  used  to  convey  cars 
up  and  down  the  incline,  and  we  should  advise  visitors 
to  take  in  the  Engineers'  art  gallery,  which  is  really  a 
curiosity.     Our  car  being  attached  to  the   regular   train 


v.. 


i67 


%■ 


ft 


we  proceeded  on  our  way  to  Carbondale,  which  is  twelve 
miles.  Again  on  our  way  three  miles  and  a  half  we  are 
at  the  Shepherd's  Crook,  The  engineer,  conductor  and 
brakeman  are  in  one  person,  occupying  the  front 
platform.  He  put  on  the  brake  and  our  car  stood  still 
and  we  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  the  regular  train 
ahead  pass  around  the  Shepherd's  Crook,  After 
witnessing  that  novel  sight,  Mr.  Manville  told  his  brake- 
man  to  catch  the  regular  train,  which  seemed  to  us  about 
three  miles  ahead.  All  he  had  to  do  was  simply  to  let 
up  on  his  brake,  and  it  seems  as  if  we  were  there,  for 
while  I  was  taking  in  the  scenes  which  greeted  my  eye 
we  had  joined  the  regular  train,  and  I  asked  him  how 
long  before  we  would  catch  up  to  it,  and  I  was  informed 
we  were  already  coupled  on  ;  "  for,"  said  he,  "  the  cows 
for  the  whole  village  of  Carbondale  pasture  upon  this 
hillside,  and  we  have  them  educated  for  all  the  regular 
trains  but  not  for  specials,  and  for  that  reason  I  didn't 
care  to  run  over  any  of  the  cattle  and  be  accessory  after 
the  fact  of  their  demise,  so  we  coupled  on  to  save 
trouble  and  expense."  Looking  out  I  saw  a  woman  in 
charge  of  about  eight  or  ten  cows,  and  truthfully  she 
was  the  homeliest  person  I  ever  saw,  I  asked  him  if 
they  had  female  herderess  here,  and  he  remarked 
"yes."  I  then  said  they  must  use  that  one's  face  to 
wean  the  calves  by. 

"Carbondale,  change  cars." 

After  bidding  everybody  good-bye  we  took  our  seat 
in  the  D.  &  H,  Company's  regular  train  for  Albany, 
arriving  at  five  o'clock  and  thirty  minutes  in  the  after- 
noon. 


1 68 


LAKE  GEORGE. 

Every  American,  or  tourist,  should  see  it  at  least 
once.  It  is  the  largest  of  the  Adirondack  chain,  346 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  247  above  Champlain,  thirty- 
five  miles  long  and  from  two  to  four  in  width,  and  fed 
from  mountain  brooks  and  springs  coming  up  from  the 
bottom,  making  it  trails ^.arent.  It  is  beautifully  dotted 
with  over  200  islands,  and  surrounded  by  high  moun- 
tains, some  rising  2,000  feet  above  the  water,  clothed 
with  foliage  and  dotted  with  villas  and  picturesque 
camps  ;  one  feels  like  leaving  the  boat  and  remaining  in 
this  bower  of  enchantment.  The  steamers  touch  at  all 
points  of  note,  and  arrive  at  the  Sagamore  Hotel,  where 
you  can,  if  you  desire,  remain  over. 

THE    SAGAMORE 

stands  among  the  trees  at  the  south  end  of  the  Green 
Island,  40  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Lake,  commanding 
from  its  upper  windows  the  grand  scenery  of  the 
Narrows  on  the  east,  the  broad  lake  and  bays  at  the 
south  and  west,  and  the  mountains  on  every  side. 

The  buildings  comprising  the  Sagamore  are  of 
uncertain  number,  of  varying  levels,  and  picturesque  in 
their  grouping.  The  style  is  that  popularly  supposed 
to  belong  to  the  sixteenth  centur}-, — rising  one  back  of 
another,  with  short  flights  of  steps  between,  connected 
by  open  corridors  with  charming  outlooks  ;  its  varied 
porticos,  balconies  and  gables  admirably  displayed  in 
colors  that  harmonize  richly  with  their  native  surround- 
ings. 

Its  interior  finish  is  plain,  but  rich  and  substantial, 
showing  massive  beams,  fireplaces  of  artistic  designs  in 
terra  cotta,  tinted  walls  and  joiner  work  in  native  wood. 


■,>■ 


V 


y 


i6() 


it   least 
in,   346 
thirty- 
nd   fed 
rom  the 
dotted 
moun- 
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,  where 


Green 
anding 
of  the 
at  the 

are  of 
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pposed 
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round- 

antial, 
gns  in 
wood. 


V 


/ 


The  furnishing  is  all  that  can  be  desired  ;  chairs  and 
sofas,  multiform  and  inviting,  of  different  woods,  pol- 
ished and  of  willow  ware  ;  the  upholstery  bright  and 
cheerful  ;  the  beds  'of  the  best  kind  procurable  ;  in 
short,  no  effort  has  been  spared  nor  cost  considered  in 
making  this  the  ideal  hotel. 

The  main  hall  and  office,  and  the  principal  parlor 
and  reading  and  smoking  rooms  are  on  the  main  floor, 
looking  out  upon  a  semi-circular  lawn,  with  flower  bor- 
dered walks,  leading  down  to  the  steamboat  landing, 
and  revealing  between  its  stately  trees  delightful  vistas 
of  lake  and  islands  beyond. 

In  the  office  are  electric  bells,  with  a  system  of  wires 
running  to  the  various  rooms,  placing  them  in  imme- 
diate communication  with  base  of  supplies. 

Telegraphic  connection  is  made  with  the  Western 
Union  system  at  Caldwell  by  special  wire  in  the  office. 

The  news  and  notion  stand  supplies  daily  papers, 
periodicals,  guides,  maps,  photographs,  fine  candles  and 
fancy  goods. 

An  elevator  is  here  for  the  service  of  such  as  may 
prefer  it  to  the  short  flight  of  steps  by  which  the  upper 
floors  are  reached. 

The  Edison  incandescent  Light  is  used  throughout 
the  entire  establishment. 

Spring  water  is  brought  from  the  mountains  two  miles 
away  and  500  feet  above  the  lake,  and  carried  to  every 
floor,  where  hose  and  pipe  attachment  affords  the  best 
of  protection  against  possible  danger  from  fire. 

The  sleeping  rooms  are  spacious — many  of  them  en 
suite,  with  private  balconies  and  outside  as  well  as  hall 
entrances. 

The  sanitary  conditions  are  perfect,  made  so  by  the 


V!, 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


1.1 


1.25 


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1.4    11.6 


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Sciences 

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23  WBT  MAIN  STRir 

WIBSTIR.N.Y.  14SM 

(716)  •71-4503 


;\ 


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170 

employment  of  the  most  approved  methods  of  drain- 
age, for  the  application  of  which  the  location  is  admi- 
rably adapted. 

Baths,  hot  and  cold,  may  be  had  at  the  hotel  and 
bath-houses  outside  ;  while  those  who  like  open  air  and 
water  for  the  sport,  will  find  retired  places  and  sandy 
beach  near  by. 

Amusements  :  billiards  and  bowling  within,  and  cro- 
quet, tennis,  polo  and  archery  without. 

Riding  and  driving  are  provided  for  in  the  extensive 
stables  on  the  island,  and  accommodations  for  those 
who  may  bring  their  own  equipage.  The  drives  are 
many  and  delightful. 

Fishing,  rowing,  sailing  or  "  steaming  "  are  all  niade 
attractive  by  respectful  attendants,  and  a  fleet  of  boats 
ranging  from  the  tiny  skiff  to  the  comfortable  steam 
yacht.  ^ 

A  large  hall  for  music  and  social  gatherings  has  been 
built,  connected  with  the  main  building  at  its  highest 
point.  Two  new  cottages  also,  and  twenty-six  new  and 
desirable  sleeping  rooms  have  been  added. 

The  line  steamers  land  on  every  regular  trip  through 
the  lake,  connecting  with  the  trains  at  each  end,  and  run 
from  Caldwell  to  the  Sagamore  dock  on  the  arrival  of 
the  evening  train  from  the  south. 

The  proprietor,  Mr.  M.  O.  Brown,  long  and  popularly 
known  as  a  hotel  man  on  the  lake,  will  spare  no  pains  to 
make  your  sojourn  attractive  in  all  respects. 

The  cuisine  is  perfect.  The  Chef  and  assistants  are 
from  the  leading  New  York  hotels.  The  head  waiter, 
with  his  excellent  and  full  corps  of  carefully  trained 
and  experienced  waiters,  the  best  that  could  be 
obtained. 


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171 

As  I  have  cheerfully  recommended  tourists  for  the 
last  seven  years  to  make  a  short  stay  at  least  at  this 
delightful  resort,  the  Sagamore  (it  is  as  near  Heaven 
as  many  mortals  will  reach),  get  within  its  portals,  if 
but  for  a  short  time,  that  you  may  realize  its  beauties, 
then  you  can  thank  me  for  the  suggestion,  as  many 
others  have,  and  I  will  be  well  repaid.  Connections  are, 
however,  aiianged  for,  and  you  can  if  you  wish,  leave 
immediately  for  Caldwell. 

FACILITIES  FOR  LAKE  TRAVEL. 

The  Champlain  Transportation  Company  run  a 
regular  line  of  steamboats  the  entire  length  of  the  lake, 
making  three  round  trips  daily  (except  Sunday),  and 
stopping  at  all  way  landings.  The  "  Horicon  "  of  this 
line,  making  the  regular  cor  sections  with  the  railroad, 
is  a  fine  side- wheel  steamer  203  feet  long  and  52 
feet  wide  over  all,  and  is  643  tons  burden,  and  will 
accommodate  comfortably  1,000  people.  I  can  truth- 
fully say  that  upon  no  inland  lake  in  the  world  is  the 
passenger  service  so  promptly  and  regularly  done,  and 
passengers  so  elegantly  cared  for  as  upon  Lake  George. 

Caldwell  is  the  railroad  terminus,  and  is  the  largest 
town  on  the  lake.  It  is  situated  at  the  extreme 
southern  end,  or  head  of  the  lake  (the  waters  flowing 
north  and  emptying  into  Lake  Champlain,  immediately 
at  the  ruins  of  old  Fort  Ticonderoga).  At  Caldwell  is 
located  the  hrndsome  dock  and  station  building  of  the 
railroad  company,  whose  trains  run  down  the  dock 
immediately  to  the  steamers — one  of  which  leaves 
upon  the  arrival  of  each  train,  for  all  points  down  the 
lake.    The  railroad   was    extended    to    this  point  in 


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172 

1883,  thus  saving  at  least  one  hour  of  time,  and  better 
facilities  for  the  accommodation  of  tourists  and  pleasure 
travel.  The  Adirondack  R.  R.  has  been  purchased  by 
the  D.  &  H.  Co.,  and  hereafter  will  be  known  as  the 
Adirondack  Division  of  the  D.  &  H.  system. 

SARATOGA  SPRINGS, 

the  focus  to  which  the  fashionable  world  of  the  United 
States,  indeed,  of  Europe,  is  annually  drawn.  Here  are 
intellectual  men,  stylish  men,  the  beaux  of  society,  and 
the  man  of  the  world  ;  ladies  of  social  rank,  the  man- 
aging mother,  the  marriageable  daughters,  the  fluttering 
bee  of  fashion,  and  the  more  gentle  bird  of  beauty,  are 
found  amidst  the  throng,  for  Saratoga  is  cosmopolitan 
As  a  gentleman  said  to  me  one  day,  "  I  can  meet  more 
of  my  friends  in  one  hour  during  the  season  at  Saratoga 
than  I  could  at  home  in  a  week."  The  ladies  here  have 
ample  opportunities  to  display  their  peculiar  charms 
and  graces.  The  sporting  gentleman  can  also  find  an 
opportunity  to  gratify  his  peculiar  tastes  ;  the  philoso- 
pher may  study  human  nature  ;  the  invalid  find  perfect 
health  ;  in  fact  every  one  at  Saratoga  finds  that  peculiar 
pleasure  they  most  desire.  Of  all  the  elegant  hotels 
which  here  abound  we  have  not  space  to  mention.  I 
will,  therefore,  speak  of  those  that  I  know,  the  United 
States  and  the  Adelphi,  confident  they  can  please  any 
one  paying  them  a  visit. 

THE   UNITED    STATES  HOTEL,    SARA- 
TOGA SPRINGS.  \ 

That  magnificent  Saratoga  Palace,  the  United  States 
Hotel,  will  open  the  present  season  on  June  25th,  and 
entertain  many  of  the  world's  most  distinguished  people 


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173 

until  October  ist  next.  Messrs.  Tompkins,  Gage  & 
Perry,  the  proprietors,  form  a  trio  whose  reputation  as 
hotel  men  is  not  excelled  anywhere.  During  the  sea- 
son each  gives  his  personal  attention  to  a  department 
of  the  hotel,  even  to  the  minutest  detail,  and  the  result 
is,  that  their  concert  of  action  has  won  for  them  fame 
and  fortune.  Workmen  are  employed  throughout  the 
year.  Every  winter  the  plumbing,  furniture,  in  fact 
everything  in  the  interior  of  the  hotel,  is  thoroughly 
examined  by  the  corps  of  competent  men  who  repair 
and  improve  where  necessary,  and  each  spring  the 
exterior  of  the  building,  and  park,  walks,  fountains  etc., 
receive  the  same  careful  attention.  Just  now  the  out- 
side of  the  hotel  is  being  repainted.  "  Apropos  "  of 
this,  a  visitor  said  to  me  as  we  watchrtl  the  painters 
industriously  applying  the  paint,  "Why,  it  seems  almost 
a  waste  of  money  to  paint  that  hotel  this  year,  as  it 
scarcely  seems  necessary  ;  "  and  then  he  added,  "  Every- 
thing must  be  the  pink  of  neatness  and  perfection  about 
that  hotel."  He  was  right,  and  struck  the  key  note  of 
the  policy  adopted  by  those  successful  hotel  proprie- 
tors. One  of  the  most  notable  features  of  this  hotel  is 
the  service.  Even  the  hypercritical  guest  cannot  find  a 
loophole  in  this  department  through  which  to  make  a 
complaint.  Each  succeeding  season,  with  but  few 
exceptions,  occasioned,  perhaps,  by  sickness  or  death, 
the  same  competent  staff  returns  to  take  up  their  old 
duties.  I  met  Mr.  Hiram  Tompkins  and  Dr.  Perry, 
who  had  just  returned  from  New  York,  and  they  said, 
"  The  prospects  of  the  season  are  excellent.  We  have 
already  rented  over  two-thirds  of  our  cottages  for  the 
summer,  which  to  this  date  is  without  parallel  in  the 
past ;  of  all   the  departments  of  the  hotel  the  same  can 


4riiip-ri  Hiijuiiiin' 


174 

be  said.  Yes  !  Stub's  Orchestra  will  return,  and  about 
all  of  the  old  help."  But  little  if  anything  can  be  said 
here  to  add  luster  to  this  world-famed  hotel.  Make  it 
your  home  while  in  Saratoga  and  you  will  have  the 
satisfaction  and  consolation  that  no  other  hotel  can  give. 

Next  comes  the  Adelphi  Hotel — this  new,  comfort- 
able and  petite  hotel  is  located  on  Broadway,  contains 
over  one  hundred  rooms,  is  convenient  to  the  springs, 
etc.,  etc.  Its  piazza  Is  elevated  one  story  above  the 
street  and  commands  a  splendid  view  up  and  down 
Broadway,  as  well  as  Phila  street,  opposite.  The 
proprietors,  Messrs.  Hayes  and  Brushnihan,  are  too 
well  known  to  the  traveling  community  to  need  one 
word  from  me,  and  the  gentlemen  connected  with  the 
office  are  of  their  own  selection,  and  as  they  are  young, 
like  the  proprietors,  and  brimming  full  of  hotel  business, 
and  attend  to  the  every  want  of  their  guests,  you  need 
not  fear  but  you  will  be  well  cared  for  at  the  Adelphi. 
It  is  "my  home"  when  in  Saratoga;  that  is  all  I 
have  to  say  against  it.  Under  the  Adelphi  Hotel  is 
the  office  of  the  Saratoga  Kissengen  Company.  The 
Kissengen  is  "  The  King "  of  table  waters.  Drop  in 
and  examine  its  qualities  ;  I  feel  confident  you  will  be 
pleased.  It  is  the  universal  opinion  of  tourist  that  no 
watering  place  on  the  continent,  of  like  size,  can 
compare  with  the  unwearying  charms  of  Saratoga.  The 
hotel  arrivals  some  days  are  upwards  of  one  thousand. 
One  might  become  almost  tired  of  the  world  and 
vote  every  other  place  a  bore,  but  Saratoga  scenery, 
Saratoga  atmosphere  and  Saratoga  life  would  still 
charm  by  its  ever  pleasing  peculiarities. 

Mount  McGregor,  the  place  selected  above  all  others 
for  its  pure  air,  etc.,  etc.,  as  a   residence   for  our   hero. 


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175 

Gen.  U.  S.  Grant,  who  arrived  at  Saratoga  on  June  i6th, 
1885  (during  my  stay  for  health),  so  I  had  the  rleasure 
of  seeing  the  old  veteran  while  he  was  being  conveyed 
to  the  Mount  McGregor  R.  R.,  which  ascends  to  the 
top  of  the  mountain,  where  visitors  can  go  almost  every 
hour  and  get  a  view  that  will  well  repay  them.  I  left 
Saratoga  on  the  morning  of  the  19th  of  June,  and  was 
informed  by  the  conductor  of  the  Mt.  McGregor  R.  R., 
that  General  Grant  rested  well  the  previous  night  and 
slept  ten  hours.  As  all  are  aware,  our  hero  departed  this 
life  July  23d.  The  cottage,  however,  is  kept  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  day  he  left  it,  and  will  become  an 
Historic  place  for  visitors  who  come  to  Saratoga  from 
all  parts  of  the  world. 

It  is  a  fact,  and  worthy  of  note  here,  that  for  the  past 
four  years  there  has  not  been  one  day  during  the  months 
of  July  and  August,  but  they  have  had  a  heavy  frost  on 
Mount  McGregor.  I  can  vouch  for  the  truthfulness  of 
this  item  because  I  know  him.  He  is  the  conductor  of 
the  train  on  the  Mt.  McGregor  R.  R.,  weighs  280  pounds, 
and  his  name  is  Frost.  (He  was  a  broad-gauge  con- 
ductor on  a  narrow-gauge  railroad.)  Mr.  Frost  having 
accepted  the  agency  for  one  of  Saratoga's  celebrated 
springs,  there  will  not  be  a  heavy  frost  on  Mt. 
McGregor  this  year.  He  will  be  mist ;  won't  his  280 
pounds  almost  make  a  rain  ? 

Saratoga  contains  10,000  inhabitants  and  in  the 
summer  season  every  private  house  is  turned  into  a 
boarding  house  of  one  or  the  other  class,  and  therefore 
boarding  houses  abound — no  space  to  mention  all  of 
them  here. 

Next  in  order  comes  the  Springs,  Congress  and 
Hathorn. 


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176 


EXCELSIOR  SPRINGS  AND  PARK, 

some  distance  from  town,  as  well  as  others  I  shall  men- 
tion, you  can  visit  when  you  take  a  drive.  Washington 
Spring  is  on  the  grounds  of  one  of  the  hotels.  Crystal, 
Pavilion,  High  Rock,  Star,  Seltzer,  Red,  A  Spring, 
Geyser  or  spouting  spring,  Robert  Ellis,  The  Vichy, 
"  The  Champion  Spouting  Spring,"  Hamilton,  Putnam, 
Flat  Rock,  Magnetic,  Sulphur,  Iron,  Diamond,  Kissen^ 
gen  and  Patterson,  as  well  as  a  number  of  others  which 
have  been  discovered  or  may  have  been  before  this 
reaches  you.  If,  however,  you  are  not  satisfied  with 
the  springs  herein  mentioned,  all  1  ask  is  for  you  to 
visit  the  ones  mentioned,  as  I  did,  and  accept  the  cordial 
invitation  of  each  to  take  a  glass,  and  if  you  do  not  feel 
the  next  day  that  there  are  springs  enough  at  Saratoga, 
your  feelings  will  be  different  from  the  sensations  felt 
by  the  writer  of  this  article,  by  a  large  majority.  The 
drives  in  this  vicinity  are  numerous.  The  road  to  the 
cemetery  (which,  I  am  informed  by  the  oldest  inhabit- 
ant, in  order  to  start,  they  v/ere  obliged  to  borrow  a 
corpse  from  an  adjoining  county,  and  now  a  select  few 
who  wish  to  die  happy  come  and  are  decently  interred), 
has  been  improved,  so  that  the  drive  is  very  much 
enhanced  thereby.  By  far  the  prettiest  drive,  however, 
is  through  Broadway  from  Highland  Hill  for  two  rniles^ 
to  Glen  Mitchell.  The  most  fashionable  drive  is  that 
to  the  Lake.  Immense  sums  of  money  have  been 
expended  to  widen  and  beautify  this  drive,  which  is  100 
feet  wide  and  shaded  with  trees,  and  is  sprinkled  to  lay 
the  dust.  Visitors  pass  up  one  side  and  down  the  other. 
Saratoga  Lake  is  eigh  miles  long  and  two  and  one-half 
wide.     On  an  eminence  on  the  western  shore  is  Moon's 


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177 

Lake  House,  proverbial  for  its  sumptuous  game  sup- 
pers. Parties  fond  of  fishing  or  boating  can  enjoy  this 
favorite  pastime  to  their  full  extent.  Mr.  Moon  retired 
some  years  ago,  being  succeeded  by  Messrs.  Kinney 
and  Foley.  Its  fitness  for  aquatic  sports  have  been 
verified  by  the  many  events  of  that  nature  which  have 
taken  place  on  its  placid  waters  since  1871,  when  the 
Ward  Brothers  vanquished  two  English  crews  selected 
from  the  best  professional  oarsmen  of  Great  Britain 
Racing  is  the  turf  event  of  the  year,  and  cannot  be 
described  here,  only  mentioned. 

Life  at  Saratoga  is  twofold — Home  and  Hotel.  The 
former  is  enjoyed  by  its  citizens,  who  possess  some  of 
the  most  luxurious,  refined  and  elegant  houses  to  be 
found  in  the  United  States.  Hotel  or  fashionable  life 
is  ephemeral  in  its  nature,  and,  like  the  beautiful  butter- 
fly, its  duration  is  short.  In  these  few  brief  months, 
wealth,  beauty,  fashion  and  other  ingredients  not  so 
desirable,  intermingle,  and  amid  the  gay  whirl  and 
excitement  of  the  ball  room  at  night  one  is  in  a  constant 
ecstacy.  From  his  visit  to  the  springs  in  the  morning, 
promenades  or  drives  in  the  afternoon,  the  music,  lawn 
sociable  and  glittering  fireworks  at  night  one  wonders 
what  time  there  is  for  nature's  balmy,  sweet  restorer — 
sleep.  Anticipating  your  stay  at  Saratoga  to  have  come 
to  an  eixd,  you  can  depart  for  Albany  any  morning  via 
Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  Co.'s  R.  R.,  or  West  Shore 
R.  R.,  which  run  solid  trains  to  and  from  Saratoga  to 
New  York,  and  New  York  to  Saratoga,  Pullman  Buffet 
Cars.  Some  having  tickets  to  New  York  by  rail  or  boat, 
day  or  night  from  Albany  to  Troy.  The  general  offices 
of  all  railroads  or  steamboats  and  bureau  of  informa- 
tion is  in  the  Adelphi  Hotel  Building,  presided  over  by 


iimmmmm^^ 


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178 

my  genial  friend,  Mr.  C.  E.  Andrews.  I  advise  every 
one  to  take  the  Fall  River  Line  to  Boston.  If  you  have 
tickets  to  Boston  via  Albany,  all  rail,  take  the  Boston  & 
Albany  railroad,  which  is  first-class.  • 

NEW  YORK. 

To  those  visiting  New  York  for  the  first  time  a  few 
words  of  advice  may  not  come  amiss.  I  therefore 
suggest  arriving,  if  possible,  by  daylight.  Every  one 
in  the  city  minds  their  own  business — a  credit  in  some 
ways ;  but  some  people  make  it  their  business  to  fleece 
the  stranger.  I  would  therefore  say,  keep  your  own 
counsel.  If  information  be  required  ask  a  policeman. 
Upon  arrival,  take  cars  or  cab,  if  possible  to  destination. 
If  you  desire  any  of  the  hotels  represented  in  this 
work,  you  will  always  find  one  or  more  trusty  porters' 
^t  trains  or  boats.  Avoid,  if  possible,  the  hacks,  unless 
you  make  a  fair,  square  bargain  before  entering  the 
vehicle  ;  your  trunk  or  valise  may  accompany  you  with 
carriage .  You  will  always  find  upon  all  trains  or  boats, 
courteous  agents  of  the  different  baggage  and  express 
companies,  who  will  take  your  check,  giving  a  receipt 
for  the  same,  which  relieves  you  and  saves  you  much 
trouble  and  annoyance,  as  their  delivery  system  is 
prompt  and  their  charges  a  stipulated  price  ;  no 
deviation,  except  for  quantity. 

Something  should  be  said  here  regarding  the  metrop- 
olis of  the  American  Continent,  but  space  as  well  as 
time  prevents.  As  everything  seen  here  is  in  grandeur 
superior  to  elsewhere,  the  impression  made  upon  the 
mind  while  here  will  be  everlasting.  I  shall  not  try  to 
befog  the  mind  with  as  meagre  a  mention  as  I  am 
capable  of  giving,  but  simply  refer  to  the   principal 


ii* 


-^ 


■-'* 


179 


ive 
& 


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hotels.  The  first  one  at  hand  is  the  Grand  Union 
Hotel,  42nd  street,  near  the  Grand  Central  Station. 
Money-gettinp  being  the  chief  aim  of  life,  its  proper 
expenditure  should  not  prove  of  secondary  importance. 
That  travel  consumes  a  much  larger  portion  of  our 
finances  than  it  should,  is  evident  from  the  fact  that  but 
a  few  possess  the  secret  of  retrenching  in  that  direction. 
Two  important  factors  of  expense  in  travel  are  carriage 
hire  and  transfer  of  baggage  ;  and  that  the  traveling 
public  is  more  generally  becoming  disposed  to  throw 
off  their  former  burden,  is  patent  from  the  army  of 
guests  who  daily  register  at  and  fill  the  600  rooms 
(reduced  to  $1.00  and  upwards  per  day)  at  the  Grand 
Union  Hottl,  opposite  the  Grand  Central  Station,  New 
York  City.  Its  European  plan,  elegant  restaurants, 
cafe,  lunch  and  wine  rooms,  unexcelled  cuisine, 
moderate  prices,  courteous  treatment,  unchallenged 
management,  coupled  with  its  guests  incurring  no 
expense  for  carriage  hire  or  baggage  transfer,  with 
elevated  railway,  horse  cars  and  cabs  to  all  parts  of  the 
city  passing  its  doors,  render  the  Grand  Union  one  of 
the  most  desirable,  of  homes  for  travelers  in  the  city, 
and  also  established  its  success  and  world-famed 
popularity. 

PLAZA  HOTEL. 
Fifth  Avenue  entrance  Central  Park. 

While  announcing  the  completion  of  one  of  the  most 
perfect  achievements  of  hotel  art  in  modern  times,  and 
its  formal  opening  on  October  ist,  1890,  it  is  appropriate 
to  call  especial  attention  to  its  peculiar  advantages  as  a 
delightful  residence  for  families  and  a  convenient 
central  and  accessible  resort  for  the  transient  tourist  or 
business  visitor  to  the  city. 


i8o 

Situated  at  the  centre  of  city  population,  on  the  block 
between  58th  and  59th  streets,  fronting  on  Central  Park 
and  5th  Avenue  Plaza,  it  commands  charming  views  of 
both. 

The  location  is  unexceptionable,  being  accessible  by 
5th  Avenue  stages,  59th  street  cross  and  belt  lines,  pass- 
ing steamship  docks  and  all  ferries  elevated  and* 
surface  railroads  in  the  city,  within  half  a  block  of  the 
6th  Avenue  elevated  station  where  trains  are  made  up 
always  ensuring  a  seat  down  town. 

Its  proximity  to  the  park  affords  unequaled  advantage 
for  riding  and  driving  as  no  rough  pavements  intervene. 

The  building  is  absolutely  fire  proof  and  thoroughly 
lighted  and  ventilated.  Every  sanitary  regulation  and 
every  modern  improvement  in  electric  and  hydraulic  arts 
to  ensure  the  comfort,  safety  and  convenience  of  guests 
are  supplied  in  each  department  at  a  lavish  expense. 
The  culinary  and  domestic  arrangement  are  models  of 
modern  attainment. 

The  furniture  and  appointments  by  the  most  cele- 
brated makers  are  of  the  class  used  in  the  finest  private 
residences,  while  the  decorations  of  the  public  and 
private  rooms  are  not  surpassed  in  ornate  elegance  and 
artistic  taste  by  any  hotel  in  existence. 

HvGEiNA — The  Plaza  Hotel  uses  water  and  ice,  made 
from  vapor,  thus  avoiding  all  chance  of  disease  from  that 
source. 

The  evaporating  apparatus  and  ice  machine  can  be 
seen  working  on  the  premises  at  any  time. 

Superior  arrangements  are  made  for  conducting  the 
hotel  on  what  are  known  as  the  American  and  European 
plans. 

Office  staff :     Henry  W.  Riddell,  Thomas  W.  Adams, 


I 

1 


f^h- 


•\ 


i8i 


e  block 
al  Park 
lews  of 

iible  by 
es,  pass- 
ed  and- 
c  of  the 
ade  up 

(vantage 
;ervene. 
roughly 
on  and 
ulicarts 
f  guests 
ixpense. 
)dels  of 

St  cele- 
private 
lie  and 
nee  and 

e,  made 
om  that 

can   be 

ng  the 
iropean 

Adams, 


\ 


V 


formerly  of  Windsor  Hotel,  N.  Y.  Jesse  Hippie, 
formerly  of  Murray  Hill  Hotel,  N.  Y.  Ira  A.  Swan, 
formerly  of  U.  S.  Hotel,  Saratoga  Springs. 

Inspection  is  earnestly  requested  and  letters  of 
inquiry  will  receive  prompt  attention,  address  F.  A. 
Hammond,  Plaza  Hotel,  sth  Ave.  &  50th  St.,  New 
York. 

A  MAGNIFICENT  HOTEL. 

The  Murray  Hill  Hotel  is  situated  on  Park  Avenue 
in  New  York  City,  but  one  block  from  the  Grand  Central 
Station.  A  more  convenient  hotel  site  for  the  accom- 
modation of  the  newly  arrived  traveler  who  would  at 
the  earliest  moment  find  a  home,  could  not  have  been 
selected.  The  house  stands  upon  the  highest  grade  in 
New  York,  and,  of  course,  occupies  the  healthiest  of 
locations.  It  is  of  great  size,  extending  two  hundred  feet 
on  the  Avenue,  more  than  two  hundred  feet  on  Fortieth 
street,  on  the  one  side,  and  Forty-first  street  on  the 
other.  It  is  of  granite,  brown  stone  and  brick,  fire-proof. 
When  the  traveler  finds  a  hotel  in  every  way  meeting 
his  demand  for  his  comfort,  he  may  honestly  praise  it 
while  he  disparages  no  other.  For  New  York  contains 
many  costly  structures,  whose  proprietors  severally 
believe  that  their  guests  have  reason  to  be  satisfied. 
Hotels  are  not  advertised  as  second  class  by  those,  that 
manage  them.  The  man  who  is  used  to  comfort  at 
home  is  perhaps  as  good  a  judge  as  any  one  concerning 
what  constitutes    a    satisfactory    hotel.     But,    if    you 


SB 


J 


182 

come  to  New  York  in  the  summer,  I  recommend  you  to 
this  house,  for  in  all  this  city  there  can  be  no  healthier 
place  in  the  warm  season.  There  is  a  satisfaction  felt 
at  once  upon  entrance  to  this  beautiful  house.  The 
vestibule  is  apparently  just  large  enough  ;  the  hand- 
some, short  flight  of  marble  steps  that  lead  to  the  office 
seem  to  be  just  long  enough,  the  great  hall  seems  just 
high  enough  to  satisfy  fully  the  idea  that  one  has  of 
proper  architectural  proportion.  The  floor  is  of  marble, 
but  not  the  hideous  black  and  white  inset  diagonal. 
The  Sienna  is  set  against  the  slate  and  is  a  carpet  pat- 
tern. One  rather  expects  it  to  be  soft  and  yielding  to 
the  foot,  it  looks  so  like  a  Wilton.  The  office  is  roomy  ; 
not  three  or  four  only,  but  forty  people  may  range 
themselves  along  its  handsome  counter  ready  to  sign, 
in  regular  order,  the  register.  The  bookstand  is  no 
contracted  affair,  but  space  enough  is  given  to  allow 
display  of,  and  easy  access  to,  all  periodicals  and  news- 
papers. Everything  is  on  a  grand  scale,  but  altogether 
convenient.  The  great  fireplace,  which,  with  its  burn- 
ing logs,  in  winter  invites  the  guest  to  share  its  comfort, 
is  an  attraction  that  merits  and  receives  enthusiastic 
comment.  The  electric  clock,  lighted  at  night,  the 
chandeliers,  which  at  the  proper  time,  because  of  the 
light  touch  of  a  knob  somewhere,  instantly  illuminate 
halls  and  parlors,  have  their  supply  of  electricity  from 
the  great  machines  in  the  basement,  and  the  ice  that  is 
used  for  any  purpose  through  all  the  house  is  made  in 


\\ 


i83 

huge  condensers  there.  All  the  departments  seem  to 
be  at  all  times  in  the  best  working  order.  All  the 
employees  seem  ever  willing  to  do  their  best  to  please 
the  guest.  There  is  a  painstaking  to  furnish  informa- 
1^^  tion  when  it  is  ask  ;d  ;  if  one  clerk  does  not  know  he 
directs  you  to  one  who  does.  In  the  matter  of  meals, 
they  are  ready  at  all  hours.  At  the  time  of  registry, 
the  choice  is  made  between  the  American  and  European 
plan,  but  the  restaurants  above  and  below  stairs  are 
always  available.  It  would  be  easy  for  me  to  compli- 
ment the  management  and  the  efficient  office  staff,  but 
that  goes  for  the  saying.  As  space  is  limited,  I  need 
only  advise  you  to  give  the  Murray  Hill  Hotel  your 
patronage  once  ;  they  will  see  that  you  make  it  your 
home  thereafter. 


ii 


The  hotel  formerly  called  Grand  Central  Hotel, 
Broadway,  is  now  the  Broadway  Central  Hotel,  and  is 
under  the  management  of  Mr.  Tilly  Haynes,  of  the 
United  States  Hotel,  Boston,  Mass.  It  will  be  open 
this  year  on  the  first  of  July.  Under  the  new  manage- 
ment it  has  been  refitted,  redecorated  and  refurnished 
throughout. 


greet  tne  eye  ui  cm  cumv^Lcva  uii\^,  *.  iv,\,i  pu.3iv><\^  w^w^x 
calling  and  being  treated  they  would  look  upon  me  as  a 
benefactor  as  long  as  they  live  for  putting  in  my  book 
this  gratuitous  notice.  I  received  in  April  last  from 
Jtj]  him  a  very  neat  pamphlet  descriptive  of  cancers,  their 
treatment  and  cure,  which  will  be  sent  you  free,  pro- 


jjiiJaF^'  Mitt 


mm 


^■^mmrrn 


i 


182 

come  to  New  York  in  the  summer,  I  recommend  you  to 
this  house,  for  in  all  this  city  there  can  be  no  healthier 
place  in  the  warm  ason.  There  is  a  satisfaction  felt 
at  once  upon  entrance  to  this  beautiful  house.  The 
vestibule  is  apparently  just  large  enough;  the  hand- 
some, short  flight  of  marble  steps  that  lead  to  the  office 
seem  to  be  just  long  enough,  the  great  hall  seems  just 
high  enough  to  satisfy  fully  the  idea  that  one  has  of 
proper  architectural  proportion.  The  floor  is  of  marble, 
but  not  the  hideous  black  and  white  inset  diagonal. 
The  Sienna  is  set  against  the  slate  and  is  a  carpet  pat- 
tern. One  rather  expects  it  to  be  soft  and  yielding  to 
the  foot,  it  looks  so  like  a  Wilton.  The  office  is  roomy  ; 
not  tt  '     •  -""1"    but   forty  people  may  range 

thems 
in   re 
contr 
displ; 
pape 
conv 
ing  .' 

is     an     €XCtrr*.^__ (' 

comment.     The   electric  cloclc7~IignTecr  at  «.g,..., 
chandeliers,  which  at  the  proper  time,  because  of  the 
light  touch  of  a  knob  somewhere,  instantly  illuminate 
halls  and  parlors,  have  their  supply  of  electricity  from 
the  great  machines  in  the  basement,  and  the  ice  that  is ' 
used  for  any  purpose  through  all  the  house  is  made  in 


h.v 


183 

huge  condensers  there.  All  the  departments  seem  to 
be  at  all  times  in  the  best  working  order.  All  the 
employees  seem  ever  willing  to  do  their  best  to  please 
the  guest.  There  is  a  painstaking  to  furnish  informa- 
tion when  it  is  asked  ;  if  one  clerk  does  not  know  he 
directs  you  to  one  who  does.  In  the  matter  of  meals, 
they  are  ready  at  all  hours.  At  the  time  of  registry, 
the  choice  is  made  between  the  American  and  European 
plan,  but  the  restaurants  above  and  below  stairs  are 
always  available.  It  would  be  easy  for  me  to  compli- 
ment the  management  and  the  efficient  office  staff,  but 
that  goes  for  the  saying.  As  space  is  limited,  I  need 
only  advise  you  to  give  the  Murray  Hill  Hotel  your 
patronage  once  ;  they  will  see  that  you  make  it  your 
home  thereafter. 

While  in  New  York,  about  the  middle  of  June,  I 
thought  it  would  be  a  good  idea  if  some  one  of  the 
many  merchants  in  the  city  were  to  advertise  in  this  lit- 
tle volume  ;  knowing  that  it  is  not  thrown  away  but 
retained  as  a  souvenir,  it  will  be  a  perpetual  advertise- 
ment ;  I  called  on  Dr.  W.  L.  Fleming,  "  The  Cancer 
King,"  of  *'The  Ariston,"  Broadway  and  55th  St.,  New 
York  City,  who  showed  me  hundreds  of  cancers,  which 
he  removes  without  the  aid  of  a  knife.  If  this  should 
greet  the  eye  of  an  afflicted  one,  I  feel  positive  after 
calling  and  being  treated  they  would  look  upon  me  as  a 
benefactor  as  long  as  they  live  for  putting  in  my  book 
this  gratuitous  notice.  I  received  in  April  last  from 
Jj  him  a  very  neat  pamphlet  descriptive  of  cancers,  their 
treatment  and  cure,  which  will  be  sent  you  free,  pro- 


■»,'  ■  I  ■'■'iWi 


SEmC 


184 

vided  you  mention  this  book  or  its  author.  I  also  vis- 
ited three  of  the  leading  dry  goods  firms.  No.  i  stated 
that  I  was  too  late  they  did  no  summer  business.  No. 
2  said  my  price  was  too  high,  but  as  I  Spend  all  the 
money  I  procure  from  advertisers  on  the  printing  of 
books  and  get  my  money  off  the  sale,  his  point  was  not 
well  taken.  No.  3  invited  me  to  call  next  season,  which 
I  hope  to  have  the  pleasure  of  doing.  I  would  like  to 
say  here  that  I  published  this  book  and  advised  the 
advertisers  therein  to  take  the  space,  feeling  it  would 
bring  back  to  them  four-fold  what  they  paid  me.  It 
will,  therefore,  afford  me  pleasure  to  have  you  men- 
tion to  any  of  the  advertisers  that  it  was  through  my 
solicitation  and  this  work  that  you  favored  them  with 
your  patronage ;  it  will  do  you  no  harm  and  benefit  me. 

BOSTON 

is  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  American  cities,  not 
only  on  account  of  its  thrilling  traditions  and  historical 
associations,  but  for  public  enterprise  and  social  cul- 
ture, educational  and  literary  facilities.  Boston  is 
peculiarly  Boston,  and  no  one  can  describe  its  public, 
private  or  natural  beauties  in  the  space  allotted  me  here. 
The  principal  sights  are  Bunker  Hill  Monument,  Fane- 
uil  Hall,  the  Common,  Public  Garden,  Old  and  New 
State  Houses,  Public  Library,  Old  and  New  South 
Churches,  Natural  History  buildings.  Agricultural 
buildings,  Institute  of  Technology,  New  Trinity  Church, 
Mount  Auburn,  Harvard  University  buildings,  Music 
Hall,  the  Great  Organ,  City  Hall,  Hospitals  and  other 
sights  too  numerous  to  mention  here.  Trimountain,  or 
Three  Mountains,  as  Boston  was  originally  called,  is 
a  peninsula  of  about  700  acres,  almost  surrounded  by 


w 


[  also  vis- 
I  stated 
less.     No. 
d  all  the 
inting  of 
t  was  not 
on,  which 
d  like  to 
vised  the 
it  would 
me.     It 
y^ou  men- 
rough  my 
hem  with 
inefit  me. 


:ities,  not 
historical 
)cial  cul- 
>oston    is 
s  public, 
me  here, 
nt,  Fane- 
ind  New 
w  South 
•icultural 
'  Church, 
s,  Music 
nd  other 
ntain,  or 
called,  is 
inded  by 


185 

the  sea.  Its  climate  in  the  hottest  part  of  seasons  is 
deliciously  cool,  bracing  and  invigorating,  and  it  is 
undoubtedly  one  of  the  healthiest  cities  in  the  world. 
Its  harbor,  one  of  the  best  on  the  coast,  is  about  twenty 
miles  long  by  eight  wide.  Its  many  islands  and  coasts 
'  are  lined  with  thousands  of  delightful  summer  resorts, 
reached  by  numerous  railroads  and  steamboats  every 
hour  of  the  day,  forming  a  panorama  of  busy  life  and 
pleasure  to  be  seen  nowhere  else.  Its  drives  inland 
are  none  the  less  interesting  and  picturesque,  whether 
we  visit  the  classic  shades  of  old  Harvard,  the  roman- 
tic walks  at  Wellesley,  or  the  hundred  delightful 
suburban  villages,  whose  well-kept  streets,  bright 
lawns  and  elegant  gardens  simply  reflect  the  elegance 
and  taste  within  the  homes  of  those  who  have  made 
Boston  what  it  is.  The  excellent  horse-car  service  of 
Boston  is  one  of  the  best  institutions.  Nowhere  else 
in  the  country  is  this  important  convenience  to  visitors 

(t»^  so  complete  as  here.  The  broad,  handsome,  open  cars 
reach  all  points  within  ten  miles  of  the  City  Hall,  and 
give  visitors  a  most  delightful  opportunity  to  see  the 
attractions  at  the  least  possible  charge. 

Boston,  the  Capital  of  Massachusetts,  embraces 
Boston  proper.  East  Boston,  South  Boston,  Roxbury, 
West  Roxbury,  Brighton,  Charlestown  and  Dorchester. 
Boston  proper,  or  old  Boston,  was  very  uneven  in 
surface,  and  originally  presenting  three  hills.  Bacon, 
Copp's,  the  Fort,  the  former  of  which  is  about  130  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  Indian  name  of  this  peninsula  was 
Shawmut,  meaning  "  Sweet  waters."  A  narrow  strip  of 
land  called  the  '*  Neck  "  joined  the  peninsula  to  the 

^jj)     main  land  ;  this  neck  was  formerly  overflowed  by  the 
tide,  but  has  been  filled  in  and  widened,  and  is   now 


HI 


i86 

thickly  built  upon.  East  Boston  occupies  the  west 
portion  of  Noodle's  or  Maverick's  Island.  Here  is  the 
deepest  water  of  the  harbor,  and  here  the  ocean  steamers 
chiefly  lie.  The  wharf  now  used  by  the  Cunard  steam- 
ers is  1,000  feet  long.  South  Boston  extends  about  two 
miles  along  the  south  side  of  the  harbor,  an  arm  of 
which  separates  it  from  Boston  proper. 

The  first  white  inhabitant  of  Boston  was  the  Rev. 
John  Blackstone,  supposed  to  have  been  an  Episcopal 
clergyman,  and  to  have  arrived  in  1623.  Here  he  lived 
until  1630,  when  John  Winthrop  (afterward  the  first 
Governor  of  Massachusetts)  came  across  the  river  from 
Charlestown,  where  he  had  dwelt  with  some  fellow  immi- 
grants for  a  short  time.  About  1635  Mr.  Blackstone 
sold  his  claim  to  the  now  populous  peninsula  for  ;^3o, 
and  removed  to  Rhode  Island.  The  first  churcH  was 
built  in  1632  ;  the  first  wharf  in  1673.  Four  years  later 
a  postmaster  was  appointed,  and  in  1704  (April  24th), 
the  first  newspaper,  called  the  Boston  News  Letter^  was 
published.  The  "  Boston  Massacre  "  happened  March 
5,  1770,  when  three  persons  were  killed  and  five  wounded 
by  the  fire  of  the  soldiers.  In  1773  tea  was  destroyed 
in  the  harbor,  and  Boston  bore  a  conspicuous  part  in 
the  opening  scenes  of  the  Revolution.  The  city  was 
incorporated  in  1822,  with  a  population  of  45,000,  which 
had  increased  to  136,881  in  1850,  to  177,850  in  i860,  and 
250,526  in  1870.  By  the  recent  annexation  of  the 
suburbs  of  Brighton,  Charlestown,  West  Roxbury,  etc  , 
the  population  has  been  increased  to  341,919  (in  Febru- 
ary, 1876).  Population  362,876  in  1880,  and  448,447  in 
1890.  On  the  9th  of  November,' 187  2,  one  of  the  most 
terrible  conflagrations  ever  known  in  the  United  States 
swept  away  the  principal  business  portion  of   Boston. 


<V' 


^ 


■s  the  west 
Here  is  the 
an  steamers 
nard  steam- 
s  about  two 
an   arm   of 

Is   the  Rev. 

Episcopal 
re  he  lived 
d  the  first 

river  from  ^, 
llowimmi-  '^ 
^lackstone 

^or  £so, 
^lurcH  was 
Kears later 
Pril  24th), 
leUer,  was    \ 
ed  March 
i  wounded 
destroyed 
s  part  in 
city  was 
3o,  which 
i860,  and 
^  of  the 
LJry,  etc, 
n  Febru- 

♦8,447  in 
the  most     ' 
i  States    ^'' 
Boston. 


vv 


> 


187 

The  fire  broke  out  on  Saturday  evening,  and  continued 
until  noon  on  the  following  day  when  it  was  brought 
under  control,  but  again  broke  forth  in  consequence  of 
an  explosion  of  gas,  about  midnight,  and  raged  until  7 
o'clock  Monday  morning.  The  district  burned  over 
extended  from  Summer  and  Bedfordstreet  on  the  south, 
to  near  State  street  on  the  north,  and  from  Washington 
street  east  to  the  harbor.  About  800  of  the  finest 
buildings  in  the  city  were  destroyed,  causing  a  loss  of 
$80,000,000. 

OBJECTS  OF  ANTIQUARIAN  INTEREST. 

Among  "buildings  with  a  history,"  the  most  interest- 
ing in  the  United  States,  next  to  Independence  Hall  in 
Philadelphia,  is  Faneuil  Hall.  The  famous  edifice,  the 
"cradle  of  liberty,"  is  in  Dock  Square,  which  also  has 
an  historical  fame,  because  of  the  meetings  of  the 
Revolutionary  patriots  that  were  held  there.  The 
^  building  was  erected  in  1742,  by  Peter  Faneuil,  a 
Huguenot  merchant,  and  by  him  presented  to  the  town. 
Its  original  dimensions  were  100  by  40  feet.  Destroyed 
by  fire  in  1761,  it  was  rebuilt  in  1763,  and  enlarged  to 
its  present  dimensions  in  1805.  A  full  length  portrait 
of  the  founder,  together  with  the  pictures  of  Washing- 
ton, by  Stuart,  of  Webster,  by  Healy,  of  Samuel  Adams, 
by  Copely,  and  portraits  of  John  Quincy  Adams, 
Edward  Everett,  Abraham  Lincoln  and  Governor 
Andrew  adorn  the  walls.  The  basement  of  the  hall  is 
a  market.  The  old  State  House,  in  Washington  street, 
at  the  head  of  State  street,  was  erected  in  1748,  and 
,  was  for  half  a  century  the  seat  of  the  "  Great  and  Gen- 
^0  eral  Court  of  Massachusetts,"  being  the  building  of 
which  such  frequent  mention  is  made  in  revolutionary 


r7 


i  I 


188 

annals.  It  has  long  been  given  up  to  business  purposes, 
the  interior  having  been  completely  remodeled,  and  the 
edifice  surrounded  by  a  roof  which  has  wholly  destroyed 
the  quaint  effect  of  the  original  architecture.  Christ 
Church  (Episcopal),  in  Salem  street,  near  Copp's  Hill,  , 
is  the  oldest  church  in  the  city,  having  been  erected  in 
1722.  It  has  a  lofty  steeple,  and  in  the  tower  is  a  fine 
chime  of  bells.  The  Old  South  Church,  corner  of  Wash- 
ington and  Milk  street,  is  an  object  of  much  interest. 
It  is  of  brick,  and  was  built  in  1729,  on  the  site  where 
the  first  edifice  of  the  society  has  stood  from  1669.  The 
church  was  used  as  a  place  of  meeting  by  the  heroes  of  .,, 
'76,  and  during  the  .British  occupation  of  the  city  was  '^ 
used  as  a  place  for  cavalry  drill.  It  barely  escaped  the 
flames  in  the  great  fire.  The  Old  South  Society  having 
erected  a  new  place  of  worship  on  Boylston  street^  the 
old  building  was  offered  for  sale,  when  a  patriotic  effort 
amon^the  people  originated  a  subscription  for  the  pur- 
pose of  raising  funds  to  secure  its  preservation.  King's  ^'. 
Chapel  (Unitarian),  corner  Tremont  and  School  streets, 
was  founded  in  1686,  and  the  present  building,  a  plain 
granite  structure,  erected  in  1750-54.  Adjoining  the 
church  is  the  first  burying-ground  established  in  Boston. 
In  it  are  buried  Isaac  Johnson,  "  the  Father  of  Boston," 
Governor  Winthrop,  John  Cotton  and  other  distin- 
guished men.  On  the  corner  of  Washington  and  School 
streets  is  the  Old  Corner  Book  Store,  a  building  dating 
from  17 1 2.  The  Old  North  Burying-ground,  on  the 
brow  of  Copp's  Hill,  was  the  second  established  in  the 
city,  and  is  still  sacredly  preserved.  Here  lie  three 
fathers  of  the  Puritan  Church,  Drs.  Increase,  Cotton  ^i 
and  Samuel  Mather. 


i^ 


189 


purposes, 
d,  and  the 
destroyed 
5.     Christ 
>pp's  Hill, 
erected  in 
r  is  a  fine 
of  Wash- 
interest. 
ite  where 
669.  The 
heroes  of 
city  was 
aped  the 
ty  having 
treet,'  the 
5tic  effort 
■  the  pur- 
King's 
•1  streets, 
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THE  OLD  CEMETERY  IN  THE  COMMON. 

In  that  corner  of  the  Common  bounded  by  Tremont 
and  Boylston  streets,  and  lying  directly  between  the 
Masonic  Temple  and  the  Public  Library,  is  an  old 
burying-ground,  shut  off  from  the  common  and  the 
streets  by  an  iron  fence.  It  was  formerly  known  as  the 
South,  and  later  as  the  Central  Burying  ground.  It  was 
opened  in  1756,  but  the  oldest  stone  is  dated  1761.  The 
best  known  name  upon  any  of  the  ancient  stones  is  that 
of  Monsieur  Julien,  the  most  noted  restauranteur  of  the 
city  a  century  past,  and  the  inventor  of  the  famous 
soap  that  still  bears  his  name.  This  cemetery  is  the 
least  interesting  of  the  old  burying  places  of  Boston, 
and  is  consequently  seldom  noticed  by  the  stranger. 

There  are,  according  to  the  directory,  nearly  two 
hundred  hotels  in  the  city.  .  With  that  fact  in  view,  I 
shall  mention,  first  the  United  States.  In  suggesting 
to  intending  visitors  to  Boston  the  name  of  the 

"UNITED  STATES  HOTEL," 

the  proprietor  feels  satisfied  in  recommending  the  house 
for  just  what  it  is,  no  more,  no  less,  I  am  at  home 
when  in  the  United  States, Hotel ;  it  pleases  me,  and  I 
am  positive  it  will  please  you. 

The  United  States  Hotel  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  best 
of  the  well-established  hotels  of  Boston.  Its  fame  is 
wide-spread.  Its  seal  dates  back  to  1826,  and  from  that 
early  date  to  the  present  it  has  been  maintained  up  to 
the  best  standard,  but  never  better  than  now.  It  is  sit- 
uated directly  opposite  the  Boston  &  Albany,  witwin 
two  blocks  of  the  Old  Colony,  and  only  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  New  York  &  New  England,  and  Provi- 


190 

dence  Railroad  stations,  and  is  the  nearest  hotel  to  the 
retail  portion  of  the  city  and  the  great  commercial  cen- 
ters. 

The  "  United  States  "  is  occupied  largely  in  winter  by 
families  owning  their  own  private  residences  in  the 
adjoining  towns,  who  come  into  the  city  and  make  their 
residence  at  this  famous  old  house  for  the  winter 
months.  During  the  summer  season,  therefore,  their 
■great  family  rooms  are  available  for  tourists,  families 
and  pleasure  parties,  giving  accommodations  that  could 
not  otherwise  be  afforded,  and  so  allow  guests  the  most 
extensive  variety  of  rooms  at  the  lowest  possible 
charges.  During  the  summer  months  the  rates  are 
reduced  to  I2.50,  $3.00  and  $3.50  per  day,  according  to 
accommodations,  with  board ;  rooms  without  bo^rd 
$1.00  and  upwards,  thus  giving  visitors  an  opportunity 
of  making  this  hotel  their  permanent  headquarters, 
from  which  to  make  daily  excursions  to  the  thousand 
places  of  historical  interest  with  which  the  city  and 
suburbs  abound,  and  to  the  great  manufacturing  cities 
which  surround  it ;  while  the  fifteen  hundred  summer 
resorts  and  boarding  houses  down  the  harbor  and  along 
the  coast  are  available  every  fifteen  minutes  by  boat  or 
rail.  Thus  the  "  United  States  "  will  be  found  not  only 
a  most  accessible  and  convenient  hotel  on  arriving  at 
Boston,  but  will  be  found  equally  comfortable  and 
economical  for  permanent  as  well  as  transient  guests, 
while  the  facilities  for  reaching  all  the  suburban  locali- 
ties and  various  sea  shore  resorts  are  unequaled  by  any 
hotel  in  Boston. 

.  My  dear  friend,  John  B.  Schoeffel,  will,  I  am  glad  to 
know,  manage  this  year  his  summer  home,  "  Manchester 
by  the  Sea,"  the  finest  resort  on  the  coast.     If  you  have 


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time  fo'  only  a  call,  take  the  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R., 
Gloucester  branch,  oniy  35  miles  from  Boston.  It  is 
the  summer  home  of  Agnes  Booth,  John  Gilbert,  Joseph 
Proctor,  Mrs.  Bowers,  Franklin  Haven,  Pres.  Merchants 
Bank,  and  a  host  of  others.  Beautiful  harbor  and 
beach  bathing  nine  months  in  the  year,  drives  unsur- 
passed in  America ;  therefore  if  you  are  looking  for  the 
best  in  the  land,  visit  Manchester  by  the  Sea  and  be 
happy. 

One  of  the  best  traveling  companions  on  a  pleasure 
trip  is  a  reliable  Railway  Guide,  and  we  advise  the 
tourist  to  get  the  best,  as  a  cheap  guide  is  like  a  cheap 
watch — never  on  time. 

As  we  hold  that  this  little  volume  is  not  thrown  away, 
but  taken  home  for  future  reference,  a  little  advice  of 
how  to  start  upon  a  trip,  etc.,  would  not  come  amiss. 
We  say 

ist.  Select  your  route.  2d,  Buy  your  tickets  and 
secure  your  parlor  car  seats.  3d,  show  your  tickets  to 
the  baggage  master  and  have  your  baggage  checked. 
4th,  Go  to  the  news  stand  and  ask  for  The  "  Phat 
Boy's"  18  years  on  the  St.  Lawrence, or  the  Pathfinder's 
Railway  Guide  as  it  is  the  oldest  railway  guide 
published,  and  the  July  number  will  contain  the  best 
railroad  map  ever  published.  It  is  the  only  recognized 
mouthpiece  of  the  Passenger  Agents'  Association  ;  one 
can  be  assured  of  its  reliability.  The  Phat  Boy  requests 
his  friends  to  send  to  them  next  spring  for  a  copy  of 
their  summer  'ours  to  select  your  vacation  trip. 
Address,  Pathfinder,  Boston,  Mass.  5th,  Don't  bother 
the  conductor  by  questions,  as  he  has  all  he  can  do  to 
attend  to  his  train,  and  the  Pathfinder's  official  tables 
and  valuable  maps  tell  the  whole  story. 


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I  have  endeavored  to  describe  faithfully  and  correctly 
the  route  over,  which  you  have  passed,  dear  reader. 
There  are,  doubtless,  some  whose  knowledge  of 
particular  points  is  greater  than  my  own  ;  to  those  I  say 
most  cheerfully,  note  them  down,  and  forward  to  me 
2  1  Chestnut  Park,  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  and  I  assure  you 
they  shall  have  a  position  in  the  next  edition  of  this 
work,  as  my  object  and  aim  is  to  make  this  a  perfect 
guide  for  any  person  desirous  of  making  this  the  finest 
trip  on  the  continent. 

While  it  has  never  been  published,  to  my  knowledge, 
it  is  a  cold  fact  that  Grover  Cleveland  paralyzed  Dan 
Manning  with  ingratitude,  and  last  June  I  received  a 
dose  of  that  commodity  from  the  General  Passenger 
Agent  of  the  Boston  &  Lowell  R  R.  that  would  have 
paralyzed  Cleveland.  Therefore  I  say  to  my  friends, 
whenever  you  can  avoid  patronizing  that  railroad  with- 
out injury  to  the  Central  Vermont,  do  so,  and  you  will 
do  me  the  greatest  favor  of  a  lifetime.  This  spring  I 
was  obliged  to  make  my  usual  trip  and  visit  all  the 
advertising  patrons  in  my  books  and  maps.  Meeting  a 
friend  who  mentioned  having  read  of  the  unkind  treat- 
ment dealt  out  to  me  by  the  above  railroad,  suggested 
that  I  take  a  day  off  and  study  the  railroad  geography 
of  the  country  and  see  if  there  was  not  some  way 
around,  that  was  just  as  sure  to  reach  my  destination. 
A  happy  thought,  said  I,  and  I  was  not  long  in  deter- 
mining to  take  the  Fitchburg  R.  R.  via  Bellows  Falls, 
or  Windsor,  Vermont,  where  I  made  connections  and 
arrived  in  Montreal  on  time.  Therefore,  I  say  to  my 
friends  if  you  patronize  the  Fitchburg  R.  R.  between 
Montreal  &  Boston,  may  you  have  as  pleasant  a  journey 
as  the  subscriber  and  I  know  you  will  never  regret  it. 


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193 

After  returning  home  and  resuming  the  cares  and 
position  which  you  left  behind  for  this  trip,  may  you  be 
filled  with  animation,  life  and  health  acquired  by  your 
excursion  trip  down  the  St.  Lawrence,  etc.,  and  the 
pleasant  memories  of  scenes  witnessed,  wonders  visited, 
as  well  as  the  beauties  of  nature  revealed,  you  will  have 
double  the  vigor  to  prosecute  the  duties  devolving 
upon  you,  with  only  spare  time  on  hand  to  speak  to 
your  acquaintances  and  friends,  recommending  them 
to  make  the  s^me  trip,  not  forgetting  to  mention  The 
**  Phat  Boy's"  18  years  on  the  St.  Lawrence  River  as  a 
guide  for  hotel  and  all  points  of  interest  connected  with 
the  trip.  I  will  now  lift  my  hat  to  the  tourists  and  others 
who  have  made  the  trip,  and  bid  them  a  temporary 
farewell.  Hoping  to  see,  next  vacation,  yourself  and 
friends,  I  only  say  • 

ADIEU. 


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(ar'GGri  Moaritains  and  IsaRe  (^IjamlDlain. 


......•"••'•(mii>''"i'iin»"'"»<ii  ■••'■• 


TH] 


CEHTBILIEIiPIIT  BBILBOIID 

(Green  Mountain  Route), 

Offers    the    Tourist    and    Vacationist    a    greater    variety    of 
RIVER,  LAKE  and  MOU  TAIN  SCENERY, 

than  is  traversed  by   any  other   railroad 
in  New  England. 

It  is  the  Direct  as  well  as  the  Picturesque  route  to 

Lake  Champlain, '  The  Green  Hills    of  Vermont, 

The  Adirondacks,  The  White  Mountains, 

The  Sea  Coast  Resorts  and  the  Cities 

of  New  England. 


Lt:. 


^XfT  A  TV/fCPC:  ^''om    Alexandria    Ray    and  Thousand  Islands   connect    with 
Ql  £.AM  JLK^  tt,e   Central   Vermont    Railroad  at    Ogdensburg.      Also 

®    ® 


the   Falatial  Steamers  of   the   Richelieu    Navigation    Co., 
connect  with  Central  Vermont  trains  for  Montreal. 


All  Trains  Leave  Bonaventure  (G.  T.  R'y)  Station,  Montreal, 
For  Boston  New  York,  and  all  points  South 
and  East.   .    . 

Ip^'Wagner    Buffet    Parlor    and    Sleeping  Cars   latest  design    on    all 

through  Trains. 


A.  C.  STONEGRAVi:,  Canadian  Pmmrmer  A(it., 
136  St.  James  St.,  Montreal,  P.  Q. 

F.  VV.  Baldwin,  S.  W.  Cummings, 

GenH  Supt.,  OenH  Pms.  Ayent, 

iloston  Office,  260  Washington  Street,  St.  Albans,  Vt 

New  York  Office,  3.W  Broadway. 


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